Locker abuse
05-31-2005, 09:28 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Locker abuse
Hi Jeff,
There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All
the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing:
http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.
There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All
the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing:
http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.
06-01-2005, 08:40 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Locker abuse
Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even
the YJ D30 has inboard seals.
The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is
fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be
tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The
YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals.
Mike
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> > putting the axles back in.
> >
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.
>
> > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> > SOB to come off first time.
> >
>
> It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.
>
> > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> > because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > TrailMarker wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > > the weak link.
> > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > > have.
> > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > > He says
> > >
> > > "Remove the hub locks.
> > > Remove the brake rotors.
> > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > > hubs off.
> > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > > spindles off.
> > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > > Assemble in reverse order.
> > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > > spindles are tight.
> > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > > disguised locking device; use it.
> > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> > >
> > > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > > TrailMarker.
the YJ D30 has inboard seals.
The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is
fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be
tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The
YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals.
Mike
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> > putting the axles back in.
> >
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.
>
> > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> > SOB to come off first time.
> >
>
> It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.
>
> > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> > because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > TrailMarker wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > > the weak link.
> > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > > have.
> > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > > He says
> > >
> > > "Remove the hub locks.
> > > Remove the brake rotors.
> > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > > hubs off.
> > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > > spindles off.
> > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > > Assemble in reverse order.
> > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > > spindles are tight.
> > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > > disguised locking device; use it.
> > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> > >
> > > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > > TrailMarker.
06-01-2005, 08:40 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Locker abuse
Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even
the YJ D30 has inboard seals.
The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is
fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be
tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The
YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals.
Mike
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> > putting the axles back in.
> >
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.
>
> > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> > SOB to come off first time.
> >
>
> It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.
>
> > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> > because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > TrailMarker wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > > the weak link.
> > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > > have.
> > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > > He says
> > >
> > > "Remove the hub locks.
> > > Remove the brake rotors.
> > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > > hubs off.
> > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > > spindles off.
> > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > > Assemble in reverse order.
> > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > > spindles are tight.
> > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > > disguised locking device; use it.
> > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> > >
> > > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > > TrailMarker.
the YJ D30 has inboard seals.
The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is
fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be
tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The
YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals.
Mike
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> > putting the axles back in.
> >
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.
>
> > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> > SOB to come off first time.
> >
>
> It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.
>
> > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> > because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > TrailMarker wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > > the weak link.
> > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > > have.
> > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > > He says
> > >
> > > "Remove the hub locks.
> > > Remove the brake rotors.
> > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > > hubs off.
> > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > > spindles off.
> > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > > Assemble in reverse order.
> > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > > spindles are tight.
> > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > > disguised locking device; use it.
> > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> > >
> > > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > > TrailMarker.
06-01-2005, 08:40 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Locker abuse
Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even
the YJ D30 has inboard seals.
The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is
fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be
tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The
YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals.
Mike
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> > putting the axles back in.
> >
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.
>
> > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> > SOB to come off first time.
> >
>
> It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.
>
> > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> > because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > TrailMarker wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > > the weak link.
> > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > > have.
> > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > > He says
> > >
> > > "Remove the hub locks.
> > > Remove the brake rotors.
> > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > > hubs off.
> > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > > spindles off.
> > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > > Assemble in reverse order.
> > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > > spindles are tight.
> > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > > disguised locking device; use it.
> > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> > >
> > > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > > TrailMarker.
the YJ D30 has inboard seals.
The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is
fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be
tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The
YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals.
Mike
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> > putting the axles back in.
> >
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.
>
> > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> > SOB to come off first time.
> >
>
> It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.
>
> > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> > because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > TrailMarker wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > > the weak link.
> > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > > have.
> > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > > He says
> > >
> > > "Remove the hub locks.
> > > Remove the brake rotors.
> > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > > hubs off.
> > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > > spindles off.
> > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > > Assemble in reverse order.
> > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > > spindles are tight.
> > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > > disguised locking device; use it.
> > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> > >
> > > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > > TrailMarker.
06-01-2005, 08:40 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Locker abuse
Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even
the YJ D30 has inboard seals.
The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is
fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be
tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The
YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals.
Mike
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> > putting the axles back in.
> >
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.
>
> > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> > SOB to come off first time.
> >
>
> It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.
>
> > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> > because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > TrailMarker wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > > the weak link.
> > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > > have.
> > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > > He says
> > >
> > > "Remove the hub locks.
> > > Remove the brake rotors.
> > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > > hubs off.
> > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > > spindles off.
> > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > > Assemble in reverse order.
> > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > > spindles are tight.
> > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > > disguised locking device; use it.
> > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> > >
> > > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > > TrailMarker.
the YJ D30 has inboard seals.
The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is
fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be
tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The
YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals.
Mike
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> > putting the axles back in.
> >
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.
>
> > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> > SOB to come off first time.
> >
>
> It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.
>
> > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> > because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > TrailMarker wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > > the weak link.
> > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > > have.
> > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > > He says
> > >
> > > "Remove the hub locks.
> > > Remove the brake rotors.
> > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > > hubs off.
> > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > > spindles off.
> > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > > Assemble in reverse order.
> > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > > spindles are tight.
> > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > > disguised locking device; use it.
> > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> > >
> > > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > > TrailMarker.
06-01-2005, 11:10 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> putting the axles back in.
>
> I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> SOB to come off first time.
There's a trick, using power steering and
a strategically-placed socket (or other
piece of metal)... wedge something hard
in there, then turn the steering... pops the
hub assy right out.
Caveat... mine came out easy, I didn't ever
actually do this procedure... they went
back in with anti-seize, hopefully I'll
never have to find out if this works!
__
Steve
..
06-01-2005, 11:10 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> putting the axles back in.
>
> I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> SOB to come off first time.
There's a trick, using power steering and
a strategically-placed socket (or other
piece of metal)... wedge something hard
in there, then turn the steering... pops the
hub assy right out.
Caveat... mine came out easy, I didn't ever
actually do this procedure... they went
back in with anti-seize, hopefully I'll
never have to find out if this works!
__
Steve
..
06-01-2005, 11:10 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> putting the axles back in.
>
> I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> SOB to come off first time.
There's a trick, using power steering and
a strategically-placed socket (or other
piece of metal)... wedge something hard
in there, then turn the steering... pops the
hub assy right out.
Caveat... mine came out easy, I didn't ever
actually do this procedure... they went
back in with anti-seize, hopefully I'll
never have to find out if this works!
__
Steve
..
06-01-2005, 11:10 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> putting the axles back in.
>
> I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> SOB to come off first time.
There's a trick, using power steering and
a strategically-placed socket (or other
piece of metal)... wedge something hard
in there, then turn the steering... pops the
hub assy right out.
Caveat... mine came out easy, I didn't ever
actually do this procedure... they went
back in with anti-seize, hopefully I'll
never have to find out if this works!
__
Steve
..
06-01-2005, 04:08 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Locker abuse
Thank you Captain BesideThePoint. The OP was asking specifically about an 85
CJ, there is an outer seal on the hub, where the hub and spindle meet.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:429D0F4B.8CFEC25B@***.net...
> Hi Jeff,
> There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All
> the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing:
> http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >
> > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> > seals when I wrote that procedure.
CJ, there is an outer seal on the hub, where the hub and spindle meet.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:429D0F4B.8CFEC25B@***.net...
> Hi Jeff,
> There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All
> the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing:
> http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >
> > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> > seals when I wrote that procedure.