New engine break in procedure
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
8500 RPM drag engine.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C4EF80.CFC01EFF@***.net...
> I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
> all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
> I stick in the compressor.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> Gary Tateosian wrote:
> >
> > ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
> > nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
> > and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
> > (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
> > I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
> > engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
> > used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
> > service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
> > not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
> > such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
> > high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
> > some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
> > generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
> > break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
> > high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
> > a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
> > using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
> > heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
> > both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
> > non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
> > cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
> > rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
> > jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
> > aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
> > longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
> > make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
> > the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
> > everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
> >
> > ...Gareth
and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
8500 RPM drag engine.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C4EF80.CFC01EFF@***.net...
> I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
> all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
> I stick in the compressor.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> Gary Tateosian wrote:
> >
> > ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
> > nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
> > and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
> > (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
> > I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
> > engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
> > used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
> > service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
> > not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
> > such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
> > high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
> > some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
> > generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
> > break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
> > high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
> > a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
> > using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
> > heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
> > both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
> > non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
> > cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
> > rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
> > jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
> > aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
> > longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
> > make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
> > the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
> > everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
> >
> > ...Gareth
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
it again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
> and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
> several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
> or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
> 8500 RPM drag engine.
>
> Chris
wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
it again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
> and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
> several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
> or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
> 8500 RPM drag engine.
>
> Chris
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
it again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
> and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
> several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
> or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
> 8500 RPM drag engine.
>
> Chris
wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
it again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
> and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
> several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
> or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
> 8500 RPM drag engine.
>
> Chris
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
it again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
> and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
> several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
> or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
> 8500 RPM drag engine.
>
> Chris
wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
it again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
> and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
> several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
> or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
> 8500 RPM drag engine.
>
> Chris
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
it again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
> and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
> several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
> or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
> 8500 RPM drag engine.
>
> Chris
wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
it again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
> and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
> several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
> or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
> 8500 RPM drag engine.
>
> Chris
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
I'm sure there are multiple ways to prelube an engine without having
problems. The best thing to do, is do what you know works for you. I
actually use a small amount of cam break in lube on the piston pins so that
it stays where it needs to be until the engine is fired. The main thing is
that there is absolutely no dirt in the engine and everything is well
lubricated before fire up.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C53AAD.D1376279@***.net...
> Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
> wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
> bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
> hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
> fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
> have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
> fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
> in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
> a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
> it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the
cylinders
> > and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told
by
> > several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> > especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds
water
> > or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild
or a
> > 8500 RPM drag engine.
> >
> > Chris
problems. The best thing to do, is do what you know works for you. I
actually use a small amount of cam break in lube on the piston pins so that
it stays where it needs to be until the engine is fired. The main thing is
that there is absolutely no dirt in the engine and everything is well
lubricated before fire up.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C53AAD.D1376279@***.net...
> Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
> wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
> bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
> hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
> fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
> have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
> fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
> in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
> a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
> it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the
cylinders
> > and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told
by
> > several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> > especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds
water
> > or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild
or a
> > 8500 RPM drag engine.
> >
> > Chris
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
I'm sure there are multiple ways to prelube an engine without having
problems. The best thing to do, is do what you know works for you. I
actually use a small amount of cam break in lube on the piston pins so that
it stays where it needs to be until the engine is fired. The main thing is
that there is absolutely no dirt in the engine and everything is well
lubricated before fire up.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C53AAD.D1376279@***.net...
> Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
> wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
> bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
> hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
> fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
> have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
> fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
> in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
> a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
> it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the
cylinders
> > and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told
by
> > several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> > especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds
water
> > or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild
or a
> > 8500 RPM drag engine.
> >
> > Chris
problems. The best thing to do, is do what you know works for you. I
actually use a small amount of cam break in lube on the piston pins so that
it stays where it needs to be until the engine is fired. The main thing is
that there is absolutely no dirt in the engine and everything is well
lubricated before fire up.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C53AAD.D1376279@***.net...
> Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
> wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
> bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
> hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
> fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
> have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
> fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
> in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
> a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
> it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the
cylinders
> > and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told
by
> > several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> > especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds
water
> > or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild
or a
> > 8500 RPM drag engine.
> >
> > Chris
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
I'm sure there are multiple ways to prelube an engine without having
problems. The best thing to do, is do what you know works for you. I
actually use a small amount of cam break in lube on the piston pins so that
it stays where it needs to be until the engine is fired. The main thing is
that there is absolutely no dirt in the engine and everything is well
lubricated before fire up.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C53AAD.D1376279@***.net...
> Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
> wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
> bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
> hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
> fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
> have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
> fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
> in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
> a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
> it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the
cylinders
> > and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told
by
> > several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> > especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds
water
> > or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild
or a
> > 8500 RPM drag engine.
> >
> > Chris
problems. The best thing to do, is do what you know works for you. I
actually use a small amount of cam break in lube on the piston pins so that
it stays where it needs to be until the engine is fired. The main thing is
that there is absolutely no dirt in the engine and everything is well
lubricated before fire up.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C53AAD.D1376279@***.net...
> Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
> wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
> bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
> hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
> fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
> have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
> fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
> in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
> a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
> it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the
cylinders
> > and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told
by
> > several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> > especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds
water
> > or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild
or a
> > 8500 RPM drag engine.
> >
> > Chris
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
I'm sure there are multiple ways to prelube an engine without having
problems. The best thing to do, is do what you know works for you. I
actually use a small amount of cam break in lube on the piston pins so that
it stays where it needs to be until the engine is fired. The main thing is
that there is absolutely no dirt in the engine and everything is well
lubricated before fire up.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C53AAD.D1376279@***.net...
> Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
> wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
> bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
> hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
> fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
> have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
> fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
> in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
> a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
> it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the
cylinders
> > and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told
by
> > several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> > especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds
water
> > or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild
or a
> > 8500 RPM drag engine.
> >
> > Chris
problems. The best thing to do, is do what you know works for you. I
actually use a small amount of cam break in lube on the piston pins so that
it stays where it needs to be until the engine is fired. The main thing is
that there is absolutely no dirt in the engine and everything is well
lubricated before fire up.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C53AAD.D1376279@***.net...
> Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
> wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
> bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
> hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
> fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
> have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
> fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
> in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
> a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
> it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the
cylinders
> > and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told
by
> > several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
> > especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds
water
> > or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild
or a
> > 8500 RPM drag engine.
> >
> > Chris
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
That's oscillating my RPM in order keep the rings under a load, and
watching my temperature gauge.
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
> wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
> bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
> hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
> fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
> have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
> fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
> in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
> a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
> it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
watching my temperature gauge.
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Whatever works for you I just wanted to make sure the floating
> wrist pins were ready to go and than meant dunking the pistons in a
> bucket of the same detergent oil I used for the first fifty and five
> hundred miles. And I kept it between two and four grand for the first
> fifty miles isolating my speed, except when a Chevy would come up and I
> have to blow in the weeds, then it was back to the cherry picker. That
> fifty miles was the hardest thing for me to get through, when everyone
> in North County San Diego was gunning for me. Fortunately I usually had
> a spare in that I had just taken out ready, to give me time to rebuild
> it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/