Mercedes Diesel in CJ
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mercedes Diesel in CJ
> Neither Novak nor Advance Adapters make an adapter for that combination
(not
> very surprisingly).
So use the trans and transfer out of a Gelandewagon, and then you only have
to build custom driveshafts. Kind of expensive though.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
(not
> very surprisingly).
So use the trans and transfer out of a Gelandewagon, and then you only have
to build custom driveshafts. Kind of expensive though.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mercedes Diesel in CJ
> Neither Novak nor Advance Adapters make an adapter for that combination
(not
> very surprisingly).
So use the trans and transfer out of a Gelandewagon, and then you only have
to build custom driveshafts. Kind of expensive though.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
(not
> very surprisingly).
So use the trans and transfer out of a Gelandewagon, and then you only have
to build custom driveshafts. Kind of expensive though.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mercedes Diesel in CJ
> Neither Novak nor Advance Adapters make an adapter for that combination
(not
> very surprisingly).
So use the trans and transfer out of a Gelandewagon, and then you only have
to build custom driveshafts. Kind of expensive though.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
(not
> very surprisingly).
So use the trans and transfer out of a Gelandewagon, and then you only have
to build custom driveshafts. Kind of expensive though.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mercedes Diesel in CJ
Oh boy, the peckerwood patrol's out tonight!
The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mercedes Diesel in CJ
Oh boy, the peckerwood patrol's out tonight!
The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mercedes Diesel in CJ
Oh boy, the peckerwood patrol's out tonight!
The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mercedes Diesel in CJ
Oh boy, the peckerwood patrol's out tonight!
The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mercedes Diesel in CJ
If the sump is on the front more than likely that's where the pump
is, that can't be moved, if you've ever done a conversion you'd know
this.
"While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than
the equivalent gas horsepower" Ted, did you just fall out of a tree: As
long as you're bull Sh*tting about benz, can you find one of their
Diesels to compare this Mercedes:
http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/m_slrmclaren.asp
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Ted Azito wrote:
>
> Oh boy, the peckerwood patrol's out tonight!
>
> The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
> usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
> with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
> diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
> Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
> have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
> as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
> unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
>
> The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
> pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
> sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
> a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
> don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
> possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
> for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
> auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
> Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
>
> While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
> equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
> revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
> Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
> 4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
> driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
> Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
> as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
> It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
> you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
> be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
> which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
> that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
>
> These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
> impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
> to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
> and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
> pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
> hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
> OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
> for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
> plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
> naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
> lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
> turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
>
> The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
> polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
> pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
> alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
> most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
> compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
>
> A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
> your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
> oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
is, that can't be moved, if you've ever done a conversion you'd know
this.
"While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than
the equivalent gas horsepower" Ted, did you just fall out of a tree: As
long as you're bull Sh*tting about benz, can you find one of their
Diesels to compare this Mercedes:
http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/m_slrmclaren.asp
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Ted Azito wrote:
>
> Oh boy, the peckerwood patrol's out tonight!
>
> The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
> usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
> with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
> diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
> Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
> have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
> as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
> unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
>
> The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
> pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
> sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
> a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
> don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
> possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
> for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
> auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
> Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
>
> While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
> equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
> revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
> Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
> 4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
> driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
> Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
> as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
> It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
> you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
> be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
> which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
> that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
>
> These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
> impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
> to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
> and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
> pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
> hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
> OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
> for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
> plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
> naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
> lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
> turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
>
> The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
> polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
> pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
> alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
> most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
> compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
>
> A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
> your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
> oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mercedes Diesel in CJ
If the sump is on the front more than likely that's where the pump
is, that can't be moved, if you've ever done a conversion you'd know
this.
"While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than
the equivalent gas horsepower" Ted, did you just fall out of a tree: As
long as you're bull Sh*tting about benz, can you find one of their
Diesels to compare this Mercedes:
http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/m_slrmclaren.asp
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Ted Azito wrote:
>
> Oh boy, the peckerwood patrol's out tonight!
>
> The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
> usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
> with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
> diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
> Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
> have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
> as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
> unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
>
> The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
> pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
> sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
> a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
> don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
> possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
> for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
> auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
> Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
>
> While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
> equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
> revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
> Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
> 4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
> driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
> Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
> as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
> It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
> you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
> be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
> which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
> that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
>
> These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
> impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
> to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
> and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
> pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
> hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
> OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
> for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
> plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
> naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
> lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
> turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
>
> The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
> polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
> pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
> alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
> most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
> compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
>
> A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
> your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
> oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
is, that can't be moved, if you've ever done a conversion you'd know
this.
"While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than
the equivalent gas horsepower" Ted, did you just fall out of a tree: As
long as you're bull Sh*tting about benz, can you find one of their
Diesels to compare this Mercedes:
http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/m_slrmclaren.asp
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Ted Azito wrote:
>
> Oh boy, the peckerwood patrol's out tonight!
>
> The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
> usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
> with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
> diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
> Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
> have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
> as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
> unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
>
> The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
> pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
> sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
> a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
> don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
> possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
> for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
> auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
> Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
>
> While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
> equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
> revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
> Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
> 4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
> driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
> Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
> as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
> It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
> you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
> be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
> which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
> that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
>
> These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
> impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
> to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
> and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
> pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
> hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
> OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
> for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
> plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
> naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
> lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
> turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
>
> The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
> polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
> pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
> alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
> most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
> compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
>
> A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
> your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
> oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mercedes Diesel in CJ
If the sump is on the front more than likely that's where the pump
is, that can't be moved, if you've ever done a conversion you'd know
this.
"While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than
the equivalent gas horsepower" Ted, did you just fall out of a tree: As
long as you're bull Sh*tting about benz, can you find one of their
Diesels to compare this Mercedes:
http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/m_slrmclaren.asp
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Ted Azito wrote:
>
> Oh boy, the peckerwood patrol's out tonight!
>
> The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
> usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
> with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
> diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
> Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
> have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
> as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
> unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
>
> The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
> pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
> sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
> a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
> don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
> possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
> for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
> auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
> Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
>
> While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
> equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
> revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
> Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
> 4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
> driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
> Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
> as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
> It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
> you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
> be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
> which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
> that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
>
> These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
> impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
> to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
> and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
> pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
> hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
> OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
> for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
> plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
> naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
> lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
> turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
>
> The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
> polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
> pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
> alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
> most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
> compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
>
> A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
> your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
> oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.
is, that can't be moved, if you've ever done a conversion you'd know
this.
"While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than
the equivalent gas horsepower" Ted, did you just fall out of a tree: As
long as you're bull Sh*tting about benz, can you find one of their
Diesels to compare this Mercedes:
http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/m_slrmclaren.asp
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Ted Azito wrote:
>
> Oh boy, the peckerwood patrol's out tonight!
>
> The five cylinder Benz engine-OM 617-is a really good engine that
> usually outlasts the chassis it comes in by a wide margin, in states
> with salt on their roads. Parts are comparable to any popular Japanese
> diesel or Deutz-high but not freakish. It's fully mechanical and has a
> Bosch cam style jerk pump. Some have a hydraulic pump drive you'll
> have to fab a blockoff plate for or find a creative use for. As long
> as you understand what it's power and torque curves are and don't have
> unrealistic expectations you will be a happy camper.
>
> The oil sump is in the front, and no, there are no alternate factory
> pans. You will have to fabricate a suitable pan for Jeep use or go dry
> sump, which will add cost and vulnerability. You will have to make up
> a suitable bellhousing and retain the Jeep trans and transfer case, I
> don't think you want a slushbox, but if you do it would probably be
> possible to adapt a 700R4. The Benz manual may not be suitable at all
> for the Jeep and the tailshaft area would need rework.Ditto the Benz
> auto, plus, while reliable in the car, it's heinously high to rebuild.
> Some cars are scrapped with good engines for that alone.
>
> While diesel horsepower is always more powerful in real life than the
> equivalent gas horsepower, the difference with the Benz or other high
> revving auto engines is going to be less than if you went with the
> Cummins or other commercial diesel engine. The Benz is redlined at
> 4500 and the B series Cumminses at, what, 2200? 2300? If your
> driveline will handle a big block, it will handle a four cylinder
> Cummins, but if it won't it won't. The Benz would probably be viewed
> as a diesel replacement for the inline six in stock, or close, trim.
> It would be fine in a TJ or YJ if you get past the sump problem. If
> you can talk someone into tooling up an oil pan and pickup, it should
> be a pretty good swap. I would dig up a copy of Paul Dempsey's book
> which was discussed here a while back. It's a very good book, and
> that's unusual with McGraw-Hill-TAB-G/L titles which usually suck.
>
> These engines are in excellent supply because the cars die from rot,
> impacts, or driveline failure more than the engines. Some are exported
> to South America or the PI-I'll bet someone there has solved the sump
> and bellhousing issues if you can find them-most go to the scrap iron
> pile. If you want to learn something, getting a core engine for a
> hundred bucks or so and going through it would be fun. Major
> OH-machinework is rarely needed because they're sleeved-can be done
> for about $2500 plus pump service. But getting a used engine with
> plenty of life left should cost $1000 if you shop around. There is a
> naturally aspirated version, but the turbo is much more common, has a
> lot more power, and better mileage. I don't know but I think the stock
> turbo plumbing can be left alone unmolested in a Jeep, I'd guess.
>
> The Benz engine also looks cool. The big aluminum cam cover will
> polish up nicely or can be anodized, even engraved. The long Bosch
> pump can be tricked out too. I would definitely put an American
> alternator on, though, because the Bosch units aren't very good, but
> most Benzes of that era already run the York air conditioning
> compressor Jeeps turn into air compressors.
>
> A few people will stick their noses up at this, but are they paying
> your gas bills? No! Strike a patriotic blow for independence from Arab
> oil and keep your Jeep in the fine DCX family with this swap.