That also could be a sticky EGR valve. They can act like that if gummed
up. You could always pull the vacuum line off it to see.

Mike

Rob wrote:
>
> I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
> something I noticed today.
>
> I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
> at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
> itself.)
>
> I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
> minor corrosion on the rotor.
>
> I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
> wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.
>
> Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
> cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
> backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
> could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
> how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)
>
> On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
> >distributor cap for oil.
> >
> >I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
> >
> >For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
> >too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
> >the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
> >can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
> >also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Rob wrote:
> >>
> >> That does sound like a nightmare.
> >>
> >> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
> >> with a Holley carb:
> >> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
> >>
> >> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
> >> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
> >> color, others more reddish brown.
> >>
> >> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
> >>
> >> Thanks again,
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
> >> >
> >> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
> >> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
> >> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
> >> >
> >> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
> >> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
> >> >
> >> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
> >> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
> >> >issues with one engine, etc...
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >Rob wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
> >> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
> >> >> an idle.
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks again,
> >> >>
> >> >> Rob
> >> >>
> >> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
> >> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
> >> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
> >> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
> >> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
> >> >> >if its full or not.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
> >> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
> >> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
> >> >> >the intake manifold.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
> >> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
> >> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
> >> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
> >> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Rob
> >> >> >

 

That also could be a sticky EGR valve. They can act like that if gummed
up. You could always pull the vacuum line off it to see.

Mike

Rob wrote:
>
> I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
> something I noticed today.
>
> I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
> at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
> itself.)
>
> I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
> minor corrosion on the rotor.
>
> I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
> wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.
>
> Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
> cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
> backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
> could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
> how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)
>
> On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
> >distributor cap for oil.
> >
> >I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
> >
> >For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
> >too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
> >the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
> >can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
> >also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Rob wrote:
> >>
> >> That does sound like a nightmare.
> >>
> >> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
> >> with a Holley carb:
> >> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
> >>
> >> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
> >> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
> >> color, others more reddish brown.
> >>
> >> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
> >>
> >> Thanks again,
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
> >> >
> >> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
> >> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
> >> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
> >> >
> >> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
> >> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
> >> >
> >> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
> >> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
> >> >issues with one engine, etc...
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >Rob wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
> >> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
> >> >> an idle.
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks again,
> >> >>
> >> >> Rob
> >> >>
> >> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
> >> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
> >> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
> >> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
> >> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
> >> >> >if its full or not.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
> >> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
> >> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
> >> >> >the intake manifold.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
> >> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
> >> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
> >> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
> >> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Rob
> >> >> >

 

That also could be a sticky EGR valve. They can act like that if gummed
up. You could always pull the vacuum line off it to see.

Mike

Rob wrote:
>
> I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
> something I noticed today.
>
> I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
> at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
> itself.)
>
> I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
> minor corrosion on the rotor.
>
> I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
> wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.
>
> Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
> cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
> backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
> could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
> how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)
>
> On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
> >distributor cap for oil.
> >
> >I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
> >
> >For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
> >too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
> >the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
> >can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
> >also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Rob wrote:
> >>
> >> That does sound like a nightmare.
> >>
> >> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
> >> with a Holley carb:
> >> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
> >>
> >> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
> >> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
> >> color, others more reddish brown.
> >>
> >> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
> >>
> >> Thanks again,
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
> >> >
> >> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
> >> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
> >> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
> >> >
> >> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
> >> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
> >> >
> >> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
> >> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
> >> >issues with one engine, etc...
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >Rob wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
> >> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
> >> >> an idle.
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks again,
> >> >>
> >> >> Rob
> >> >>
> >> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
> >> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
> >> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
> >> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
> >> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
> >> >> >if its full or not.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
> >> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
> >> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
> >> >> >the intake manifold.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
> >> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
> >> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
> >> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
> >> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Rob
> >> >> >

 

I checked for the EGR valve and realized that along with the Holley
carb, the previous owner aslo installed an Offenhauser intake and I
believe the EGR valve is part of the stock intake. I'm not sure if
this one has the plumbing for the EGRvalve or if I just don't know
what to look for.

Also, there's a chrome covered cap/canister just behind the oil fill
hole on the vlve cover that seems to contain a filter. What is that
for? It seems pretty gummed with oil, though if I blow into the part
that goes int the valve cover air passed through ok.

On Tue, 18 May 2004 19:36:30 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>That also could be a sticky EGR valve. They can act like that if gummed
>up. You could always pull the vacuum line off it to see.
>
>Mike
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
>> something I noticed today.
>>
>> I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
>> at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
>> itself.)
>>
>> I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
>> minor corrosion on the rotor.
>>
>> I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
>> wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.
>>
>> Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
>> cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
>> backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
>> could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
>> how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)
>>
>> On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
>> >distributor cap for oil.
>> >
>> >I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
>> >
>> >For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
>> >too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
>> >the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
>> >can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
>> >also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Rob wrote:
>> >>
>> >> That does sound like a nightmare.
>> >>
>> >> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
>> >> with a Holley carb:
>> >> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>> >>
>> >> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
>> >> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
>> >> color, others more reddish brown.
>> >>
>> >> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks again,
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >>
>> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
>> >> >
>> >> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
>> >> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
>> >> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
>> >> >
>> >> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
>> >> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
>> >> >
>> >> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
>> >> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
>> >> >issues with one engine, etc...
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Rob wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>> >> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>> >> >> an idle.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thanks again,
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Rob
>> >> >>
>> >> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>> >> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>> >> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>> >> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>> >> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>> >> >> >if its full or not.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>> >> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>> >> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>> >> >> >the intake manifold.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>> >> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>> >> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>> >> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>> >> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Rob
>> >> >> >

 

I checked for the EGR valve and realized that along with the Holley
carb, the previous owner aslo installed an Offenhauser intake and I
believe the EGR valve is part of the stock intake. I'm not sure if
this one has the plumbing for the EGRvalve or if I just don't know
what to look for.

Also, there's a chrome covered cap/canister just behind the oil fill
hole on the vlve cover that seems to contain a filter. What is that
for? It seems pretty gummed with oil, though if I blow into the part
that goes int the valve cover air passed through ok.

On Tue, 18 May 2004 19:36:30 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>That also could be a sticky EGR valve. They can act like that if gummed
>up. You could always pull the vacuum line off it to see.
>
>Mike
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
>> something I noticed today.
>>
>> I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
>> at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
>> itself.)
>>
>> I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
>> minor corrosion on the rotor.
>>
>> I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
>> wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.
>>
>> Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
>> cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
>> backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
>> could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
>> how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)
>>
>> On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
>> >distributor cap for oil.
>> >
>> >I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
>> >
>> >For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
>> >too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
>> >the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
>> >can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
>> >also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Rob wrote:
>> >>
>> >> That does sound like a nightmare.
>> >>
>> >> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
>> >> with a Holley carb:
>> >> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>> >>
>> >> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
>> >> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
>> >> color, others more reddish brown.
>> >>
>> >> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks again,
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >>
>> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
>> >> >
>> >> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
>> >> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
>> >> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
>> >> >
>> >> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
>> >> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
>> >> >
>> >> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
>> >> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
>> >> >issues with one engine, etc...
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Rob wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>> >> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>> >> >> an idle.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thanks again,
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Rob
>> >> >>
>> >> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>> >> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>> >> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>> >> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>> >> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>> >> >> >if its full or not.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>> >> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>> >> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>> >> >> >the intake manifold.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>> >> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>> >> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>> >> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>> >> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Rob
>> >> >> >

 

I checked for the EGR valve and realized that along with the Holley
carb, the previous owner aslo installed an Offenhauser intake and I
believe the EGR valve is part of the stock intake. I'm not sure if
this one has the plumbing for the EGRvalve or if I just don't know
what to look for.

Also, there's a chrome covered cap/canister just behind the oil fill
hole on the vlve cover that seems to contain a filter. What is that
for? It seems pretty gummed with oil, though if I blow into the part
that goes int the valve cover air passed through ok.

On Tue, 18 May 2004 19:36:30 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>That also could be a sticky EGR valve. They can act like that if gummed
>up. You could always pull the vacuum line off it to see.
>
>Mike
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
>> something I noticed today.
>>
>> I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
>> at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
>> itself.)
>>
>> I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
>> minor corrosion on the rotor.
>>
>> I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
>> wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.
>>
>> Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
>> cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
>> backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
>> could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
>> how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)
>>
>> On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
>> >distributor cap for oil.
>> >
>> >I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
>> >
>> >For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
>> >too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
>> >the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
>> >can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
>> >also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Rob wrote:
>> >>
>> >> That does sound like a nightmare.
>> >>
>> >> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
>> >> with a Holley carb:
>> >> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>> >>
>> >> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
>> >> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
>> >> color, others more reddish brown.
>> >>
>> >> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks again,
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >>
>> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
>> >> >
>> >> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
>> >> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
>> >> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
>> >> >
>> >> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
>> >> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
>> >> >
>> >> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
>> >> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
>> >> >issues with one engine, etc...
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Rob wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>> >> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>> >> >> an idle.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thanks again,
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Rob
>> >> >>
>> >> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>> >> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>> >> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>> >> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>> >> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>> >> >> >if its full or not.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>> >> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>> >> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>> >> >> >the intake manifold.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>> >> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>> >> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>> >> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>> >> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Rob
>> >> >> >

 

I checked for the EGR valve and realized that along with the Holley
carb, the previous owner aslo installed an Offenhauser intake and I
believe the EGR valve is part of the stock intake. I'm not sure if
this one has the plumbing for the EGRvalve or if I just don't know
what to look for.

Also, there's a chrome covered cap/canister just behind the oil fill
hole on the vlve cover that seems to contain a filter. What is that
for? It seems pretty gummed with oil, though if I blow into the part
that goes int the valve cover air passed through ok.

On Tue, 18 May 2004 19:36:30 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>That also could be a sticky EGR valve. They can act like that if gummed
>up. You could always pull the vacuum line off it to see.
>
>Mike
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
>> something I noticed today.
>>
>> I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
>> at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
>> itself.)
>>
>> I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
>> minor corrosion on the rotor.
>>
>> I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
>> wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.
>>
>> Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
>> cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
>> backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
>> could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
>> how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)
>>
>> On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
>> >distributor cap for oil.
>> >
>> >I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
>> >
>> >For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
>> >too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
>> >the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
>> >can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
>> >also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Rob wrote:
>> >>
>> >> That does sound like a nightmare.
>> >>
>> >> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
>> >> with a Holley carb:
>> >> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>> >>
>> >> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
>> >> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
>> >> color, others more reddish brown.
>> >>
>> >> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks again,
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >>
>> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
>> >> >
>> >> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
>> >> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
>> >> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
>> >> >
>> >> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
>> >> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
>> >> >
>> >> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
>> >> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
>> >> >issues with one engine, etc...
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Rob wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>> >> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>> >> >> an idle.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thanks again,
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Rob
>> >> >>
>> >> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>> >> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>> >> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>> >> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>> >> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>> >> >> >if its full or not.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>> >> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>> >> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>> >> >> >the intake manifold.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>> >> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>> >> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>> >> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>> >> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Rob
>> >> >> >

 

Well, the mystery is solved, but not without its own problems. The
owner says he changed filters just a couple weeks prior to my coming
to get the Jeep. In a desparation attempt, I changed the fuel filter
and sure enough, a bunch of rust came out of the old and it began
running fine with the new filter - for about 5 minutes then the same
problem.

I'm assuming rust in the tank - do you guys recommend something to fix
this tak, replace with another metal tank, or going plastic?

Any issues to be aware of if I go from 15 to 21 gallons?

Thanks,

Rob


On Mon, 17 May 2004 03:02:55 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:

>Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>an idle.
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Rob
>
>
>On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>>was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>>and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>>
>>Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>>the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>>he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>>if its full or not.
>>
>>Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>>the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>>
>>It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>>running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>>the intake manifold.
>>
>>I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>>damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>>some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>>idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>>
>>Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>>the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>>
>>Rob
>>

 

Well, the mystery is solved, but not without its own problems. The
owner says he changed filters just a couple weeks prior to my coming
to get the Jeep. In a desparation attempt, I changed the fuel filter
and sure enough, a bunch of rust came out of the old and it began
running fine with the new filter - for about 5 minutes then the same
problem.

I'm assuming rust in the tank - do you guys recommend something to fix
this tak, replace with another metal tank, or going plastic?

Any issues to be aware of if I go from 15 to 21 gallons?

Thanks,

Rob


On Mon, 17 May 2004 03:02:55 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:

>Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>an idle.
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Rob
>
>
>On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>>was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>>and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>>
>>Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>>the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>>he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>>if its full or not.
>>
>>Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>>the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>>
>>It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>>running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>>the intake manifold.
>>
>>I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>>damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>>some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>>idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>>
>>Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>>the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>>
>>Rob
>>

 

Well, the mystery is solved, but not without its own problems. The
owner says he changed filters just a couple weeks prior to my coming
to get the Jeep. In a desparation attempt, I changed the fuel filter
and sure enough, a bunch of rust came out of the old and it began
running fine with the new filter - for about 5 minutes then the same
problem.

I'm assuming rust in the tank - do you guys recommend something to fix
this tak, replace with another metal tank, or going plastic?

Any issues to be aware of if I go from 15 to 21 gallons?

Thanks,

Rob


On Mon, 17 May 2004 03:02:55 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:

>Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>an idle.
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Rob
>
>
>On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>>was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>>and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>>
>>Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>>the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>>he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>>if its full or not.
>>
>>Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>>the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>>
>>It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>>running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>>the intake manifold.
>>
>>I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>>damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>>some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>>idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>>
>>Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>>the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>>
>>Rob
>>