Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
holes than the Pure One.
weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
holes than the Pure One.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
holes than the Pure One.
weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
holes than the Pure One.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Is your engine still running?
If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
There is 'no' in-between.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NJPainter wrote:
>
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
There is 'no' in-between.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NJPainter wrote:
>
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Is your engine still running?
If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
There is 'no' in-between.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NJPainter wrote:
>
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
There is 'no' in-between.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NJPainter wrote:
>
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Is your engine still running?
If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
There is 'no' in-between.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NJPainter wrote:
>
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
There is 'no' in-between.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NJPainter wrote:
>
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Mike Romain wrote:
> Is your engine still running?
>
> If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
>
> If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
>
> There is 'no' in-between.
>
>
Engine is running, but doesn't seem to run as strong when the pressure
is at zero. What weight oil would you recommend?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Mike Romain wrote:
> Is your engine still running?
>
> If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
>
> If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
>
> There is 'no' in-between.
>
>
Engine is running, but doesn't seem to run as strong when the pressure
is at zero. What weight oil would you recommend?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Mike Romain wrote:
> Is your engine still running?
>
> If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
>
> If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
>
> There is 'no' in-between.
>
>
Engine is running, but doesn't seem to run as strong when the pressure
is at zero. What weight oil would you recommend?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160758975.026577.106840@e3g2000cwe.googlegro ups.com...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Is your engine still running?
> >
> > If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
> >
> > If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
> >
> > There is 'no' in-between.
> >
> >
>
> Engine is running, but doesn't seem to run as strong when the
> pressure is at zero. What weight oil would you recommend?
>
Higher weight oils don't lubricate as well as lower weight. Trying to
compensate for apparently low oil pressure, with a higher weight oil, may
cause problems. Another way to look at it, is that you don't really care
how much oil pressure there is at the engine gauge port, or what the gauge
is reading. What is of interest, is how much fresh oil flow is reaching
your engine bearings, and how well that lubricates them. This factor is
going to go down, if you use an oil of excessive weight for the application.
The following information is intended for the air cooled Volkswagen engine,
but it is apropos to this case too.
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=239
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=237
"Another concern is the weight of the oil. Remember, the heavier the oil,
the less it lubricates. We run 20 weight in our race engines and 10-30
weight in all street engines. Only if the temperature is constantly above
80-85 degrees would I consider 10-40 weight. 5-30 should be used when
temperature falls to below 45 degrees. For freezing temperatures straight 10
weight would be my choice."
Earle
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
news:1160758975.026577.106840@e3g2000cwe.googlegro ups.com...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Is your engine still running?
> >
> > If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
> >
> > If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
> >
> > There is 'no' in-between.
> >
> >
>
> Engine is running, but doesn't seem to run as strong when the
> pressure is at zero. What weight oil would you recommend?
>
Higher weight oils don't lubricate as well as lower weight. Trying to
compensate for apparently low oil pressure, with a higher weight oil, may
cause problems. Another way to look at it, is that you don't really care
how much oil pressure there is at the engine gauge port, or what the gauge
is reading. What is of interest, is how much fresh oil flow is reaching
your engine bearings, and how well that lubricates them. This factor is
going to go down, if you use an oil of excessive weight for the application.
The following information is intended for the air cooled Volkswagen engine,
but it is apropos to this case too.
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=239
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=237
"Another concern is the weight of the oil. Remember, the heavier the oil,
the less it lubricates. We run 20 weight in our race engines and 10-30
weight in all street engines. Only if the temperature is constantly above
80-85 degrees would I consider 10-40 weight. 5-30 should be used when
temperature falls to below 45 degrees. For freezing temperatures straight 10
weight would be my choice."
Earle
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160758975.026577.106840@e3g2000cwe.googlegro ups.com...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Is your engine still running?
> >
> > If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
> >
> > If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
> >
> > There is 'no' in-between.
> >
> >
>
> Engine is running, but doesn't seem to run as strong when the
> pressure is at zero. What weight oil would you recommend?
>
Higher weight oils don't lubricate as well as lower weight. Trying to
compensate for apparently low oil pressure, with a higher weight oil, may
cause problems. Another way to look at it, is that you don't really care
how much oil pressure there is at the engine gauge port, or what the gauge
is reading. What is of interest, is how much fresh oil flow is reaching
your engine bearings, and how well that lubricates them. This factor is
going to go down, if you use an oil of excessive weight for the application.
The following information is intended for the air cooled Volkswagen engine,
but it is apropos to this case too.
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=239
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=237
"Another concern is the weight of the oil. Remember, the heavier the oil,
the less it lubricates. We run 20 weight in our race engines and 10-30
weight in all street engines. Only if the temperature is constantly above
80-85 degrees would I consider 10-40 weight. 5-30 should be used when
temperature falls to below 45 degrees. For freezing temperatures straight 10
weight would be my choice."
Earle
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
news:1160758975.026577.106840@e3g2000cwe.googlegro ups.com...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Is your engine still running?
> >
> > If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
> >
> > If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
> >
> > There is 'no' in-between.
> >
> >
>
> Engine is running, but doesn't seem to run as strong when the
> pressure is at zero. What weight oil would you recommend?
>
Higher weight oils don't lubricate as well as lower weight. Trying to
compensate for apparently low oil pressure, with a higher weight oil, may
cause problems. Another way to look at it, is that you don't really care
how much oil pressure there is at the engine gauge port, or what the gauge
is reading. What is of interest, is how much fresh oil flow is reaching
your engine bearings, and how well that lubricates them. This factor is
going to go down, if you use an oil of excessive weight for the application.
The following information is intended for the air cooled Volkswagen engine,
but it is apropos to this case too.
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=239
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=237
"Another concern is the weight of the oil. Remember, the heavier the oil,
the less it lubricates. We run 20 weight in our race engines and 10-30
weight in all street engines. Only if the temperature is constantly above
80-85 degrees would I consider 10-40 weight. 5-30 should be used when
temperature falls to below 45 degrees. For freezing temperatures straight 10
weight would be my choice."
Earle
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
