Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
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Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160758975.026577.106840@e3g2000cwe.googlegro ups.com...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Is your engine still running?
> >
> > If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
> >
> > If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
> >
> > There is 'no' in-between.
> >
> >
>
> Engine is running, but doesn't seem to run as strong when the
> pressure is at zero. What weight oil would you recommend?
>
Higher weight oils don't lubricate as well as lower weight. Trying to
compensate for apparently low oil pressure, with a higher weight oil, may
cause problems. Another way to look at it, is that you don't really care
how much oil pressure there is at the engine gauge port, or what the gauge
is reading. What is of interest, is how much fresh oil flow is reaching
your engine bearings, and how well that lubricates them. This factor is
going to go down, if you use an oil of excessive weight for the application.
The following information is intended for the air cooled Volkswagen engine,
but it is apropos to this case too.
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=239
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=237
"Another concern is the weight of the oil. Remember, the heavier the oil,
the less it lubricates. We run 20 weight in our race engines and 10-30
weight in all street engines. Only if the temperature is constantly above
80-85 degrees would I consider 10-40 weight. 5-30 should be used when
temperature falls to below 45 degrees. For freezing temperatures straight 10
weight would be my choice."
Earle
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
news:1160758975.026577.106840@e3g2000cwe.googlegro ups.com...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Is your engine still running?
> >
> > If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
> >
> > If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
> >
> > There is 'no' in-between.
> >
> >
>
> Engine is running, but doesn't seem to run as strong when the
> pressure is at zero. What weight oil would you recommend?
>
Higher weight oils don't lubricate as well as lower weight. Trying to
compensate for apparently low oil pressure, with a higher weight oil, may
cause problems. Another way to look at it, is that you don't really care
how much oil pressure there is at the engine gauge port, or what the gauge
is reading. What is of interest, is how much fresh oil flow is reaching
your engine bearings, and how well that lubricates them. This factor is
going to go down, if you use an oil of excessive weight for the application.
The following information is intended for the air cooled Volkswagen engine,
but it is apropos to this case too.
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=239
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=237
"Another concern is the weight of the oil. Remember, the heavier the oil,
the less it lubricates. We run 20 weight in our race engines and 10-30
weight in all street engines. Only if the temperature is constantly above
80-85 degrees would I consider 10-40 weight. 5-30 should be used when
temperature falls to below 45 degrees. For freezing temperatures straight 10
weight would be my choice."
Earle
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Guest
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Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Mike Romain wrote:
> Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put it
> in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
> blind?
>
> None of the -------- 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.
Mike is right. Without hooking a mechanical pressure guage directly to
the block, an accurate diagnosis cannot be made.
Fire this mechanic. Find another who will perform an accurate diagnosis
before you open your wallet.
> Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put it
> in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
> blind?
>
> None of the -------- 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.
Mike is right. Without hooking a mechanical pressure guage directly to
the block, an accurate diagnosis cannot be made.
Fire this mechanic. Find another who will perform an accurate diagnosis
before you open your wallet.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Mike Romain wrote:
> Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put it
> in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
> blind?
>
> None of the -------- 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.
Mike is right. Without hooking a mechanical pressure guage directly to
the block, an accurate diagnosis cannot be made.
Fire this mechanic. Find another who will perform an accurate diagnosis
before you open your wallet.
> Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put it
> in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
> blind?
>
> None of the -------- 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.
Mike is right. Without hooking a mechanical pressure guage directly to
the block, an accurate diagnosis cannot be made.
Fire this mechanic. Find another who will perform an accurate diagnosis
before you open your wallet.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Mike Romain wrote:
> Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put it
> in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
> blind?
>
> None of the -------- 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.
Mike is right. Without hooking a mechanical pressure guage directly to
the block, an accurate diagnosis cannot be made.
Fire this mechanic. Find another who will perform an accurate diagnosis
before you open your wallet.
> Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put it
> in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
> blind?
>
> None of the -------- 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.
Mike is right. Without hooking a mechanical pressure guage directly to
the block, an accurate diagnosis cannot be made.
Fire this mechanic. Find another who will perform an accurate diagnosis
before you open your wallet.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
NJPainter wrote:
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
1. Use only the OEM recommended lubricant viscosity.
2. Don't put Fram-anything on any vehicle you own. Fram products are
junk. Stick with OEM or direct-replacement OEM-supplier parts.
3. Get a proper diagnosis made and quit worrying about band-aids.
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
1. Use only the OEM recommended lubricant viscosity.
2. Don't put Fram-anything on any vehicle you own. Fram products are
junk. Stick with OEM or direct-replacement OEM-supplier parts.
3. Get a proper diagnosis made and quit worrying about band-aids.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
NJPainter wrote:
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
1. Use only the OEM recommended lubricant viscosity.
2. Don't put Fram-anything on any vehicle you own. Fram products are
junk. Stick with OEM or direct-replacement OEM-supplier parts.
3. Get a proper diagnosis made and quit worrying about band-aids.
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
1. Use only the OEM recommended lubricant viscosity.
2. Don't put Fram-anything on any vehicle you own. Fram products are
junk. Stick with OEM or direct-replacement OEM-supplier parts.
3. Get a proper diagnosis made and quit worrying about band-aids.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
NJPainter wrote:
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
1. Use only the OEM recommended lubricant viscosity.
2. Don't put Fram-anything on any vehicle you own. Fram products are
junk. Stick with OEM or direct-replacement OEM-supplier parts.
3. Get a proper diagnosis made and quit worrying about band-aids.
> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.
1. Use only the OEM recommended lubricant viscosity.
2. Don't put Fram-anything on any vehicle you own. Fram products are
junk. Stick with OEM or direct-replacement OEM-supplier parts.
3. Get a proper diagnosis made and quit worrying about band-aids.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
On 13 Oct 2006 09:11:01 -0700, "NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>> 4000 miles isn't really that long, and it's not NEARLY enough to cause
>> the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
>> miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
>> not one 4,000 interval.
>>
>
>what if I used Hyperlube, instead of Lucas?
>
> Man, I don't know what the deal is, all I know is that I let the oil
>go to long in the dead of the summer, when I was doing a ton of stop
>and go driving, stops, and re-starts. About 4 or 5 a day.
>
>The problem first presented itself after driving 40 minutes or so at
>70-80 MPH, then sitting in traffic for another half hour or more.
>That's why I think it has to do with the oil. But I'm probably wrong.
No, you're probably an idiot, and most likely your "mechanic" is too.
You have been told several times what needs to be done. You need a
mechanical gauge hooked up to it when the dash gauge is reading zero
so you can verify that the engine does, or doesn't have oil pressure.
If this wasn't the first thing your "mechanic" did, then you need to
drop the ------- like a bad habit. If you're not capable of hooking
up a mechanical gauge, then pay somebody who is. My guess is you have
a problem with the "pay" word. You whine about the dealer's
diagnostic fee, yet you have no problem with your "mechanic's"
guessing it has plugged returns, which, if you've been honest and you
only went 4,000 miles on one oil change, is impossible.
Either way, get it checked out BEFORE coming back here with more
whining and 'what if's.
>
>Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>> 4000 miles isn't really that long, and it's not NEARLY enough to cause
>> the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
>> miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
>> not one 4,000 interval.
>>
>
>what if I used Hyperlube, instead of Lucas?
>
> Man, I don't know what the deal is, all I know is that I let the oil
>go to long in the dead of the summer, when I was doing a ton of stop
>and go driving, stops, and re-starts. About 4 or 5 a day.
>
>The problem first presented itself after driving 40 minutes or so at
>70-80 MPH, then sitting in traffic for another half hour or more.
>That's why I think it has to do with the oil. But I'm probably wrong.
No, you're probably an idiot, and most likely your "mechanic" is too.
You have been told several times what needs to be done. You need a
mechanical gauge hooked up to it when the dash gauge is reading zero
so you can verify that the engine does, or doesn't have oil pressure.
If this wasn't the first thing your "mechanic" did, then you need to
drop the ------- like a bad habit. If you're not capable of hooking
up a mechanical gauge, then pay somebody who is. My guess is you have
a problem with the "pay" word. You whine about the dealer's
diagnostic fee, yet you have no problem with your "mechanic's"
guessing it has plugged returns, which, if you've been honest and you
only went 4,000 miles on one oil change, is impossible.
Either way, get it checked out BEFORE coming back here with more
whining and 'what if's.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
On 13 Oct 2006 09:11:01 -0700, "NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>> 4000 miles isn't really that long, and it's not NEARLY enough to cause
>> the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
>> miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
>> not one 4,000 interval.
>>
>
>what if I used Hyperlube, instead of Lucas?
>
> Man, I don't know what the deal is, all I know is that I let the oil
>go to long in the dead of the summer, when I was doing a ton of stop
>and go driving, stops, and re-starts. About 4 or 5 a day.
>
>The problem first presented itself after driving 40 minutes or so at
>70-80 MPH, then sitting in traffic for another half hour or more.
>That's why I think it has to do with the oil. But I'm probably wrong.
No, you're probably an idiot, and most likely your "mechanic" is too.
You have been told several times what needs to be done. You need a
mechanical gauge hooked up to it when the dash gauge is reading zero
so you can verify that the engine does, or doesn't have oil pressure.
If this wasn't the first thing your "mechanic" did, then you need to
drop the ------- like a bad habit. If you're not capable of hooking
up a mechanical gauge, then pay somebody who is. My guess is you have
a problem with the "pay" word. You whine about the dealer's
diagnostic fee, yet you have no problem with your "mechanic's"
guessing it has plugged returns, which, if you've been honest and you
only went 4,000 miles on one oil change, is impossible.
Either way, get it checked out BEFORE coming back here with more
whining and 'what if's.
>
>Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>> 4000 miles isn't really that long, and it's not NEARLY enough to cause
>> the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
>> miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
>> not one 4,000 interval.
>>
>
>what if I used Hyperlube, instead of Lucas?
>
> Man, I don't know what the deal is, all I know is that I let the oil
>go to long in the dead of the summer, when I was doing a ton of stop
>and go driving, stops, and re-starts. About 4 or 5 a day.
>
>The problem first presented itself after driving 40 minutes or so at
>70-80 MPH, then sitting in traffic for another half hour or more.
>That's why I think it has to do with the oil. But I'm probably wrong.
No, you're probably an idiot, and most likely your "mechanic" is too.
You have been told several times what needs to be done. You need a
mechanical gauge hooked up to it when the dash gauge is reading zero
so you can verify that the engine does, or doesn't have oil pressure.
If this wasn't the first thing your "mechanic" did, then you need to
drop the ------- like a bad habit. If you're not capable of hooking
up a mechanical gauge, then pay somebody who is. My guess is you have
a problem with the "pay" word. You whine about the dealer's
diagnostic fee, yet you have no problem with your "mechanic's"
guessing it has plugged returns, which, if you've been honest and you
only went 4,000 miles on one oil change, is impossible.
Either way, get it checked out BEFORE coming back here with more
whining and 'what if's.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
On 13 Oct 2006 09:11:01 -0700, "NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>> 4000 miles isn't really that long, and it's not NEARLY enough to cause
>> the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
>> miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
>> not one 4,000 interval.
>>
>
>what if I used Hyperlube, instead of Lucas?
>
> Man, I don't know what the deal is, all I know is that I let the oil
>go to long in the dead of the summer, when I was doing a ton of stop
>and go driving, stops, and re-starts. About 4 or 5 a day.
>
>The problem first presented itself after driving 40 minutes or so at
>70-80 MPH, then sitting in traffic for another half hour or more.
>That's why I think it has to do with the oil. But I'm probably wrong.
No, you're probably an idiot, and most likely your "mechanic" is too.
You have been told several times what needs to be done. You need a
mechanical gauge hooked up to it when the dash gauge is reading zero
so you can verify that the engine does, or doesn't have oil pressure.
If this wasn't the first thing your "mechanic" did, then you need to
drop the ------- like a bad habit. If you're not capable of hooking
up a mechanical gauge, then pay somebody who is. My guess is you have
a problem with the "pay" word. You whine about the dealer's
diagnostic fee, yet you have no problem with your "mechanic's"
guessing it has plugged returns, which, if you've been honest and you
only went 4,000 miles on one oil change, is impossible.
Either way, get it checked out BEFORE coming back here with more
whining and 'what if's.
>
>Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>> 4000 miles isn't really that long, and it's not NEARLY enough to cause
>> the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
>> miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
>> not one 4,000 interval.
>>
>
>what if I used Hyperlube, instead of Lucas?
>
> Man, I don't know what the deal is, all I know is that I let the oil
>go to long in the dead of the summer, when I was doing a ton of stop
>and go driving, stops, and re-starts. About 4 or 5 a day.
>
>The problem first presented itself after driving 40 minutes or so at
>70-80 MPH, then sitting in traffic for another half hour or more.
>That's why I think it has to do with the oil. But I'm probably wrong.
No, you're probably an idiot, and most likely your "mechanic" is too.
You have been told several times what needs to be done. You need a
mechanical gauge hooked up to it when the dash gauge is reading zero
so you can verify that the engine does, or doesn't have oil pressure.
If this wasn't the first thing your "mechanic" did, then you need to
drop the ------- like a bad habit. If you're not capable of hooking
up a mechanical gauge, then pay somebody who is. My guess is you have
a problem with the "pay" word. You whine about the dealer's
diagnostic fee, yet you have no problem with your "mechanic's"
guessing it has plugged returns, which, if you've been honest and you
only went 4,000 miles on one oil change, is impossible.
Either way, get it checked out BEFORE coming back here with more
whining and 'what if's.
