Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
02-14-2004, 09:09 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
you know how well it turns out.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:402EC3EE.D3C7DB13@***.net...
> One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
> at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing
> plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star
> pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg
> and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone
> too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting
> lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one
> in center:
> http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg
> Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch
> back to DOT 3.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Drink wrote:
> >
> > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
ougtta
> > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
11"
> > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
pedal
> > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
but
> > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
went
> > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
replaced
> > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
brakes
> > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
keeping
> > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
a
> > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
again?
> > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > o_o_o_o
> > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
you know how well it turns out.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:402EC3EE.D3C7DB13@***.net...
> One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
> at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing
> plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star
> pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg
> and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone
> too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting
> lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one
> in center:
> http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg
> Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch
> back to DOT 3.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Drink wrote:
> >
> > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
ougtta
> > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
11"
> > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
pedal
> > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
but
> > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
went
> > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
replaced
> > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
brakes
> > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
keeping
> > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
a
> > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
again?
> > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > o_o_o_o
> > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
02-14-2004, 09:09 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
you know how well it turns out.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:402EC3EE.D3C7DB13@***.net...
> One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
> at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing
> plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star
> pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg
> and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone
> too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting
> lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one
> in center:
> http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg
> Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch
> back to DOT 3.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Drink wrote:
> >
> > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
ougtta
> > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
11"
> > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
pedal
> > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
but
> > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
went
> > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
replaced
> > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
brakes
> > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
keeping
> > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
a
> > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
again?
> > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > o_o_o_o
> > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
you know how well it turns out.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:402EC3EE.D3C7DB13@***.net...
> One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
> at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing
> plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star
> pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg
> and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone
> too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting
> lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one
> in center:
> http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg
> Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch
> back to DOT 3.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Drink wrote:
> >
> > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
ougtta
> > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
11"
> > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
pedal
> > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
but
> > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
went
> > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
replaced
> > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
brakes
> > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
keeping
> > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
a
> > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
again?
> > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > o_o_o_o
> > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
02-14-2004, 09:09 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
you know how well it turns out.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:402EC3EE.D3C7DB13@***.net...
> One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
> at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing
> plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star
> pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg
> and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone
> too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting
> lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one
> in center:
> http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg
> Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch
> back to DOT 3.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Drink wrote:
> >
> > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
ougtta
> > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
11"
> > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
pedal
> > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
but
> > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
went
> > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
replaced
> > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
brakes
> > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
keeping
> > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
a
> > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
again?
> > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > o_o_o_o
> > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
you know how well it turns out.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:402EC3EE.D3C7DB13@***.net...
> One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
> at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing
> plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star
> pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg
> and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone
> too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting
> lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one
> in center:
> http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg
> Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch
> back to DOT 3.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Drink wrote:
> >
> > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
ougtta
> > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
11"
> > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
pedal
> > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
but
> > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
went
> > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
replaced
> > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
brakes
> > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
keeping
> > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
a
> > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
again?
> > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > o_o_o_o
> > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
02-14-2004, 11:00 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
The pin will need to be held in on most of them or basically held
steady. There are a couple different types, some don't even have the
pin.
Mike
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice, Mike. I was thinking that maybe I was neglecting
> the P valve. I know there's a plunger of some sort on it and understand it
> takes a special tool to pull it out. (Dumb question) How important is it
> that I should be pulling that plunger out on the proportioning valve when I
> bleed the brakes? Any advice on doing it without a special tool or ten
> hands just to bleed the brakes?
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:402EBA3A.129ADFFC@sympatico.ca...
> > The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were
> > bad.... I gave up and went new.
> >
> > If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently
> > 'mushy' with a pump up to hard.
> >
> > If it hits the floor, the master is toast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
> ougtta
> > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
> 11"
> > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
> pedal
> > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
> but
> > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
> went
> > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
> replaced
> > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
> brakes
> > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
> keeping
> > > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
> a
> > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
> again?
> > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
steady. There are a couple different types, some don't even have the
pin.
Mike
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice, Mike. I was thinking that maybe I was neglecting
> the P valve. I know there's a plunger of some sort on it and understand it
> takes a special tool to pull it out. (Dumb question) How important is it
> that I should be pulling that plunger out on the proportioning valve when I
> bleed the brakes? Any advice on doing it without a special tool or ten
> hands just to bleed the brakes?
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:402EBA3A.129ADFFC@sympatico.ca...
> > The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were
> > bad.... I gave up and went new.
> >
> > If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently
> > 'mushy' with a pump up to hard.
> >
> > If it hits the floor, the master is toast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
> ougtta
> > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
> 11"
> > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
> pedal
> > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
> but
> > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
> went
> > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
> replaced
> > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
> brakes
> > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
> keeping
> > > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
> a
> > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
> again?
> > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
02-14-2004, 11:00 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
The pin will need to be held in on most of them or basically held
steady. There are a couple different types, some don't even have the
pin.
Mike
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice, Mike. I was thinking that maybe I was neglecting
> the P valve. I know there's a plunger of some sort on it and understand it
> takes a special tool to pull it out. (Dumb question) How important is it
> that I should be pulling that plunger out on the proportioning valve when I
> bleed the brakes? Any advice on doing it without a special tool or ten
> hands just to bleed the brakes?
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:402EBA3A.129ADFFC@sympatico.ca...
> > The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were
> > bad.... I gave up and went new.
> >
> > If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently
> > 'mushy' with a pump up to hard.
> >
> > If it hits the floor, the master is toast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
> ougtta
> > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
> 11"
> > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
> pedal
> > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
> but
> > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
> went
> > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
> replaced
> > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
> brakes
> > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
> keeping
> > > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
> a
> > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
> again?
> > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
steady. There are a couple different types, some don't even have the
pin.
Mike
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice, Mike. I was thinking that maybe I was neglecting
> the P valve. I know there's a plunger of some sort on it and understand it
> takes a special tool to pull it out. (Dumb question) How important is it
> that I should be pulling that plunger out on the proportioning valve when I
> bleed the brakes? Any advice on doing it without a special tool or ten
> hands just to bleed the brakes?
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:402EBA3A.129ADFFC@sympatico.ca...
> > The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were
> > bad.... I gave up and went new.
> >
> > If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently
> > 'mushy' with a pump up to hard.
> >
> > If it hits the floor, the master is toast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
> ougtta
> > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
> 11"
> > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
> pedal
> > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
> but
> > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
> went
> > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
> replaced
> > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
> brakes
> > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
> keeping
> > > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
> a
> > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
> again?
> > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
02-14-2004, 11:00 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
The pin will need to be held in on most of them or basically held
steady. There are a couple different types, some don't even have the
pin.
Mike
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice, Mike. I was thinking that maybe I was neglecting
> the P valve. I know there's a plunger of some sort on it and understand it
> takes a special tool to pull it out. (Dumb question) How important is it
> that I should be pulling that plunger out on the proportioning valve when I
> bleed the brakes? Any advice on doing it without a special tool or ten
> hands just to bleed the brakes?
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:402EBA3A.129ADFFC@sympatico.ca...
> > The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were
> > bad.... I gave up and went new.
> >
> > If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently
> > 'mushy' with a pump up to hard.
> >
> > If it hits the floor, the master is toast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
> ougtta
> > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
> 11"
> > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
> pedal
> > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
> but
> > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
> went
> > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
> replaced
> > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
> brakes
> > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
> keeping
> > > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
> a
> > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
> again?
> > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
steady. There are a couple different types, some don't even have the
pin.
Mike
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice, Mike. I was thinking that maybe I was neglecting
> the P valve. I know there's a plunger of some sort on it and understand it
> takes a special tool to pull it out. (Dumb question) How important is it
> that I should be pulling that plunger out on the proportioning valve when I
> bleed the brakes? Any advice on doing it without a special tool or ten
> hands just to bleed the brakes?
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:402EBA3A.129ADFFC@sympatico.ca...
> > The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were
> > bad.... I gave up and went new.
> >
> > If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently
> > 'mushy' with a pump up to hard.
> >
> > If it hits the floor, the master is toast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
> ougtta
> > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
> 11"
> > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
> pedal
> > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
> but
> > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
> went
> > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
> replaced
> > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
> brakes
> > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
> keeping
> > > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
> a
> > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
> again?
> > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
02-15-2004, 01:29 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
The slack adjuster only ratchets once each time the brakes are
released after stopping in reverse. If you adjusted the shoes to fit the
drums, then you have air in the system.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
> dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
> are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
> shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
> forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
> tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
> to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
> you know how well it turns out.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
released after stopping in reverse. If you adjusted the shoes to fit the
drums, then you have air in the system.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
> dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
> are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
> shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
> forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
> tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
> to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
> you know how well it turns out.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
02-15-2004, 01:29 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
The slack adjuster only ratchets once each time the brakes are
released after stopping in reverse. If you adjusted the shoes to fit the
drums, then you have air in the system.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
> dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
> are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
> shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
> forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
> tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
> to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
> you know how well it turns out.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
released after stopping in reverse. If you adjusted the shoes to fit the
drums, then you have air in the system.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
> dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
> are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
> shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
> forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
> tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
> to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
> you know how well it turns out.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
02-15-2004, 01:29 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
The slack adjuster only ratchets once each time the brakes are
released after stopping in reverse. If you adjusted the shoes to fit the
drums, then you have air in the system.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
> dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
> are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
> shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
> forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
> tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
> to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
> you know how well it turns out.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
released after stopping in reverse. If you adjusted the shoes to fit the
drums, then you have air in the system.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
> dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
> are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
> shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
> forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
> tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
> to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
> you know how well it turns out.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
02-15-2004, 10:49 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
The brakes have to be almost adjusted perfect before the reverse
adjusters will work.
If they are too loose to start, the cable won't pull far enough to click
the star wheel.
Mike
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
> dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
> are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
> shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
> forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
> tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
> to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
> you know how well it turns out.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:402EC3EE.D3C7DB13@***.net...
> > One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
> > at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing
> > plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star
> > pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg
> > and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone
> > too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting
> > lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one
> > in center:
> > http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg
> > Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch
> > back to DOT 3.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
> ougtta
> > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
> 11"
> > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
> pedal
> > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
> but
> > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
> went
> > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
> replaced
> > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
> brakes
> > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
> keeping
> > > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
> a
> > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
> again?
> > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
adjusters will work.
If they are too loose to start, the cable won't pull far enough to click
the star wheel.
Mike
Drink wrote:
>
> Thanks, Bill. I'm going to adjust them "professionally" tomorrow if it's
> dry (rained here all week long). All the springs, adjusters, cables, etc
> are still clean and new and I assumed it all works well. I adjusted the
> shoes, wheels off, and then tried to use the auto adjusters by braking
> forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse. Call it the shade
> tree mechanic in me. Every once in a while, it calls me back to the basics
> to prove I can do a professional job:) I'm sure it will help but I'll let
> you know how well it turns out.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:402EC3EE.D3C7DB13@***.net...
> > One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
> > at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing
> > plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star
> > pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg
> > and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone
> > too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting
> > lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one
> > in center:
> > http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg
> > Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch
> > back to DOT 3.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they
> ougtta
> > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and
> 11"
> > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the
> pedal
> > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would
> > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid
> but
> > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder
> went
> > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even
> replaced
> > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the
> brakes
> > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's
> keeping
> > > the brakes from the crispness they should have?
> > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped
> a
> > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old.
> > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes
> again?
> > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give.
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W