Jeff Strickland

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> putting the axles back in.
>

There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
seals when I wrote that procedure.



> I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> SOB to come off first time.
>

It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.




> I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> TrailMarker wrote:
> >
> > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > the weak link.
> > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > have.
> > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > He says
> >
> > "Remove the hub locks.
> > Remove the brake rotors.
> > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > hubs off.
> > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > spindles off.
> > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > Assemble in reverse order.
> > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > spindles are tight.
> > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > disguised locking device; use it.
> > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> >
> > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > TrailMarker.

Jeff Strickland

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> putting the axles back in.
>

There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
seals when I wrote that procedure.



> I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> SOB to come off first time.
>

It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.




> I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> TrailMarker wrote:
> >
> > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > the weak link.
> > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > have.
> > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > He says
> >
> > "Remove the hub locks.
> > Remove the brake rotors.
> > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > hubs off.
> > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > spindles off.
> > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > Assemble in reverse order.
> > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > spindles are tight.
> > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > disguised locking device; use it.
> > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> >
> > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > TrailMarker.

Jeff Strickland

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca...
> The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
> putting the axles back in.
>

There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
seals when I wrote that procedure.



> I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side
> so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove
> the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an
> SOB to come off first time.
>

It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily.




> I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me
> because they can't be greased so got water contamination.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> TrailMarker wrote:
> >
> > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> > the weak link.
> > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess
> > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> > have.
> > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> > that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> > He says
> >
> > "Remove the hub locks.
> > Remove the brake rotors.
> > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> > hubs off.
> > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> > spindles off.
> > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> > Assemble in reverse order.
> > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> > spindles are tight.
> > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> > disguised locking device; use it.
> > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
> >
> > Is there anything else I need to know?
> > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> > TrailMarker.

Jeff Strickland

"TrailMarker" <carrollcaboodle@netzero.com> wrote in message
news:1117579664.178947.301350@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube.


That ring is a circlip. I don't recall right now, but I think that you can
do fine without the circlip. If you haven't got it, it's no biggie, if you
have got one, put it back on. You can put a bolt into the hole in the
outboard end of the axle shaft to pull the axle out far enough to get to the
groove for the clip.

There are the wheel bearings to think about, and there is a grease seal
where the hub goes onto the spindle. There are small needle bearings inside
the spindle that the axle shaft rides on. And, Mike Romain reminds us there
is the inner seal where the axles go into the pumpkin. If you manage to keep
the alxes clean when you put them back in, you should be OK with the inner
seal, and can avoid taking the diff cover off which will require a new
gasket.





I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.


I have lost track, are you still talking about the circlip?




> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>


WILL SOMEBODY PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE INNER SPINDLE NUT?
Now that I am reading this, I seem to recall that the 80 ft pound figure is
in error.




> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.
>

Jeff Strickland

"TrailMarker" <carrollcaboodle@netzero.com> wrote in message
news:1117579664.178947.301350@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube.


That ring is a circlip. I don't recall right now, but I think that you can
do fine without the circlip. If you haven't got it, it's no biggie, if you
have got one, put it back on. You can put a bolt into the hole in the
outboard end of the axle shaft to pull the axle out far enough to get to the
groove for the clip.

There are the wheel bearings to think about, and there is a grease seal
where the hub goes onto the spindle. There are small needle bearings inside
the spindle that the axle shaft rides on. And, Mike Romain reminds us there
is the inner seal where the axles go into the pumpkin. If you manage to keep
the alxes clean when you put them back in, you should be OK with the inner
seal, and can avoid taking the diff cover off which will require a new
gasket.





I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.


I have lost track, are you still talking about the circlip?




> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>


WILL SOMEBODY PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE INNER SPINDLE NUT?
Now that I am reading this, I seem to recall that the 80 ft pound figure is
in error.




> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.
>

Jeff Strickland

"TrailMarker" <carrollcaboodle@netzero.com> wrote in message
news:1117579664.178947.301350@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube.


That ring is a circlip. I don't recall right now, but I think that you can
do fine without the circlip. If you haven't got it, it's no biggie, if you
have got one, put it back on. You can put a bolt into the hole in the
outboard end of the axle shaft to pull the axle out far enough to get to the
groove for the clip.

There are the wheel bearings to think about, and there is a grease seal
where the hub goes onto the spindle. There are small needle bearings inside
the spindle that the axle shaft rides on. And, Mike Romain reminds us there
is the inner seal where the axles go into the pumpkin. If you manage to keep
the alxes clean when you put them back in, you should be OK with the inner
seal, and can avoid taking the diff cover off which will require a new
gasket.





I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.


I have lost track, are you still talking about the circlip?




> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>


WILL SOMEBODY PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE INNER SPINDLE NUT?
Now that I am reading this, I seem to recall that the 80 ft pound figure is
in error.




> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.
>

Jeff Strickland

"TrailMarker" <carrollcaboodle@netzero.com> wrote in message
news:1117579664.178947.301350@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
> needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so,
> naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D
> replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part
> the weak link.
> I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7
> Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does
> anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need
> to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me
> worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube.


That ring is a circlip. I don't recall right now, but I think that you can
do fine without the circlip. If you haven't got it, it's no biggie, if you
have got one, put it back on. You can put a bolt into the hole in the
outboard end of the axle shaft to pull the axle out far enough to get to the
groove for the clip.

There are the wheel bearings to think about, and there is a grease seal
where the hub goes onto the spindle. There are small needle bearings inside
the spindle that the axle shaft rides on. And, Mike Romain reminds us there
is the inner seal where the axles go into the pumpkin. If you manage to keep
the alxes clean when you put them back in, you should be OK with the inner
seal, and can avoid taking the diff cover off which will require a new
gasket.





I guess
> it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the
> wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal?
> I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I
> have.


I have lost track, are you still talking about the circlip?




> I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland
> that make the job sound pretty straight forward.
> He says
>
> "Remove the hub locks.
> Remove the brake rotors.
> Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the
> hubs off.
> Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield.
> Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the
> spindles off.
> Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints.
> Assemble in reverse order.
> Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around
> several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the
> spindles are tight.
> Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer
> between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it
> will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly
> disguised locking device; use it.
> Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds."
>


WILL SOMEBODY PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE INNER SPINDLE NUT?
Now that I am reading this, I seem to recall that the 80 ft pound figure is
in error.




> Is there anything else I need to know?
> And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some
> right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive.
> TrailMarker.
>

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Jeff,
There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All
the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing:
http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Jeff,
There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All
the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing:
http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Jeff,
There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All
the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing:
http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer
> seals when I wrote that procedure.