1993 XJ 4.0L 120K.

I have read that after your vehicle is up to operating temperature and you
turn it off, that you should not be able to spin the fan by hand very
easily. Is this true? I took my Jeep out on about a 16 mile trip last
night. It was pretty warm out, and the engine was easily up to temp. As
soon as I got home, I popped the hood, and was able to spin the fan
(mechanical) very easily by hand. I have read that this could mean a fan
clutch problem, or am I just not building up pressure in the system? Again,
any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Could that be my whole cooling problem? Like I said, it spins very easily
after it is warmed up.


"AUTOKAWKR" <autokawkr@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030703083756.02026.00000054@mb-m07.aol.com...
> Sounds like you need a fan clutch to me. My GW fan is hard to spin after
it
> gets warm.
>
>
> Mr. Bill
> at a 4 way stop.....the vehicle with the largest wheels has the right of
way
> My Jeep is not an SUV....your SUV is not a Jeep
>
>
>
>
>
>

 

You just found your cooling problem.
A fan with a viscous clutch should spin easily when COLD, at high high
temperature the fan will not 'spin'. You need to replace the clutch.

bpn wrote:
> 1993 XJ 4.0L 120K.
>
> I have read that after your vehicle is up to operating temperature and you
> turn it off, that you should not be able to spin the fan by hand very
> easily. Is this true? I took my Jeep out on about a 16 mile trip last
> night. It was pretty warm out, and the engine was easily up to temp. As
> soon as I got home, I popped the hood, and was able to spin the fan
> (mechanical) very easily by hand. I have read that this could mean a fan
> clutch problem, or am I just not building up pressure in the system? Again,
> any suggestions are appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
>

 

With 120k miles on it, I would expect the fan clutch to be on the verge of
failure anyway. Cheap insurance to replace it. These things are not the
best engineering idea...

Earle

"bpn" <bpn@nomailforme.com> wrote in message
news:vg8altffpann2d@corp.supernews.com...
> Could that be my whole cooling problem? Like I said, it spins very easily
> after it is warmed up.
>
>
> "AUTOKAWKR" <autokawkr@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:20030703083756.02026.00000054@mb-m07.aol.com...
> > Sounds like you need a fan clutch to me. My GW fan is hard to spin after
> it
> > gets warm.
> >
> >
> > Mr. Bill
> > at a 4 way stop.....the vehicle with the largest wheels has the right of
> way
> > My Jeep is not an SUV....your SUV is not a Jeep
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

Since you have run 6 years with the old radiator with no problems until
recently .... says that it's heat eject capacity is OK. Id cancel the
new one and simply descale the old one. Radiators dont wear out, they
foul. Descale it and you will restore it. When you descale you will
also descale the engine internals ... regenerating better heat transfer
internally in the engine. www.marsolve.com for a descaler that wont
remove base metal from the radiator or engine.

Use distilled or demineralized water when refilling.

 

OK, I'll bite. How do I use it in a radiator?

"RichH" <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net> wrote in message
news:3F0449BB.1020000@NOSPAM.net...
> Since you have run 6 years with the old radiator with no problems until
> recently .... says that it's heat eject capacity is OK. Id cancel the
> new one and simply descale the old one. Radiators dont wear out, they
> foul. Descale it and you will restore it. When you descale you will
> also descale the engine internals ... regenerating better heat transfer
> internally in the engine. www.marsolve.com for a descaler that wont
> remove base metal from the radiator or engine.
>
> Use distilled or demineralized water when refilling.
>

 

Drain what you have, Dump in the descaler, circulate a few minutes until
warm, let sit a few hours, turn on and recirculate, wait a few more
hours, dump, rinse several times until clear, refil. If you have a pump
available, reverse flow the solution through the heater coils to
'regenerate' that also. If you have had poor heater output, descaling
the heater coil is definitely in order - youll need a pump to
reverse-recirculate through the heater coil. disconnect both heater
hoses at the water pump, connect the heat outlet hose to the pump ...
the inlet heater hose goes to a bucket.

Descaling is usually not necessary unless you see lots of 'crud'
blocking the internal "fins" of the radiator ... when you open the cap
and look inside the radiator. If you see lots of crud inside the
radiator, the engine internals will be much worse -- and the heater
coils will probably be almost entirely blocked.

bpn wrote:
> OK, I'll bite. How do I use it in a radiator?
>
> "RichH" <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net> wrote in message
> news:3F0449BB.1020000@NOSPAM.net...
>
>>Since you have run 6 years with the old radiator with no problems until
>>recently .... says that it's heat eject capacity is OK. Id cancel the
>>new one and simply descale the old one. Radiators dont wear out, they
>>foul. Descale it and you will restore it. When you descale you will
>>also descale the engine internals ... regenerating better heat transfer
>>internally in the engine. www.marsolve.com for a descaler that wont
>>remove base metal from the radiator or engine.
>>
>>Use distilled or demineralized water when refilling.
>>
>
>
>

 

I tried one compound that came in a cardboard tube, one end had the
"descaler". after a short run the solution was dumped, and flushed, then the
neutraliser was added, and run with water for a bit. Worked great... can't
find anywhere here in the "colonies" (4th of July and all... couldn't
resist... sorry) though.
"RichH" <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net> wrote in message
news:3F045AFE.2030403@NOSPAM.net...
Drain what you have, Dump in the descaler, circulate a few minutes until
warm, let sit a few hours, turn on and recirculate, wait a few more
hours, dump, rinse several times until clear, refil. If you have a pump
available, reverse flow the solution through the heater coils to
'regenerate' that also. If you have had poor heater output, descaling
the heater coil is definitely in order - youll need a pump to
reverse-recirculate through the heater coil. disconnect both heater
hoses at the water pump, connect the heat outlet hose to the pump ...
the inlet heater hose goes to a bucket.

Descaling is usually not necessary unless you see lots of 'crud'
blocking the internal "fins" of the radiator ... when you open the cap
and look inside the radiator. If you see lots of crud inside the
radiator, the engine internals will be much worse -- and the heater
coils will probably be almost entirely blocked.

bpn wrote:
> OK, I'll bite. How do I use it in a radiator?
>
> "RichH" <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net> wrote in message
> news:3F0449BB.1020000@NOSPAM.net...
>
>>Since you have run 6 years with the old radiator with no problems until
>>recently .... says that it's heat eject capacity is OK. Id cancel the
>>new one and simply descale the old one. Radiators dont wear out, they
>>foul. Descale it and you will restore it. When you descale you will
>>also descale the engine internals ... regenerating better heat transfer
>>internally in the engine. www.marsolve.com for a descaler that wont
>>remove base metal from the radiator or engine.
>>
>>Use distilled or demineralized water when refilling.
>>
>
>
>