New engine break in procedure
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Frank,
> All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
> installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
> fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
> up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
> Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
> the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
> drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
> it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
> then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
> the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
> very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
> miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
> honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> FrankW wrote:
>
>>Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>>
>>http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>>
>>Comments anyone?
>>For me, I always say to drive it normally.
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Frank,
> All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
> installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
> fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
> up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
> Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
> the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
> drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
> it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
> then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
> the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
> very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
> miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
> honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> FrankW wrote:
>
>>Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>>
>>http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>>
>>Comments anyone?
>>For me, I always say to drive it normally.
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 12:14:54 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
>again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>FrankW wrote:
>>
>> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
....I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
(which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
....Gareth
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
>again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>FrankW wrote:
>>
>> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
....I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
(which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
....Gareth
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 12:14:54 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
>again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>FrankW wrote:
>>
>> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
....I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
(which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
....Gareth
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
>again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>FrankW wrote:
>>
>> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
....I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
(which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
....Gareth
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 12:14:54 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
>again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>FrankW wrote:
>>
>> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
....I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
(which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
....Gareth
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
>again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>FrankW wrote:
>>
>> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
....I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
(which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
....Gareth
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 12:14:54 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
>again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>FrankW wrote:
>>
>> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
....I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
(which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
....Gareth
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Your rings will never seat, it will have to be dissemble and honed
>again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>FrankW wrote:
>>
>> LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways
....I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
(which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
....Gareth
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
I stick in the compressor.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Gary Tateosian wrote:
>
> ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
> nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
> and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
> (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
> I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
> engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
> used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
> service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
> not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
> such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
> high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
> some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
> generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
> break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
> high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
> a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
> using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
> heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
> both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
> non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
> cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
> rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
> jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
> aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
> longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
> make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
> the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
> everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
>
> ...Gareth
all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
I stick in the compressor.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Gary Tateosian wrote:
>
> ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
> nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
> and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
> (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
> I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
> engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
> used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
> service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
> not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
> such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
> high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
> some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
> generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
> break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
> high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
> a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
> using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
> heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
> both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
> non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
> cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
> rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
> jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
> aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
> longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
> make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
> the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
> everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
>
> ...Gareth