Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Tony
I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Tony
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
There are two or three types of combo valve. On one you have to hold
the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
stop the pin from moving.
If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Tony Elka wrote:
>
> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Tony
the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
stop the pin from moving.
If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Tony Elka wrote:
>
> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Tony
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
There are two or three types of combo valve. On one you have to hold
the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
stop the pin from moving.
If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Tony Elka wrote:
>
> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Tony
the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
stop the pin from moving.
If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Tony Elka wrote:
>
> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Tony
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
There are two or three types of combo valve. On one you have to hold
the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
stop the pin from moving.
If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Tony Elka wrote:
>
> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Tony
the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
stop the pin from moving.
If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Tony Elka wrote:
>
> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Tony
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
instructions and be sure the cap fits.
The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
next door and then did Ed's XJ.
I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4366295E.570E3088@sympatico.ca...
> There are two or three types of combo valve. On one you have to hold
> the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
> hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
>
> If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
> while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
> stop the pin from moving.
>
> If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
> in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Tony Elka wrote:
>>
>> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
>> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
>> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
>> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
>> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
>> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
>> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
>> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
>> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
>> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
>> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
>> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
>> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
>> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
>> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
>> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
>> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
>> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Tony
detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
instructions and be sure the cap fits.
The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
next door and then did Ed's XJ.
I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4366295E.570E3088@sympatico.ca...
> There are two or three types of combo valve. On one you have to hold
> the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
> hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
>
> If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
> while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
> stop the pin from moving.
>
> If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
> in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Tony Elka wrote:
>>
>> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
>> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
>> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
>> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
>> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
>> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
>> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
>> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
>> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
>> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
>> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
>> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
>> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
>> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
>> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
>> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
>> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
>> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Tony
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
instructions and be sure the cap fits.
The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
next door and then did Ed's XJ.
I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4366295E.570E3088@sympatico.ca...
> There are two or three types of combo valve. On one you have to hold
> the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
> hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
>
> If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
> while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
> stop the pin from moving.
>
> If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
> in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Tony Elka wrote:
>>
>> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
>> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
>> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
>> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
>> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
>> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
>> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
>> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
>> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
>> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
>> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
>> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
>> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
>> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
>> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
>> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
>> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
>> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Tony
detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
instructions and be sure the cap fits.
The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
next door and then did Ed's XJ.
I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4366295E.570E3088@sympatico.ca...
> There are two or three types of combo valve. On one you have to hold
> the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
> hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
>
> If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
> while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
> stop the pin from moving.
>
> If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
> in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Tony Elka wrote:
>>
>> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
>> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
>> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
>> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
>> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
>> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
>> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
>> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
>> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
>> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
>> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
>> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
>> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
>> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
>> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
>> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
>> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
>> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Tony
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
instructions and be sure the cap fits.
The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
next door and then did Ed's XJ.
I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4366295E.570E3088@sympatico.ca...
> There are two or three types of combo valve. On one you have to hold
> the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
> hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
>
> If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
> while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
> stop the pin from moving.
>
> If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
> in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Tony Elka wrote:
>>
>> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
>> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
>> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
>> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
>> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
>> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
>> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
>> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
>> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
>> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
>> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
>> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
>> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
>> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
>> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
>> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
>> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
>> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Tony
detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
instructions and be sure the cap fits.
The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
next door and then did Ed's XJ.
I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4366295E.570E3088@sympatico.ca...
> There are two or three types of combo valve. On one you have to hold
> the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to
> hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.
>
> If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running
> while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to
> stop the pin from moving.
>
> If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin
> in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Tony Elka wrote:
>>
>> I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport.
>> I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY
>> pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use
>> it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly
>> states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake
>> metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve
>> stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of
>> the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber
>> grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or
>> detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical
>> stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be
>> held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the
>> stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex
>> nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me
>> with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order
>> to push in this metering valve. Iım afraid if I loosen the hex nut the
>> stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and
>> brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Tony
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
Hi Bill
All professionals would use the pressure system simply because the
have the tool, and it turns bleeding into a one man operation. Everyone
with AntiLock Brake System must flush their brake fluid at 120,000
miles: http://www.----------.com/WJLubeSchedule.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
> detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
> the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
> instructions and be sure the cap fits.
>
> The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
> next door and then did Ed's XJ.
>
> I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
> properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
> compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
>
> --
> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
All professionals would use the pressure system simply because the
have the tool, and it turns bleeding into a one man operation. Everyone
with AntiLock Brake System must flush their brake fluid at 120,000
miles: http://www.----------.com/WJLubeSchedule.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
> detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
> the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
> instructions and be sure the cap fits.
>
> The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
> next door and then did Ed's XJ.
>
> I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
> properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
> compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
>
> --
> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
Hi Bill
All professionals would use the pressure system simply because the
have the tool, and it turns bleeding into a one man operation. Everyone
with AntiLock Brake System must flush their brake fluid at 120,000
miles: http://www.----------.com/WJLubeSchedule.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
> detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
> the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
> instructions and be sure the cap fits.
>
> The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
> next door and then did Ed's XJ.
>
> I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
> properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
> compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
>
> --
> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
All professionals would use the pressure system simply because the
have the tool, and it turns bleeding into a one man operation. Everyone
with AntiLock Brake System must flush their brake fluid at 120,000
miles: http://www.----------.com/WJLubeSchedule.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
> detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
> the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
> instructions and be sure the cap fits.
>
> The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
> next door and then did Ed's XJ.
>
> I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
> properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
> compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
>
> --
> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee
Hi Bill
All professionals would use the pressure system simply because the
have the tool, and it turns bleeding into a one man operation. Everyone
with AntiLock Brake System must flush their brake fluid at 120,000
miles: http://www.----------.com/WJLubeSchedule.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
> detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
> the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
> instructions and be sure the cap fits.
>
> The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
> next door and then did Ed's XJ.
>
> I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
> properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
> compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
>
> --
> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
All professionals would use the pressure system simply because the
have the tool, and it turns bleeding into a one man operation. Everyone
with AntiLock Brake System must flush their brake fluid at 120,000
miles: http://www.----------.com/WJLubeSchedule.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a
> detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of
> the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's
> instructions and be sure the cap fits.
>
> The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went
> next door and then did Ed's XJ.
>
> I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior
> properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is
> compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.
>
> --
> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.