I live in Canada....

The best is to clean all the linkages up with a solvent/cleaner/water
displacer like WD40, then to use white lithium grease. It now comes in
a spray so it can get into all the little parts.

The best for the tumbler is bone dry and clean. I first use WD40 (a
water displacement fluid used to dry things like locks and ignition
wires and distributor cap innards) on the tumbler guts, then I use lock
de-icer spray after the WD40 has dried up. The de-icer spray is an
alcohol base that leaves the lock guts nice and dry and clean.

I have seen folks use graphite in the lock, but it is very messy and
still attracts dirt. Dry is best.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"Stephen R. Conrad" wrote:
>
> Thanks for the replies. I should have made it clear that this is a street
> only vehicle. It is not garaged. It is not only the lock innards that need
> to be lubed but also apparently all the inner door handle linkages and pivot
> points. Is there something about the contstruction of this vehicle that
> makes it more prone to freeze ups? And I was also mistaken about the origin
> of the Boeshield T9 product. It was originally developed by Boeing as an
> aircraft lubricant. I have purchased it in marine stores, however. My
> concern about using WD40 is possible detrimental effects on plastic/rubber
> parts.
>
> "Stephen R. Conrad" <sconradpt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:391dupF5r1phsU1@individual.net...
> > The doors on my 92 XJ freeze up more than any other vehicle I've owned. I
> > guess I'll have to pull the inner panels and lubricate the latch and lock
> > linkages when the weather warms up. What is the best lube for this job.
> > I've got some T-9 around here somwhere. It's a liquid or spray water
> > displacement marine product that turns waxxy as it dries. Would this work?
> >

 

I live in Canada....

The best is to clean all the linkages up with a solvent/cleaner/water
displacer like WD40, then to use white lithium grease. It now comes in
a spray so it can get into all the little parts.

The best for the tumbler is bone dry and clean. I first use WD40 (a
water displacement fluid used to dry things like locks and ignition
wires and distributor cap innards) on the tumbler guts, then I use lock
de-icer spray after the WD40 has dried up. The de-icer spray is an
alcohol base that leaves the lock guts nice and dry and clean.

I have seen folks use graphite in the lock, but it is very messy and
still attracts dirt. Dry is best.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"Stephen R. Conrad" wrote:
>
> Thanks for the replies. I should have made it clear that this is a street
> only vehicle. It is not garaged. It is not only the lock innards that need
> to be lubed but also apparently all the inner door handle linkages and pivot
> points. Is there something about the contstruction of this vehicle that
> makes it more prone to freeze ups? And I was also mistaken about the origin
> of the Boeshield T9 product. It was originally developed by Boeing as an
> aircraft lubricant. I have purchased it in marine stores, however. My
> concern about using WD40 is possible detrimental effects on plastic/rubber
> parts.
>
> "Stephen R. Conrad" <sconradpt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:391dupF5r1phsU1@individual.net...
> > The doors on my 92 XJ freeze up more than any other vehicle I've owned. I
> > guess I'll have to pull the inner panels and lubricate the latch and lock
> > linkages when the weather warms up. What is the best lube for this job.
> > I've got some T-9 around here somwhere. It's a liquid or spray water
> > displacement marine product that turns waxxy as it dries. Would this work?
> >

 

I live in Canada....

The best is to clean all the linkages up with a solvent/cleaner/water
displacer like WD40, then to use white lithium grease. It now comes in
a spray so it can get into all the little parts.

The best for the tumbler is bone dry and clean. I first use WD40 (a
water displacement fluid used to dry things like locks and ignition
wires and distributor cap innards) on the tumbler guts, then I use lock
de-icer spray after the WD40 has dried up. The de-icer spray is an
alcohol base that leaves the lock guts nice and dry and clean.

I have seen folks use graphite in the lock, but it is very messy and
still attracts dirt. Dry is best.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"Stephen R. Conrad" wrote:
>
> Thanks for the replies. I should have made it clear that this is a street
> only vehicle. It is not garaged. It is not only the lock innards that need
> to be lubed but also apparently all the inner door handle linkages and pivot
> points. Is there something about the contstruction of this vehicle that
> makes it more prone to freeze ups? And I was also mistaken about the origin
> of the Boeshield T9 product. It was originally developed by Boeing as an
> aircraft lubricant. I have purchased it in marine stores, however. My
> concern about using WD40 is possible detrimental effects on plastic/rubber
> parts.
>
> "Stephen R. Conrad" <sconradpt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:391dupF5r1phsU1@individual.net...
> > The doors on my 92 XJ freeze up more than any other vehicle I've owned. I
> > guess I'll have to pull the inner panels and lubricate the latch and lock
> > linkages when the weather warms up. What is the best lube for this job.
> > I've got some T-9 around here somwhere. It's a liquid or spray water
> > displacement marine product that turns waxxy as it dries. Would this work?
> >