"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10o7iob9ou0bgc7@corp.supernews.com...
> I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they offer
> parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly more
> often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part
> for, then you can search the database for the parts.
>
>
>
My bad, that's www.napaonline.com

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10o7iob9ou0bgc7@corp.supernews.com...
> I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they offer
> parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly more
> often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part
> for, then you can search the database for the parts.
>
>
>
My bad, that's www.napaonline.com

 

"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:XgMgd.14118$Al3.12752@newssvr30.news.prodigy. com...
> I have never installed an OME, but what I've heard is that the ride is
> excellent. I have never heard a complaint about OME's ride. I just
> wanted a taller lift, or I might have gone that way. My ride is a touch
> firmer than stock, but I would NOT call it stiff. I could drive it
> across the USA, no problem. I've driven in it for 16 hours straight with
> only gas/food stops.
>

I just went on a club run yesterday and saw a '94 Cherokee on OME
suspension and it looked great. He seemed to have a lot of flexing and a
lot smoother ride (less bouncy) as well. I don't want to go too high
primarily because I don't think I am ready for that yet. The only bad
things I have heard about OME were from a guy visiting here, who I later
found out actually sells Teraflex products in Australia. Thanks for all
your input, it seems like I'll be okay with OME.

TW
--
01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto
D30/44, 265/75R16 BFG Muds

 

"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:XgMgd.14118$Al3.12752@newssvr30.news.prodigy. com...
> I have never installed an OME, but what I've heard is that the ride is
> excellent. I have never heard a complaint about OME's ride. I just
> wanted a taller lift, or I might have gone that way. My ride is a touch
> firmer than stock, but I would NOT call it stiff. I could drive it
> across the USA, no problem. I've driven in it for 16 hours straight with
> only gas/food stops.
>

I just went on a club run yesterday and saw a '94 Cherokee on OME
suspension and it looked great. He seemed to have a lot of flexing and a
lot smoother ride (less bouncy) as well. I don't want to go too high
primarily because I don't think I am ready for that yet. The only bad
things I have heard about OME were from a guy visiting here, who I later
found out actually sells Teraflex products in Australia. Thanks for all
your input, it seems like I'll be okay with OME.

TW
--
01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto
D30/44, 265/75R16 BFG Muds

 

"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:XgMgd.14118$Al3.12752@newssvr30.news.prodigy. com...
> I have never installed an OME, but what I've heard is that the ride is
> excellent. I have never heard a complaint about OME's ride. I just
> wanted a taller lift, or I might have gone that way. My ride is a touch
> firmer than stock, but I would NOT call it stiff. I could drive it
> across the USA, no problem. I've driven in it for 16 hours straight with
> only gas/food stops.
>

I just went on a club run yesterday and saw a '94 Cherokee on OME
suspension and it looked great. He seemed to have a lot of flexing and a
lot smoother ride (less bouncy) as well. I don't want to go too high
primarily because I don't think I am ready for that yet. The only bad
things I have heard about OME were from a guy visiting here, who I later
found out actually sells Teraflex products in Australia. Thanks for all
your input, it seems like I'll be okay with OME.

TW
--
01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto
D30/44, 265/75R16 BFG Muds

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10o7iob9ou0bgc7@corp.supernews.com...
> Firstly, my reply seems kinda smart-*** now as I look back. Sorry.
>

Not a problem, I didn't think of it as being smart-***.

>
> I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they offer
> parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly
more
> often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part
for,
> then you can search the database for the parts.
>

Thanks, I can surely use their database for part numbers. Finding those
parts here would be another story.

>
> I forget which, but it is a common size for which there is normally a
bulk
> roll of suitable hose in the corner of the store. I forget that you are
not
> in the States, but my local parts stores have rolls of various sizes of
> hoses on a rack over in the corner of the store. The hose you need isn't
> really important, that is it doesn't have to be anything specific - it
just
> has to be there. Having said that, I am not sure that you need to replace
it
> because it is long enough already to accomodate the droop, and the droop
> isn't going to change very much as a result of your lift. This is easily
an
> issue you can address once the lift is finished.
>

Okay then, I'll leave it as it is for now and see what happens.

>
> The front drive shaft is long enought that it is seldom a problem with a
2"
> lift. The rear is what is driving the bus in this issue. When you install
> the tcase drop kit, you will end up with an angle for the tcase that is
> pretty much a given. Set the rear pinion so the pinion shaft centerline
is
> parallel to the output shaft centerline. You can get the angle of the
> centerline by using an angle guage along the bottom of the engine block,
and
> there is a flat surface on the diff that will be the plane of the pinion
> shaft.
>

Another toy to acquire :-) an angle guage.......

>
> Somebody needs to jump in here and help me out.
>
> I think that if you raise the motor an inch, you won't need the tcase
drop
> kit. Here's the deal on that.
>
> With the lift, you are raising the motor and trans relative to the axles.
> The body lift has no effect on the vibes, but it does affect other
stuff -
> but one thing at a time. So, you have lifted the engine AND the trans.,
and
> you have disturbed the pinion angle - which your new goal is to bring
back
> into alignment.
>
> First, I don't think the 2" lift will disturb the pinion alignment, so
your
> worries of vibes are unfounded.
>

I didn't plan on doing the body lift and motor mount lift at the same time
as suspension lift at this stage. But thinking about it again, it will
probably save me from dropping the t/case, so it might not be a bad idea to
do it all together. I just don't want to drop the shovel any lower because
I often end up bring back half of the track with me nicely tucked away in
the t/case skid plate.

>
> I think your motor mount lift is a good idea. But, the engine/trans is
> supported in three locations, one on each side of the motor, and one
under
> the trans. If you LOWER the trans and keep the engine in place, you get
an
> angle. Conversely, if you RAISE the engine and keep the trans in the same
> place, you also get an angle. For practicle purposes, the angle you get
is
> going to be the same. So, you don't need to raise the motor and drop the
> trans as a result of the lift, you need to EITHER raise the motor or drop
> the trans. Get it? With a 4" lift, you need to do one or the other of
these,
> but with the 2" lift, I am not sure you will need to do either.
>

I understand that it has to be either one of the options. But your last
comment suggest I need neither!

>
> IF THE SPRING KIT COMES WITH A DROP KIT for the trans, then you need to
> either drop the trans or raise the motor. If the springs do not have a
drop
> kit included, I don't think you need to worry about it.
>

Well, the kit I can get in parts locally so if I opt out of the t/case drop
parts I can save money and put that on motor mounts.

>
> PS
> The belly up skid plate seems to me to be counter to the tcase drop kit.
The
> tcase is held by the skid plate, and the drop kit is essentially a
package
> of bushings that go between the skid plate and the frame. The skid plate
> drops in the center where the tcase fits it, but the belly up skid plate
> hasn't got the drop in the center, so the tcase will end up in the stock
> location relative to the rest of the drive train if you lower the skid
> plate, then raise the tcase with a belly-up skid plate. In this instance,
> you may need the drop kit and the raised motor mounts. Think of the plane
> that all of this stuff occupies. You need the combination of motor mount,
> drop kit, and belly up that keeps the plan parallel. It gets complicated
if
> work at it hard enough, but if you just keep track of the plane it should
be
> pretty simple.
>

Belly up kit I will get when I go to SYE later, probably next year. But
using that imaginary line of how the engine, t/case and the rear end line
up is helpful.

TW

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10o7iob9ou0bgc7@corp.supernews.com...
> Firstly, my reply seems kinda smart-*** now as I look back. Sorry.
>

Not a problem, I didn't think of it as being smart-***.

>
> I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they offer
> parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly
more
> often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part
for,
> then you can search the database for the parts.
>

Thanks, I can surely use their database for part numbers. Finding those
parts here would be another story.

>
> I forget which, but it is a common size for which there is normally a
bulk
> roll of suitable hose in the corner of the store. I forget that you are
not
> in the States, but my local parts stores have rolls of various sizes of
> hoses on a rack over in the corner of the store. The hose you need isn't
> really important, that is it doesn't have to be anything specific - it
just
> has to be there. Having said that, I am not sure that you need to replace
it
> because it is long enough already to accomodate the droop, and the droop
> isn't going to change very much as a result of your lift. This is easily
an
> issue you can address once the lift is finished.
>

Okay then, I'll leave it as it is for now and see what happens.

>
> The front drive shaft is long enought that it is seldom a problem with a
2"
> lift. The rear is what is driving the bus in this issue. When you install
> the tcase drop kit, you will end up with an angle for the tcase that is
> pretty much a given. Set the rear pinion so the pinion shaft centerline
is
> parallel to the output shaft centerline. You can get the angle of the
> centerline by using an angle guage along the bottom of the engine block,
and
> there is a flat surface on the diff that will be the plane of the pinion
> shaft.
>

Another toy to acquire :-) an angle guage.......

>
> Somebody needs to jump in here and help me out.
>
> I think that if you raise the motor an inch, you won't need the tcase
drop
> kit. Here's the deal on that.
>
> With the lift, you are raising the motor and trans relative to the axles.
> The body lift has no effect on the vibes, but it does affect other
stuff -
> but one thing at a time. So, you have lifted the engine AND the trans.,
and
> you have disturbed the pinion angle - which your new goal is to bring
back
> into alignment.
>
> First, I don't think the 2" lift will disturb the pinion alignment, so
your
> worries of vibes are unfounded.
>

I didn't plan on doing the body lift and motor mount lift at the same time
as suspension lift at this stage. But thinking about it again, it will
probably save me from dropping the t/case, so it might not be a bad idea to
do it all together. I just don't want to drop the shovel any lower because
I often end up bring back half of the track with me nicely tucked away in
the t/case skid plate.

>
> I think your motor mount lift is a good idea. But, the engine/trans is
> supported in three locations, one on each side of the motor, and one
under
> the trans. If you LOWER the trans and keep the engine in place, you get
an
> angle. Conversely, if you RAISE the engine and keep the trans in the same
> place, you also get an angle. For practicle purposes, the angle you get
is
> going to be the same. So, you don't need to raise the motor and drop the
> trans as a result of the lift, you need to EITHER raise the motor or drop
> the trans. Get it? With a 4" lift, you need to do one or the other of
these,
> but with the 2" lift, I am not sure you will need to do either.
>

I understand that it has to be either one of the options. But your last
comment suggest I need neither!

>
> IF THE SPRING KIT COMES WITH A DROP KIT for the trans, then you need to
> either drop the trans or raise the motor. If the springs do not have a
drop
> kit included, I don't think you need to worry about it.
>

Well, the kit I can get in parts locally so if I opt out of the t/case drop
parts I can save money and put that on motor mounts.

>
> PS
> The belly up skid plate seems to me to be counter to the tcase drop kit.
The
> tcase is held by the skid plate, and the drop kit is essentially a
package
> of bushings that go between the skid plate and the frame. The skid plate
> drops in the center where the tcase fits it, but the belly up skid plate
> hasn't got the drop in the center, so the tcase will end up in the stock
> location relative to the rest of the drive train if you lower the skid
> plate, then raise the tcase with a belly-up skid plate. In this instance,
> you may need the drop kit and the raised motor mounts. Think of the plane
> that all of this stuff occupies. You need the combination of motor mount,
> drop kit, and belly up that keeps the plan parallel. It gets complicated
if
> work at it hard enough, but if you just keep track of the plane it should
be
> pretty simple.
>

Belly up kit I will get when I go to SYE later, probably next year. But
using that imaginary line of how the engine, t/case and the rear end line
up is helpful.

TW

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10o7iob9ou0bgc7@corp.supernews.com...
> Firstly, my reply seems kinda smart-*** now as I look back. Sorry.
>

Not a problem, I didn't think of it as being smart-***.

>
> I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they offer
> parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly
more
> often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part
for,
> then you can search the database for the parts.
>

Thanks, I can surely use their database for part numbers. Finding those
parts here would be another story.

>
> I forget which, but it is a common size for which there is normally a
bulk
> roll of suitable hose in the corner of the store. I forget that you are
not
> in the States, but my local parts stores have rolls of various sizes of
> hoses on a rack over in the corner of the store. The hose you need isn't
> really important, that is it doesn't have to be anything specific - it
just
> has to be there. Having said that, I am not sure that you need to replace
it
> because it is long enough already to accomodate the droop, and the droop
> isn't going to change very much as a result of your lift. This is easily
an
> issue you can address once the lift is finished.
>

Okay then, I'll leave it as it is for now and see what happens.

>
> The front drive shaft is long enought that it is seldom a problem with a
2"
> lift. The rear is what is driving the bus in this issue. When you install
> the tcase drop kit, you will end up with an angle for the tcase that is
> pretty much a given. Set the rear pinion so the pinion shaft centerline
is
> parallel to the output shaft centerline. You can get the angle of the
> centerline by using an angle guage along the bottom of the engine block,
and
> there is a flat surface on the diff that will be the plane of the pinion
> shaft.
>

Another toy to acquire :-) an angle guage.......

>
> Somebody needs to jump in here and help me out.
>
> I think that if you raise the motor an inch, you won't need the tcase
drop
> kit. Here's the deal on that.
>
> With the lift, you are raising the motor and trans relative to the axles.
> The body lift has no effect on the vibes, but it does affect other
stuff -
> but one thing at a time. So, you have lifted the engine AND the trans.,
and
> you have disturbed the pinion angle - which your new goal is to bring
back
> into alignment.
>
> First, I don't think the 2" lift will disturb the pinion alignment, so
your
> worries of vibes are unfounded.
>

I didn't plan on doing the body lift and motor mount lift at the same time
as suspension lift at this stage. But thinking about it again, it will
probably save me from dropping the t/case, so it might not be a bad idea to
do it all together. I just don't want to drop the shovel any lower because
I often end up bring back half of the track with me nicely tucked away in
the t/case skid plate.

>
> I think your motor mount lift is a good idea. But, the engine/trans is
> supported in three locations, one on each side of the motor, and one
under
> the trans. If you LOWER the trans and keep the engine in place, you get
an
> angle. Conversely, if you RAISE the engine and keep the trans in the same
> place, you also get an angle. For practicle purposes, the angle you get
is
> going to be the same. So, you don't need to raise the motor and drop the
> trans as a result of the lift, you need to EITHER raise the motor or drop
> the trans. Get it? With a 4" lift, you need to do one or the other of
these,
> but with the 2" lift, I am not sure you will need to do either.
>

I understand that it has to be either one of the options. But your last
comment suggest I need neither!

>
> IF THE SPRING KIT COMES WITH A DROP KIT for the trans, then you need to
> either drop the trans or raise the motor. If the springs do not have a
drop
> kit included, I don't think you need to worry about it.
>

Well, the kit I can get in parts locally so if I opt out of the t/case drop
parts I can save money and put that on motor mounts.

>
> PS
> The belly up skid plate seems to me to be counter to the tcase drop kit.
The
> tcase is held by the skid plate, and the drop kit is essentially a
package
> of bushings that go between the skid plate and the frame. The skid plate
> drops in the center where the tcase fits it, but the belly up skid plate
> hasn't got the drop in the center, so the tcase will end up in the stock
> location relative to the rest of the drive train if you lower the skid
> plate, then raise the tcase with a belly-up skid plate. In this instance,
> you may need the drop kit and the raised motor mounts. Think of the plane
> that all of this stuff occupies. You need the combination of motor mount,
> drop kit, and belly up that keeps the plan parallel. It gets complicated
if
> work at it hard enough, but if you just keep track of the plane it should
be
> pretty simple.
>

Belly up kit I will get when I go to SYE later, probably next year. But
using that imaginary line of how the engine, t/case and the rear end line
up is helpful.

TW

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10o7k7m828e8u59@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:10o7iob9ou0bgc7@corp.supernews.com...
> > I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they
offer
> > parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly
more
> > often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part
> > for, then you can search the database for the parts.
> >
> >
> >
> My bad, that's www.napaonline.com
>
>

Thanks.

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10o7k7m828e8u59@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:10o7iob9ou0bgc7@corp.supernews.com...
> > I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they
offer
> > parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly
more
> > often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part
> > for, then you can search the database for the parts.
> >
> >
> >
> My bad, that's www.napaonline.com
>
>

Thanks.