From the various research I have done on the cooling problems of my 1993 XJ
4.0L, I have decided to replace the radiator with a 3-core. Some of the
posts I have read mention getting the air out (burping) of the system. What
is the best way to do this? Trying to gather all the info I can before I
start this project

Thanks in advance.

 

Remove the coolant temperature sensor, which should be near the top of the
cylinder head. Fill the system until coolant comes out the sensor, thread
it back in, and fill to capacity. Fool proof.

Earle

"bpn" <bpn@nomailforme.com> wrote in message
news:vg69ovqjfqf142@corp.supernews.com...
> From the various research I have done on the cooling problems of my 1993
XJ
> 4.0L, I have decided to replace the radiator with a 3-core. Some of the
> posts I have read mention getting the air out (burping) of the system.
What
> is the best way to do this? Trying to gather all the info I can before I
> start this project
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

 

Sometimes the thermostat traps air in the engine. It can be a bear to get
out. Sometimes even if you run the engine it still won't come out. "Common
sense" says that even with air in there the thermostat should open, or that
the bleeder hole in the thermostat should work. I don't know why, but this
sometimes fails. Take off the head heat sensor or the heater hose from the
head, and it all comes out.

Earle

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vg6h73nfmvvgb1@corp.supernews.com...
> Won't air get pushed out all by itself and get stuck in the radiator?
>
> Start the motor and leave the radiator cap off. After the tstat opens, top
> off the radiator again. Then, put the cap back on and go for a ride.
> Tomorrow, before you start the motor again, pull the cap and top off if
> needed. Any air that is in the system should get pushed to the radiator
> where it will be captured.
>
> PS
> You don't need to wait until tomorrow, you only need to wait for the
> radiator co cool so that you can open it.
>
>
>
>
> "bpn" <bpn@nomailforme.com> wrote in message
> news:vg69ovqjfqf142@corp.supernews.com...
> > From the various research I have done on the cooling problems of my 1993
> XJ
> > 4.0L, I have decided to replace the radiator with a 3-core. Some of the
> > posts I have read mention getting the air out (burping) of the system.
> What
> > is the best way to do this? Trying to gather all the info I can before
I
> > start this project
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
>
>

 

bleeding the system is not needed in most cases (barring any engineering...
"masterpieces"). The only time I have seen it employed as a standard
practice is in systems where the radiator is notably lower than engine...
then, the uppermost part of the system will be fitted with a bleed valve
(looks like a giant brake bleeder) Most common on the water neck.

Under normal operation, any trapped air should be forced out, or dissolved
into coolant through normal operation, provided your closed system tank is
filled, the radiator cap is functioning, and there are no other leaks.


"bpn" <bpn@nomailforme.com> wrote in message
news:vg69ovqjfqf142@corp.supernews.com...
> From the various research I have done on the cooling problems of my 1993
XJ
> 4.0L, I have decided to replace the radiator with a 3-core. Some of the
> posts I have read mention getting the air out (burping) of the system.
What
> is the best way to do this? Trying to gather all the info I can before I
> start this project
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

 

"bpn" <bpn@nomailforme.com> wrote in message
news:vg69ovqjfqf142@corp.supernews.com...
> From the various research I have done on the cooling problems of my 1993
XJ
> 4.0L, I have decided to replace the radiator with a 3-core. Some of the
> posts I have read mention getting the air out (burping) of the system.
What
> is the best way to do this? Trying to gather all the info I can before I
> start this project
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

Great and quick responses as always. I am very impressed with this group.
Thanks.

 

I don't know the physics behind it, but I've had systems that would
trap an air pocket and just continue to overheat until you let it
flow under zero pressure (cap off) for a while. Same with the little
trick Mike Romain mentions every so often about having the heater hose
located too high. I always back mine out of the level garage to the
sloped driveway and fill it with the nose pointed up a bit - that
seems to do the trick as well.

On Wed, 2 Jul 2003 20:42:36 UTC "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com>
wrote:

> Won't air get pushed out all by itself and get stuck in the radiator?
>
> Start the motor and leave the radiator cap off. After the tstat opens, top
> off the radiator again. Then, put the cap back on and go for a ride.
> Tomorrow, before you start the motor again, pull the cap and top off if
> needed. Any air that is in the system should get pushed to the radiator
> where it will be captured.
>
> PS
> You don't need to wait until tomorrow, you only need to wait for the
> radiator co cool so that you can open it.
>
>
>
>
> "bpn" <bpn@nomailforme.com> wrote in message
> news:vg69ovqjfqf142@corp.supernews.com...
> > From the various research I have done on the cooling problems of my 1993
> XJ
> > 4.0L, I have decided to replace the radiator with a 3-core. Some of the
> > posts I have read mention getting the air out (burping) of the system.
> What
> > is the best way to do this? Trying to gather all the info I can before I
> > start this project
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
>
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

" ... where the radiator is lower than the engine ..." is a key part of this
discussion. The air will get trapped at the highest location in the system,
this is usually the radiator cap.




"Username" <chesshire_cat@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:CDNMa.15460$vx3.4035710@kent.svc.tds.net...
> bleeding the system is not needed in most cases (barring any
engineering...
> "masterpieces"). The only time I have seen it employed as a standard
> practice is in systems where the radiator is notably lower than engine...
> then, the uppermost part of the system will be fitted with a bleed valve
> (looks like a giant brake bleeder) Most common on the water neck.
>
> Under normal operation, any trapped air should be forced out, or dissolved
> into coolant through normal operation, provided your closed system tank is
> filled, the radiator cap is functioning, and there are no other leaks.
>
>
> "bpn" <bpn@nomailforme.com> wrote in message
> news:vg69ovqjfqf142@corp.supernews.com...
> > From the various research I have done on the cooling problems of my 1993
> XJ
> > 4.0L, I have decided to replace the radiator with a 3-core. Some of the
> > posts I have read mention getting the air out (burping) of the system.
> What
> > is the best way to do this? Trying to gather all the info I can before
I
> > start this project
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
>
>

 

Hi Jeff,
There's at least a gallon air pocket in my '89 Bird, in the top
radiator hose that is well above the radiator, and I bet if you look at
your Bimmer You'll have it too. It's no problem just when I change
coolant I fill completely the overflow reservoir, then refill it when
next it cools. Then it's good to go for the next two years.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> I have never experienced that, and my father was a car wholesaler during my
> teen years, so making junkers work like a clock tended to consume my
> weekends. I have heard you guys talking about it here, but I have never
> actually seen it.
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-ejEUksdjE3HK@anon.none.net...
> > I don't know the physics behind it, but I've had systems that would
> > trap an air pocket and just continue to overheat until you let it
> > flow under zero pressure (cap off) for a while. Same with the little
> > trick Mike Romain mentions every so often about having the heater hose
> > located too high. I always back mine out of the level garage to the
> > sloped driveway and fill it with the nose pointed up a bit - that
> > seems to do the trick as well.
> >
> > On Wed, 2 Jul 2003 20:42:36 UTC "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Won't air get pushed out all by itself and get stuck in the radiator?
> > >
> > > Start the motor and leave the radiator cap off. After the tstat opens,
> top
> > > off the radiator again. Then, put the cap back on and go for a ride.
> > > Tomorrow, before you start the motor again, pull the cap and top off if
> > > needed. Any air that is in the system should get pushed to the radiator
> > > where it will be captured.
> > >
> > > PS
> > > You don't need to wait until tomorrow, you only need to wait for the
> > > radiator co cool so that you can open it.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "bpn" <bpn@nomailforme.com> wrote in message
> > > news:vg69ovqjfqf142@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > From the various research I have done on the cooling problems of my
> 1993
> > > XJ
> > > > 4.0L, I have decided to replace the radiator with a 3-core. Some of
> the
> > > > posts I have read mention getting the air out (burping) of the system.
> > > What
> > > > is the best way to do this? Trying to gather all the info I can
> before I
> > > > start this project
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

Every auto parts store sells two types of fan clutches, thermal and
centrifugal, get the more expensive thermal, you'll recognize it by the
little thermos spring thingie at the end.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

bpn wrote:
>
> Great and quick responses as always. I am very impressed with this group.
> Thanks.

 

If I remember right, my top hose is below the level of the radiator cap.
But, even if it wasn't, the huge flow of water through the hose would tend
to empty the air out of it and into the radiator where it would be trapped
at least until the motor was shut off, where it would migrate back to the
hose if the hose was the hig point in the system. I just don't get it when
we worry about air getting stuck inside the block, I have never experienced
air getting stuck, and I can't imagine anybody experiencing a greater
variety of cars than I have been exosed to. I have noticed plugs and stuff
that, in theory, would allow air to be bled from the block, I just haven't
ever had the pleasure of performing that particular task.




"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F048ADA.7B4724F4@***.net...
> Hi Jeff,
> There's at least a gallon air pocket in my '89 Bird, in the top
> radiator hose that is well above the radiator, and I bet if you look at
> your Bimmer You'll have it too. It's no problem just when I change
> coolant I fill completely the overflow reservoir, then refill it when
> next it cools. Then it's good to go for the next two years.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >
> > I have never experienced that, and my father was a car wholesaler during
my
> > teen years, so making junkers work like a clock tended to consume my
> > weekends. I have heard you guys talking about it here, but I have never
> > actually seen it.
> >
> > "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-ejEUksdjE3HK@anon.none.net...
> > > I don't know the physics behind it, but I've had systems that would
> > > trap an air pocket and just continue to overheat until you let it
> > > flow under zero pressure (cap off) for a while. Same with the little
> > > trick Mike Romain mentions every so often about having the heater hose
> > > located too high. I always back mine out of the level garage to the
> > > sloped driveway and fill it with the nose pointed up a bit - that
> > > seems to do the trick as well.
> > >
> > > On Wed, 2 Jul 2003 20:42:36 UTC "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Won't air get pushed out all by itself and get stuck in the
radiator?
> > > >
> > > > Start the motor and leave the radiator cap off. After the tstat
opens,
> > top
> > > > off the radiator again. Then, put the cap back on and go for a ride.
> > > > Tomorrow, before you start the motor again, pull the cap and top off
if
> > > > needed. Any air that is in the system should get pushed to the
radiator
> > > > where it will be captured.
> > > >
> > > > PS
> > > > You don't need to wait until tomorrow, you only need to wait for the
> > > > radiator co cool so that you can open it.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "bpn" <bpn@nomailforme.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:vg69ovqjfqf142@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > > From the various research I have done on the cooling problems of
my
> > 1993
> > > > XJ
> > > > > 4.0L, I have decided to replace the radiator with a 3-core. Some
of
> > the
> > > > > posts I have read mention getting the air out (burping) of the
system.
> > > > What
> > > > > is the best way to do this? Trying to gather all the info I can
> > before I
> > > > > start this project
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>