Too bad. Ordinary RTV silicone is eventually going to be your enemy. It
off-gasses acetic acid (last time we discussed this one poster told of his
aerospace experiments which showed that the stuff never really stops
off-gassing) and will eventually rot in your windshield frame. It also
plays merry hell with electronics and is a well-known killer of engine
emissions sensors. I'd also be a bit worried about the RTV between the
windshield rubber and the frame forming a `pond liner' under your
windshield frame and holding water up against the metal. If I was going
to caulk there I'd only do the leading edge and leave the cabin side open
to drain.

If you've just got to use some sort of RTV caulk, be sure it is labled for
windshield use.

I'm having a hard time grasping how so much water is entering the top of
your windshield at the channel. It isn't unusual for water to get behind
the glass seal and leak that way too.



On Thu, 25 Nov 2004, JohnE.P.--JEP wrote:

> Harry,
> my new replacement didnt come with the tape, so,
> yes silicone became my friend today,,,,acualy rtv,silicone,
> i dropped the windshield, and goodped all,,top and bottom, 9ll replace
> in spring, if the sun comes back out,,,
> then,,,got all back togeather,,,again,,,,,
> used the hose, and low and behold more waterfalls inside,,,grrrrrrr,
> so i finaly figured it was coming outove the winshield frame,
> its leaking "in" from where the softop meets the frame channel,
> ran out of caalking so i have to wait till tommorrow,
> but at least now i know where one of the major ones are,
> ,
> oh i drilled out the corners of my windshield frame on the inside,
> to let the water drain,,,alot of water,,
> ,
> thanks all, for the support,
> johnp
>
> "HarryS" <NoSpam.com> wrote in message news:<S8OdnaJ6wtPIVTjcRVn-rQ@comcast.com>...
>> First try adjusting the bar to allow the window to pull back further to
>> compress the gasket and check your wiper motor cover ensure it is up tight
>> in the lip of the gasket this assists in compressing the gasket against the
>> top and bottom of the window.
>>
>> If all else fails and you do not need to drop your windshield silicone can
>> be your friend. Remove the gasket, run a bead around the complete
>> circumference of the dash mating area, replace the gasket, and do the same
>> around the bottom of the windshield. I did this on my CJ when it came time
>> to replace the gasket because aftermarket gaskets are not as good as the
>> OEMs. It should be as leak proof as a frogs butt.
>>
>> HarryS
>>
>> "JohnE.P.--JEP" <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:4c777fae.0411242003.743461c7@posting.google.c om...
>>> OK i need help, its raining like crazy and going to for the next five
>>> monthes,
>>> my cowl/winshield gasket was toast so i went and bought a new one at
>>> olymic 4X4
>>> (90YJ) i unhooked all my crap on the winshield,,bars,,and inside plates,
>>> softtop bars, rolled the top back, dropped the winshield unscrewed the old
>>> one,
>>> cleaned it all out dryed it all,
>>> then replaced it with the new one, making shure ithe lips were into the
>>> gasket
>>> and it was seated correctly,
>>> tilted the windshield back up and re-assembled it all,
>>> so now its been sitting outside in the pouring rain and ya you guessed it,
>>> my floor-boards are soaked,,and carpet, im dripping water from under the
>>> dash
>>> and
>>> from the corners by the plates above the speakers,
>>> ,
>>> i need help,,or my dash is gonna rot, or give up the electrical ghost,
>>> ,
>>> was i supposed to calk behind the outside lip?
>>> was i supposed to calk anywhere on the gasket,,top,,bottom??
>>> ,
>>> help, please,
>>> John Pike,
>>> email me at scope_addict "at" verizon "dot" net
>>> or here,
>>> anything quick would be most apriciated,, thanks again
>

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