TrailMarker

Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
the weak link.
I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
have.
I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
He says

"Remove the hub locks.
Remove the brake rotors.
Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
hubs off.
Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
spindles off.
Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
Assemble in reverse order.
Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
spindles are tight.
Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
disguised locking device; use it.
Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."

Is there anything else I need to know?
And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
TrailMarker.

Mike Romain

The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
putting the axles back in.

I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
SOB to come off first time.

I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
because they can't be greased so got water contamination.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

TrailMarker wrote:
>
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.
> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>
> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.

Mike Romain

The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
putting the axles back in.

I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
SOB to come off first time.

I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
because they can't be greased so got water contamination.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

TrailMarker wrote:
>
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.
> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>
> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.

Mike Romain

The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
putting the axles back in.

I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
SOB to come off first time.

I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
because they can't be greased so got water contamination.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

TrailMarker wrote:
>
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.
> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>
> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.

Mike Romain

The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
putting the axles back in.

I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
SOB to come off first time.

I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
because they can't be greased so got water contamination.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

TrailMarker wrote:
>
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.
> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>
> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.

Jerry Bransford

Go directly to http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.shtml then click on
Index of Mods & Writeups, then click on "Axleshaft U-Joint Replacement".
There is no better single source of Jeep help than Stu's website.

The only additional thing I can suggest is replacing your D30's
axleshafts with hardened axleshafts like the chromolly 4340 axleshafts
from Warn, Alloy USA, or Superior Axle. Those are what will do more to
prevent u-joint failures than anything else other than going to some
uber-strong/expensive u-joint like CTM makes. These axleshafts have
heat-treated hardened ears that hang onto the u-joints FAR more securly
under stress so they don't break free and then break, taking everything
with it. What few people understand is that it's more likely that the
axleshaft ears have let go of the u-joint which caused the failure, than
the u-joint itself failing first which is extremely rare.

Jerry

TrailMarker wrote:
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.
> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>
> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Jerry Bransford

Go directly to http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.shtml then click on
Index of Mods & Writeups, then click on "Axleshaft U-Joint Replacement".
There is no better single source of Jeep help than Stu's website.

The only additional thing I can suggest is replacing your D30's
axleshafts with hardened axleshafts like the chromolly 4340 axleshafts
from Warn, Alloy USA, or Superior Axle. Those are what will do more to
prevent u-joint failures than anything else other than going to some
uber-strong/expensive u-joint like CTM makes. These axleshafts have
heat-treated hardened ears that hang onto the u-joints FAR more securly
under stress so they don't break free and then break, taking everything
with it. What few people understand is that it's more likely that the
axleshaft ears have let go of the u-joint which caused the failure, than
the u-joint itself failing first which is extremely rare.

Jerry

TrailMarker wrote:
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.
> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>
> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Jerry Bransford

Go directly to http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.shtml then click on
Index of Mods & Writeups, then click on "Axleshaft U-Joint Replacement".
There is no better single source of Jeep help than Stu's website.

The only additional thing I can suggest is replacing your D30's
axleshafts with hardened axleshafts like the chromolly 4340 axleshafts
from Warn, Alloy USA, or Superior Axle. Those are what will do more to
prevent u-joint failures than anything else other than going to some
uber-strong/expensive u-joint like CTM makes. These axleshafts have
heat-treated hardened ears that hang onto the u-joints FAR more securly
under stress so they don't break free and then break, taking everything
with it. What few people understand is that it's more likely that the
axleshaft ears have let go of the u-joint which caused the failure, than
the u-joint itself failing first which is extremely rare.

Jerry

TrailMarker wrote:
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.
> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>
> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Jerry Bransford

Go directly to http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.shtml then click on
Index of Mods & Writeups, then click on "Axleshaft U-Joint Replacement".
There is no better single source of Jeep help than Stu's website.

The only additional thing I can suggest is replacing your D30's
axleshafts with hardened axleshafts like the chromolly 4340 axleshafts
from Warn, Alloy USA, or Superior Axle. Those are what will do more to
prevent u-joint failures than anything else other than going to some
uber-strong/expensive u-joint like CTM makes. These axleshafts have
heat-treated hardened ears that hang onto the u-joints FAR more securly
under stress so they don't break free and then break, taking everything
with it. What few people understand is that it's more likely that the
axleshaft ears have let go of the u-joint which caused the failure, than
the u-joint itself failing first which is extremely rare.

Jerry

TrailMarker wrote:
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.
> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>
> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Jeff Strickland

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> putting the axles back in.
>

There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
seals when I wrote that procedure.



> I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> SOB to come off first time.
>

It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.




> I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> TrailMarker wrote:
> >
> > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > the weak link.
> > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > have.
> > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > He says
> >
> > "Remove the hub locks.
> > Remove the brake rotors.
> > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > hubs off.
> > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > spindles off.
> > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > Assemble in reverse order.
> > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > spindles are tight.
> > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > disguised locking device; use it.
> > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> >
> > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > TrailMarker.