NJPainter

nrs wrote:
> If you are sure the oil pressure is fine then it is most likely a
> problem with the gauge or sender or circuits. You did not mention
> checking the gauge itself and the wiring.
Thanks...

I guess what I'm trying to say is that there is an accurate reading at
start-up. The reading is consistent until the car really warms up. At
Start-up the pressure is higher than before, which tells me that
changing the oil pump was a good idea, and beyond that, the sensor is
getting an accurate reading. Why the oil pressure would bottom out
after warming really confuses me. After the problem was recognized it
would take 20-30 minutes for the pressure go to zero but now it
happens in a shorter time span. Whatever problem there is seems to be
getting worse with time.

The car seems to run fine, I've taken it on regular commutes and I
still don't hear any loud noises, but I do think that once it's warm
and hits zero, that I have less power and acceleration.

Would changing the valve covers/gasket and cleaning out the returns
be a remedy. I just seems to be that some sludge or crap is stuck
somewhere I really don't think it's a CPU issue, because I'd assume I'd
have a bad reading at all times.

NJPainter

nrs wrote:
> If you are sure the oil pressure is fine then it is most likely a
> problem with the gauge or sender or circuits. You did not mention
> checking the gauge itself and the wiring.
Thanks...

I guess what I'm trying to say is that there is an accurate reading at
start-up. The reading is consistent until the car really warms up. At
Start-up the pressure is higher than before, which tells me that
changing the oil pump was a good idea, and beyond that, the sensor is
getting an accurate reading. Why the oil pressure would bottom out
after warming really confuses me. After the problem was recognized it
would take 20-30 minutes for the pressure go to zero but now it
happens in a shorter time span. Whatever problem there is seems to be
getting worse with time.

The car seems to run fine, I've taken it on regular commutes and I
still don't hear any loud noises, but I do think that once it's warm
and hits zero, that I have less power and acceleration.

Would changing the valve covers/gasket and cleaning out the returns
be a remedy. I just seems to be that some sludge or crap is stuck
somewhere I really don't think it's a CPU issue, because I'd assume I'd
have a bad reading at all times.

NJPainter

nrs wrote:
> If you are sure the oil pressure is fine then it is most likely a
> problem with the gauge or sender or circuits. You did not mention
> checking the gauge itself and the wiring.
Thanks...

I guess what I'm trying to say is that there is an accurate reading at
start-up. The reading is consistent until the car really warms up. At
Start-up the pressure is higher than before, which tells me that
changing the oil pump was a good idea, and beyond that, the sensor is
getting an accurate reading. Why the oil pressure would bottom out
after warming really confuses me. After the problem was recognized it
would take 20-30 minutes for the pressure go to zero but now it
happens in a shorter time span. Whatever problem there is seems to be
getting worse with time.

The car seems to run fine, I've taken it on regular commutes and I
still don't hear any loud noises, but I do think that once it's warm
and hits zero, that I have less power and acceleration.

Would changing the valve covers/gasket and cleaning out the returns
be a remedy. I just seems to be that some sludge or crap is stuck
somewhere I really don't think it's a CPU issue, because I'd assume I'd
have a bad reading at all times.

nrs

If you restart the car when already warm, does it give a good reading
for a while? If so it would seem it is not a temperature problem but a
mechanical problem If not, then it seems it would be an electrical
problem, something getting affected by temperature.

As RoyJ suggested, a mechanical gauge would tell you if the oil
pressure is actually dropping. If it is not then it is an electrical
problem.

A can't see how changing the valve cover gasket could help.




NJPainter wrote:
> nrs wrote:
> > If you are sure the oil pressure is fine then it is most likely a
> > problem with the gauge or sender or circuits. You did not mention
> > checking the gauge itself and the wiring.
> Thanks...
>
> I guess what I'm trying to say is that there is an accurate reading at
> start-up. The reading is consistent until the car really warms up. At
> Start-up the pressure is higher than before, which tells me that
> changing the oil pump was a good idea, and beyond that, the sensor is
> getting an accurate reading. Why the oil pressure would bottom out
> after warming really confuses me. After the problem was recognized it
> would take 20-30 minutes for the pressure go to zero but now it
> happens in a shorter time span. Whatever problem there is seems to be
> getting worse with time.
>
> The car seems to run fine, I've taken it on regular commutes and I
> still don't hear any loud noises, but I do think that once it's warm
> and hits zero, that I have less power and acceleration.
>
> Would changing the valve covers/gasket and cleaning out the returns
> be a remedy. I just seems to be that some sludge or crap is stuck
> somewhere I really don't think it's a CPU issue, because I'd assume I'd
> have a bad reading at all times.

nrs

If you restart the car when already warm, does it give a good reading
for a while? If so it would seem it is not a temperature problem but a
mechanical problem If not, then it seems it would be an electrical
problem, something getting affected by temperature.

As RoyJ suggested, a mechanical gauge would tell you if the oil
pressure is actually dropping. If it is not then it is an electrical
problem.

A can't see how changing the valve cover gasket could help.




NJPainter wrote:
> nrs wrote:
> > If you are sure the oil pressure is fine then it is most likely a
> > problem with the gauge or sender or circuits. You did not mention
> > checking the gauge itself and the wiring.
> Thanks...
>
> I guess what I'm trying to say is that there is an accurate reading at
> start-up. The reading is consistent until the car really warms up. At
> Start-up the pressure is higher than before, which tells me that
> changing the oil pump was a good idea, and beyond that, the sensor is
> getting an accurate reading. Why the oil pressure would bottom out
> after warming really confuses me. After the problem was recognized it
> would take 20-30 minutes for the pressure go to zero but now it
> happens in a shorter time span. Whatever problem there is seems to be
> getting worse with time.
>
> The car seems to run fine, I've taken it on regular commutes and I
> still don't hear any loud noises, but I do think that once it's warm
> and hits zero, that I have less power and acceleration.
>
> Would changing the valve covers/gasket and cleaning out the returns
> be a remedy. I just seems to be that some sludge or crap is stuck
> somewhere I really don't think it's a CPU issue, because I'd assume I'd
> have a bad reading at all times.

nrs

If you restart the car when already warm, does it give a good reading
for a while? If so it would seem it is not a temperature problem but a
mechanical problem If not, then it seems it would be an electrical
problem, something getting affected by temperature.

As RoyJ suggested, a mechanical gauge would tell you if the oil
pressure is actually dropping. If it is not then it is an electrical
problem.

A can't see how changing the valve cover gasket could help.




NJPainter wrote:
> nrs wrote:
> > If you are sure the oil pressure is fine then it is most likely a
> > problem with the gauge or sender or circuits. You did not mention
> > checking the gauge itself and the wiring.
> Thanks...
>
> I guess what I'm trying to say is that there is an accurate reading at
> start-up. The reading is consistent until the car really warms up. At
> Start-up the pressure is higher than before, which tells me that
> changing the oil pump was a good idea, and beyond that, the sensor is
> getting an accurate reading. Why the oil pressure would bottom out
> after warming really confuses me. After the problem was recognized it
> would take 20-30 minutes for the pressure go to zero but now it
> happens in a shorter time span. Whatever problem there is seems to be
> getting worse with time.
>
> The car seems to run fine, I've taken it on regular commutes and I
> still don't hear any loud noises, but I do think that once it's warm
> and hits zero, that I have less power and acceleration.
>
> Would changing the valve covers/gasket and cleaning out the returns
> be a remedy. I just seems to be that some sludge or crap is stuck
> somewhere I really don't think it's a CPU issue, because I'd assume I'd
> have a bad reading at all times.

NJPainter

THe Valve cover and gasket is just because it needs it.

He said he was going to clean out the "Returns". I've heard of this
before.

Yes, when I restart it, after warm, the pressure goes to zero.

NJPainter

THe Valve cover and gasket is just because it needs it.

He said he was going to clean out the "Returns". I've heard of this
before.

Yes, when I restart it, after warm, the pressure goes to zero.

NJPainter

THe Valve cover and gasket is just because it needs it.

He said he was going to clean out the "Returns". I've heard of this
before.

Yes, when I restart it, after warm, the pressure goes to zero.

c

"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160601706.013881.141350@h48g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>
> THe Valve cover and gasket is just because it needs it.
>
> He said he was going to clean out the "Returns". I've heard of this
> before.
>
> Yes, when I restart it, after warm, the pressure goes to zero.
>

If the returns are plugged with sludge, then it could keep the oil from
returning to the pan and cause the low pressure reading. I have seen the
returns plug up on a few engines, but it is normally caused from severe
neglect of oil changes, coupled with lots of short trips that prevent the
engine from reaching operating temperature. I agree with the others, put a
mechanical gage on it first, and see what you get. It is possible that the
sending unit craps out when hot, or there is some other temperature related
electrical failure happening. I'm sure the gage will be cheaper than the
cleaning job from your mechanic.

Chris