Re: ((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
 

"Earle Horton" <earle@angloburgues.usa> wrote:

> Either get a real electrician or a Time/Life diy book.

The diy book might be safer, a good friend recently retired from his
job as a building inspector, he was a journeyman electrician by trade
before becoming an inspector so he knew the electrical code very well.

He said it was almost unbelievable the number of jobs done by
experienced, licensed, electrical contractors and/or electricians that
had to be ripped out and done over because of numerous code violations
and unsafe wiring done intentionally to save a buck.

You'd think it would be cheaper to wire a building correctly than to
tear it all out and do it over but the contractors lived with the
constant hope they wouldn't get caught... :-(


--
XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html

Re: ((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
 

"Earle Horton" <earle@angloburgues.usa> wrote:

> Either get a real electrician or a Time/Life diy book.

The diy book might be safer, a good friend recently retired from his
job as a building inspector, he was a journeyman electrician by trade
before becoming an inspector so he knew the electrical code very well.

He said it was almost unbelievable the number of jobs done by
experienced, licensed, electrical contractors and/or electricians that
had to be ripped out and done over because of numerous code violations
and unsafe wiring done intentionally to save a buck.

You'd think it would be cheaper to wire a building correctly than to
tear it all out and do it over but the contractors lived with the
constant hope they wouldn't get caught... :-(


--
XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html

Re: ((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
 

"Earle Horton" <earle@angloburgues.usa> wrote:

> Either get a real electrician or a Time/Life diy book.

The diy book might be safer, a good friend recently retired from his
job as a building inspector, he was a journeyman electrician by trade
before becoming an inspector so he knew the electrical code very well.

He said it was almost unbelievable the number of jobs done by
experienced, licensed, electrical contractors and/or electricians that
had to be ripped out and done over because of numerous code violations
and unsafe wiring done intentionally to save a buck.

You'd think it would be cheaper to wire a building correctly than to
tear it all out and do it over but the contractors lived with the
constant hope they wouldn't get caught... :-(


--
XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html

Re: ((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
 

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:465d8145$0$6582$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>> I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting.
>>>
>>> I have a fiber optic lighting system in my swimming pool. It takes a
>>> 24v/250A light bulb. The bubl does not light, but the filiment is
>>> okay. The power supply (transformer) does not put out any voltage, so
>>> I bought a new one.
>>>
>>> The new transformer is stated to provide 40VA, but the light does not
>>> come on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different.
>>> What's the difference?
>>>
>>
>> Just another thought for you.
>>
>> I decided to fix the pool lights at my brother in laws cottage 'way'
>> up north and talked to a pool tech before going.
>>
>> He stated the power transformers were the weak point.
>>
>> This fiber unit used a 12 V 75W 'pot light' and a colored spinning
>> wheel but supposedly could take a 100W.
>>
>> Sure enough, I didn't even need to meter the power supply once I saw
>> the melted solder on the output transistors. A new unit was pricey
>> and I 'really' don't like replacing 'weak points' with 'new' weak points.
>>
>> So I went into the local town to the hardware store, picked up a 120V
>> 50W bulb (the biggest they had, no 75's), went across the street to a
>> Radio Shack and found a couple pigtails that fit the bulb's base
>> because no one had the proper pigtail in town and converted the sucker
>> to a 'line voltage' box.
>>
>> Basically I tossed out the 12 volt crap and just went 120V. It works
>> great and some day when I go back up if I get ambitious I will up the
>> bulb to a 75W or even the 100W the 'fixture' says it can handle.
>> There is a colored wheel to avoid melting.
>>
>
>
> I did the same thing, I bought a pack of 120v/50w bulbs and did a test
> run with them. they are not bright enough.
>

Is that as big as they make for that size I wonder?

I really like the brighter lights because they do a wicked show in a
snowstorm when sitting in the hot tub.

I think if I could get one without the diffuser lens on it all the light
would be in a spot on the fiber end. In my case I am only talking a
25-50W difference, not a couple hundred like yours...

I was almost thinking on cutting the diffuser off one just to see.

I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
voltage light was easy.

Mike

Re: ((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
 

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:465d8145$0$6582$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>> I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting.
>>>
>>> I have a fiber optic lighting system in my swimming pool. It takes a
>>> 24v/250A light bulb. The bubl does not light, but the filiment is
>>> okay. The power supply (transformer) does not put out any voltage, so
>>> I bought a new one.
>>>
>>> The new transformer is stated to provide 40VA, but the light does not
>>> come on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different.
>>> What's the difference?
>>>
>>
>> Just another thought for you.
>>
>> I decided to fix the pool lights at my brother in laws cottage 'way'
>> up north and talked to a pool tech before going.
>>
>> He stated the power transformers were the weak point.
>>
>> This fiber unit used a 12 V 75W 'pot light' and a colored spinning
>> wheel but supposedly could take a 100W.
>>
>> Sure enough, I didn't even need to meter the power supply once I saw
>> the melted solder on the output transistors. A new unit was pricey
>> and I 'really' don't like replacing 'weak points' with 'new' weak points.
>>
>> So I went into the local town to the hardware store, picked up a 120V
>> 50W bulb (the biggest they had, no 75's), went across the street to a
>> Radio Shack and found a couple pigtails that fit the bulb's base
>> because no one had the proper pigtail in town and converted the sucker
>> to a 'line voltage' box.
>>
>> Basically I tossed out the 12 volt crap and just went 120V. It works
>> great and some day when I go back up if I get ambitious I will up the
>> bulb to a 75W or even the 100W the 'fixture' says it can handle.
>> There is a colored wheel to avoid melting.
>>
>
>
> I did the same thing, I bought a pack of 120v/50w bulbs and did a test
> run with them. they are not bright enough.
>

Is that as big as they make for that size I wonder?

I really like the brighter lights because they do a wicked show in a
snowstorm when sitting in the hot tub.

I think if I could get one without the diffuser lens on it all the light
would be in a spot on the fiber end. In my case I am only talking a
25-50W difference, not a couple hundred like yours...

I was almost thinking on cutting the diffuser off one just to see.

I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
voltage light was easy.

Mike

Re: ((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
 

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:465d8145$0$6582$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>> I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting.
>>>
>>> I have a fiber optic lighting system in my swimming pool. It takes a
>>> 24v/250A light bulb. The bubl does not light, but the filiment is
>>> okay. The power supply (transformer) does not put out any voltage, so
>>> I bought a new one.
>>>
>>> The new transformer is stated to provide 40VA, but the light does not
>>> come on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different.
>>> What's the difference?
>>>
>>
>> Just another thought for you.
>>
>> I decided to fix the pool lights at my brother in laws cottage 'way'
>> up north and talked to a pool tech before going.
>>
>> He stated the power transformers were the weak point.
>>
>> This fiber unit used a 12 V 75W 'pot light' and a colored spinning
>> wheel but supposedly could take a 100W.
>>
>> Sure enough, I didn't even need to meter the power supply once I saw
>> the melted solder on the output transistors. A new unit was pricey
>> and I 'really' don't like replacing 'weak points' with 'new' weak points.
>>
>> So I went into the local town to the hardware store, picked up a 120V
>> 50W bulb (the biggest they had, no 75's), went across the street to a
>> Radio Shack and found a couple pigtails that fit the bulb's base
>> because no one had the proper pigtail in town and converted the sucker
>> to a 'line voltage' box.
>>
>> Basically I tossed out the 12 volt crap and just went 120V. It works
>> great and some day when I go back up if I get ambitious I will up the
>> bulb to a 75W or even the 100W the 'fixture' says it can handle.
>> There is a colored wheel to avoid melting.
>>
>
>
> I did the same thing, I bought a pack of 120v/50w bulbs and did a test
> run with them. they are not bright enough.
>

Is that as big as they make for that size I wonder?

I really like the brighter lights because they do a wicked show in a
snowstorm when sitting in the hot tub.

I think if I could get one without the diffuser lens on it all the light
would be in a spot on the fiber end. In my case I am only talking a
25-50W difference, not a couple hundred like yours...

I was almost thinking on cutting the diffuser off one just to see.

I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
voltage light was easy.

Mike

Re: ((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
 

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:465d8145$0$6582$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>> I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting.
>>>
>>> I have a fiber optic lighting system in my swimming pool. It takes a
>>> 24v/250A light bulb. The bubl does not light, but the filiment is
>>> okay. The power supply (transformer) does not put out any voltage, so
>>> I bought a new one.
>>>
>>> The new transformer is stated to provide 40VA, but the light does not
>>> come on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different.
>>> What's the difference?
>>>
>>
>> Just another thought for you.
>>
>> I decided to fix the pool lights at my brother in laws cottage 'way'
>> up north and talked to a pool tech before going.
>>
>> He stated the power transformers were the weak point.
>>
>> This fiber unit used a 12 V 75W 'pot light' and a colored spinning
>> wheel but supposedly could take a 100W.
>>
>> Sure enough, I didn't even need to meter the power supply once I saw
>> the melted solder on the output transistors. A new unit was pricey
>> and I 'really' don't like replacing 'weak points' with 'new' weak points.
>>
>> So I went into the local town to the hardware store, picked up a 120V
>> 50W bulb (the biggest they had, no 75's), went across the street to a
>> Radio Shack and found a couple pigtails that fit the bulb's base
>> because no one had the proper pigtail in town and converted the sucker
>> to a 'line voltage' box.
>>
>> Basically I tossed out the 12 volt crap and just went 120V. It works
>> great and some day when I go back up if I get ambitious I will up the
>> bulb to a 75W or even the 100W the 'fixture' says it can handle.
>> There is a colored wheel to avoid melting.
>>
>
>
> I did the same thing, I bought a pack of 120v/50w bulbs and did a test
> run with them. they are not bright enough.
>

Is that as big as they make for that size I wonder?

I really like the brighter lights because they do a wicked show in a
snowstorm when sitting in the hot tub.

I think if I could get one without the diffuser lens on it all the light
would be in a spot on the fiber end. In my case I am only talking a
25-50W difference, not a couple hundred like yours...

I was almost thinking on cutting the diffuser off one just to see.

I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
voltage light was easy.

Mike

Re: ((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
 

mack wrote:
> After all this back-and-forth about the problem, all I can add is that Jeff
> ought to not throw good money after bad, or incur further risk to himself by
> calling in a really good electrician (not the guy who can replace a wall
> switch) and leave it to him. We all think we know a little about
> electricity, and it's just enough to get a surprise in the form of a lethal
> or nearly lethal shock.
> I'd just as soon not read the news and find that Jeff Strickland was found
> face down with two wires in his hands. ....."let's see now, was that 250
> Amps or 250 Watts???"
> Stick to plumbing repairs. Lots of professional electricians have
> succumbed to electrical shock, but I've yet to hear of a plumber drowning.
>
>

Well as a plumber that works under pools, I have gotten pretty wet....

Then there are the houses that use the cold water pipe as the main
ground for the electrical panel for the house.

Man oh man the blue fire that happens if you happen to cut that SOB with
a 240V dryer or stove or even just the 120V stuff turned on anywhere in
the house is Wicked! Just turns the pipe cutter into instant slag.

I make 'real' sure where the electrical panel is when I cut a cold line
and half the time put a set of booster cables across where I want to cut
if in any doubt.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: ((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
 

mack wrote:
> After all this back-and-forth about the problem, all I can add is that Jeff
> ought to not throw good money after bad, or incur further risk to himself by
> calling in a really good electrician (not the guy who can replace a wall
> switch) and leave it to him. We all think we know a little about
> electricity, and it's just enough to get a surprise in the form of a lethal
> or nearly lethal shock.
> I'd just as soon not read the news and find that Jeff Strickland was found
> face down with two wires in his hands. ....."let's see now, was that 250
> Amps or 250 Watts???"
> Stick to plumbing repairs. Lots of professional electricians have
> succumbed to electrical shock, but I've yet to hear of a plumber drowning.
>
>

Well as a plumber that works under pools, I have gotten pretty wet....

Then there are the houses that use the cold water pipe as the main
ground for the electrical panel for the house.

Man oh man the blue fire that happens if you happen to cut that SOB with
a 240V dryer or stove or even just the 120V stuff turned on anywhere in
the house is Wicked! Just turns the pipe cutter into instant slag.

I make 'real' sure where the electrical panel is when I cut a cold line
and half the time put a set of booster cables across where I want to cut
if in any doubt.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: ((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
 

mack wrote:
> After all this back-and-forth about the problem, all I can add is that Jeff
> ought to not throw good money after bad, or incur further risk to himself by
> calling in a really good electrician (not the guy who can replace a wall
> switch) and leave it to him. We all think we know a little about
> electricity, and it's just enough to get a surprise in the form of a lethal
> or nearly lethal shock.
> I'd just as soon not read the news and find that Jeff Strickland was found
> face down with two wires in his hands. ....."let's see now, was that 250
> Amps or 250 Watts???"
> Stick to plumbing repairs. Lots of professional electricians have
> succumbed to electrical shock, but I've yet to hear of a plumber drowning.
>
>

Well as a plumber that works under pools, I have gotten pretty wet....

Then there are the houses that use the cold water pipe as the main
ground for the electrical panel for the house.

Man oh man the blue fire that happens if you happen to cut that SOB with
a 240V dryer or stove or even just the 120V stuff turned on anywhere in
the house is Wicked! Just turns the pipe cutter into instant slag.

I make 'real' sure where the electrical panel is when I cut a cold line
and half the time put a set of booster cables across where I want to cut
if in any doubt.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)