JimG

Hi Jeff,

I differ with your resistance assumption of brake and tail lamps. In the
standard 1157 bulb used in CJ's, the brake filament is about 6 ohms and the
tail is 22 ohms. A resistor would have to be rated at 27 watts for exact
brake/turn lamp simulation. That's a huge resistor that will get very hot.
That said, I don't know what resistance it would take to achieve a
satisfactory blink rate, it could very well be higher than 6 ohms, thus
reducing the wattage requirement.

I think modifying the blinker relay is the safer more efficient way to go
IMO.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift


"Jeff Strickland" < wrote in message ...
> All you need to do is find the resistance of the standard light bulb, and
> put a resistor in the brake/turn light wire when you connect the LED to
> the
> existing wire harness. The stock light bulbs have X resistance - whatever
> X
> might be - but the LED has virtually no resistance, so the flasher circuit
> won't behave properly. All you need do is determine the value of X, and
> install a resistor that is that value, ± a few ohms. I think a standard
> bulb
> will have 390 ohms, so you can use a 470 ohm resistor. This is a very
> common
> size of resistor, and you can get them in quarter- or half-watt versions
> that can take the heat of holding the brake lights on for extended periods
> of time. I am not sure how heavy the resistor needs to be, but my
> inclination is that a quarter-watt should do the trick just fine.
>

JimG

Hi Jeff,

I differ with your resistance assumption of brake and tail lamps. In the
standard 1157 bulb used in CJ's, the brake filament is about 6 ohms and the
tail is 22 ohms. A resistor would have to be rated at 27 watts for exact
brake/turn lamp simulation. That's a huge resistor that will get very hot.
That said, I don't know what resistance it would take to achieve a
satisfactory blink rate, it could very well be higher than 6 ohms, thus
reducing the wattage requirement.

I think modifying the blinker relay is the safer more efficient way to go
IMO.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift


"Jeff Strickland" < wrote in message ...
> All you need to do is find the resistance of the standard light bulb, and
> put a resistor in the brake/turn light wire when you connect the LED to
> the
> existing wire harness. The stock light bulbs have X resistance - whatever
> X
> might be - but the LED has virtually no resistance, so the flasher circuit
> won't behave properly. All you need do is determine the value of X, and
> install a resistor that is that value, ± a few ohms. I think a standard
> bulb
> will have 390 ohms, so you can use a 470 ohm resistor. This is a very
> common
> size of resistor, and you can get them in quarter- or half-watt versions
> that can take the heat of holding the brake lights on for extended periods
> of time. I am not sure how heavy the resistor needs to be, but my
> inclination is that a quarter-watt should do the trick just fine.
>

Jeff Strickland

Whatever.

The brake and turn are the same, the tail is the other. I was winging it,
and tried not to give a spec for the resistance. The thing to do is to
measure a bulb, find the resistance and buy an appropriate resistor.

I suppose you are right on the wattage though. Lamps are easily way to hot
to touch, so the wattage is gonna be way up there.





"JimG" <JimG@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fBnQd.5230$LB7.4050@news02.roc.ny...
> Hi Jeff,
>
> I differ with your resistance assumption of brake and tail lamps. In the
> standard 1157 bulb used in CJ's, the brake filament is about 6 ohms and
> the tail is 22 ohms. A resistor would have to be rated at 27 watts for
> exact brake/turn lamp simulation. That's a huge resistor that will get
> very hot. That said, I don't know what resistance it would take to achieve
> a satisfactory blink rate, it could very well be higher than 6 ohms, thus
> reducing the wattage requirement.
>
> I think modifying the blinker relay is the safer more efficient way to go
> IMO.
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
> 4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>
> 00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
> 4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
> 33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
> D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" < wrote in message ...
>> All you need to do is find the resistance of the standard light bulb, and
>> put a resistor in the brake/turn light wire when you connect the LED to
>> the
>> existing wire harness. The stock light bulbs have X resistance - whatever
>> X
>> might be - but the LED has virtually no resistance, so the flasher
>> circuit
>> won't behave properly. All you need do is determine the value of X, and
>> install a resistor that is that value, ± a few ohms. I think a standard
>> bulb
>> will have 390 ohms, so you can use a 470 ohm resistor. This is a very
>> common
>> size of resistor, and you can get them in quarter- or half-watt versions
>> that can take the heat of holding the brake lights on for extended
>> periods
>> of time. I am not sure how heavy the resistor needs to be, but my
>> inclination is that a quarter-watt should do the trick just fine.
>>
>
>

Jeff Strickland

Whatever.

The brake and turn are the same, the tail is the other. I was winging it,
and tried not to give a spec for the resistance. The thing to do is to
measure a bulb, find the resistance and buy an appropriate resistor.

I suppose you are right on the wattage though. Lamps are easily way to hot
to touch, so the wattage is gonna be way up there.





"JimG" <JimG@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fBnQd.5230$LB7.4050@news02.roc.ny...
> Hi Jeff,
>
> I differ with your resistance assumption of brake and tail lamps. In the
> standard 1157 bulb used in CJ's, the brake filament is about 6 ohms and
> the tail is 22 ohms. A resistor would have to be rated at 27 watts for
> exact brake/turn lamp simulation. That's a huge resistor that will get
> very hot. That said, I don't know what resistance it would take to achieve
> a satisfactory blink rate, it could very well be higher than 6 ohms, thus
> reducing the wattage requirement.
>
> I think modifying the blinker relay is the safer more efficient way to go
> IMO.
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
> 4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>
> 00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
> 4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
> 33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
> D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" < wrote in message ...
>> All you need to do is find the resistance of the standard light bulb, and
>> put a resistor in the brake/turn light wire when you connect the LED to
>> the
>> existing wire harness. The stock light bulbs have X resistance - whatever
>> X
>> might be - but the LED has virtually no resistance, so the flasher
>> circuit
>> won't behave properly. All you need do is determine the value of X, and
>> install a resistor that is that value, ± a few ohms. I think a standard
>> bulb
>> will have 390 ohms, so you can use a 470 ohm resistor. This is a very
>> common
>> size of resistor, and you can get them in quarter- or half-watt versions
>> that can take the heat of holding the brake lights on for extended
>> periods
>> of time. I am not sure how heavy the resistor needs to be, but my
>> inclination is that a quarter-watt should do the trick just fine.
>>
>
>

Jeff Strickland

Whatever.

The brake and turn are the same, the tail is the other. I was winging it,
and tried not to give a spec for the resistance. The thing to do is to
measure a bulb, find the resistance and buy an appropriate resistor.

I suppose you are right on the wattage though. Lamps are easily way to hot
to touch, so the wattage is gonna be way up there.





"JimG" <JimG@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fBnQd.5230$LB7.4050@news02.roc.ny...
> Hi Jeff,
>
> I differ with your resistance assumption of brake and tail lamps. In the
> standard 1157 bulb used in CJ's, the brake filament is about 6 ohms and
> the tail is 22 ohms. A resistor would have to be rated at 27 watts for
> exact brake/turn lamp simulation. That's a huge resistor that will get
> very hot. That said, I don't know what resistance it would take to achieve
> a satisfactory blink rate, it could very well be higher than 6 ohms, thus
> reducing the wattage requirement.
>
> I think modifying the blinker relay is the safer more efficient way to go
> IMO.
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
> 4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>
> 00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
> 4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
> 33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
> D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" < wrote in message ...
>> All you need to do is find the resistance of the standard light bulb, and
>> put a resistor in the brake/turn light wire when you connect the LED to
>> the
>> existing wire harness. The stock light bulbs have X resistance - whatever
>> X
>> might be - but the LED has virtually no resistance, so the flasher
>> circuit
>> won't behave properly. All you need do is determine the value of X, and
>> install a resistor that is that value, ± a few ohms. I think a standard
>> bulb
>> will have 390 ohms, so you can use a 470 ohm resistor. This is a very
>> common
>> size of resistor, and you can get them in quarter- or half-watt versions
>> that can take the heat of holding the brake lights on for extended
>> periods
>> of time. I am not sure how heavy the resistor needs to be, but my
>> inclination is that a quarter-watt should do the trick just fine.
>>
>
>

Dirty Ditch Dawg

got mine in today, Gawd that back corners THIN,, (maybe some corner
guards later on, it never ends does it,,grin)
you could cut it witha pair of sizzors, but the jigsaw worked fine,
and MAN there bright, got my light-boltz wired up,
side lights and backup tommorrow,
oh ya blinkers didnt work, just like the instructions said, as ive got
the YJ i need to get a high rate flasher,
tommorrow,
johnp

DAM Dirty Ditch Dawg, is startin to look like a real jeep,

Dirty Ditch Dawg

got mine in today, Gawd that back corners THIN,, (maybe some corner
guards later on, it never ends does it,,grin)
you could cut it witha pair of sizzors, but the jigsaw worked fine,
and MAN there bright, got my light-boltz wired up,
side lights and backup tommorrow,
oh ya blinkers didnt work, just like the instructions said, as ive got
the YJ i need to get a high rate flasher,
tommorrow,
johnp

DAM Dirty Ditch Dawg, is startin to look like a real jeep,

Dirty Ditch Dawg

got mine in today, Gawd that back corners THIN,, (maybe some corner
guards later on, it never ends does it,,grin)
you could cut it witha pair of sizzors, but the jigsaw worked fine,
and MAN there bright, got my light-boltz wired up,
side lights and backup tommorrow,
oh ya blinkers didnt work, just like the instructions said, as ive got
the YJ i need to get a high rate flasher,
tommorrow,
johnp

DAM Dirty Ditch Dawg, is startin to look like a real jeep,

Guest

Well I am scraping by with the old trailer lights on my 7 but for trailer
towing I got the "cheap" flasher (maybe $3.50) from Advance or Autozone.
That is the one that heats up two leaves inside, then cools - over and over.
Happy Jeeping
"Dirty Ditch Dawg" <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1108515599.563347.193240@l41g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> got mine in today, Gawd that back corners THIN,, (maybe some corner
> guards later on, it never ends does it,,grin)
> you could cut it witha pair of sizzors, but the jigsaw worked fine,
> and MAN there bright, got my light-boltz wired up,
> side lights and backup tommorrow,
> oh ya blinkers didnt work, just like the instructions said, as ive got
> the YJ i need to get a high rate flasher,
> tommorrow,
> johnp
>
> DAM Dirty Ditch Dawg, is startin to look like a real jeep,
>

Guest

Well I am scraping by with the old trailer lights on my 7 but for trailer
towing I got the "cheap" flasher (maybe $3.50) from Advance or Autozone.
That is the one that heats up two leaves inside, then cools - over and over.
Happy Jeeping
"Dirty Ditch Dawg" <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1108515599.563347.193240@l41g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> got mine in today, Gawd that back corners THIN,, (maybe some corner
> guards later on, it never ends does it,,grin)
> you could cut it witha pair of sizzors, but the jigsaw worked fine,
> and MAN there bright, got my light-boltz wired up,
> side lights and backup tommorrow,
> oh ya blinkers didnt work, just like the instructions said, as ive got
> the YJ i need to get a high rate flasher,
> tommorrow,
> johnp
>
> DAM Dirty Ditch Dawg, is startin to look like a real jeep,
>