Mike Romain

A butyl product is used to seal metal siding and windshields I believe.

The original 2 sided tape sure feels like a butyl product. Mine was
still flexible after over 15 years. It is not a foam 2 sided tape.

That 3M weatherstrip adhesive Bill mentions is freaking amazing stuff!
I used it to glue some chunks of 'rubber' foam flip flop on my cowl
corners to help hold my one piece front flip clip square 4 years ago and
the stuff hasn't budged.

I also just changed my cowl seal and didn't have any 2 sided tape and
mine leaks like a sieve right now. I was planning on using some of the
3M stuff, but but due to not being able to reach right now, I can't put
it in without making a mess so have left it leaky 'for now'.

Be warned. Where that stuff dries, it 'stays' so I am figuring on
running a tape line across the frame 'just' at the edge where the rubber
comes to.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"JohnE.P.--JEP" wrote:
>
> O.K. so back in the gerage and strip it all again,
> will sitka-flex calking work? the marine stuff,
> what do you recomend??
> ,
> i now have no leaking so i can just repeat with what adhesives??
> that wont ruin the metal?
>
> thanks,
> johnp
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<41A65162.3F10CBCD@sympatico.ca>...
> > I feel sorry for you.... RTV silicone just became your biggest
> > nightmare, not friend today....
> >
> > The stuff will cure and out gas for months/years. The gas is acetic
> > acid based. This will mix with any humidity or water and eat the steel
> > frame. This will rot it away fast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > "JohnE.P.--JEP" wrote:
> > >
> > > Harry,
> > > my new replacement didnt come with the tape, so,
> > > yes silicone became my friend today,,,,acualy rtv,silicone,
> > > i dropped the windshield, and goodped all,,top and bottom, 9ll replace
> > > in spring, if the sun comes back out,,,
> > > then,,,got all back togeather,,,again,,,,,
> > > used the hose, and low and behold more waterfalls inside,,,grrrrrrr,
> > > so i finaly figured it was coming outove the winshield frame,
> > > its leaking "in" from where the softop meets the frame channel,
> > > ran out of caalking so i have to wait till tommorrow,
> > > but at least now i know where one of the major ones are,
> > > ,
> > > oh i drilled out the corners of my windshield frame on the inside,
> > > to let the water drain,,,alot of water,,
> > > ,
> > > thanks all, for the support,
> > > johnp
> > >
> > > "HarryS" <NoSpam.com> wrote in message news:<S8OdnaJ6wtPIVTjcRVn-rQ@comcast.com>...
> > > > First try adjusting the bar to allow the window to pull back further to
> > > > compress the gasket and check your wiper motor cover ensure it is up tight
> > > > in the lip of the gasket this assists in compressing the gasket against the
> > > > top and bottom of the window.
> > > >
> > > > If all else fails and you do not need to drop your windshield silicone can
> > > > be your friend. Remove the gasket, run a bead around the complete
> > > > circumference of the dash mating area, replace the gasket, and do the same
> > > > around the bottom of the windshield. I did this on my CJ when it came time
> > > > to replace the gasket because aftermarket gaskets are not as good as the
> > > > OEMs. It should be as leak proof as a frogs butt.
> > > >
> > > > HarryS
> > > >
> > > > "JohnE.P.--JEP" <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:4c777fae.0411242003.743461c7@posting.google.c om...
> > > > > OK i need help, its raining like crazy and going to for the next five
> > > > > monthes,
> > > > > my cowl/winshield gasket was toast so i went and bought a new one at
> > > > > olymic 4X4
> > > > > (90YJ) i unhooked all my crap on the winshield,,bars,,and inside plates,
> > > > > softtop bars, rolled the top back, dropped the winshield unscrewed the old
> > > > > one,
> > > > > cleaned it all out dryed it all,
> > > > > then replaced it with the new one, making shure ithe lips were into the
> > > > > gasket
> > > > > and it was seated correctly,
> > > > > tilted the windshield back up and re-assembled it all,
> > > > > so now its been sitting outside in the pouring rain and ya you guessed it,
> > > > > my floor-boards are soaked,,and carpet, im dripping water from under the
> > > > > dash
> > > > > and
> > > > > from the corners by the plates above the speakers,
> > > > > ,
> > > > > i need help,,or my dash is gonna rot, or give up the electrical ghost,
> > > > > ,
> > > > > was i supposed to calk behind the outside lip?
> > > > > was i supposed to calk anywhere on the gasket,,top,,bottom??
> > > > > ,
> > > > > help, please,
> > > > > John Pike,
> > > > > email me at scope_addict "at" verizon "dot" net
> > > > > or here,
> > > > > anything quick would be most apriciated,, thanks again

Mike Romain

A butyl product is used to seal metal siding and windshields I believe.

The original 2 sided tape sure feels like a butyl product. Mine was
still flexible after over 15 years. It is not a foam 2 sided tape.

That 3M weatherstrip adhesive Bill mentions is freaking amazing stuff!
I used it to glue some chunks of 'rubber' foam flip flop on my cowl
corners to help hold my one piece front flip clip square 4 years ago and
the stuff hasn't budged.

I also just changed my cowl seal and didn't have any 2 sided tape and
mine leaks like a sieve right now. I was planning on using some of the
3M stuff, but but due to not being able to reach right now, I can't put
it in without making a mess so have left it leaky 'for now'.

Be warned. Where that stuff dries, it 'stays' so I am figuring on
running a tape line across the frame 'just' at the edge where the rubber
comes to.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"JohnE.P.--JEP" wrote:
>
> O.K. so back in the gerage and strip it all again,
> will sitka-flex calking work? the marine stuff,
> what do you recomend??
> ,
> i now have no leaking so i can just repeat with what adhesives??
> that wont ruin the metal?
>
> thanks,
> johnp
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<41A65162.3F10CBCD@sympatico.ca>...
> > I feel sorry for you.... RTV silicone just became your biggest
> > nightmare, not friend today....
> >
> > The stuff will cure and out gas for months/years. The gas is acetic
> > acid based. This will mix with any humidity or water and eat the steel
> > frame. This will rot it away fast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > "JohnE.P.--JEP" wrote:
> > >
> > > Harry,
> > > my new replacement didnt come with the tape, so,
> > > yes silicone became my friend today,,,,acualy rtv,silicone,
> > > i dropped the windshield, and goodped all,,top and bottom, 9ll replace
> > > in spring, if the sun comes back out,,,
> > > then,,,got all back togeather,,,again,,,,,
> > > used the hose, and low and behold more waterfalls inside,,,grrrrrrr,
> > > so i finaly figured it was coming outove the winshield frame,
> > > its leaking "in" from where the softop meets the frame channel,
> > > ran out of caalking so i have to wait till tommorrow,
> > > but at least now i know where one of the major ones are,
> > > ,
> > > oh i drilled out the corners of my windshield frame on the inside,
> > > to let the water drain,,,alot of water,,
> > > ,
> > > thanks all, for the support,
> > > johnp
> > >
> > > "HarryS" <NoSpam.com> wrote in message news:<S8OdnaJ6wtPIVTjcRVn-rQ@comcast.com>...
> > > > First try adjusting the bar to allow the window to pull back further to
> > > > compress the gasket and check your wiper motor cover ensure it is up tight
> > > > in the lip of the gasket this assists in compressing the gasket against the
> > > > top and bottom of the window.
> > > >
> > > > If all else fails and you do not need to drop your windshield silicone can
> > > > be your friend. Remove the gasket, run a bead around the complete
> > > > circumference of the dash mating area, replace the gasket, and do the same
> > > > around the bottom of the windshield. I did this on my CJ when it came time
> > > > to replace the gasket because aftermarket gaskets are not as good as the
> > > > OEMs. It should be as leak proof as a frogs butt.
> > > >
> > > > HarryS
> > > >
> > > > "JohnE.P.--JEP" <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:4c777fae.0411242003.743461c7@posting.google.c om...
> > > > > OK i need help, its raining like crazy and going to for the next five
> > > > > monthes,
> > > > > my cowl/winshield gasket was toast so i went and bought a new one at
> > > > > olymic 4X4
> > > > > (90YJ) i unhooked all my crap on the winshield,,bars,,and inside plates,
> > > > > softtop bars, rolled the top back, dropped the winshield unscrewed the old
> > > > > one,
> > > > > cleaned it all out dryed it all,
> > > > > then replaced it with the new one, making shure ithe lips were into the
> > > > > gasket
> > > > > and it was seated correctly,
> > > > > tilted the windshield back up and re-assembled it all,
> > > > > so now its been sitting outside in the pouring rain and ya you guessed it,
> > > > > my floor-boards are soaked,,and carpet, im dripping water from under the
> > > > > dash
> > > > > and
> > > > > from the corners by the plates above the speakers,
> > > > > ,
> > > > > i need help,,or my dash is gonna rot, or give up the electrical ghost,
> > > > > ,
> > > > > was i supposed to calk behind the outside lip?
> > > > > was i supposed to calk anywhere on the gasket,,top,,bottom??
> > > > > ,
> > > > > help, please,
> > > > > John Pike,
> > > > > email me at scope_addict "at" verizon "dot" net
> > > > > or here,
> > > > > anything quick would be most apriciated,, thanks again

Paul Calman

> That 3M weatherstrip adhesive Bill mentions is freaking amazing stuff!

Elephant Snot! Been using it for years. Great for sticking things together
permanently, like weatherstripping, but takes all day to really bond. I have
cleaned out a lot of VW valve covers some idoits glued in with gaskets it,
it's a lot of work when Gaska-cinch does a great job and comes off easily.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

Paul Calman

> That 3M weatherstrip adhesive Bill mentions is freaking amazing stuff!

Elephant Snot! Been using it for years. Great for sticking things together
permanently, like weatherstripping, but takes all day to really bond. I have
cleaned out a lot of VW valve covers some idoits glued in with gaskets it,
it's a lot of work when Gaska-cinch does a great job and comes off easily.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

Paul Calman

> That 3M weatherstrip adhesive Bill mentions is freaking amazing stuff!

Elephant Snot! Been using it for years. Great for sticking things together
permanently, like weatherstripping, but takes all day to really bond. I have
cleaned out a lot of VW valve covers some idoits glued in with gaskets it,
it's a lot of work when Gaska-cinch does a great job and comes off easily.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

Mike Romain

Paul Calman wrote:
>
> > That 3M weatherstrip adhesive Bill mentions is freaking amazing stuff!
>
> Elephant Snot! Been using it for years. Great for sticking things together
> permanently, like weatherstripping, but takes all day to really bond. I have
> cleaned out a lot of VW valve covers some idoits glued in with gaskets it,
> it's a lot of work when Gaska-cinch does a great job and comes off easily.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

The stuff I got was a permatex brand I believe and it applied like
contact cement which is why I haven't been able to put it on 'after the
fact' due to reaching limits. Gotta hold the lip open while it dries.
If I dropped the frame down and took it off to do it right, no problems.

I think they called my stuff 'gorilla snot', so it sure sounds like the
same goop.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike Romain

Paul Calman wrote:
>
> > That 3M weatherstrip adhesive Bill mentions is freaking amazing stuff!
>
> Elephant Snot! Been using it for years. Great for sticking things together
> permanently, like weatherstripping, but takes all day to really bond. I have
> cleaned out a lot of VW valve covers some idoits glued in with gaskets it,
> it's a lot of work when Gaska-cinch does a great job and comes off easily.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

The stuff I got was a permatex brand I believe and it applied like
contact cement which is why I haven't been able to put it on 'after the
fact' due to reaching limits. Gotta hold the lip open while it dries.
If I dropped the frame down and took it off to do it right, no problems.

I think they called my stuff 'gorilla snot', so it sure sounds like the
same goop.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike Romain

Paul Calman wrote:
>
> > That 3M weatherstrip adhesive Bill mentions is freaking amazing stuff!
>
> Elephant Snot! Been using it for years. Great for sticking things together
> permanently, like weatherstripping, but takes all day to really bond. I have
> cleaned out a lot of VW valve covers some idoits glued in with gaskets it,
> it's a lot of work when Gaska-cinch does a great job and comes off easily.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

The stuff I got was a permatex brand I believe and it applied like
contact cement which is why I haven't been able to put it on 'after the
fact' due to reaching limits. Gotta hold the lip open while it dries.
If I dropped the frame down and took it off to do it right, no problems.

I think they called my stuff 'gorilla snot', so it sure sounds like the
same goop.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Lee Ayrton

Too bad. Ordinary RTV silicone is eventually going to be your enemy. It
off-gasses acetic acid (last time we discussed this one poster told of his
aerospace experiments which showed that the stuff never really stops
off-gassing) and will eventually rot in your windshield frame. It also
plays merry hell with electronics and is a well-known killer of engine
emissions sensors. I'd also be a bit worried about the RTV between the
windshield rubber and the frame forming a `pond liner' under your
windshield frame and holding water up against the metal. If I was going
to caulk there I'd only do the leading edge and leave the cabin side open
to drain.

If you've just got to use some sort of RTV caulk, be sure it is labled for
windshield use.

I'm having a hard time grasping how so much water is entering the top of
your windshield at the channel. It isn't unusual for water to get behind
the glass seal and leak that way too.



On Thu, 25 Nov 2004, JohnE.P.--JEP wrote:

> Harry,
> my new replacement didnt come with the tape, so,
> yes silicone became my friend today,,,,acualy rtv,silicone,
> i dropped the windshield, and goodped all,,top and bottom, 9ll replace
> in spring, if the sun comes back out,,,
> then,,,got all back togeather,,,again,,,,,
> used the hose, and low and behold more waterfalls inside,,,grrrrrrr,
> so i finaly figured it was coming outove the winshield frame,
> its leaking "in" from where the softop meets the frame channel,
> ran out of caalking so i have to wait till tommorrow,
> but at least now i know where one of the major ones are,
> ,
> oh i drilled out the corners of my windshield frame on the inside,
> to let the water drain,,,alot of water,,
> ,
> thanks all, for the support,
> johnp
>
> "HarryS" <NoSpam.com> wrote in message news:<S8OdnaJ6wtPIVTjcRVn-rQ@comcast.com>...
>> First try adjusting the bar to allow the window to pull back further to
>> compress the gasket and check your wiper motor cover ensure it is up tight
>> in the lip of the gasket this assists in compressing the gasket against the
>> top and bottom of the window.
>>
>> If all else fails and you do not need to drop your windshield silicone can
>> be your friend. Remove the gasket, run a bead around the complete
>> circumference of the dash mating area, replace the gasket, and do the same
>> around the bottom of the windshield. I did this on my CJ when it came time
>> to replace the gasket because aftermarket gaskets are not as good as the
>> OEMs. It should be as leak proof as a frogs butt.
>>
>> HarryS
>>
>> "JohnE.P.--JEP" <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:4c777fae.0411242003.743461c7@posting.google.c om...
>>> OK i need help, its raining like crazy and going to for the next five
>>> monthes,
>>> my cowl/winshield gasket was toast so i went and bought a new one at
>>> olymic 4X4
>>> (90YJ) i unhooked all my crap on the winshield,,bars,,and inside plates,
>>> softtop bars, rolled the top back, dropped the winshield unscrewed the old
>>> one,
>>> cleaned it all out dryed it all,
>>> then replaced it with the new one, making shure ithe lips were into the
>>> gasket
>>> and it was seated correctly,
>>> tilted the windshield back up and re-assembled it all,
>>> so now its been sitting outside in the pouring rain and ya you guessed it,
>>> my floor-boards are soaked,,and carpet, im dripping water from under the
>>> dash
>>> and
>>> from the corners by the plates above the speakers,
>>> ,
>>> i need help,,or my dash is gonna rot, or give up the electrical ghost,
>>> ,
>>> was i supposed to calk behind the outside lip?
>>> was i supposed to calk anywhere on the gasket,,top,,bottom??
>>> ,
>>> help, please,
>>> John Pike,
>>> email me at scope_addict "at" verizon "dot" net
>>> or here,
>>> anything quick would be most apriciated,, thanks again
>

--
Some conditions apply. YMMV. This message was packed by weight, not
by volume. TWIAVBP, local variation may occur. Dramatization, not a real
authority. Do not induce vomiting. No user-serviceable words inside.

Lee Ayrton

Too bad. Ordinary RTV silicone is eventually going to be your enemy. It
off-gasses acetic acid (last time we discussed this one poster told of his
aerospace experiments which showed that the stuff never really stops
off-gassing) and will eventually rot in your windshield frame. It also
plays merry hell with electronics and is a well-known killer of engine
emissions sensors. I'd also be a bit worried about the RTV between the
windshield rubber and the frame forming a `pond liner' under your
windshield frame and holding water up against the metal. If I was going
to caulk there I'd only do the leading edge and leave the cabin side open
to drain.

If you've just got to use some sort of RTV caulk, be sure it is labled for
windshield use.

I'm having a hard time grasping how so much water is entering the top of
your windshield at the channel. It isn't unusual for water to get behind
the glass seal and leak that way too.



On Thu, 25 Nov 2004, JohnE.P.--JEP wrote:

> Harry,
> my new replacement didnt come with the tape, so,
> yes silicone became my friend today,,,,acualy rtv,silicone,
> i dropped the windshield, and goodped all,,top and bottom, 9ll replace
> in spring, if the sun comes back out,,,
> then,,,got all back togeather,,,again,,,,,
> used the hose, and low and behold more waterfalls inside,,,grrrrrrr,
> so i finaly figured it was coming outove the winshield frame,
> its leaking "in" from where the softop meets the frame channel,
> ran out of caalking so i have to wait till tommorrow,
> but at least now i know where one of the major ones are,
> ,
> oh i drilled out the corners of my windshield frame on the inside,
> to let the water drain,,,alot of water,,
> ,
> thanks all, for the support,
> johnp
>
> "HarryS" <NoSpam.com> wrote in message news:<S8OdnaJ6wtPIVTjcRVn-rQ@comcast.com>...
>> First try adjusting the bar to allow the window to pull back further to
>> compress the gasket and check your wiper motor cover ensure it is up tight
>> in the lip of the gasket this assists in compressing the gasket against the
>> top and bottom of the window.
>>
>> If all else fails and you do not need to drop your windshield silicone can
>> be your friend. Remove the gasket, run a bead around the complete
>> circumference of the dash mating area, replace the gasket, and do the same
>> around the bottom of the windshield. I did this on my CJ when it came time
>> to replace the gasket because aftermarket gaskets are not as good as the
>> OEMs. It should be as leak proof as a frogs butt.
>>
>> HarryS
>>
>> "JohnE.P.--JEP" <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:4c777fae.0411242003.743461c7@posting.google.c om...
>>> OK i need help, its raining like crazy and going to for the next five
>>> monthes,
>>> my cowl/winshield gasket was toast so i went and bought a new one at
>>> olymic 4X4
>>> (90YJ) i unhooked all my crap on the winshield,,bars,,and inside plates,
>>> softtop bars, rolled the top back, dropped the winshield unscrewed the old
>>> one,
>>> cleaned it all out dryed it all,
>>> then replaced it with the new one, making shure ithe lips were into the
>>> gasket
>>> and it was seated correctly,
>>> tilted the windshield back up and re-assembled it all,
>>> so now its been sitting outside in the pouring rain and ya you guessed it,
>>> my floor-boards are soaked,,and carpet, im dripping water from under the
>>> dash
>>> and
>>> from the corners by the plates above the speakers,
>>> ,
>>> i need help,,or my dash is gonna rot, or give up the electrical ghost,
>>> ,
>>> was i supposed to calk behind the outside lip?
>>> was i supposed to calk anywhere on the gasket,,top,,bottom??
>>> ,
>>> help, please,
>>> John Pike,
>>> email me at scope_addict "at" verizon "dot" net
>>> or here,
>>> anything quick would be most apriciated,, thanks again
>

--
Some conditions apply. YMMV. This message was packed by weight, not
by volume. TWIAVBP, local variation may occur. Dramatization, not a real
authority. Do not induce vomiting. No user-serviceable words inside.