Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
 

That's exactly the same thing I usually do but the brake pedal never
really came all the way up under braking. I turned my drums a while ago so
they're smooth and have no lip at the edge. I think the thing is that the
shoes kind of float in that they can shift a little. I'd give 'em a good
bang from both directions to get 'em centered and seated. Still, they
weren't properly adjusted.
They're much better now but not as good as I'd like. I notice sometimes
that when I brake at the first intersection, it stops on a dime. I'd like
to get 'em up to stopping on a dime if my 120lbs wife were pushing them.
My brake shoes are regular asbestos type. If I run through water, they're
completely, absolutely, utterly gone for about 3-5 miles of riding the
brakes to dry 'em out. How much improvement do you guys think I'd see if I
went to a set of Raybestos Performance Friction shoes? How much do they
cost?
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |¯¯¯L --O|||||||O-
()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:_5PXb.44208$L_4.28119@okepread01...
> Drink did pass the time by typing:
> > Okay, I guess I could just quietly slink away but I'm gonna
self-identify
> > for the benefit of those who might've fallen into the same bad habit. I
> > adjusted the brake shoes from the access slot, with a proper tool, like
I
> > should've and found that three of the four star wheel adjusters were
about
> > two full turns loose. My technique of hand adjusting with the wheel off
is
> > lacking and the brakes are much better. It'll do in a pinch or where
you
> > just don't have time to get it fine-tuned but it's not good enough.
>
> I just adjust the star to the point where the drums will not slide on then
> back off just enough to get them to go. Keeping in mind that if you have
> a lip around the brake drum you will still be out.
>
> They make a tool for getting the right adjustment.
> Mine was plastic and got smashed or I'd put up a photo.
> You set one side to the maximum diameter in the drum and
> the other gave you a guide to set the pads with.
>
> Ahhah.. found it
> http://www.handsontools.com/store/sh...roduct_id=2866
> DougW

Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
 

That's exactly the same thing I usually do but the brake pedal never
really came all the way up under braking. I turned my drums a while ago so
they're smooth and have no lip at the edge. I think the thing is that the
shoes kind of float in that they can shift a little. I'd give 'em a good
bang from both directions to get 'em centered and seated. Still, they
weren't properly adjusted.
They're much better now but not as good as I'd like. I notice sometimes
that when I brake at the first intersection, it stops on a dime. I'd like
to get 'em up to stopping on a dime if my 120lbs wife were pushing them.
My brake shoes are regular asbestos type. If I run through water, they're
completely, absolutely, utterly gone for about 3-5 miles of riding the
brakes to dry 'em out. How much improvement do you guys think I'd see if I
went to a set of Raybestos Performance Friction shoes? How much do they
cost?
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |¯¯¯L --O|||||||O-
()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:_5PXb.44208$L_4.28119@okepread01...
> Drink did pass the time by typing:
> > Okay, I guess I could just quietly slink away but I'm gonna
self-identify
> > for the benefit of those who might've fallen into the same bad habit. I
> > adjusted the brake shoes from the access slot, with a proper tool, like
I
> > should've and found that three of the four star wheel adjusters were
about
> > two full turns loose. My technique of hand adjusting with the wheel off
is
> > lacking and the brakes are much better. It'll do in a pinch or where
you
> > just don't have time to get it fine-tuned but it's not good enough.
>
> I just adjust the star to the point where the drums will not slide on then
> back off just enough to get them to go. Keeping in mind that if you have
> a lip around the brake drum you will still be out.
>
> They make a tool for getting the right adjustment.
> Mine was plastic and got smashed or I'd put up a photo.
> You set one side to the maximum diameter in the drum and
> the other gave you a guide to set the pads with.
>
> Ahhah.. found it
> http://www.handsontools.com/store/sh...roduct_id=2866
> DougW

Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
 

That's exactly the same thing I usually do but the brake pedal never
really came all the way up under braking. I turned my drums a while ago so
they're smooth and have no lip at the edge. I think the thing is that the
shoes kind of float in that they can shift a little. I'd give 'em a good
bang from both directions to get 'em centered and seated. Still, they
weren't properly adjusted.
They're much better now but not as good as I'd like. I notice sometimes
that when I brake at the first intersection, it stops on a dime. I'd like
to get 'em up to stopping on a dime if my 120lbs wife were pushing them.
My brake shoes are regular asbestos type. If I run through water, they're
completely, absolutely, utterly gone for about 3-5 miles of riding the
brakes to dry 'em out. How much improvement do you guys think I'd see if I
went to a set of Raybestos Performance Friction shoes? How much do they
cost?
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |¯¯¯L --O|||||||O-
()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:_5PXb.44208$L_4.28119@okepread01...
> Drink did pass the time by typing:
> > Okay, I guess I could just quietly slink away but I'm gonna
self-identify
> > for the benefit of those who might've fallen into the same bad habit. I
> > adjusted the brake shoes from the access slot, with a proper tool, like
I
> > should've and found that three of the four star wheel adjusters were
about
> > two full turns loose. My technique of hand adjusting with the wheel off
is
> > lacking and the brakes are much better. It'll do in a pinch or where
you
> > just don't have time to get it fine-tuned but it's not good enough.
>
> I just adjust the star to the point where the drums will not slide on then
> back off just enough to get them to go. Keeping in mind that if you have
> a lip around the brake drum you will still be out.
>
> They make a tool for getting the right adjustment.
> Mine was plastic and got smashed or I'd put up a photo.
> You set one side to the maximum diameter in the drum and
> the other gave you a guide to set the pads with.
>
> Ahhah.. found it
> http://www.handsontools.com/store/sh...roduct_id=2866
> DougW

Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
 

When replacing shoes always make sure they rest on the rotation
anchor blocks, sometimes people adjust the emergency brake cables
throwing the resting position out of whack.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Drink wrote:
>
> That's exactly the same thing I usually do but the brake pedal never
> really came all the way up under braking. I turned my drums a while ago so
> they're smooth and have no lip at the edge. I think the thing is that the
> shoes kind of float in that they can shift a little. I'd give 'em a good
> bang from both directions to get 'em centered and seated. Still, they
> weren't properly adjusted.
> They're much better now but not as good as I'd like. I notice sometimes
> that when I brake at the first intersection, it stops on a dime. I'd like
> to get 'em up to stopping on a dime if my 120lbs wife were pushing them.
> My brake shoes are regular asbestos type. If I run through water, they're
> completely, absolutely, utterly gone for about 3-5 miles of riding the
> brakes to dry 'em out. How much improvement do you guys think I'd see if I
> went to a set of Raybestos Performance Friction shoes? How much do they
> cost?
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |¯¯¯L --O|||||||O-
> ()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W

Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
 

When replacing shoes always make sure they rest on the rotation
anchor blocks, sometimes people adjust the emergency brake cables
throwing the resting position out of whack.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Drink wrote:
>
> That's exactly the same thing I usually do but the brake pedal never
> really came all the way up under braking. I turned my drums a while ago so
> they're smooth and have no lip at the edge. I think the thing is that the
> shoes kind of float in that they can shift a little. I'd give 'em a good
> bang from both directions to get 'em centered and seated. Still, they
> weren't properly adjusted.
> They're much better now but not as good as I'd like. I notice sometimes
> that when I brake at the first intersection, it stops on a dime. I'd like
> to get 'em up to stopping on a dime if my 120lbs wife were pushing them.
> My brake shoes are regular asbestos type. If I run through water, they're
> completely, absolutely, utterly gone for about 3-5 miles of riding the
> brakes to dry 'em out. How much improvement do you guys think I'd see if I
> went to a set of Raybestos Performance Friction shoes? How much do they
> cost?
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |¯¯¯L --O|||||||O-
> ()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W

Re: Mushy Brakes on a CJ-7
 

When replacing shoes always make sure they rest on the rotation
anchor blocks, sometimes people adjust the emergency brake cables
throwing the resting position out of whack.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Drink wrote:
>
> That's exactly the same thing I usually do but the brake pedal never
> really came all the way up under braking. I turned my drums a while ago so
> they're smooth and have no lip at the edge. I think the thing is that the
> shoes kind of float in that they can shift a little. I'd give 'em a good
> bang from both directions to get 'em centered and seated. Still, they
> weren't properly adjusted.
> They're much better now but not as good as I'd like. I notice sometimes
> that when I brake at the first intersection, it stops on a dime. I'd like
> to get 'em up to stopping on a dime if my 120lbs wife were pushing them.
> My brake shoes are regular asbestos type. If I run through water, they're
> completely, absolutely, utterly gone for about 3-5 miles of riding the
> brakes to dry 'em out. How much improvement do you guys think I'd see if I
> went to a set of Raybestos Performance Friction shoes? How much do they
> cost?
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |¯¯¯L --O|||||||O-
> ()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W