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Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they ougtta
have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and 11" drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the pedal went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid but then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder went south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even replaced the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the brakes mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's keeping the brakes from the crispness they should have? Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped a quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old. What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes again? I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give. o_o_o_o Best Regards, /| ,[_____], Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W |
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were
bad.... I gave up and went new. If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently 'mushy' with a pump up to hard. If it hits the floor, the master is toast. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Drink wrote: > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they ougtta > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and 11" > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the pedal > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid but > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder went > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even replaced > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the brakes > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's keeping > the brakes from the crispness they should have? > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped a > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old. > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes again? > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give. > o_o_o_o > Best Regards, /| ,[_____], > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W |
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were
bad.... I gave up and went new. If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently 'mushy' with a pump up to hard. If it hits the floor, the master is toast. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Drink wrote: > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they ougtta > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and 11" > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the pedal > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid but > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder went > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even replaced > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the brakes > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's keeping > the brakes from the crispness they should have? > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped a > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old. > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes again? > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give. > o_o_o_o > Best Regards, /| ,[_____], > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W |
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were
bad.... I gave up and went new. If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently 'mushy' with a pump up to hard. If it hits the floor, the master is toast. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Drink wrote: > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they ougtta > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and 11" > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the pedal > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid but > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder went > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even replaced > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the brakes > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's keeping > the brakes from the crispness they should have? > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped a > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old. > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes again? > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give. > o_o_o_o > Best Regards, /| ,[_____], > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W |
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
Thanks for the advice, Mike. I was thinking that maybe I was neglecting
the P valve. I know there's a plunger of some sort on it and understand it takes a special tool to pull it out. (Dumb question) How important is it that I should be pulling that plunger out on the proportioning valve when I bleed the brakes? Any advice on doing it without a special tool or ten hands just to bleed the brakes? o_o_o_o Best Regards, /| ,[_____], Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:402EBA3A.129ADFFC@sympatico.ca... > The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were > bad.... I gave up and went new. > > If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently > 'mushy' with a pump up to hard. > > If it hits the floor, the master is toast. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Drink wrote: > > > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they ougtta > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and 11" > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the pedal > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid but > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder went > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even replaced > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the brakes > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's keeping > > the brakes from the crispness they should have? > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped a > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old. > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes again? > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give. > > o_o_o_o > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____], > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W |
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
Thanks for the advice, Mike. I was thinking that maybe I was neglecting
the P valve. I know there's a plunger of some sort on it and understand it takes a special tool to pull it out. (Dumb question) How important is it that I should be pulling that plunger out on the proportioning valve when I bleed the brakes? Any advice on doing it without a special tool or ten hands just to bleed the brakes? o_o_o_o Best Regards, /| ,[_____], Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:402EBA3A.129ADFFC@sympatico.ca... > The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were > bad.... I gave up and went new. > > If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently > 'mushy' with a pump up to hard. > > If it hits the floor, the master is toast. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Drink wrote: > > > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they ougtta > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and 11" > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the pedal > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid but > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder went > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even replaced > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the brakes > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's keeping > > the brakes from the crispness they should have? > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped a > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old. > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes again? > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give. > > o_o_o_o > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____], > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W |
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
Thanks for the advice, Mike. I was thinking that maybe I was neglecting
the P valve. I know there's a plunger of some sort on it and understand it takes a special tool to pull it out. (Dumb question) How important is it that I should be pulling that plunger out on the proportioning valve when I bleed the brakes? Any advice on doing it without a special tool or ten hands just to bleed the brakes? o_o_o_o Best Regards, /| ,[_____], Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:402EBA3A.129ADFFC@sympatico.ca... > The last 3 out of 4 'rebuilt' masters I have gotten for Jeeps were > bad.... I gave up and went new. > > If the proportioning valve has air in it, it will be consistently > 'mushy' with a pump up to hard. > > If it hits the floor, the master is toast. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Drink wrote: > > > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they ougtta > > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and 11" > > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the pedal > > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would > > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid but > > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder went > > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even replaced > > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the brakes > > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's keeping > > the brakes from the crispness they should have? > > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped a > > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old. > > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes again? > > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give. > > o_o_o_o > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____], > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W |
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one in center: http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch back to DOT 3. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Drink wrote: > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they ougtta > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and 11" > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the pedal > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid but > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder went > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even replaced > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the brakes > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's keeping > the brakes from the crispness they should have? > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped a > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old. > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes again? > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give. > o_o_o_o > Best Regards, /| ,[_____], > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W |
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one in center: http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch back to DOT 3. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Drink wrote: > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they ougtta > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and 11" > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the pedal > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid but > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder went > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even replaced > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the brakes > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's keeping > the brakes from the crispness they should have? > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped a > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old. > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes again? > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give. > o_o_o_o > Best Regards, /| ,[_____], > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W |
Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
One or more of your self adjusters is not working. Jack them up one
at a time and remove the rubber access plug at the bottom of the backing plate, and stick a screw driver in and catch bottom of the star pictured: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg and pull it down and you will hear the ratchet clicking, if your gone too tight when use a very small screw driver to push off the adjusting lever so you may back it off. You may have to make a tool like the one in center: http://www.asianproducts.com/images/...477868200b.jpg Your brake cylinders will suck up less water and rust if you switch back to DOT 3. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Drink wrote: > > I've been trying to get my brakes back up to the snuff I know they ougtta > have but just can't get there. I have a 76 CJ-7, standard brakes and 11" > drums all around. Every once in a while, I'd brake and, "whoosh", the pedal > went to the floor. Hit it again and it'd brake normally but would > eventually make it to the floor. I flushed the lines with DOT 4 fluid but > then I had to pump 3-4 times to brake. I figured the master cylinder went > south and replaced it, primed it, flushed with more DOT 4 and even replaced > the front wheel cylinders just because they were cheap. Still, the brakes > mush toward the floor (not as bad) and need another pump. What's keeping > the brakes from the crispness they should have? > Recap: New master cylinder (primed), new DOT 4 fluid throughout (pumped a > quart through 'em), wheel cylinders and brake pads less than a year old. > What could it be? Proportioning valve? Need to tighten the shoes again? > I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice you can give. > o_o_o_o > Best Regards, /| ,[_____], > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O- > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_) > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W |
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