Mixture Solenoid Delema- Rochester E2SE on '81 CJ5
Guest
Posts: n/a
I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and
my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that
I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when
the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong)
should I spend the
$350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope
it runs OK and passes California smog?
If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there
any cheaper or better alternatives?
Thanks,
Mike Stevens
my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that
I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when
the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong)
should I spend the
$350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope
it runs OK and passes California smog?
If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there
any cheaper or better alternatives?
Thanks,
Mike Stevens
Guest
Posts: n/a
That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds.
My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MStevens003 wrote:
> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and
> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that
> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when
> the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong)
> should I spend the
> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope
> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>
> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there
> any cheaper or better alternatives?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Stevens
>
>
>
is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds.
My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MStevens003 wrote:
> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and
> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that
> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when
> the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong)
> should I spend the
> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope
> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>
> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there
> any cheaper or better alternatives?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Stevens
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds.
My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MStevens003 wrote:
> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and
> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that
> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when
> the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong)
> should I spend the
> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope
> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>
> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there
> any cheaper or better alternatives?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Stevens
>
>
>
is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds.
My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MStevens003 wrote:
> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and
> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that
> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when
> the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong)
> should I spend the
> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope
> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>
> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there
> any cheaper or better alternatives?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Stevens
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds.
My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MStevens003 wrote:
> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and
> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that
> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when
> the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong)
> should I spend the
> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope
> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>
> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there
> any cheaper or better alternatives?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Stevens
>
>
>
is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds.
My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MStevens003 wrote:
> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and
> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that
> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when
> the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong)
> should I spend the
> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope
> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>
> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there
> any cheaper or better alternatives?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Stevens
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds.
My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MStevens003 wrote:
> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and
> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that
> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when
> the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong)
> should I spend the
> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope
> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>
> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there
> any cheaper or better alternatives?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Stevens
>
>
>
is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds.
My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MStevens003 wrote:
> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and
> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that
> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when
> the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong)
> should I spend the
> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope
> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>
> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there
> any cheaper or better alternatives?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Stevens
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum....
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
> is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My
> book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE
>> and
>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema
>> is that
>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and
>> hope
>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>
>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are
>> there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike Stevens
>>
>>
>>
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
> is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My
> book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE
>> and
>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema
>> is that
>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and
>> hope
>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>
>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are
>> there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike Stevens
>>
>>
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum....
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
> is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My
> book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE
>> and
>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema
>> is that
>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and
>> hope
>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>
>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are
>> there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike Stevens
>>
>>
>>
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
> is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My
> book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE
>> and
>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema
>> is that
>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and
>> hope
>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>
>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are
>> there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike Stevens
>>
>>
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum....
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
> is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My
> book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE
>> and
>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema
>> is that
>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and
>> hope
>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>
>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are
>> there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike Stevens
>>
>>
>>
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
> is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My
> book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE
>> and
>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema
>> is that
>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and
>> hope
>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>
>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are
>> there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike Stevens
>>
>>
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum....
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
> is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My
> book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE
>> and
>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema
>> is that
>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and
>> hope
>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>
>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are
>> there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike Stevens
>>
>>
>>
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it
> is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My
> book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE
>> and
>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema
>> is that
>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and
>> hope
>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>
>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are
>> there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike Stevens
>>
>>
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year?
I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it holds no
vacuum energised or not, hence my question.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum....
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it is
>> supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My
>> book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE
>>> and
>>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is
>>> that
>>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems
>>> when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb
>>> wrong) should I spend the
>>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and
>>> hope
>>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>>
>>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are
>>> there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Mike Stevens
>>>
>>>
>>>
I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it holds no
vacuum energised or not, hence my question.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum....
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it is
>> supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My
>> book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE
>>> and
>>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is
>>> that
>>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems
>>> when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb
>>> wrong) should I spend the
>>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and
>>> hope
>>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>>
>>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are
>>> there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Mike Stevens
>>>
>>>
>>>


