"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:r%rgd.13890$Al3.13033@newssvr30.news.prodigy. com...
> Great lift!
>

Thanks. Am I forgetting something that I should be changing as well? How
stiff is the ride with heavy duty coils/shocks on a TJ? I personally don't
like spongy rides (feel like boats). Any experience? I see you are
running a RE 4.5", but you might have had OME in the past for all I
know....

TIA.
TW

 

"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:r%rgd.13890$Al3.13033@newssvr30.news.prodigy. com...
> Great lift!
>

Thanks. Am I forgetting something that I should be changing as well? How
stiff is the ride with heavy duty coils/shocks on a TJ? I personally don't
like spongy rides (feel like boats). Any experience? I see you are
running a RE 4.5", but you might have had OME in the past for all I
know....

TIA.
TW

 

"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:r%rgd.13890$Al3.13033@newssvr30.news.prodigy. com...
> Great lift!
>

Thanks. Am I forgetting something that I should be changing as well? How
stiff is the ride with heavy duty coils/shocks on a TJ? I personally don't
like spongy rides (feel like boats). Any experience? I see you are
running a RE 4.5", but you might have had OME in the past for all I
know....

TIA.
TW

 

I have never installed an OME, but what I've heard is that the ride is
excellent. I have never heard a complaint about OME's ride. I just
wanted a taller lift, or I might have gone that way. My ride is a touch
firmer than stock, but I would NOT call it stiff. I could drive it
across the USA, no problem. I've driven in it for 16 hours straight with
only gas/food stops.

TW wrote:

> "twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
> news:r%rgd.13890$Al3.13033@newssvr30.news.prodigy. com...
>
>>Great lift!
>>
>
>
> Thanks. Am I forgetting something that I should be changing as well? How
> stiff is the ride with heavy duty coils/shocks on a TJ? I personally don't
> like spongy rides (feel like boats). Any experience? I see you are
> running a RE 4.5", but you might have had OME in the past for all I
> know....
>
> TIA.
> TW
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

 

I have never installed an OME, but what I've heard is that the ride is
excellent. I have never heard a complaint about OME's ride. I just
wanted a taller lift, or I might have gone that way. My ride is a touch
firmer than stock, but I would NOT call it stiff. I could drive it
across the USA, no problem. I've driven in it for 16 hours straight with
only gas/food stops.

TW wrote:

> "twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
> news:r%rgd.13890$Al3.13033@newssvr30.news.prodigy. com...
>
>>Great lift!
>>
>
>
> Thanks. Am I forgetting something that I should be changing as well? How
> stiff is the ride with heavy duty coils/shocks on a TJ? I personally don't
> like spongy rides (feel like boats). Any experience? I see you are
> running a RE 4.5", but you might have had OME in the past for all I
> know....
>
> TIA.
> TW
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

 

I have never installed an OME, but what I've heard is that the ride is
excellent. I have never heard a complaint about OME's ride. I just
wanted a taller lift, or I might have gone that way. My ride is a touch
firmer than stock, but I would NOT call it stiff. I could drive it
across the USA, no problem. I've driven in it for 16 hours straight with
only gas/food stops.

TW wrote:

> "twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
> news:r%rgd.13890$Al3.13033@newssvr30.news.prodigy. com...
>
>>Great lift!
>>
>
>
> Thanks. Am I forgetting something that I should be changing as well? How
> stiff is the ride with heavy duty coils/shocks on a TJ? I personally don't
> like spongy rides (feel like boats). Any experience? I see you are
> running a RE 4.5", but you might have had OME in the past for all I
> know....
>
> TIA.
> TW
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

 

Firstly, my reply seems kinda smart-*** now as I look back. Sorry.




"TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
news:clugiv$thn$1@lust.ihug.co.nz...
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:10o53g69nal2ec1@corp.supernews.com...
>>
> >
>> That would be a kind soul, not sole.
>>
>> If you wanted stock YJ brake lines, you can get them over the counter
> from
>> your local parts store. They will be listed in the parts book.
>>
>
> Ooops, late night and lack of sleep is not a good combination.
>
> Well, local parts stores in New Zealand don't normally carry items that
> fit
> Jeeps, especially Wranglers. In New Zealand last year Jeep sold around 30
> new Wrangler in the whole year..... Not a big enough market. I have
> found
> it to be more productive to go to the local dealer with part number so
> that
> it can be ordered quickly.
>

I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they offer
parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly more
often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part for,
then you can search the database for the parts.




>>
>> > What about axle breathers front and rear? Whats the easiest way to
> extend
>> > them to compensate for extra length required with lift.
>>
>> The axle breathers are either 3/16 or 5/16 hose. Buy several feet of bulk
>> hose and cut it to fit.
>>
>
> Thanks. Is that inner dia or out dia? I will try to measure the
> circumference and see what it works out to.
>

I forget which, but it is a common size for which there is normally a bulk
roll of suitable hose in the corner of the store. I forget that you are not
in the States, but my local parts stores have rolls of various sizes of
hoses on a rack over in the corner of the store. The hose you need isn't
really important, that is it doesn't have to be anything specific - it just
has to be there. Having said that, I am not sure that you need to replace it
because it is long enough already to accomodate the droop, and the droop
isn't going to change very much as a result of your lift. This is easily an
issue you can address once the lift is finished.



>>
>>
>> Would adjustable
>> > cam bolts in the rear help me having rear end adjusted for no driveline
>> > vibes?
>> >
>>
>> If you dropped the tcase you could take care of the vibes. You want the
>> pinion angle and the tcase to be parallel. So, if the pinion angle is at
> 7°,
>> for example, then you also want the tcase to be angled to 7° so the
>> centerline of the output shaft and the pinion are parallel. (I pulled
> that
>> number out of the air, I have no idea what the pinion angle is going to
> be,
>> but my instinct says it will be closer to about 3°.)
>>
>
> I am reluctantly planning on dropping the t/case with their kit. What is
> the acceptable range of pinion angle for a Dana 44 with automatic
> transmission upfront? Would having adjustable cam bolts help me in
> staying
> within the acceptable range as they allow more room to play with.
>

The front drive shaft is long enought that it is seldom a problem with a 2"
lift. The rear is what is driving the bus in this issue. When you install
the tcase drop kit, you will end up with an angle for the tcase that is
pretty much a given. Set the rear pinion so the pinion shaft centerline is
parallel to the output shaft centerline. You can get the angle of the
centerline by using an angle guage along the bottom of the engine block, and
there is a flat surface on the diff that will be the plane of the pinion
shaft.




>> I don't recall how much lift you plan on using, but they make a drop kit
> for
>> the tcase that lowers the skid plate the correct amount for the lift you
> are
>> using.
>>
>
> OME calls it a suspension upgrade and it is generally around 2 to 2.5"
> depending on the extent and weight of accessories like hardtop and beefier
> bumpers. For the time being I am dropping the t/case, but plan on 1"
> motor
> mount lift, 1" body lift, belly up t/case skid plate and SYE and new rear
> drive shaft as and when budget builds up again.
>
> Thanks for your comments in advance.
>

Somebody needs to jump in here and help me out.

I think that if you raise the motor an inch, you won't need the tcase drop
kit. Here's the deal on that.

With the lift, you are raising the motor and trans relative to the axles.
The body lift has no effect on the vibes, but it does affect other stuff -
but one thing at a time. So, you have lifted the engine AND the trans., and
you have disturbed the pinion angle - which your new goal is to bring back
into alignment.

First, I don't think the 2" lift will disturb the pinion alignment, so your
worries of vibes are unfounded.

I think your motor mount lift is a good idea. But, the engine/trans is
supported in three locations, one on each side of the motor, and one under
the trans. If you LOWER the trans and keep the engine in place, you get an
angle. Conversely, if you RAISE the engine and keep the trans in the same
place, you also get an angle. For practicle purposes, the angle you get is
going to be the same. So, you don't need to raise the motor and drop the
trans as a result of the lift, you need to EITHER raise the motor or drop
the trans. Get it? With a 4" lift, you need to do one or the other of these,
but with the 2" lift, I am not sure you will need to do either.

IF THE SPRING KIT COMES WITH A DROP KIT for the trans, then you need to
either drop the trans or raise the motor. If the springs do not have a drop
kit included, I don't think you need to worry about it.


PS
The belly up skid plate seems to me to be counter to the tcase drop kit. The
tcase is held by the skid plate, and the drop kit is essentially a package
of bushings that go between the skid plate and the frame. The skid plate
drops in the center where the tcase fits it, but the belly up skid plate
hasn't got the drop in the center, so the tcase will end up in the stock
location relative to the rest of the drive train if you lower the skid
plate, then raise the tcase with a belly-up skid plate. In this instance,
you may need the drop kit and the raised motor mounts. Think of the plane
that all of this stuff occupies. You need the combination of motor mount,
drop kit, and belly up that keeps the plan parallel. It gets complicated if
work at it hard enough, but if you just keep track of the plane it should be
pretty simple.

 

Firstly, my reply seems kinda smart-*** now as I look back. Sorry.




"TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
news:clugiv$thn$1@lust.ihug.co.nz...
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:10o53g69nal2ec1@corp.supernews.com...
>>
> >
>> That would be a kind soul, not sole.
>>
>> If you wanted stock YJ brake lines, you can get them over the counter
> from
>> your local parts store. They will be listed in the parts book.
>>
>
> Ooops, late night and lack of sleep is not a good combination.
>
> Well, local parts stores in New Zealand don't normally carry items that
> fit
> Jeeps, especially Wranglers. In New Zealand last year Jeep sold around 30
> new Wrangler in the whole year..... Not a big enough market. I have
> found
> it to be more productive to go to the local dealer with part number so
> that
> it can be ordered quickly.
>

I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they offer
parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly more
often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part for,
then you can search the database for the parts.




>>
>> > What about axle breathers front and rear? Whats the easiest way to
> extend
>> > them to compensate for extra length required with lift.
>>
>> The axle breathers are either 3/16 or 5/16 hose. Buy several feet of bulk
>> hose and cut it to fit.
>>
>
> Thanks. Is that inner dia or out dia? I will try to measure the
> circumference and see what it works out to.
>

I forget which, but it is a common size for which there is normally a bulk
roll of suitable hose in the corner of the store. I forget that you are not
in the States, but my local parts stores have rolls of various sizes of
hoses on a rack over in the corner of the store. The hose you need isn't
really important, that is it doesn't have to be anything specific - it just
has to be there. Having said that, I am not sure that you need to replace it
because it is long enough already to accomodate the droop, and the droop
isn't going to change very much as a result of your lift. This is easily an
issue you can address once the lift is finished.



>>
>>
>> Would adjustable
>> > cam bolts in the rear help me having rear end adjusted for no driveline
>> > vibes?
>> >
>>
>> If you dropped the tcase you could take care of the vibes. You want the
>> pinion angle and the tcase to be parallel. So, if the pinion angle is at
> 7°,
>> for example, then you also want the tcase to be angled to 7° so the
>> centerline of the output shaft and the pinion are parallel. (I pulled
> that
>> number out of the air, I have no idea what the pinion angle is going to
> be,
>> but my instinct says it will be closer to about 3°.)
>>
>
> I am reluctantly planning on dropping the t/case with their kit. What is
> the acceptable range of pinion angle for a Dana 44 with automatic
> transmission upfront? Would having adjustable cam bolts help me in
> staying
> within the acceptable range as they allow more room to play with.
>

The front drive shaft is long enought that it is seldom a problem with a 2"
lift. The rear is what is driving the bus in this issue. When you install
the tcase drop kit, you will end up with an angle for the tcase that is
pretty much a given. Set the rear pinion so the pinion shaft centerline is
parallel to the output shaft centerline. You can get the angle of the
centerline by using an angle guage along the bottom of the engine block, and
there is a flat surface on the diff that will be the plane of the pinion
shaft.




>> I don't recall how much lift you plan on using, but they make a drop kit
> for
>> the tcase that lowers the skid plate the correct amount for the lift you
> are
>> using.
>>
>
> OME calls it a suspension upgrade and it is generally around 2 to 2.5"
> depending on the extent and weight of accessories like hardtop and beefier
> bumpers. For the time being I am dropping the t/case, but plan on 1"
> motor
> mount lift, 1" body lift, belly up t/case skid plate and SYE and new rear
> drive shaft as and when budget builds up again.
>
> Thanks for your comments in advance.
>

Somebody needs to jump in here and help me out.

I think that if you raise the motor an inch, you won't need the tcase drop
kit. Here's the deal on that.

With the lift, you are raising the motor and trans relative to the axles.
The body lift has no effect on the vibes, but it does affect other stuff -
but one thing at a time. So, you have lifted the engine AND the trans., and
you have disturbed the pinion angle - which your new goal is to bring back
into alignment.

First, I don't think the 2" lift will disturb the pinion alignment, so your
worries of vibes are unfounded.

I think your motor mount lift is a good idea. But, the engine/trans is
supported in three locations, one on each side of the motor, and one under
the trans. If you LOWER the trans and keep the engine in place, you get an
angle. Conversely, if you RAISE the engine and keep the trans in the same
place, you also get an angle. For practicle purposes, the angle you get is
going to be the same. So, you don't need to raise the motor and drop the
trans as a result of the lift, you need to EITHER raise the motor or drop
the trans. Get it? With a 4" lift, you need to do one or the other of these,
but with the 2" lift, I am not sure you will need to do either.

IF THE SPRING KIT COMES WITH A DROP KIT for the trans, then you need to
either drop the trans or raise the motor. If the springs do not have a drop
kit included, I don't think you need to worry about it.


PS
The belly up skid plate seems to me to be counter to the tcase drop kit. The
tcase is held by the skid plate, and the drop kit is essentially a package
of bushings that go between the skid plate and the frame. The skid plate
drops in the center where the tcase fits it, but the belly up skid plate
hasn't got the drop in the center, so the tcase will end up in the stock
location relative to the rest of the drive train if you lower the skid
plate, then raise the tcase with a belly-up skid plate. In this instance,
you may need the drop kit and the raised motor mounts. Think of the plane
that all of this stuff occupies. You need the combination of motor mount,
drop kit, and belly up that keeps the plan parallel. It gets complicated if
work at it hard enough, but if you just keep track of the plane it should be
pretty simple.

 

Firstly, my reply seems kinda smart-*** now as I look back. Sorry.




"TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
news:clugiv$thn$1@lust.ihug.co.nz...
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:10o53g69nal2ec1@corp.supernews.com...
>>
> >
>> That would be a kind soul, not sole.
>>
>> If you wanted stock YJ brake lines, you can get them over the counter
> from
>> your local parts store. They will be listed in the parts book.
>>
>
> Ooops, late night and lack of sleep is not a good combination.
>
> Well, local parts stores in New Zealand don't normally carry items that
> fit
> Jeeps, especially Wranglers. In New Zealand last year Jeep sold around 30
> new Wrangler in the whole year..... Not a big enough market. I have
> found
> it to be more productive to go to the local dealer with part number so
> that
> it can be ordered quickly.
>

I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they offer
parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly more
often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part for,
then you can search the database for the parts.




>>
>> > What about axle breathers front and rear? Whats the easiest way to
> extend
>> > them to compensate for extra length required with lift.
>>
>> The axle breathers are either 3/16 or 5/16 hose. Buy several feet of bulk
>> hose and cut it to fit.
>>
>
> Thanks. Is that inner dia or out dia? I will try to measure the
> circumference and see what it works out to.
>

I forget which, but it is a common size for which there is normally a bulk
roll of suitable hose in the corner of the store. I forget that you are not
in the States, but my local parts stores have rolls of various sizes of
hoses on a rack over in the corner of the store. The hose you need isn't
really important, that is it doesn't have to be anything specific - it just
has to be there. Having said that, I am not sure that you need to replace it
because it is long enough already to accomodate the droop, and the droop
isn't going to change very much as a result of your lift. This is easily an
issue you can address once the lift is finished.



>>
>>
>> Would adjustable
>> > cam bolts in the rear help me having rear end adjusted for no driveline
>> > vibes?
>> >
>>
>> If you dropped the tcase you could take care of the vibes. You want the
>> pinion angle and the tcase to be parallel. So, if the pinion angle is at
> 7°,
>> for example, then you also want the tcase to be angled to 7° so the
>> centerline of the output shaft and the pinion are parallel. (I pulled
> that
>> number out of the air, I have no idea what the pinion angle is going to
> be,
>> but my instinct says it will be closer to about 3°.)
>>
>
> I am reluctantly planning on dropping the t/case with their kit. What is
> the acceptable range of pinion angle for a Dana 44 with automatic
> transmission upfront? Would having adjustable cam bolts help me in
> staying
> within the acceptable range as they allow more room to play with.
>

The front drive shaft is long enought that it is seldom a problem with a 2"
lift. The rear is what is driving the bus in this issue. When you install
the tcase drop kit, you will end up with an angle for the tcase that is
pretty much a given. Set the rear pinion so the pinion shaft centerline is
parallel to the output shaft centerline. You can get the angle of the
centerline by using an angle guage along the bottom of the engine block, and
there is a flat surface on the diff that will be the plane of the pinion
shaft.




>> I don't recall how much lift you plan on using, but they make a drop kit
> for
>> the tcase that lowers the skid plate the correct amount for the lift you
> are
>> using.
>>
>
> OME calls it a suspension upgrade and it is generally around 2 to 2.5"
> depending on the extent and weight of accessories like hardtop and beefier
> bumpers. For the time being I am dropping the t/case, but plan on 1"
> motor
> mount lift, 1" body lift, belly up t/case skid plate and SYE and new rear
> drive shaft as and when budget builds up again.
>
> Thanks for your comments in advance.
>

Somebody needs to jump in here and help me out.

I think that if you raise the motor an inch, you won't need the tcase drop
kit. Here's the deal on that.

With the lift, you are raising the motor and trans relative to the axles.
The body lift has no effect on the vibes, but it does affect other stuff -
but one thing at a time. So, you have lifted the engine AND the trans., and
you have disturbed the pinion angle - which your new goal is to bring back
into alignment.

First, I don't think the 2" lift will disturb the pinion alignment, so your
worries of vibes are unfounded.

I think your motor mount lift is a good idea. But, the engine/trans is
supported in three locations, one on each side of the motor, and one under
the trans. If you LOWER the trans and keep the engine in place, you get an
angle. Conversely, if you RAISE the engine and keep the trans in the same
place, you also get an angle. For practicle purposes, the angle you get is
going to be the same. So, you don't need to raise the motor and drop the
trans as a result of the lift, you need to EITHER raise the motor or drop
the trans. Get it? With a 4" lift, you need to do one or the other of these,
but with the 2" lift, I am not sure you will need to do either.

IF THE SPRING KIT COMES WITH A DROP KIT for the trans, then you need to
either drop the trans or raise the motor. If the springs do not have a drop
kit included, I don't think you need to worry about it.


PS
The belly up skid plate seems to me to be counter to the tcase drop kit. The
tcase is held by the skid plate, and the drop kit is essentially a package
of bushings that go between the skid plate and the frame. The skid plate
drops in the center where the tcase fits it, but the belly up skid plate
hasn't got the drop in the center, so the tcase will end up in the stock
location relative to the rest of the drive train if you lower the skid
plate, then raise the tcase with a belly-up skid plate. In this instance,
you may need the drop kit and the raised motor mounts. Think of the plane
that all of this stuff occupies. You need the combination of motor mount,
drop kit, and belly up that keeps the plan parallel. It gets complicated if
work at it hard enough, but if you just keep track of the plane it should be
pretty simple.

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10o7iob9ou0bgc7@corp.supernews.com...
> I like to use www.napa.com for my parts look ups. I find that they offer
> parts from several makers, and the cross reference works out properly more
> often than not. Plug in the make and year of the model you want a part
> for, then you can search the database for the parts.
>
>
>
My bad, that's www.napaonline.com