Last tire question, I promise
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Last tire question, I promise
Ok.
So it's just easier to buy 5, and give the three that are good to someone
who can use them.
:-)
Thanks yet again.
Hank
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:406DF13D.372BE8B5@sympatico.ca...
> viriiman wrote:
> >
> > > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need
to
> > > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if
a
> > > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
> >
> > With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
one
> > with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
>
> That is your stock open diff.
>
> A limited slip has clutch packs inside so it is easier to get both tires
> spinning.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
So it's just easier to buy 5, and give the three that are good to someone
who can use them.
:-)
Thanks yet again.
Hank
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:406DF13D.372BE8B5@sympatico.ca...
> viriiman wrote:
> >
> > > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need
to
> > > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if
a
> > > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
> >
> > With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
one
> > with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
>
> That is your stock open diff.
>
> A limited slip has clutch packs inside so it is easier to get both tires
> spinning.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Last tire question, I promise
just put a set on 235/15 the worst took 1 3/4 ounces of weight very good
they are smooth no noise took the on a 400 mile trip yesterday, they are
hands down better than the geolanders they replaced, I have been very happy
with Bridgestone's as I have a set on my Cadillac
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Pa6dnRntntZpE_DdRVn-hQ@comcast.com...
> Got it narrowed down to the Bridgestone Duler A/T Revo.
>
> The question I have is one of the tires is load rated as C and the other
is
> rated as SL. I know (from the research I did) that the C tires hold a
> greater load then the SL's do. Which one do I want?
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compar...SR5MT673OWL_=4
>
> I'd pick the C's in a heartbeat, but the only problem I have is that the
> site I'm on offers a "Road Hazard" program on the SL rated tires, but NOT
on
> the C rated tires. Normally I wouldn't care, but I've already had two
tires
> replaced under a "Road Hazard" plan that I bought from Sears when I bought
> my tires there, so I know it can be worth it.
>
> Just wondering which ones I should get.
>
>
>
> Thanks again (and again and again)
>
> Hank
> --
> 2001 XJ
> Wilderness Roof Rack
> IPF Headlights
> Lightforce 170 Striker
>
>
they are smooth no noise took the on a 400 mile trip yesterday, they are
hands down better than the geolanders they replaced, I have been very happy
with Bridgestone's as I have a set on my Cadillac
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Pa6dnRntntZpE_DdRVn-hQ@comcast.com...
> Got it narrowed down to the Bridgestone Duler A/T Revo.
>
> The question I have is one of the tires is load rated as C and the other
is
> rated as SL. I know (from the research I did) that the C tires hold a
> greater load then the SL's do. Which one do I want?
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compar...SR5MT673OWL_=4
>
> I'd pick the C's in a heartbeat, but the only problem I have is that the
> site I'm on offers a "Road Hazard" program on the SL rated tires, but NOT
on
> the C rated tires. Normally I wouldn't care, but I've already had two
tires
> replaced under a "Road Hazard" plan that I bought from Sears when I bought
> my tires there, so I know it can be worth it.
>
> Just wondering which ones I should get.
>
>
>
> Thanks again (and again and again)
>
> Hank
> --
> 2001 XJ
> Wilderness Roof Rack
> IPF Headlights
> Lightforce 170 Striker
>
>
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Last tire question, I promise
just put a set on 235/15 the worst took 1 3/4 ounces of weight very good
they are smooth no noise took the on a 400 mile trip yesterday, they are
hands down better than the geolanders they replaced, I have been very happy
with Bridgestone's as I have a set on my Cadillac
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Pa6dnRntntZpE_DdRVn-hQ@comcast.com...
> Got it narrowed down to the Bridgestone Duler A/T Revo.
>
> The question I have is one of the tires is load rated as C and the other
is
> rated as SL. I know (from the research I did) that the C tires hold a
> greater load then the SL's do. Which one do I want?
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compar...SR5MT673OWL_=4
>
> I'd pick the C's in a heartbeat, but the only problem I have is that the
> site I'm on offers a "Road Hazard" program on the SL rated tires, but NOT
on
> the C rated tires. Normally I wouldn't care, but I've already had two
tires
> replaced under a "Road Hazard" plan that I bought from Sears when I bought
> my tires there, so I know it can be worth it.
>
> Just wondering which ones I should get.
>
>
>
> Thanks again (and again and again)
>
> Hank
> --
> 2001 XJ
> Wilderness Roof Rack
> IPF Headlights
> Lightforce 170 Striker
>
>
they are smooth no noise took the on a 400 mile trip yesterday, they are
hands down better than the geolanders they replaced, I have been very happy
with Bridgestone's as I have a set on my Cadillac
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Pa6dnRntntZpE_DdRVn-hQ@comcast.com...
> Got it narrowed down to the Bridgestone Duler A/T Revo.
>
> The question I have is one of the tires is load rated as C and the other
is
> rated as SL. I know (from the research I did) that the C tires hold a
> greater load then the SL's do. Which one do I want?
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compar...SR5MT673OWL_=4
>
> I'd pick the C's in a heartbeat, but the only problem I have is that the
> site I'm on offers a "Road Hazard" program on the SL rated tires, but NOT
on
> the C rated tires. Normally I wouldn't care, but I've already had two
tires
> replaced under a "Road Hazard" plan that I bought from Sears when I bought
> my tires there, so I know it can be worth it.
>
> Just wondering which ones I should get.
>
>
>
> Thanks again (and again and again)
>
> Hank
> --
> 2001 XJ
> Wilderness Roof Rack
> IPF Headlights
> Lightforce 170 Striker
>
>
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Last tire question, I promise
just put a set on 235/15 the worst took 1 3/4 ounces of weight very good
they are smooth no noise took the on a 400 mile trip yesterday, they are
hands down better than the geolanders they replaced, I have been very happy
with Bridgestone's as I have a set on my Cadillac
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Pa6dnRntntZpE_DdRVn-hQ@comcast.com...
> Got it narrowed down to the Bridgestone Duler A/T Revo.
>
> The question I have is one of the tires is load rated as C and the other
is
> rated as SL. I know (from the research I did) that the C tires hold a
> greater load then the SL's do. Which one do I want?
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compar...SR5MT673OWL_=4
>
> I'd pick the C's in a heartbeat, but the only problem I have is that the
> site I'm on offers a "Road Hazard" program on the SL rated tires, but NOT
on
> the C rated tires. Normally I wouldn't care, but I've already had two
tires
> replaced under a "Road Hazard" plan that I bought from Sears when I bought
> my tires there, so I know it can be worth it.
>
> Just wondering which ones I should get.
>
>
>
> Thanks again (and again and again)
>
> Hank
> --
> 2001 XJ
> Wilderness Roof Rack
> IPF Headlights
> Lightforce 170 Striker
>
>
they are smooth no noise took the on a 400 mile trip yesterday, they are
hands down better than the geolanders they replaced, I have been very happy
with Bridgestone's as I have a set on my Cadillac
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Pa6dnRntntZpE_DdRVn-hQ@comcast.com...
> Got it narrowed down to the Bridgestone Duler A/T Revo.
>
> The question I have is one of the tires is load rated as C and the other
is
> rated as SL. I know (from the research I did) that the C tires hold a
> greater load then the SL's do. Which one do I want?
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compar...SR5MT673OWL_=4
>
> I'd pick the C's in a heartbeat, but the only problem I have is that the
> site I'm on offers a "Road Hazard" program on the SL rated tires, but NOT
on
> the C rated tires. Normally I wouldn't care, but I've already had two
tires
> replaced under a "Road Hazard" plan that I bought from Sears when I bought
> my tires there, so I know it can be worth it.
>
> Just wondering which ones I should get.
>
>
>
> Thanks again (and again and again)
>
> Hank
> --
> 2001 XJ
> Wilderness Roof Rack
> IPF Headlights
> Lightforce 170 Striker
>
>
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Last tire question, I promise
just put a set on 235/15 the worst took 1 3/4 ounces of weight very good
they are smooth no noise took the on a 400 mile trip yesterday, they are
hands down better than the geolanders they replaced, I have been very happy
with Bridgestone's as I have a set on my Cadillac
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Pa6dnRntntZpE_DdRVn-hQ@comcast.com...
> Got it narrowed down to the Bridgestone Duler A/T Revo.
>
> The question I have is one of the tires is load rated as C and the other
is
> rated as SL. I know (from the research I did) that the C tires hold a
> greater load then the SL's do. Which one do I want?
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compar...SR5MT673OWL_=4
>
> I'd pick the C's in a heartbeat, but the only problem I have is that the
> site I'm on offers a "Road Hazard" program on the SL rated tires, but NOT
on
> the C rated tires. Normally I wouldn't care, but I've already had two
tires
> replaced under a "Road Hazard" plan that I bought from Sears when I bought
> my tires there, so I know it can be worth it.
>
> Just wondering which ones I should get.
>
>
>
> Thanks again (and again and again)
>
> Hank
> --
> 2001 XJ
> Wilderness Roof Rack
> IPF Headlights
> Lightforce 170 Striker
>
>
they are smooth no noise took the on a 400 mile trip yesterday, they are
hands down better than the geolanders they replaced, I have been very happy
with Bridgestone's as I have a set on my Cadillac
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Pa6dnRntntZpE_DdRVn-hQ@comcast.com...
> Got it narrowed down to the Bridgestone Duler A/T Revo.
>
> The question I have is one of the tires is load rated as C and the other
is
> rated as SL. I know (from the research I did) that the C tires hold a
> greater load then the SL's do. Which one do I want?
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compar...SR5MT673OWL_=4
>
> I'd pick the C's in a heartbeat, but the only problem I have is that the
> site I'm on offers a "Road Hazard" program on the SL rated tires, but NOT
on
> the C rated tires. Normally I wouldn't care, but I've already had two
tires
> replaced under a "Road Hazard" plan that I bought from Sears when I bought
> my tires there, so I know it can be worth it.
>
> Just wondering which ones I should get.
>
>
>
> Thanks again (and again and again)
>
> Hank
> --
> 2001 XJ
> Wilderness Roof Rack
> IPF Headlights
> Lightforce 170 Striker
>
>
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Open Diff Traction Technique: Was: Last tire question, I promise
Just as a small point of order, we shouldn't think in absolutes. With a
stock, open differential, the power goes to the tire that's moving faster.
When one tire turns faster (as in a turn) the spider gears are effectively
multiplying the torque to that tire. This is perfect in a tight turn with
no tires spinning because the total torque from the driveshaft is
distributed between the tires and relieves the stress that would be placed
on the spider gears. The problem with this setup comes when one tire loses
traction.
When one tire loses traction, it turns more (spins) and the torque is
multiplied to that tire and divided from the other. Now, the downward
spiral begins as the spinning tire gets more power to spin faster. The
faster that tire spins, the less traction it has and the firmly planted tire
gets even less power even though it has more traction.
In a world of absolutes, the tire with more traction would have zero
power. But, it actually does receive some power but only as much as the
spinning tire (which is very little). So, here's the bottom line.
If you're in a bad situation like one tire spins on oily, glassy ice and
the other is planted on hot, dry pavement, don't expect to move with gas
pedal alone. But, if both tires are in slick mud, one tire might spin more
but you may have enough to the other tire to help if you don't romp on the
throttle and spin it out of control. You might be disheartened at this
point but we can try to trick the differential with an old technique.
If you apply a little brake pressure, the spinning tire will have drag on
it. That will trick that stock, open differential into thinking the
offending tire has traction and distribute more power to the other tire.
You might think that, "It's braking the stationary tire too" but that tire's
not moving much anyway and now it'll have more power.
I know a lot of the guys here know this technique but I wanted to make
sure some of the newcomers got this corporate knowledge.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GKSdne99orFbd_DdRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need to
> > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if a
> > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
>
> With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
one
> with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
stock, open differential, the power goes to the tire that's moving faster.
When one tire turns faster (as in a turn) the spider gears are effectively
multiplying the torque to that tire. This is perfect in a tight turn with
no tires spinning because the total torque from the driveshaft is
distributed between the tires and relieves the stress that would be placed
on the spider gears. The problem with this setup comes when one tire loses
traction.
When one tire loses traction, it turns more (spins) and the torque is
multiplied to that tire and divided from the other. Now, the downward
spiral begins as the spinning tire gets more power to spin faster. The
faster that tire spins, the less traction it has and the firmly planted tire
gets even less power even though it has more traction.
In a world of absolutes, the tire with more traction would have zero
power. But, it actually does receive some power but only as much as the
spinning tire (which is very little). So, here's the bottom line.
If you're in a bad situation like one tire spins on oily, glassy ice and
the other is planted on hot, dry pavement, don't expect to move with gas
pedal alone. But, if both tires are in slick mud, one tire might spin more
but you may have enough to the other tire to help if you don't romp on the
throttle and spin it out of control. You might be disheartened at this
point but we can try to trick the differential with an old technique.
If you apply a little brake pressure, the spinning tire will have drag on
it. That will trick that stock, open differential into thinking the
offending tire has traction and distribute more power to the other tire.
You might think that, "It's braking the stationary tire too" but that tire's
not moving much anyway and now it'll have more power.
I know a lot of the guys here know this technique but I wanted to make
sure some of the newcomers got this corporate knowledge.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GKSdne99orFbd_DdRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need to
> > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if a
> > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
>
> With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
one
> with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Open Diff Traction Technique: Was: Last tire question, I promise
Just as a small point of order, we shouldn't think in absolutes. With a
stock, open differential, the power goes to the tire that's moving faster.
When one tire turns faster (as in a turn) the spider gears are effectively
multiplying the torque to that tire. This is perfect in a tight turn with
no tires spinning because the total torque from the driveshaft is
distributed between the tires and relieves the stress that would be placed
on the spider gears. The problem with this setup comes when one tire loses
traction.
When one tire loses traction, it turns more (spins) and the torque is
multiplied to that tire and divided from the other. Now, the downward
spiral begins as the spinning tire gets more power to spin faster. The
faster that tire spins, the less traction it has and the firmly planted tire
gets even less power even though it has more traction.
In a world of absolutes, the tire with more traction would have zero
power. But, it actually does receive some power but only as much as the
spinning tire (which is very little). So, here's the bottom line.
If you're in a bad situation like one tire spins on oily, glassy ice and
the other is planted on hot, dry pavement, don't expect to move with gas
pedal alone. But, if both tires are in slick mud, one tire might spin more
but you may have enough to the other tire to help if you don't romp on the
throttle and spin it out of control. You might be disheartened at this
point but we can try to trick the differential with an old technique.
If you apply a little brake pressure, the spinning tire will have drag on
it. That will trick that stock, open differential into thinking the
offending tire has traction and distribute more power to the other tire.
You might think that, "It's braking the stationary tire too" but that tire's
not moving much anyway and now it'll have more power.
I know a lot of the guys here know this technique but I wanted to make
sure some of the newcomers got this corporate knowledge.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GKSdne99orFbd_DdRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need to
> > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if a
> > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
>
> With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
one
> with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
stock, open differential, the power goes to the tire that's moving faster.
When one tire turns faster (as in a turn) the spider gears are effectively
multiplying the torque to that tire. This is perfect in a tight turn with
no tires spinning because the total torque from the driveshaft is
distributed between the tires and relieves the stress that would be placed
on the spider gears. The problem with this setup comes when one tire loses
traction.
When one tire loses traction, it turns more (spins) and the torque is
multiplied to that tire and divided from the other. Now, the downward
spiral begins as the spinning tire gets more power to spin faster. The
faster that tire spins, the less traction it has and the firmly planted tire
gets even less power even though it has more traction.
In a world of absolutes, the tire with more traction would have zero
power. But, it actually does receive some power but only as much as the
spinning tire (which is very little). So, here's the bottom line.
If you're in a bad situation like one tire spins on oily, glassy ice and
the other is planted on hot, dry pavement, don't expect to move with gas
pedal alone. But, if both tires are in slick mud, one tire might spin more
but you may have enough to the other tire to help if you don't romp on the
throttle and spin it out of control. You might be disheartened at this
point but we can try to trick the differential with an old technique.
If you apply a little brake pressure, the spinning tire will have drag on
it. That will trick that stock, open differential into thinking the
offending tire has traction and distribute more power to the other tire.
You might think that, "It's braking the stationary tire too" but that tire's
not moving much anyway and now it'll have more power.
I know a lot of the guys here know this technique but I wanted to make
sure some of the newcomers got this corporate knowledge.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GKSdne99orFbd_DdRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need to
> > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if a
> > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
>
> With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
one
> with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Open Diff Traction Technique: Was: Last tire question, I promise
Just as a small point of order, we shouldn't think in absolutes. With a
stock, open differential, the power goes to the tire that's moving faster.
When one tire turns faster (as in a turn) the spider gears are effectively
multiplying the torque to that tire. This is perfect in a tight turn with
no tires spinning because the total torque from the driveshaft is
distributed between the tires and relieves the stress that would be placed
on the spider gears. The problem with this setup comes when one tire loses
traction.
When one tire loses traction, it turns more (spins) and the torque is
multiplied to that tire and divided from the other. Now, the downward
spiral begins as the spinning tire gets more power to spin faster. The
faster that tire spins, the less traction it has and the firmly planted tire
gets even less power even though it has more traction.
In a world of absolutes, the tire with more traction would have zero
power. But, it actually does receive some power but only as much as the
spinning tire (which is very little). So, here's the bottom line.
If you're in a bad situation like one tire spins on oily, glassy ice and
the other is planted on hot, dry pavement, don't expect to move with gas
pedal alone. But, if both tires are in slick mud, one tire might spin more
but you may have enough to the other tire to help if you don't romp on the
throttle and spin it out of control. You might be disheartened at this
point but we can try to trick the differential with an old technique.
If you apply a little brake pressure, the spinning tire will have drag on
it. That will trick that stock, open differential into thinking the
offending tire has traction and distribute more power to the other tire.
You might think that, "It's braking the stationary tire too" but that tire's
not moving much anyway and now it'll have more power.
I know a lot of the guys here know this technique but I wanted to make
sure some of the newcomers got this corporate knowledge.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GKSdne99orFbd_DdRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need to
> > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if a
> > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
>
> With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
one
> with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
stock, open differential, the power goes to the tire that's moving faster.
When one tire turns faster (as in a turn) the spider gears are effectively
multiplying the torque to that tire. This is perfect in a tight turn with
no tires spinning because the total torque from the driveshaft is
distributed between the tires and relieves the stress that would be placed
on the spider gears. The problem with this setup comes when one tire loses
traction.
When one tire loses traction, it turns more (spins) and the torque is
multiplied to that tire and divided from the other. Now, the downward
spiral begins as the spinning tire gets more power to spin faster. The
faster that tire spins, the less traction it has and the firmly planted tire
gets even less power even though it has more traction.
In a world of absolutes, the tire with more traction would have zero
power. But, it actually does receive some power but only as much as the
spinning tire (which is very little). So, here's the bottom line.
If you're in a bad situation like one tire spins on oily, glassy ice and
the other is planted on hot, dry pavement, don't expect to move with gas
pedal alone. But, if both tires are in slick mud, one tire might spin more
but you may have enough to the other tire to help if you don't romp on the
throttle and spin it out of control. You might be disheartened at this
point but we can try to trick the differential with an old technique.
If you apply a little brake pressure, the spinning tire will have drag on
it. That will trick that stock, open differential into thinking the
offending tire has traction and distribute more power to the other tire.
You might think that, "It's braking the stationary tire too" but that tire's
not moving much anyway and now it'll have more power.
I know a lot of the guys here know this technique but I wanted to make
sure some of the newcomers got this corporate knowledge.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GKSdne99orFbd_DdRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need to
> > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if a
> > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
>
> With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
one
> with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Open Diff Traction Technique: Was: Last tire question, I promise
Just as a small point of order, we shouldn't think in absolutes. With a
stock, open differential, the power goes to the tire that's moving faster.
When one tire turns faster (as in a turn) the spider gears are effectively
multiplying the torque to that tire. This is perfect in a tight turn with
no tires spinning because the total torque from the driveshaft is
distributed between the tires and relieves the stress that would be placed
on the spider gears. The problem with this setup comes when one tire loses
traction.
When one tire loses traction, it turns more (spins) and the torque is
multiplied to that tire and divided from the other. Now, the downward
spiral begins as the spinning tire gets more power to spin faster. The
faster that tire spins, the less traction it has and the firmly planted tire
gets even less power even though it has more traction.
In a world of absolutes, the tire with more traction would have zero
power. But, it actually does receive some power but only as much as the
spinning tire (which is very little). So, here's the bottom line.
If you're in a bad situation like one tire spins on oily, glassy ice and
the other is planted on hot, dry pavement, don't expect to move with gas
pedal alone. But, if both tires are in slick mud, one tire might spin more
but you may have enough to the other tire to help if you don't romp on the
throttle and spin it out of control. You might be disheartened at this
point but we can try to trick the differential with an old technique.
If you apply a little brake pressure, the spinning tire will have drag on
it. That will trick that stock, open differential into thinking the
offending tire has traction and distribute more power to the other tire.
You might think that, "It's braking the stationary tire too" but that tire's
not moving much anyway and now it'll have more power.
I know a lot of the guys here know this technique but I wanted to make
sure some of the newcomers got this corporate knowledge.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GKSdne99orFbd_DdRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need to
> > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if a
> > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
>
> With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
one
> with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
stock, open differential, the power goes to the tire that's moving faster.
When one tire turns faster (as in a turn) the spider gears are effectively
multiplying the torque to that tire. This is perfect in a tight turn with
no tires spinning because the total torque from the driveshaft is
distributed between the tires and relieves the stress that would be placed
on the spider gears. The problem with this setup comes when one tire loses
traction.
When one tire loses traction, it turns more (spins) and the torque is
multiplied to that tire and divided from the other. Now, the downward
spiral begins as the spinning tire gets more power to spin faster. The
faster that tire spins, the less traction it has and the firmly planted tire
gets even less power even though it has more traction.
In a world of absolutes, the tire with more traction would have zero
power. But, it actually does receive some power but only as much as the
spinning tire (which is very little). So, here's the bottom line.
If you're in a bad situation like one tire spins on oily, glassy ice and
the other is planted on hot, dry pavement, don't expect to move with gas
pedal alone. But, if both tires are in slick mud, one tire might spin more
but you may have enough to the other tire to help if you don't romp on the
throttle and spin it out of control. You might be disheartened at this
point but we can try to trick the differential with an old technique.
If you apply a little brake pressure, the spinning tire will have drag on
it. That will trick that stock, open differential into thinking the
offending tire has traction and distribute more power to the other tire.
You might think that, "It's braking the stationary tire too" but that tire's
not moving much anyway and now it'll have more power.
I know a lot of the guys here know this technique but I wanted to make
sure some of the newcomers got this corporate knowledge.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GKSdne99orFbd_DdRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need to
> > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if a
> > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
>
> With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
one
> with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Open Diff Traction Technique: Was: Last tire question, I promise
That trick has saved me from being on the receiving end of a strap a few
times.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Drink wrote:
>
> Just as a small point of order, we shouldn't think in absolutes. With a
> stock, open differential, the power goes to the tire that's moving faster.
> When one tire turns faster (as in a turn) the spider gears are effectively
> multiplying the torque to that tire. This is perfect in a tight turn with
> no tires spinning because the total torque from the driveshaft is
> distributed between the tires and relieves the stress that would be placed
> on the spider gears. The problem with this setup comes when one tire loses
> traction.
> When one tire loses traction, it turns more (spins) and the torque is
> multiplied to that tire and divided from the other. Now, the downward
> spiral begins as the spinning tire gets more power to spin faster. The
> faster that tire spins, the less traction it has and the firmly planted tire
> gets even less power even though it has more traction.
> In a world of absolutes, the tire with more traction would have zero
> power. But, it actually does receive some power but only as much as the
> spinning tire (which is very little). So, here's the bottom line.
> If you're in a bad situation like one tire spins on oily, glassy ice and
> the other is planted on hot, dry pavement, don't expect to move with gas
> pedal alone. But, if both tires are in slick mud, one tire might spin more
> but you may have enough to the other tire to help if you don't romp on the
> throttle and spin it out of control. You might be disheartened at this
> point but we can try to trick the differential with an old technique.
> If you apply a little brake pressure, the spinning tire will have drag on
> it. That will trick that stock, open differential into thinking the
> offending tire has traction and distribute more power to the other tire.
> You might think that, "It's braking the stationary tire too" but that tire's
> not moving much anyway and now it'll have more power.
> I know a lot of the guys here know this technique but I wanted to make
> sure some of the newcomers got this corporate knowledge.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:GKSdne99orFbd_DdRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> > > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need to
> > > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if a
> > > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
> >
> > With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
> one
> > with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?
times.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Drink wrote:
>
> Just as a small point of order, we shouldn't think in absolutes. With a
> stock, open differential, the power goes to the tire that's moving faster.
> When one tire turns faster (as in a turn) the spider gears are effectively
> multiplying the torque to that tire. This is perfect in a tight turn with
> no tires spinning because the total torque from the driveshaft is
> distributed between the tires and relieves the stress that would be placed
> on the spider gears. The problem with this setup comes when one tire loses
> traction.
> When one tire loses traction, it turns more (spins) and the torque is
> multiplied to that tire and divided from the other. Now, the downward
> spiral begins as the spinning tire gets more power to spin faster. The
> faster that tire spins, the less traction it has and the firmly planted tire
> gets even less power even though it has more traction.
> In a world of absolutes, the tire with more traction would have zero
> power. But, it actually does receive some power but only as much as the
> spinning tire (which is very little). So, here's the bottom line.
> If you're in a bad situation like one tire spins on oily, glassy ice and
> the other is planted on hot, dry pavement, don't expect to move with gas
> pedal alone. But, if both tires are in slick mud, one tire might spin more
> but you may have enough to the other tire to help if you don't romp on the
> throttle and spin it out of control. You might be disheartened at this
> point but we can try to trick the differential with an old technique.
> If you apply a little brake pressure, the spinning tire will have drag on
> it. That will trick that stock, open differential into thinking the
> offending tire has traction and distribute more power to the other tire.
> You might think that, "It's braking the stationary tire too" but that tire's
> not moving much anyway and now it'll have more power.
> I know a lot of the guys here know this technique but I wanted to make
> sure some of the newcomers got this corporate knowledge.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:GKSdne99orFbd_DdRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> > > If you just have a locker or limited slip in the rear, then you need to
> > > use the smaller spare on the front only which means 2 tire changes if a
> > > rear goes flat. One front one to the back, the spare to the front.
> >
> > With a limited slip the tire with the least amount of grip spins and the
> one
> > with the best grip doesn't get any power, correct?