Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
You can rent, often for free, a mechanical oil pressure gauge from many
auto-parts stores. It is simple to attach, you remove the oil pressure
sender with a wrench and screw in the mechanical gauge and you read the
actual pressure directly.
From your post I think that this oil change was delayed to 4000 miles. This
is more than the 3k interval that will give you maximum engine life but less
than the warranty requirement.
Upon getting an zero pressure reading off a dashboard gauge you mechanic's
first step should have been checking the actual pressure with a mechanical
gauge.
This is not a 'Jeep thing' this would hold true of any engine that uses
electrical senders (most if not all).
We all started somewhere, if the mechanical gauge shows proper pressure then
the sender or wiring is at fault. This would not be the first or last
sender that was defective new from the box.
If, in fact, your pressure falls off then you have valuable information to
give your new mechanic.
Most vehicle maintenance can be done without a lift. Sometimes you need a
set of ramps or jack stands but they can be obtained at any auto parts store
as well as K-Mart, Wall-Mart, Sears, etc.
A basic tool set is not expensive and any tool you buy will be paid for the
first time you use it. Do not buy poor quality or made in Red China tools.
Specialty tools, such as this mechanical oil pressure gauge, can be rented
at many auto-parts stores... just ask. The worse thing they could do for
asking is castrate or kill you.... they won't harm your Jeep or anything
serious.
A good reference manual is always helpful when you start... The best manual
is the Factory Service Manual specific to your make and model. They can
often be obtained second hand on eBay in both paper and CD format.
http://tinyurl.com/y8jujj
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160706160.190670.84020@i42g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
>
> thanks for the advice and the inspiration...
>
> I'm a little scared about going to the dealership. I won't be able to
> negotiate price, so I hope I get a cool mechanic to work with. I hope
> it's something small, but I'll probably back on here tomorrow crying
> about how much I just spent.
>
> How do you do your own work without a lift?
>
auto-parts stores. It is simple to attach, you remove the oil pressure
sender with a wrench and screw in the mechanical gauge and you read the
actual pressure directly.
From your post I think that this oil change was delayed to 4000 miles. This
is more than the 3k interval that will give you maximum engine life but less
than the warranty requirement.
Upon getting an zero pressure reading off a dashboard gauge you mechanic's
first step should have been checking the actual pressure with a mechanical
gauge.
This is not a 'Jeep thing' this would hold true of any engine that uses
electrical senders (most if not all).
We all started somewhere, if the mechanical gauge shows proper pressure then
the sender or wiring is at fault. This would not be the first or last
sender that was defective new from the box.
If, in fact, your pressure falls off then you have valuable information to
give your new mechanic.
Most vehicle maintenance can be done without a lift. Sometimes you need a
set of ramps or jack stands but they can be obtained at any auto parts store
as well as K-Mart, Wall-Mart, Sears, etc.
A basic tool set is not expensive and any tool you buy will be paid for the
first time you use it. Do not buy poor quality or made in Red China tools.
Specialty tools, such as this mechanical oil pressure gauge, can be rented
at many auto-parts stores... just ask. The worse thing they could do for
asking is castrate or kill you.... they won't harm your Jeep or anything
serious.
A good reference manual is always helpful when you start... The best manual
is the Factory Service Manual specific to your make and model. They can
often be obtained second hand on eBay in both paper and CD format.
http://tinyurl.com/y8jujj
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160706160.190670.84020@i42g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
>
> thanks for the advice and the inspiration...
>
> I'm a little scared about going to the dealership. I won't be able to
> negotiate price, so I hope I get a cool mechanic to work with. I hope
> it's something small, but I'll probably back on here tomorrow crying
> about how much I just spent.
>
> How do you do your own work without a lift?
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
You can rent, often for free, a mechanical oil pressure gauge from many
auto-parts stores. It is simple to attach, you remove the oil pressure
sender with a wrench and screw in the mechanical gauge and you read the
actual pressure directly.
From your post I think that this oil change was delayed to 4000 miles. This
is more than the 3k interval that will give you maximum engine life but less
than the warranty requirement.
Upon getting an zero pressure reading off a dashboard gauge you mechanic's
first step should have been checking the actual pressure with a mechanical
gauge.
This is not a 'Jeep thing' this would hold true of any engine that uses
electrical senders (most if not all).
We all started somewhere, if the mechanical gauge shows proper pressure then
the sender or wiring is at fault. This would not be the first or last
sender that was defective new from the box.
If, in fact, your pressure falls off then you have valuable information to
give your new mechanic.
Most vehicle maintenance can be done without a lift. Sometimes you need a
set of ramps or jack stands but they can be obtained at any auto parts store
as well as K-Mart, Wall-Mart, Sears, etc.
A basic tool set is not expensive and any tool you buy will be paid for the
first time you use it. Do not buy poor quality or made in Red China tools.
Specialty tools, such as this mechanical oil pressure gauge, can be rented
at many auto-parts stores... just ask. The worse thing they could do for
asking is castrate or kill you.... they won't harm your Jeep or anything
serious.
A good reference manual is always helpful when you start... The best manual
is the Factory Service Manual specific to your make and model. They can
often be obtained second hand on eBay in both paper and CD format.
http://tinyurl.com/y8jujj
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160706160.190670.84020@i42g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
>
> thanks for the advice and the inspiration...
>
> I'm a little scared about going to the dealership. I won't be able to
> negotiate price, so I hope I get a cool mechanic to work with. I hope
> it's something small, but I'll probably back on here tomorrow crying
> about how much I just spent.
>
> How do you do your own work without a lift?
>
auto-parts stores. It is simple to attach, you remove the oil pressure
sender with a wrench and screw in the mechanical gauge and you read the
actual pressure directly.
From your post I think that this oil change was delayed to 4000 miles. This
is more than the 3k interval that will give you maximum engine life but less
than the warranty requirement.
Upon getting an zero pressure reading off a dashboard gauge you mechanic's
first step should have been checking the actual pressure with a mechanical
gauge.
This is not a 'Jeep thing' this would hold true of any engine that uses
electrical senders (most if not all).
We all started somewhere, if the mechanical gauge shows proper pressure then
the sender or wiring is at fault. This would not be the first or last
sender that was defective new from the box.
If, in fact, your pressure falls off then you have valuable information to
give your new mechanic.
Most vehicle maintenance can be done without a lift. Sometimes you need a
set of ramps or jack stands but they can be obtained at any auto parts store
as well as K-Mart, Wall-Mart, Sears, etc.
A basic tool set is not expensive and any tool you buy will be paid for the
first time you use it. Do not buy poor quality or made in Red China tools.
Specialty tools, such as this mechanical oil pressure gauge, can be rented
at many auto-parts stores... just ask. The worse thing they could do for
asking is castrate or kill you.... they won't harm your Jeep or anything
serious.
A good reference manual is always helpful when you start... The best manual
is the Factory Service Manual specific to your make and model. They can
often be obtained second hand on eBay in both paper and CD format.
http://tinyurl.com/y8jujj
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160706160.190670.84020@i42g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
>
> thanks for the advice and the inspiration...
>
> I'm a little scared about going to the dealership. I won't be able to
> negotiate price, so I hope I get a cool mechanic to work with. I hope
> it's something small, but I'll probably back on here tomorrow crying
> about how much I just spent.
>
> How do you do your own work without a lift?
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
4000 miles isn't really that long, and it's not NEARLY enough to cause
the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
not one 4,000 interval.
Jeff DeWitt
NJPainter wrote:
> First off,THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HAS REPLIED!... I regret not
> stopping here first, everyone's been helpful.
>
>
> Problem is, I have no idea to do any of these things. My mechanic is
> probably being lazy- so I guess the Jeep dealer will find the problem
> tomorrow morning... it stinks...
>
> My mechanic is down the street from me so it's really convenient. He's
> usually fair with his price, and has done the exhaust manifold for me
> and cat-back exhaust. At this point I'm annoyed that he didn't figure
> out the problem but what am I gonna do? I don't have the tools to do
> any of this.
>
> The reason why I think it's a physical thing is because I let the oil
> go too long. That's why I think cleaning the returns would work. If
> that's the case the mechanic won't charge me much, he know he didn't do
> his due diligence. He just put the new sensor on and thought that it
> would be fixed.
>
> Anyone have any tips on dealing with a dealership mechanic? I don't
> want to get a $200 bill for diagnostics and then have them tell me it's
> another amount of money to fix the problem...
>
the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
not one 4,000 interval.
Jeff DeWitt
NJPainter wrote:
> First off,THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HAS REPLIED!... I regret not
> stopping here first, everyone's been helpful.
>
>
> Problem is, I have no idea to do any of these things. My mechanic is
> probably being lazy- so I guess the Jeep dealer will find the problem
> tomorrow morning... it stinks...
>
> My mechanic is down the street from me so it's really convenient. He's
> usually fair with his price, and has done the exhaust manifold for me
> and cat-back exhaust. At this point I'm annoyed that he didn't figure
> out the problem but what am I gonna do? I don't have the tools to do
> any of this.
>
> The reason why I think it's a physical thing is because I let the oil
> go too long. That's why I think cleaning the returns would work. If
> that's the case the mechanic won't charge me much, he know he didn't do
> his due diligence. He just put the new sensor on and thought that it
> would be fixed.
>
> Anyone have any tips on dealing with a dealership mechanic? I don't
> want to get a $200 bill for diagnostics and then have them tell me it's
> another amount of money to fix the problem...
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
4000 miles isn't really that long, and it's not NEARLY enough to cause
the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
not one 4,000 interval.
Jeff DeWitt
NJPainter wrote:
> First off,THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HAS REPLIED!... I regret not
> stopping here first, everyone's been helpful.
>
>
> Problem is, I have no idea to do any of these things. My mechanic is
> probably being lazy- so I guess the Jeep dealer will find the problem
> tomorrow morning... it stinks...
>
> My mechanic is down the street from me so it's really convenient. He's
> usually fair with his price, and has done the exhaust manifold for me
> and cat-back exhaust. At this point I'm annoyed that he didn't figure
> out the problem but what am I gonna do? I don't have the tools to do
> any of this.
>
> The reason why I think it's a physical thing is because I let the oil
> go too long. That's why I think cleaning the returns would work. If
> that's the case the mechanic won't charge me much, he know he didn't do
> his due diligence. He just put the new sensor on and thought that it
> would be fixed.
>
> Anyone have any tips on dealing with a dealership mechanic? I don't
> want to get a $200 bill for diagnostics and then have them tell me it's
> another amount of money to fix the problem...
>
the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
not one 4,000 interval.
Jeff DeWitt
NJPainter wrote:
> First off,THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HAS REPLIED!... I regret not
> stopping here first, everyone's been helpful.
>
>
> Problem is, I have no idea to do any of these things. My mechanic is
> probably being lazy- so I guess the Jeep dealer will find the problem
> tomorrow morning... it stinks...
>
> My mechanic is down the street from me so it's really convenient. He's
> usually fair with his price, and has done the exhaust manifold for me
> and cat-back exhaust. At this point I'm annoyed that he didn't figure
> out the problem but what am I gonna do? I don't have the tools to do
> any of this.
>
> The reason why I think it's a physical thing is because I let the oil
> go too long. That's why I think cleaning the returns would work. If
> that's the case the mechanic won't charge me much, he know he didn't do
> his due diligence. He just put the new sensor on and thought that it
> would be fixed.
>
> Anyone have any tips on dealing with a dealership mechanic? I don't
> want to get a $200 bill for diagnostics and then have them tell me it's
> another amount of money to fix the problem...
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
4000 miles isn't really that long, and it's not NEARLY enough to cause
the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
not one 4,000 interval.
Jeff DeWitt
NJPainter wrote:
> First off,THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HAS REPLIED!... I regret not
> stopping here first, everyone's been helpful.
>
>
> Problem is, I have no idea to do any of these things. My mechanic is
> probably being lazy- so I guess the Jeep dealer will find the problem
> tomorrow morning... it stinks...
>
> My mechanic is down the street from me so it's really convenient. He's
> usually fair with his price, and has done the exhaust manifold for me
> and cat-back exhaust. At this point I'm annoyed that he didn't figure
> out the problem but what am I gonna do? I don't have the tools to do
> any of this.
>
> The reason why I think it's a physical thing is because I let the oil
> go too long. That's why I think cleaning the returns would work. If
> that's the case the mechanic won't charge me much, he know he didn't do
> his due diligence. He just put the new sensor on and thought that it
> would be fixed.
>
> Anyone have any tips on dealing with a dealership mechanic? I don't
> want to get a $200 bill for diagnostics and then have them tell me it's
> another amount of money to fix the problem...
>
the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
not one 4,000 interval.
Jeff DeWitt
NJPainter wrote:
> First off,THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HAS REPLIED!... I regret not
> stopping here first, everyone's been helpful.
>
>
> Problem is, I have no idea to do any of these things. My mechanic is
> probably being lazy- so I guess the Jeep dealer will find the problem
> tomorrow morning... it stinks...
>
> My mechanic is down the street from me so it's really convenient. He's
> usually fair with his price, and has done the exhaust manifold for me
> and cat-back exhaust. At this point I'm annoyed that he didn't figure
> out the problem but what am I gonna do? I don't have the tools to do
> any of this.
>
> The reason why I think it's a physical thing is because I let the oil
> go too long. That's why I think cleaning the returns would work. If
> that's the case the mechanic won't charge me much, he know he didn't do
> his due diligence. He just put the new sensor on and thought that it
> would be fixed.
>
> Anyone have any tips on dealing with a dealership mechanic? I don't
> want to get a $200 bill for diagnostics and then have them tell me it's
> another amount of money to fix the problem...
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
In article <452E428B.4CFB26F@sympatico.ca>,
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
#It is more than obviously an electrical fault seeing as the engine keeps
#on running with the supposedly zero oil pressure. When the oil pressure
#'really' drops to zero, the engine will start making bad valve noises
#within seconds or minutes at the most.
I agree with Mike on this. When my '99 WJ had a like issue, I took it
back to the dealership multiple times under warrenty, but as luck would
have it, it always "fixed" itself when in the shop. The dealer finaly
was able to catch it zero'ed out and traced the fault to a bad electrical
line. Had to run a bypass wire.
#It is also 'super' easy to clear the CPU codes... Just disconnect the
#battery for a few minutes.... There are also auto store places that
#will check the codes for free.
Checking them should just be a matter of turn the ignition on, off, on,
off, on without cranking...
/herb
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
#It is more than obviously an electrical fault seeing as the engine keeps
#on running with the supposedly zero oil pressure. When the oil pressure
#'really' drops to zero, the engine will start making bad valve noises
#within seconds or minutes at the most.
I agree with Mike on this. When my '99 WJ had a like issue, I took it
back to the dealership multiple times under warrenty, but as luck would
have it, it always "fixed" itself when in the shop. The dealer finaly
was able to catch it zero'ed out and traced the fault to a bad electrical
line. Had to run a bypass wire.
#It is also 'super' easy to clear the CPU codes... Just disconnect the
#battery for a few minutes.... There are also auto store places that
#will check the codes for free.
Checking them should just be a matter of turn the ignition on, off, on,
off, on without cranking...
/herb
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
In article <452E428B.4CFB26F@sympatico.ca>,
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
#It is more than obviously an electrical fault seeing as the engine keeps
#on running with the supposedly zero oil pressure. When the oil pressure
#'really' drops to zero, the engine will start making bad valve noises
#within seconds or minutes at the most.
I agree with Mike on this. When my '99 WJ had a like issue, I took it
back to the dealership multiple times under warrenty, but as luck would
have it, it always "fixed" itself when in the shop. The dealer finaly
was able to catch it zero'ed out and traced the fault to a bad electrical
line. Had to run a bypass wire.
#It is also 'super' easy to clear the CPU codes... Just disconnect the
#battery for a few minutes.... There are also auto store places that
#will check the codes for free.
Checking them should just be a matter of turn the ignition on, off, on,
off, on without cranking...
/herb
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
#It is more than obviously an electrical fault seeing as the engine keeps
#on running with the supposedly zero oil pressure. When the oil pressure
#'really' drops to zero, the engine will start making bad valve noises
#within seconds or minutes at the most.
I agree with Mike on this. When my '99 WJ had a like issue, I took it
back to the dealership multiple times under warrenty, but as luck would
have it, it always "fixed" itself when in the shop. The dealer finaly
was able to catch it zero'ed out and traced the fault to a bad electrical
line. Had to run a bypass wire.
#It is also 'super' easy to clear the CPU codes... Just disconnect the
#battery for a few minutes.... There are also auto store places that
#will check the codes for free.
Checking them should just be a matter of turn the ignition on, off, on,
off, on without cranking...
/herb
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
In article <452E428B.4CFB26F@sympatico.ca>,
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
#It is more than obviously an electrical fault seeing as the engine keeps
#on running with the supposedly zero oil pressure. When the oil pressure
#'really' drops to zero, the engine will start making bad valve noises
#within seconds or minutes at the most.
I agree with Mike on this. When my '99 WJ had a like issue, I took it
back to the dealership multiple times under warrenty, but as luck would
have it, it always "fixed" itself when in the shop. The dealer finaly
was able to catch it zero'ed out and traced the fault to a bad electrical
line. Had to run a bypass wire.
#It is also 'super' easy to clear the CPU codes... Just disconnect the
#battery for a few minutes.... There are also auto store places that
#will check the codes for free.
Checking them should just be a matter of turn the ignition on, off, on,
off, on without cranking...
/herb
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
#It is more than obviously an electrical fault seeing as the engine keeps
#on running with the supposedly zero oil pressure. When the oil pressure
#'really' drops to zero, the engine will start making bad valve noises
#within seconds or minutes at the most.
I agree with Mike on this. When my '99 WJ had a like issue, I took it
back to the dealership multiple times under warrenty, but as luck would
have it, it always "fixed" itself when in the shop. The dealer finaly
was able to catch it zero'ed out and traced the fault to a bad electrical
line. Had to run a bypass wire.
#It is also 'super' easy to clear the CPU codes... Just disconnect the
#battery for a few minutes.... There are also auto store places that
#will check the codes for free.
Checking them should just be a matter of turn the ignition on, off, on,
off, on without cranking...
/herb
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Most of us do fine with a GOOD hydraulic floor jack, some jackstands,
and a piece of cardboard to lay on. OK, I've got a floor creeper and
find the cardboard is just as good.
NJPainter wrote:
> thanks for the advice and the inspiration...
>
> I'm a little scared about going to the dealership. I won't be able to
> negotiate price, so I hope I get a cool mechanic to work with. I hope
> it's something small, but I'll probably back on here tomorrow crying
> about how much I just spent.
>
> How do you do your own work without a lift?
>
and a piece of cardboard to lay on. OK, I've got a floor creeper and
find the cardboard is just as good.
NJPainter wrote:
> thanks for the advice and the inspiration...
>
> I'm a little scared about going to the dealership. I won't be able to
> negotiate price, so I hope I get a cool mechanic to work with. I hope
> it's something small, but I'll probably back on here tomorrow crying
> about how much I just spent.
>
> How do you do your own work without a lift?
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Most of us do fine with a GOOD hydraulic floor jack, some jackstands,
and a piece of cardboard to lay on. OK, I've got a floor creeper and
find the cardboard is just as good.
NJPainter wrote:
> thanks for the advice and the inspiration...
>
> I'm a little scared about going to the dealership. I won't be able to
> negotiate price, so I hope I get a cool mechanic to work with. I hope
> it's something small, but I'll probably back on here tomorrow crying
> about how much I just spent.
>
> How do you do your own work without a lift?
>
and a piece of cardboard to lay on. OK, I've got a floor creeper and
find the cardboard is just as good.
NJPainter wrote:
> thanks for the advice and the inspiration...
>
> I'm a little scared about going to the dealership. I won't be able to
> negotiate price, so I hope I get a cool mechanic to work with. I hope
> it's something small, but I'll probably back on here tomorrow crying
> about how much I just spent.
>
> How do you do your own work without a lift?
>
