L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Work faster.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Billy Ray wrote:
>
> Yep, gravity has always been there when I needed it (and sometimes when I
> wished otherwise)
>
> --
> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Work faster.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Billy Ray wrote:
>
> Yep, gravity has always been there when I needed it (and sometimes when I
> wished otherwise)
>
> --
> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.

One out of many daves

and people thought I was crazy when I said I saw Synthetic DOT 3/4 on a
WalMart shelve. lol

If you pressure bleed you may not need to move that proportioning valve.
Try it and see. ;-)
If you do have a problem then open up two bleeders, front and rear, at the
same time.
I am not sure if you have any warnings about ABS and bleeding with your 1997
Jeep.
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1



"Billy Ray" <Billy_Ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:e247d$43665242$4831b233$3139@FUSE.NET...
> Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
> detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
> the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
> instructions and be sure the cap fits.
>
> The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
> next door and then did Ed's XJ.
>
> I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
> properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
> compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.

>> Tony Elka wrote:
>>>
>>> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
>>> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
>>> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
>>> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
>>> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
>>> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
>>> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
>>> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
>>> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
>>> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
>>> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
>>> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
>>> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
>>> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
>>> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
>>> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
>>> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
>>> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Tony

One out of many daves

and people thought I was crazy when I said I saw Synthetic DOT 3/4 on a
WalMart shelve. lol

If you pressure bleed you may not need to move that proportioning valve.
Try it and see. ;-)
If you do have a problem then open up two bleeders, front and rear, at the
same time.
I am not sure if you have any warnings about ABS and bleeding with your 1997
Jeep.
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1



"Billy Ray" <Billy_Ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:e247d$43665242$4831b233$3139@FUSE.NET...
> Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
> detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
> the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
> instructions and be sure the cap fits.
>
> The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
> next door and then did Ed's XJ.
>
> I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
> properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
> compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.

>> Tony Elka wrote:
>>>
>>> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
>>> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
>>> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
>>> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
>>> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
>>> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
>>> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
>>> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
>>> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
>>> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
>>> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
>>> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
>>> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
>>> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
>>> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
>>> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
>>> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
>>> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Tony

One out of many daves

and people thought I was crazy when I said I saw Synthetic DOT 3/4 on a
WalMart shelve. lol

If you pressure bleed you may not need to move that proportioning valve.
Try it and see. ;-)
If you do have a problem then open up two bleeders, front and rear, at the
same time.
I am not sure if you have any warnings about ABS and bleeding with your 1997
Jeep.
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1



"Billy Ray" <Billy_Ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:e247d$43665242$4831b233$3139@FUSE.NET...
> Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
> detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
> the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
> instructions and be sure the cap fits.
>
> The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
> next door and then did Ed's XJ.
>
> I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
> properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
> compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.

>> Tony Elka wrote:
>>>
>>> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
>>> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
>>> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
>>> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
>>> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
>>> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
>>> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
>>> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
>>> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
>>> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
>>> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
>>> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
>>> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
>>> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
>>> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
>>> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
>>> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
>>> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Tony