I don't see what you sugest I un-freeze. I can see no moving parts that are
accessible. The unit has those six holes in the side and you can see little
inside or get to anything to work it. I shall however let it soak for today.
I am going to take a chance on my engineering skills re the needle and seat.
I am told the kit I have IS the right one when it clearly is not. I will
retap the the needle seat insert so as to not modify the carb in any way
leaving my options open. As I see it all I need do is to get the needle seat
set at the correct height and this looks no big challenge as when I set the
float level any inacuracies will show up and I can screw in or out the
needdle seat to compensate. Any advice however before I do thias tonight is
much welcome. If this fails I will just have to buy a rebuilt carb as I do
not have time to mess with this much more. Thanks for input to date guys.
Jeep guys are cool and I regret moving to a Land Cruiser but I have bad
pains in my neck and need cover and warmth in my old age.

Regarding the spell check menu the drop down box is there but its only entry
in French?

Mike

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45cf30cf$0$22701$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>I don't know if this applies, but it is worth checking out.
>
> I suspect the unit is seized in the rich position which makes for no
> vacuum holding according to the book.
>
> Jeep carb parts like the chokes and other brass rods have a tendency to
> corrode where the brass goes through the white metal the case pieces are
> made out of. This can be fixed by spraying with copious amounts of carb
> cleaner or a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster, letting them soak, then
> working them gently with a pair if vise grips to break them free.
>
> This happens a 'lot' on the 80's carbs I see and repair. If you can make
> the part move by hand already, then ignore this, but if it is seized, this
> might fix it.
>
> You will not likely be able to make it run with the wrong needle and seat
> though, it's not just thread size.... You might have to buy another
> kit....
>
> Mike
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> See nothing move not hear any noise. But I got bigger problems. The
>> needle and seat in the kit is quite different from in my carb and I think
>> I threw the old needleaway! The only way I can now see to get it back
>> together is to retap the hole or re thread the seat. Things are real
>> tight right now and I was hoping to sell the CJ5 to see me throiugh a
>> while. If I had the cash I'd just buy a new carb. (Thinks???) Maybe I get
>> my wife to sell her bug. AND now as I proof this message I see my Outlook
>> Express has a Foreign spell checker. Just for fun after I send this post
>> I'll send you the corrected by Outlook!
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45ce7af5$0$3314$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> One other thing came to mind, does it move when you put the power to it?
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> We have basically no snow at all here in Southern Ontario. I was up
>>>> north a couple weeks ago and they had very little too. Barely enough
>>>> to run a sled on.
>>>>
>>>> Too bad about the blown part. I think I would look for a used carb for
>>>> parts. Maybe someone upgraded and has the old one kicking around?
>>>> There are two Rochester E2SE carbs for sale on ebay for $75 each....
>>>>
>>>> I doubt it would pass the smog, but how does it run like that?
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>> Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year?
>>>>> I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it
>>>>> holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question.
>>>>>
>>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>>> news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>>> Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any
>>>>>> vacuum....
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>>> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and
>>>>>>> it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5
>>>>>>> seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>>>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester
>>>>>>>> E2SE and
>>>>>>>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My
>>>>>>>> delema is that
>>>>>>>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>>>>>>>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>>>>>>>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>>>>>>>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back
>>>>>>>> and hope
>>>>>>>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or
>>>>>>>> are there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Mike Stevens
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>

 

I don't see what you sugest I un-freeze. I can see no moving parts that are
accessible. The unit has those six holes in the side and you can see little
inside or get to anything to work it. I shall however let it soak for today.
I am going to take a chance on my engineering skills re the needle and seat.
I am told the kit I have IS the right one when it clearly is not. I will
retap the the needle seat insert so as to not modify the carb in any way
leaving my options open. As I see it all I need do is to get the needle seat
set at the correct height and this looks no big challenge as when I set the
float level any inacuracies will show up and I can screw in or out the
needdle seat to compensate. Any advice however before I do thias tonight is
much welcome. If this fails I will just have to buy a rebuilt carb as I do
not have time to mess with this much more. Thanks for input to date guys.
Jeep guys are cool and I regret moving to a Land Cruiser but I have bad
pains in my neck and need cover and warmth in my old age.

Regarding the spell check menu the drop down box is there but its only entry
in French?

Mike

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45cf30cf$0$22701$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>I don't know if this applies, but it is worth checking out.
>
> I suspect the unit is seized in the rich position which makes for no
> vacuum holding according to the book.
>
> Jeep carb parts like the chokes and other brass rods have a tendency to
> corrode where the brass goes through the white metal the case pieces are
> made out of. This can be fixed by spraying with copious amounts of carb
> cleaner or a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster, letting them soak, then
> working them gently with a pair if vise grips to break them free.
>
> This happens a 'lot' on the 80's carbs I see and repair. If you can make
> the part move by hand already, then ignore this, but if it is seized, this
> might fix it.
>
> You will not likely be able to make it run with the wrong needle and seat
> though, it's not just thread size.... You might have to buy another
> kit....
>
> Mike
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> See nothing move not hear any noise. But I got bigger problems. The
>> needle and seat in the kit is quite different from in my carb and I think
>> I threw the old needleaway! The only way I can now see to get it back
>> together is to retap the hole or re thread the seat. Things are real
>> tight right now and I was hoping to sell the CJ5 to see me throiugh a
>> while. If I had the cash I'd just buy a new carb. (Thinks???) Maybe I get
>> my wife to sell her bug. AND now as I proof this message I see my Outlook
>> Express has a Foreign spell checker. Just for fun after I send this post
>> I'll send you the corrected by Outlook!
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45ce7af5$0$3314$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> One other thing came to mind, does it move when you put the power to it?
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> We have basically no snow at all here in Southern Ontario. I was up
>>>> north a couple weeks ago and they had very little too. Barely enough
>>>> to run a sled on.
>>>>
>>>> Too bad about the blown part. I think I would look for a used carb for
>>>> parts. Maybe someone upgraded and has the old one kicking around?
>>>> There are two Rochester E2SE carbs for sale on ebay for $75 each....
>>>>
>>>> I doubt it would pass the smog, but how does it run like that?
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>> Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year?
>>>>> I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it
>>>>> holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question.
>>>>>
>>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>>> news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>>> Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any
>>>>>> vacuum....
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>>> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and
>>>>>>> it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5
>>>>>>> seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>>>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester
>>>>>>>> E2SE and
>>>>>>>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My
>>>>>>>> delema is that
>>>>>>>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>>>>>>>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>>>>>>>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>>>>>>>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back
>>>>>>>> and hope
>>>>>>>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or
>>>>>>>> are there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Mike Stevens
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>

 

I don't see what you sugest I un-freeze. I can see no moving parts that are
accessible. The unit has those six holes in the side and you can see little
inside or get to anything to work it. I shall however let it soak for today.
I am going to take a chance on my engineering skills re the needle and seat.
I am told the kit I have IS the right one when it clearly is not. I will
retap the the needle seat insert so as to not modify the carb in any way
leaving my options open. As I see it all I need do is to get the needle seat
set at the correct height and this looks no big challenge as when I set the
float level any inacuracies will show up and I can screw in or out the
needdle seat to compensate. Any advice however before I do thias tonight is
much welcome. If this fails I will just have to buy a rebuilt carb as I do
not have time to mess with this much more. Thanks for input to date guys.
Jeep guys are cool and I regret moving to a Land Cruiser but I have bad
pains in my neck and need cover and warmth in my old age.

Regarding the spell check menu the drop down box is there but its only entry
in French?

Mike

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45cf30cf$0$22701$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>I don't know if this applies, but it is worth checking out.
>
> I suspect the unit is seized in the rich position which makes for no
> vacuum holding according to the book.
>
> Jeep carb parts like the chokes and other brass rods have a tendency to
> corrode where the brass goes through the white metal the case pieces are
> made out of. This can be fixed by spraying with copious amounts of carb
> cleaner or a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster, letting them soak, then
> working them gently with a pair if vise grips to break them free.
>
> This happens a 'lot' on the 80's carbs I see and repair. If you can make
> the part move by hand already, then ignore this, but if it is seized, this
> might fix it.
>
> You will not likely be able to make it run with the wrong needle and seat
> though, it's not just thread size.... You might have to buy another
> kit....
>
> Mike
>
> MStevens003 wrote:
>> See nothing move not hear any noise. But I got bigger problems. The
>> needle and seat in the kit is quite different from in my carb and I think
>> I threw the old needleaway! The only way I can now see to get it back
>> together is to retap the hole or re thread the seat. Things are real
>> tight right now and I was hoping to sell the CJ5 to see me throiugh a
>> while. If I had the cash I'd just buy a new carb. (Thinks???) Maybe I get
>> my wife to sell her bug. AND now as I proof this message I see my Outlook
>> Express has a Foreign spell checker. Just for fun after I send this post
>> I'll send you the corrected by Outlook!
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45ce7af5$0$3314$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> One other thing came to mind, does it move when you put the power to it?
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> We have basically no snow at all here in Southern Ontario. I was up
>>>> north a couple weeks ago and they had very little too. Barely enough
>>>> to run a sled on.
>>>>
>>>> Too bad about the blown part. I think I would look for a used carb for
>>>> parts. Maybe someone upgraded and has the old one kicking around?
>>>> There are two Rochester E2SE carbs for sale on ebay for $75 each....
>>>>
>>>> I doubt it would pass the smog, but how does it run like that?
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>> Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year?
>>>>> I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it
>>>>> holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question.
>>>>>
>>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>>> news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>>> Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any
>>>>>> vacuum....
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>>> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and
>>>>>>> it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5
>>>>>>> seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>>>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester
>>>>>>>> E2SE and
>>>>>>>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My
>>>>>>>> delema is that
>>>>>>>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>>>>>>>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>>>>>>>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>>>>>>>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back
>>>>>>>> and hope
>>>>>>>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or
>>>>>>>> are there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Mike Stevens
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>

 

Ok, I don't know what i am looking at then. The photo I thought was
right shows a rod coming out of it. The book calls it the mixture
control solenoid stem and it is supposed to be removable with an O-ring
under it. I was under the impression this should be a moving part.

Mike

MStevens003 wrote:
> I don't see what you sugest I un-freeze. I can see no moving parts that are
> accessible. The unit has those six holes in the side and you can see little
> inside or get to anything to work it. I shall however let it soak for today.
> I am going to take a chance on my engineering skills re the needle and seat.
> I am told the kit I have IS the right one when it clearly is not. I will
> retap the the needle seat insert so as to not modify the carb in any way
> leaving my options open. As I see it all I need do is to get the needle seat
> set at the correct height and this looks no big challenge as when I set the
> float level any inacuracies will show up and I can screw in or out the
> needdle seat to compensate. Any advice however before I do thias tonight is
> much welcome. If this fails I will just have to buy a rebuilt carb as I do
> not have time to mess with this much more. Thanks for input to date guys.
> Jeep guys are cool and I regret moving to a Land Cruiser but I have bad
> pains in my neck and need cover and warmth in my old age.
>
> Regarding the spell check menu the drop down box is there but its only entry
> in French?
>
> Mike
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45cf30cf$0$22701$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>> I don't know if this applies, but it is worth checking out.
>>
>> I suspect the unit is seized in the rich position which makes for no
>> vacuum holding according to the book.
>>
>> Jeep carb parts like the chokes and other brass rods have a tendency to
>> corrode where the brass goes through the white metal the case pieces are
>> made out of. This can be fixed by spraying with copious amounts of carb
>> cleaner or a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster, letting them soak, then
>> working them gently with a pair if vise grips to break them free.
>>
>> This happens a 'lot' on the 80's carbs I see and repair. If you can make
>> the part move by hand already, then ignore this, but if it is seized, this
>> might fix it.
>>
>> You will not likely be able to make it run with the wrong needle and seat
>> though, it's not just thread size.... You might have to buy another
>> kit....
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>> See nothing move not hear any noise. But I got bigger problems. The
>>> needle and seat in the kit is quite different from in my carb and I think
>>> I threw the old needleaway! The only way I can now see to get it back
>>> together is to retap the hole or re thread the seat. Things are real
>>> tight right now and I was hoping to sell the CJ5 to see me throiugh a
>>> while. If I had the cash I'd just buy a new carb. (Thinks???) Maybe I get
>>> my wife to sell her bug. AND now as I proof this message I see my Outlook
>>> Express has a Foreign spell checker. Just for fun after I send this post
>>> I'll send you the corrected by Outlook!
>>>
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:45ce7af5$0$3314$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> One other thing came to mind, does it move when you put the power to it?
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> We have basically no snow at all here in Southern Ontario. I was up
>>>>> north a couple weeks ago and they had very little too. Barely enough
>>>>> to run a sled on.
>>>>>
>>>>> Too bad about the blown part. I think I would look for a used carb for
>>>>> parts. Maybe someone upgraded and has the old one kicking around?
>>>>> There are two Rochester E2SE carbs for sale on ebay for $75 each....
>>>>>
>>>>> I doubt it would pass the smog, but how does it run like that?
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>>
>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>> Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year?
>>>>>> I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it
>>>>>> holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>>>> Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any
>>>>>>> vacuum....
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>>>> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and
>>>>>>>> it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5
>>>>>>>> seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester
>>>>>>>>> E2SE and
>>>>>>>>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My
>>>>>>>>> delema is that
>>>>>>>>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>>>>>>>>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>>>>>>>>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>>>>>>>>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back
>>>>>>>>> and hope
>>>>>>>>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or
>>>>>>>>> are there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Mike Stevens
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>

 

Ok, I don't know what i am looking at then. The photo I thought was
right shows a rod coming out of it. The book calls it the mixture
control solenoid stem and it is supposed to be removable with an O-ring
under it. I was under the impression this should be a moving part.

Mike

MStevens003 wrote:
> I don't see what you sugest I un-freeze. I can see no moving parts that are
> accessible. The unit has those six holes in the side and you can see little
> inside or get to anything to work it. I shall however let it soak for today.
> I am going to take a chance on my engineering skills re the needle and seat.
> I am told the kit I have IS the right one when it clearly is not. I will
> retap the the needle seat insert so as to not modify the carb in any way
> leaving my options open. As I see it all I need do is to get the needle seat
> set at the correct height and this looks no big challenge as when I set the
> float level any inacuracies will show up and I can screw in or out the
> needdle seat to compensate. Any advice however before I do thias tonight is
> much welcome. If this fails I will just have to buy a rebuilt carb as I do
> not have time to mess with this much more. Thanks for input to date guys.
> Jeep guys are cool and I regret moving to a Land Cruiser but I have bad
> pains in my neck and need cover and warmth in my old age.
>
> Regarding the spell check menu the drop down box is there but its only entry
> in French?
>
> Mike
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45cf30cf$0$22701$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>> I don't know if this applies, but it is worth checking out.
>>
>> I suspect the unit is seized in the rich position which makes for no
>> vacuum holding according to the book.
>>
>> Jeep carb parts like the chokes and other brass rods have a tendency to
>> corrode where the brass goes through the white metal the case pieces are
>> made out of. This can be fixed by spraying with copious amounts of carb
>> cleaner or a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster, letting them soak, then
>> working them gently with a pair if vise grips to break them free.
>>
>> This happens a 'lot' on the 80's carbs I see and repair. If you can make
>> the part move by hand already, then ignore this, but if it is seized, this
>> might fix it.
>>
>> You will not likely be able to make it run with the wrong needle and seat
>> though, it's not just thread size.... You might have to buy another
>> kit....
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>> See nothing move not hear any noise. But I got bigger problems. The
>>> needle and seat in the kit is quite different from in my carb and I think
>>> I threw the old needleaway! The only way I can now see to get it back
>>> together is to retap the hole or re thread the seat. Things are real
>>> tight right now and I was hoping to sell the CJ5 to see me throiugh a
>>> while. If I had the cash I'd just buy a new carb. (Thinks???) Maybe I get
>>> my wife to sell her bug. AND now as I proof this message I see my Outlook
>>> Express has a Foreign spell checker. Just for fun after I send this post
>>> I'll send you the corrected by Outlook!
>>>
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:45ce7af5$0$3314$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> One other thing came to mind, does it move when you put the power to it?
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> We have basically no snow at all here in Southern Ontario. I was up
>>>>> north a couple weeks ago and they had very little too. Barely enough
>>>>> to run a sled on.
>>>>>
>>>>> Too bad about the blown part. I think I would look for a used carb for
>>>>> parts. Maybe someone upgraded and has the old one kicking around?
>>>>> There are two Rochester E2SE carbs for sale on ebay for $75 each....
>>>>>
>>>>> I doubt it would pass the smog, but how does it run like that?
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>>
>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>> Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year?
>>>>>> I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it
>>>>>> holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>>>> Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any
>>>>>>> vacuum....
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>>>> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and
>>>>>>>> it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5
>>>>>>>> seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester
>>>>>>>>> E2SE and
>>>>>>>>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My
>>>>>>>>> delema is that
>>>>>>>>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>>>>>>>>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>>>>>>>>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>>>>>>>>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back
>>>>>>>>> and hope
>>>>>>>>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or
>>>>>>>>> are there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Mike Stevens
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>

 

Ok, I don't know what i am looking at then. The photo I thought was
right shows a rod coming out of it. The book calls it the mixture
control solenoid stem and it is supposed to be removable with an O-ring
under it. I was under the impression this should be a moving part.

Mike

MStevens003 wrote:
> I don't see what you sugest I un-freeze. I can see no moving parts that are
> accessible. The unit has those six holes in the side and you can see little
> inside or get to anything to work it. I shall however let it soak for today.
> I am going to take a chance on my engineering skills re the needle and seat.
> I am told the kit I have IS the right one when it clearly is not. I will
> retap the the needle seat insert so as to not modify the carb in any way
> leaving my options open. As I see it all I need do is to get the needle seat
> set at the correct height and this looks no big challenge as when I set the
> float level any inacuracies will show up and I can screw in or out the
> needdle seat to compensate. Any advice however before I do thias tonight is
> much welcome. If this fails I will just have to buy a rebuilt carb as I do
> not have time to mess with this much more. Thanks for input to date guys.
> Jeep guys are cool and I regret moving to a Land Cruiser but I have bad
> pains in my neck and need cover and warmth in my old age.
>
> Regarding the spell check menu the drop down box is there but its only entry
> in French?
>
> Mike
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45cf30cf$0$22701$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>> I don't know if this applies, but it is worth checking out.
>>
>> I suspect the unit is seized in the rich position which makes for no
>> vacuum holding according to the book.
>>
>> Jeep carb parts like the chokes and other brass rods have a tendency to
>> corrode where the brass goes through the white metal the case pieces are
>> made out of. This can be fixed by spraying with copious amounts of carb
>> cleaner or a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster, letting them soak, then
>> working them gently with a pair if vise grips to break them free.
>>
>> This happens a 'lot' on the 80's carbs I see and repair. If you can make
>> the part move by hand already, then ignore this, but if it is seized, this
>> might fix it.
>>
>> You will not likely be able to make it run with the wrong needle and seat
>> though, it's not just thread size.... You might have to buy another
>> kit....
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>> See nothing move not hear any noise. But I got bigger problems. The
>>> needle and seat in the kit is quite different from in my carb and I think
>>> I threw the old needleaway! The only way I can now see to get it back
>>> together is to retap the hole or re thread the seat. Things are real
>>> tight right now and I was hoping to sell the CJ5 to see me throiugh a
>>> while. If I had the cash I'd just buy a new carb. (Thinks???) Maybe I get
>>> my wife to sell her bug. AND now as I proof this message I see my Outlook
>>> Express has a Foreign spell checker. Just for fun after I send this post
>>> I'll send you the corrected by Outlook!
>>>
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:45ce7af5$0$3314$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> One other thing came to mind, does it move when you put the power to it?
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> We have basically no snow at all here in Southern Ontario. I was up
>>>>> north a couple weeks ago and they had very little too. Barely enough
>>>>> to run a sled on.
>>>>>
>>>>> Too bad about the blown part. I think I would look for a used carb for
>>>>> parts. Maybe someone upgraded and has the old one kicking around?
>>>>> There are two Rochester E2SE carbs for sale on ebay for $75 each....
>>>>>
>>>>> I doubt it would pass the smog, but how does it run like that?
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>>
>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>> Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year?
>>>>>> I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it
>>>>>> holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>>>> Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any
>>>>>>> vacuum....
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>>>> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and
>>>>>>>> it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5
>>>>>>>> seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester
>>>>>>>>> E2SE and
>>>>>>>>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My
>>>>>>>>> delema is that
>>>>>>>>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>>>>>>>>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>>>>>>>>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>>>>>>>>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back
>>>>>>>>> and hope
>>>>>>>>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or
>>>>>>>>> are there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Mike Stevens
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>

 

Ok, I don't know what i am looking at then. The photo I thought was
right shows a rod coming out of it. The book calls it the mixture
control solenoid stem and it is supposed to be removable with an O-ring
under it. I was under the impression this should be a moving part.

Mike

MStevens003 wrote:
> I don't see what you sugest I un-freeze. I can see no moving parts that are
> accessible. The unit has those six holes in the side and you can see little
> inside or get to anything to work it. I shall however let it soak for today.
> I am going to take a chance on my engineering skills re the needle and seat.
> I am told the kit I have IS the right one when it clearly is not. I will
> retap the the needle seat insert so as to not modify the carb in any way
> leaving my options open. As I see it all I need do is to get the needle seat
> set at the correct height and this looks no big challenge as when I set the
> float level any inacuracies will show up and I can screw in or out the
> needdle seat to compensate. Any advice however before I do thias tonight is
> much welcome. If this fails I will just have to buy a rebuilt carb as I do
> not have time to mess with this much more. Thanks for input to date guys.
> Jeep guys are cool and I regret moving to a Land Cruiser but I have bad
> pains in my neck and need cover and warmth in my old age.
>
> Regarding the spell check menu the drop down box is there but its only entry
> in French?
>
> Mike
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45cf30cf$0$22701$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>> I don't know if this applies, but it is worth checking out.
>>
>> I suspect the unit is seized in the rich position which makes for no
>> vacuum holding according to the book.
>>
>> Jeep carb parts like the chokes and other brass rods have a tendency to
>> corrode where the brass goes through the white metal the case pieces are
>> made out of. This can be fixed by spraying with copious amounts of carb
>> cleaner or a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster, letting them soak, then
>> working them gently with a pair if vise grips to break them free.
>>
>> This happens a 'lot' on the 80's carbs I see and repair. If you can make
>> the part move by hand already, then ignore this, but if it is seized, this
>> might fix it.
>>
>> You will not likely be able to make it run with the wrong needle and seat
>> though, it's not just thread size.... You might have to buy another
>> kit....
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>> See nothing move not hear any noise. But I got bigger problems. The
>>> needle and seat in the kit is quite different from in my carb and I think
>>> I threw the old needleaway! The only way I can now see to get it back
>>> together is to retap the hole or re thread the seat. Things are real
>>> tight right now and I was hoping to sell the CJ5 to see me throiugh a
>>> while. If I had the cash I'd just buy a new carb. (Thinks???) Maybe I get
>>> my wife to sell her bug. AND now as I proof this message I see my Outlook
>>> Express has a Foreign spell checker. Just for fun after I send this post
>>> I'll send you the corrected by Outlook!
>>>
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:45ce7af5$0$3314$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> One other thing came to mind, does it move when you put the power to it?
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> We have basically no snow at all here in Southern Ontario. I was up
>>>>> north a couple weeks ago and they had very little too. Barely enough
>>>>> to run a sled on.
>>>>>
>>>>> Too bad about the blown part. I think I would look for a used carb for
>>>>> parts. Maybe someone upgraded and has the old one kicking around?
>>>>> There are two Rochester E2SE carbs for sale on ebay for $75 each....
>>>>>
>>>>> I doubt it would pass the smog, but how does it run like that?
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>>
>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>> Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year?
>>>>>> I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it
>>>>>> holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>>>> Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any
>>>>>>> vacuum....
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>>>> That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and
>>>>>>>> it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5
>>>>>>>> seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> MStevens003 wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester
>>>>>>>>> E2SE and
>>>>>>>>> my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My
>>>>>>>>> delema is that
>>>>>>>>> I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other
>>>>>>>>> problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might
>>>>>>>>> adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the
>>>>>>>>> $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back
>>>>>>>>> and hope
>>>>>>>>> it runs OK and passes California smog?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or
>>>>>>>>> are there any cheaper or better alternatives?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Mike Stevens
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>