Can you blow through the plastic tube that goes to the back of the valve
cover?

You can email me the photo of the back spark plug and I can post it on
alt.binaries.pictures.autos.4x4 and over on my photo album site.

It sounds like a compression test might be in order. You also can
remove the oil filler cap and watch for puffs of smoke coming out of
there which could indicate a bad valve guide, likely on #6....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

sc00ter wrote:
>
> I did do that, I took off the cover (valve) and took the baffles off,
> cleaned them and resealed them and the valve cover is sealed now. I
> guess I am not clear on the orifices, the tubes from my valve cover go
> as follows, the front one goes to the air box and the rear one goes to
> the intake manifold to a nipple that I cleaned out by removing it and I
> could see straight into the manifold so that isnt clogged. I am not
> getting any smoke at all in the exhaust. I am baffled.
>
> Jeremy
> skylog@msn.com
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> > Second that deep crud idea, Bill. Fiend had an 87 that would fill a
> > quart jar - he got PO'd and pulled the breather hose off the air box
> > and wired it into the jar when he couldn't find any other solution.
> > We took the valve cover off and removed the baffle plates under the
> > two hole in the cover. Had enough crud under there that it took a
> > chisel to get it all out. Cleaned that whole area with some old bore
> > brushes, replaced the baffles, sealed up the valve cover (any bets
> > that the OP didn't get the surfaces clean before he tried?) and his
> > problem pretty much disappeared. No way to get to the problem from
> > the outside, BTW.
> >
> > On Sun, 5 Feb 2006 04:01:52 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> > <----------@***.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Did you poke around under where orifices out, I don't have any
> > > experience with your XJ, but Fords clog deep in the adapter plate. Test
> > > to see if it still runs without the orifices indicating it is. Because
> > > that's the only place designed to get rid of the blow-by that's plowing
> > > into your air cleaner box. If that doesn't work it's rebuilding time.
> > > Valve seals are more like an umbrella to keep the splashing oil from
> > > dribbling down the stem and causing a little smoke at start up time.
> > > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > sc00ter wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I like the convert it idea, problem the pic is not what I have. I am
> > > > also seeming to have some difficulty with this because my Cherokee is a
> > > > 93 and has the newer style ccv system. All of the orifices into the
> > > > intake manifold are clean ( I took them out and cleaned them though
> > > > there was no build up) as far a a leaking valve seal, what do I do
> > > > about that. I am about to pull out what hair I have left. I don't want
> > > > my Jeep to die!!!!! I replaced all the lines to and from the valve
> > > > cover, I sealed it all up nice and good, I cleaned the TB real REAL
> > > > good and I changed the plugs and even the oil I even used all MOPAR
> > > > parts just as a precaution. I diid notice that my plug from the
> > > > cylinder way in the back #6 I believe was really black and cruddy but I
> > > > figured that was from the oil leaking down onto it from the valve cover
> > > > but the others were relatively clean. Let me know and I will email a
> > > > pic of the spark plug.
> > > >
> > > > Jeremy
> >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea

 

Can you blow through the plastic tube that goes to the back of the valve
cover?

You can email me the photo of the back spark plug and I can post it on
alt.binaries.pictures.autos.4x4 and over on my photo album site.

It sounds like a compression test might be in order. You also can
remove the oil filler cap and watch for puffs of smoke coming out of
there which could indicate a bad valve guide, likely on #6....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

sc00ter wrote:
>
> I did do that, I took off the cover (valve) and took the baffles off,
> cleaned them and resealed them and the valve cover is sealed now. I
> guess I am not clear on the orifices, the tubes from my valve cover go
> as follows, the front one goes to the air box and the rear one goes to
> the intake manifold to a nipple that I cleaned out by removing it and I
> could see straight into the manifold so that isnt clogged. I am not
> getting any smoke at all in the exhaust. I am baffled.
>
> Jeremy
> skylog@msn.com
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> > Second that deep crud idea, Bill. Fiend had an 87 that would fill a
> > quart jar - he got PO'd and pulled the breather hose off the air box
> > and wired it into the jar when he couldn't find any other solution.
> > We took the valve cover off and removed the baffle plates under the
> > two hole in the cover. Had enough crud under there that it took a
> > chisel to get it all out. Cleaned that whole area with some old bore
> > brushes, replaced the baffles, sealed up the valve cover (any bets
> > that the OP didn't get the surfaces clean before he tried?) and his
> > problem pretty much disappeared. No way to get to the problem from
> > the outside, BTW.
> >
> > On Sun, 5 Feb 2006 04:01:52 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> > <----------@***.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Did you poke around under where orifices out, I don't have any
> > > experience with your XJ, but Fords clog deep in the adapter plate. Test
> > > to see if it still runs without the orifices indicating it is. Because
> > > that's the only place designed to get rid of the blow-by that's plowing
> > > into your air cleaner box. If that doesn't work it's rebuilding time.
> > > Valve seals are more like an umbrella to keep the splashing oil from
> > > dribbling down the stem and causing a little smoke at start up time.
> > > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > sc00ter wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I like the convert it idea, problem the pic is not what I have. I am
> > > > also seeming to have some difficulty with this because my Cherokee is a
> > > > 93 and has the newer style ccv system. All of the orifices into the
> > > > intake manifold are clean ( I took them out and cleaned them though
> > > > there was no build up) as far a a leaking valve seal, what do I do
> > > > about that. I am about to pull out what hair I have left. I don't want
> > > > my Jeep to die!!!!! I replaced all the lines to and from the valve
> > > > cover, I sealed it all up nice and good, I cleaned the TB real REAL
> > > > good and I changed the plugs and even the oil I even used all MOPAR
> > > > parts just as a precaution. I diid notice that my plug from the
> > > > cylinder way in the back #6 I believe was really black and cruddy but I
> > > > figured that was from the oil leaking down onto it from the valve cover
> > > > but the others were relatively clean. Let me know and I will email a
> > > > pic of the spark plug.
> > > >
> > > > Jeremy
> >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea

 

Can you blow through the plastic tube that goes to the back of the valve
cover?

You can email me the photo of the back spark plug and I can post it on
alt.binaries.pictures.autos.4x4 and over on my photo album site.

It sounds like a compression test might be in order. You also can
remove the oil filler cap and watch for puffs of smoke coming out of
there which could indicate a bad valve guide, likely on #6....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

sc00ter wrote:
>
> I did do that, I took off the cover (valve) and took the baffles off,
> cleaned them and resealed them and the valve cover is sealed now. I
> guess I am not clear on the orifices, the tubes from my valve cover go
> as follows, the front one goes to the air box and the rear one goes to
> the intake manifold to a nipple that I cleaned out by removing it and I
> could see straight into the manifold so that isnt clogged. I am not
> getting any smoke at all in the exhaust. I am baffled.
>
> Jeremy
> skylog@msn.com
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> > Second that deep crud idea, Bill. Fiend had an 87 that would fill a
> > quart jar - he got PO'd and pulled the breather hose off the air box
> > and wired it into the jar when he couldn't find any other solution.
> > We took the valve cover off and removed the baffle plates under the
> > two hole in the cover. Had enough crud under there that it took a
> > chisel to get it all out. Cleaned that whole area with some old bore
> > brushes, replaced the baffles, sealed up the valve cover (any bets
> > that the OP didn't get the surfaces clean before he tried?) and his
> > problem pretty much disappeared. No way to get to the problem from
> > the outside, BTW.
> >
> > On Sun, 5 Feb 2006 04:01:52 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> > <----------@***.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Did you poke around under where orifices out, I don't have any
> > > experience with your XJ, but Fords clog deep in the adapter plate. Test
> > > to see if it still runs without the orifices indicating it is. Because
> > > that's the only place designed to get rid of the blow-by that's plowing
> > > into your air cleaner box. If that doesn't work it's rebuilding time.
> > > Valve seals are more like an umbrella to keep the splashing oil from
> > > dribbling down the stem and causing a little smoke at start up time.
> > > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > sc00ter wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I like the convert it idea, problem the pic is not what I have. I am
> > > > also seeming to have some difficulty with this because my Cherokee is a
> > > > 93 and has the newer style ccv system. All of the orifices into the
> > > > intake manifold are clean ( I took them out and cleaned them though
> > > > there was no build up) as far a a leaking valve seal, what do I do
> > > > about that. I am about to pull out what hair I have left. I don't want
> > > > my Jeep to die!!!!! I replaced all the lines to and from the valve
> > > > cover, I sealed it all up nice and good, I cleaned the TB real REAL
> > > > good and I changed the plugs and even the oil I even used all MOPAR
> > > > parts just as a precaution. I diid notice that my plug from the
> > > > cylinder way in the back #6 I believe was really black and cruddy but I
> > > > figured that was from the oil leaking down onto it from the valve cover
> > > > but the others were relatively clean. Let me know and I will email a
> > > > pic of the spark plug.
> > > >
> > > > Jeremy
> >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea

 

I think I have the problem narrowed down to the #6 cylinder. It may
have a leaky valve guide seal in as there is no smoke comming out of
the exhaust but there is smoke comming out of the oil cap hole (when I
remove the cap)

 

I think I have the problem narrowed down to the #6 cylinder. It may
have a leaky valve guide seal in as there is no smoke comming out of
the exhaust but there is smoke comming out of the oil cap hole (when I
remove the cap)

 

I think I have the problem narrowed down to the #6 cylinder. It may
have a leaky valve guide seal in as there is no smoke comming out of
the exhaust but there is smoke comming out of the oil cap hole (when I
remove the cap)

 

sc00ter did pass the time by typing:
> I think I have the problem narrowed down to the #6 cylinder. It may
> have a leaky valve guide seal in as there is no smoke comming out of
> the exhaust but there is smoke comming out of the oil cap hole (when I
> remove the cap)

Smoke out the fill hole is a sure sign you have damaged valve seals/guides.
They can be replaced without removing the head, but you need an air compressor
or a few feet of rope to fill the cyl so the valve doesn't drop in.

--
DougW

 

sc00ter did pass the time by typing:
> I think I have the problem narrowed down to the #6 cylinder. It may
> have a leaky valve guide seal in as there is no smoke comming out of
> the exhaust but there is smoke comming out of the oil cap hole (when I
> remove the cap)

Smoke out the fill hole is a sure sign you have damaged valve seals/guides.
They can be replaced without removing the head, but you need an air compressor
or a few feet of rope to fill the cyl so the valve doesn't drop in.

--
DougW

 

sc00ter did pass the time by typing:
> I think I have the problem narrowed down to the #6 cylinder. It may
> have a leaky valve guide seal in as there is no smoke comming out of
> the exhaust but there is smoke comming out of the oil cap hole (when I
> remove the cap)

Smoke out the fill hole is a sure sign you have damaged valve seals/guides.
They can be replaced without removing the head, but you need an air compressor
or a few feet of rope to fill the cyl so the valve doesn't drop in.

--
DougW

 

thats what I thought, but everyone I have contacted around here says
there wouldnt be smoke from bad valve seals. So how much would that
normally cost in as I do not posess the tools and may be able to figure
it out but more efficient for me to have someone else do it.