RoyJ

Most of us do fine with a GOOD hydraulic floor jack, some jackstands,
and a piece of cardboard to lay on. OK, I've got a floor creeper and
find the cardboard is just as good.



NJPainter wrote:

> thanks for the advice and the inspiration...
>
> I'm a little scared about going to the dealership. I won't be able to
> negotiate price, so I hope I get a cool mechanic to work with. I hope
> it's something small, but I'll probably back on here tomorrow crying
> about how much I just spent.
>
> How do you do your own work without a lift?
>

NJPainter

Dealer said it wasn't going to be the CPU so I picked their brain and
walked out before letting them diagnose the car at $94 and hour plus
tax.

Guy behind the desk suggested wear, and quoted engine replacement
around $7K. Whatever...
Mechanic said it may be wiring but that could take hours to sort out.
Going to have the mechanic take off the valve cover and see if theirs
blockage.

Considering all the possibilities, sludge or deposits seem to be the
culprit. To recap, the engine's been flushed(basic method), sensor and
oil pump were replaced. I should note that the oil pump was dinged up,
the metal plate was scored and the moving parts had some dings and
whatnot.

Is this just a simple case of engine wear? If it is, should I use
two quarts Lucas per oil change instead of one, or just switch to a
20-50? Everyone I spoke to says that engine replacement would be the
smartest option, versus having someone open it up and work on specific
parts. The engine has 164K on it. The previous owner did regular oil
changes w/ synthetic, and I've followed suit...

NJPainter

Dealer said it wasn't going to be the CPU so I picked their brain and
walked out before letting them diagnose the car at $94 and hour plus
tax.

Guy behind the desk suggested wear, and quoted engine replacement
around $7K. Whatever...
Mechanic said it may be wiring but that could take hours to sort out.
Going to have the mechanic take off the valve cover and see if theirs
blockage.

Considering all the possibilities, sludge or deposits seem to be the
culprit. To recap, the engine's been flushed(basic method), sensor and
oil pump were replaced. I should note that the oil pump was dinged up,
the metal plate was scored and the moving parts had some dings and
whatnot.

Is this just a simple case of engine wear? If it is, should I use
two quarts Lucas per oil change instead of one, or just switch to a
20-50? Everyone I spoke to says that engine replacement would be the
smartest option, versus having someone open it up and work on specific
parts. The engine has 164K on it. The previous owner did regular oil
changes w/ synthetic, and I've followed suit...

NJPainter

Dealer said it wasn't going to be the CPU so I picked their brain and
walked out before letting them diagnose the car at $94 and hour plus
tax.

Guy behind the desk suggested wear, and quoted engine replacement
around $7K. Whatever...
Mechanic said it may be wiring but that could take hours to sort out.
Going to have the mechanic take off the valve cover and see if theirs
blockage.

Considering all the possibilities, sludge or deposits seem to be the
culprit. To recap, the engine's been flushed(basic method), sensor and
oil pump were replaced. I should note that the oil pump was dinged up,
the metal plate was scored and the moving parts had some dings and
whatnot.

Is this just a simple case of engine wear? If it is, should I use
two quarts Lucas per oil change instead of one, or just switch to a
20-50? Everyone I spoke to says that engine replacement would be the
smartest option, versus having someone open it up and work on specific
parts. The engine has 164K on it. The previous owner did regular oil
changes w/ synthetic, and I've followed suit...

NJPainter

Herb Leong wrote:

>
> #It is also 'super' easy to clear the CPU codes... Just disconnect the
> #battery for a few minutes.... There are also auto store places that
> #will check the codes for free.
> Checking them should just be a matter of turn the ignition on, off, on,
> off, on without cranking...
>
> /herb

thx-

My mechanic sent me to the dealer to have the CPU flashed? He said
that only the dealers can reprogram the cars. The dealer told me that
the CPU has nothing to do with it. They said it could be wiring, wear
or possibly blockage.

I was leery of having the dealership do work, or even the diagnostic
this morning because the cost seemed out of hand. I'm leaning towards
having my mechanic clean out the returns since I read in another thread
that that worked for another guy with the same problem...

thx

NJPainter

Herb Leong wrote:

>
> #It is also 'super' easy to clear the CPU codes... Just disconnect the
> #battery for a few minutes.... There are also auto store places that
> #will check the codes for free.
> Checking them should just be a matter of turn the ignition on, off, on,
> off, on without cranking...
>
> /herb

thx-

My mechanic sent me to the dealer to have the CPU flashed? He said
that only the dealers can reprogram the cars. The dealer told me that
the CPU has nothing to do with it. They said it could be wiring, wear
or possibly blockage.

I was leery of having the dealership do work, or even the diagnostic
this morning because the cost seemed out of hand. I'm leaning towards
having my mechanic clean out the returns since I read in another thread
that that worked for another guy with the same problem...

thx

NJPainter

Herb Leong wrote:

>
> #It is also 'super' easy to clear the CPU codes... Just disconnect the
> #battery for a few minutes.... There are also auto store places that
> #will check the codes for free.
> Checking them should just be a matter of turn the ignition on, off, on,
> off, on without cranking...
>
> /herb

thx-

My mechanic sent me to the dealer to have the CPU flashed? He said
that only the dealers can reprogram the cars. The dealer told me that
the CPU has nothing to do with it. They said it could be wiring, wear
or possibly blockage.

I was leery of having the dealership do work, or even the diagnostic
this morning because the cost seemed out of hand. I'm leaning towards
having my mechanic clean out the returns since I read in another thread
that that worked for another guy with the same problem...

thx

NJPainter

my mechanic said he'd run it for me, but he said the engine would've
f-d up already if there wasn't any pressure.

NJPainter

my mechanic said he'd run it for me, but he said the engine would've
f-d up already if there wasn't any pressure.

NJPainter

my mechanic said he'd run it for me, but he said the engine would've
f-d up already if there wasn't any pressure.