Heated Garage or not?
12-03-2004, 03:56 PM
#81
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Heated Garage or not?
I bet if you read the instructions it says to ventilate.....
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 12:52:22 -0500, FrankW <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote:
>Funny that they sell those heaters when they are that dangerous
>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>
>> I sure wouldn't run one even in a leaky garage without a CO monitor or a
>> door cracked open.
>>
>> Most garage doors that I have seen crack open at the top at the same
>> time or even faster as the bottom gets cracked open, so it only needs a
>> little opening to be effective. In this case the gas wouldn't be
>> trapped up high. That is what the last poster was talking about.
>>
>> The OP was talking about an insulated garage that likely is pretty air
>> tight.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> JimG wrote:
>>
>>>You might be over-protective. I have been using a kerosene heater in my
>>>garage for years, and don't even crack the door... I ain't dead yet! (but my
>>>garage doors as most, don't seal air tight and do allow some fresh air in).
>>>
>>>A properly maintained heater does not emit that much CO. After all, CO is a
>>>product of incomplete combustion.
>>>
>>>"since CO is lighter than air, can KILL YOU" - Since when dose the specific
>>>gravity a gas have anything to do with whether it fatal or not? CO is
>>>actually very close to density as that of air.
>>>
>>>http://www.coheadquarters.com/coproperties.htm
>>>
>>>--
>>>JimG
>>>80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
>>>4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
>>>35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
>>>D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
>>>Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
>>>Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>>>
>>>00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
>>>4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
>>>33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
>>>D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
>>>
>>>"wkearney99" wrote in message ...
>>>
>>>>Which, since CO is lighter than air, can KILL YOU.
>>>>
>>>>Do not just crack the bottom of a door and think the CO will be
>>>>dissapated.
>>>>Or go ahead, just make sure your life insurance is paid up so someone else
>>>>benefits from the mistake.
>>>>
>>>>At the very least make sure you've got a working CO detector in the upper
>>>>rooms of the house and in the bedrooms.
>>>>
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 12:52:22 -0500, FrankW <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote:
>Funny that they sell those heaters when they are that dangerous
>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>
>> I sure wouldn't run one even in a leaky garage without a CO monitor or a
>> door cracked open.
>>
>> Most garage doors that I have seen crack open at the top at the same
>> time or even faster as the bottom gets cracked open, so it only needs a
>> little opening to be effective. In this case the gas wouldn't be
>> trapped up high. That is what the last poster was talking about.
>>
>> The OP was talking about an insulated garage that likely is pretty air
>> tight.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> JimG wrote:
>>
>>>You might be over-protective. I have been using a kerosene heater in my
>>>garage for years, and don't even crack the door... I ain't dead yet! (but my
>>>garage doors as most, don't seal air tight and do allow some fresh air in).
>>>
>>>A properly maintained heater does not emit that much CO. After all, CO is a
>>>product of incomplete combustion.
>>>
>>>"since CO is lighter than air, can KILL YOU" - Since when dose the specific
>>>gravity a gas have anything to do with whether it fatal or not? CO is
>>>actually very close to density as that of air.
>>>
>>>http://www.coheadquarters.com/coproperties.htm
>>>
>>>--
>>>JimG
>>>80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
>>>4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
>>>35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
>>>D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
>>>Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
>>>Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>>>
>>>00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
>>>4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
>>>33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
>>>D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
>>>
>>>"wkearney99" wrote in message ...
>>>
>>>>Which, since CO is lighter than air, can KILL YOU.
>>>>
>>>>Do not just crack the bottom of a door and think the CO will be
>>>>dissapated.
>>>>Or go ahead, just make sure your life insurance is paid up so someone else
>>>>benefits from the mistake.
>>>>
>>>>At the very least make sure you've got a working CO detector in the upper
>>>>rooms of the house and in the bedrooms.
>>>>
12-03-2004, 03:56 PM
#82
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Heated Garage or not?
I bet if you read the instructions it says to ventilate.....
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 12:52:22 -0500, FrankW <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote:
>Funny that they sell those heaters when they are that dangerous
>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>
>> I sure wouldn't run one even in a leaky garage without a CO monitor or a
>> door cracked open.
>>
>> Most garage doors that I have seen crack open at the top at the same
>> time or even faster as the bottom gets cracked open, so it only needs a
>> little opening to be effective. In this case the gas wouldn't be
>> trapped up high. That is what the last poster was talking about.
>>
>> The OP was talking about an insulated garage that likely is pretty air
>> tight.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> JimG wrote:
>>
>>>You might be over-protective. I have been using a kerosene heater in my
>>>garage for years, and don't even crack the door... I ain't dead yet! (but my
>>>garage doors as most, don't seal air tight and do allow some fresh air in).
>>>
>>>A properly maintained heater does not emit that much CO. After all, CO is a
>>>product of incomplete combustion.
>>>
>>>"since CO is lighter than air, can KILL YOU" - Since when dose the specific
>>>gravity a gas have anything to do with whether it fatal or not? CO is
>>>actually very close to density as that of air.
>>>
>>>http://www.coheadquarters.com/coproperties.htm
>>>
>>>--
>>>JimG
>>>80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
>>>4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
>>>35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
>>>D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
>>>Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
>>>Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>>>
>>>00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
>>>4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
>>>33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
>>>D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
>>>
>>>"wkearney99" wrote in message ...
>>>
>>>>Which, since CO is lighter than air, can KILL YOU.
>>>>
>>>>Do not just crack the bottom of a door and think the CO will be
>>>>dissapated.
>>>>Or go ahead, just make sure your life insurance is paid up so someone else
>>>>benefits from the mistake.
>>>>
>>>>At the very least make sure you've got a working CO detector in the upper
>>>>rooms of the house and in the bedrooms.
>>>>
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 12:52:22 -0500, FrankW <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote:
>Funny that they sell those heaters when they are that dangerous
>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>
>> I sure wouldn't run one even in a leaky garage without a CO monitor or a
>> door cracked open.
>>
>> Most garage doors that I have seen crack open at the top at the same
>> time or even faster as the bottom gets cracked open, so it only needs a
>> little opening to be effective. In this case the gas wouldn't be
>> trapped up high. That is what the last poster was talking about.
>>
>> The OP was talking about an insulated garage that likely is pretty air
>> tight.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> JimG wrote:
>>
>>>You might be over-protective. I have been using a kerosene heater in my
>>>garage for years, and don't even crack the door... I ain't dead yet! (but my
>>>garage doors as most, don't seal air tight and do allow some fresh air in).
>>>
>>>A properly maintained heater does not emit that much CO. After all, CO is a
>>>product of incomplete combustion.
>>>
>>>"since CO is lighter than air, can KILL YOU" - Since when dose the specific
>>>gravity a gas have anything to do with whether it fatal or not? CO is
>>>actually very close to density as that of air.
>>>
>>>http://www.coheadquarters.com/coproperties.htm
>>>
>>>--
>>>JimG
>>>80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
>>>4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
>>>35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
>>>D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
>>>Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
>>>Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>>>
>>>00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
>>>4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
>>>33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
>>>D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
>>>
>>>"wkearney99" wrote in message ...
>>>
>>>>Which, since CO is lighter than air, can KILL YOU.
>>>>
>>>>Do not just crack the bottom of a door and think the CO will be
>>>>dissapated.
>>>>Or go ahead, just make sure your life insurance is paid up so someone else
>>>>benefits from the mistake.
>>>>
>>>>At the very least make sure you've got a working CO detector in the upper
>>>>rooms of the house and in the bedrooms.
>>>>
12-03-2004, 05:18 PM
#83
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Heated Garage or not?
The reccomnded gas heater for my 3 car garage is 75,000 BTU. Lets see,
divide by 3.54 and that says 21,000 watts or 88 amps at 240 volts. Only
cost $1.70 per hour to run.
I suppose I could insulate the ceiling (and knock out the storage spaces
for my various ladders,etc)as well as the remaining two uninsulated
walls, replaced the doors with insulated units, weatherstrip them
properly, dig up the footings to install the subgrade foam board and I
would still have to deal with 16" or so of exposed concrete footer. Nah,
just put in the gas heater.
Jeepster wrote:
> Sounds like they were wired incorrectly.
> It gets to -30 here and with my insulated garage I can work out there
> in a t-shirt.
>
> On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 05:41:10 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>
>
>>I tried baseboard heaters, what a joke, pulled them out. A 20 amp 240
>>circuit can only deliever 6500 BTU's per hour without popping the breaker.
>>
>>Snow wrote:
>>
>>>Ever thought about adding in electric baseboard heaters?
>>>You could go all the way like the garage at my buds house in northern
>>>Ontario oil fired furnace with central air. The garage is about 1400 sq
>>>feet. He keeps his two classic cars, his spare parts vehicle, in the winter
>>>he also stores a boat for someone and in summer he has their sled. A second
>>>"extra" car sits out in the drive, which can fit about 8 vehicles.
>>>
>>>Snow...
>>>
>>>"Kevin S" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:a4ord.32$A81.6742@news.uswest.net...
>>>
>>>
>>>>I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
>>>>adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it
>>>
>>>for
>>>
>>>
>>>>$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
>>>>of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
>>>>other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have
>>>
>>>read
>>>
>>>
>>>>that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high
>>>
>>>salt
>>>
>>>
>>>>use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
>>>>would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my
>>>
>>>CJ-7.
>>>
>>>
>>>>Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>
>>>>winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
>>>>
>>>>Thoughts? Suggestions?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
divide by 3.54 and that says 21,000 watts or 88 amps at 240 volts. Only
cost $1.70 per hour to run.
I suppose I could insulate the ceiling (and knock out the storage spaces
for my various ladders,etc)as well as the remaining two uninsulated
walls, replaced the doors with insulated units, weatherstrip them
properly, dig up the footings to install the subgrade foam board and I
would still have to deal with 16" or so of exposed concrete footer. Nah,
just put in the gas heater.
Jeepster wrote:
> Sounds like they were wired incorrectly.
> It gets to -30 here and with my insulated garage I can work out there
> in a t-shirt.
>
> On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 05:41:10 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>
>
>>I tried baseboard heaters, what a joke, pulled them out. A 20 amp 240
>>circuit can only deliever 6500 BTU's per hour without popping the breaker.
>>
>>Snow wrote:
>>
>>>Ever thought about adding in electric baseboard heaters?
>>>You could go all the way like the garage at my buds house in northern
>>>Ontario oil fired furnace with central air. The garage is about 1400 sq
>>>feet. He keeps his two classic cars, his spare parts vehicle, in the winter
>>>he also stores a boat for someone and in summer he has their sled. A second
>>>"extra" car sits out in the drive, which can fit about 8 vehicles.
>>>
>>>Snow...
>>>
>>>"Kevin S" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:a4ord.32$A81.6742@news.uswest.net...
>>>
>>>
>>>>I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
>>>>adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it
>>>
>>>for
>>>
>>>
>>>>$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
>>>>of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
>>>>other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have
>>>
>>>read
>>>
>>>
>>>>that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high
>>>
>>>salt
>>>
>>>
>>>>use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
>>>>would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my
>>>
>>>CJ-7.
>>>
>>>
>>>>Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>
>>>>winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
>>>>
>>>>Thoughts? Suggestions?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
12-03-2004, 05:18 PM
#84
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Heated Garage or not?
The reccomnded gas heater for my 3 car garage is 75,000 BTU. Lets see,
divide by 3.54 and that says 21,000 watts or 88 amps at 240 volts. Only
cost $1.70 per hour to run.
I suppose I could insulate the ceiling (and knock out the storage spaces
for my various ladders,etc)as well as the remaining two uninsulated
walls, replaced the doors with insulated units, weatherstrip them
properly, dig up the footings to install the subgrade foam board and I
would still have to deal with 16" or so of exposed concrete footer. Nah,
just put in the gas heater.
Jeepster wrote:
> Sounds like they were wired incorrectly.
> It gets to -30 here and with my insulated garage I can work out there
> in a t-shirt.
>
> On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 05:41:10 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>
>
>>I tried baseboard heaters, what a joke, pulled them out. A 20 amp 240
>>circuit can only deliever 6500 BTU's per hour without popping the breaker.
>>
>>Snow wrote:
>>
>>>Ever thought about adding in electric baseboard heaters?
>>>You could go all the way like the garage at my buds house in northern
>>>Ontario oil fired furnace with central air. The garage is about 1400 sq
>>>feet. He keeps his two classic cars, his spare parts vehicle, in the winter
>>>he also stores a boat for someone and in summer he has their sled. A second
>>>"extra" car sits out in the drive, which can fit about 8 vehicles.
>>>
>>>Snow...
>>>
>>>"Kevin S" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:a4ord.32$A81.6742@news.uswest.net...
>>>
>>>
>>>>I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
>>>>adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it
>>>
>>>for
>>>
>>>
>>>>$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
>>>>of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
>>>>other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have
>>>
>>>read
>>>
>>>
>>>>that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high
>>>
>>>salt
>>>
>>>
>>>>use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
>>>>would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my
>>>
>>>CJ-7.
>>>
>>>
>>>>Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>
>>>>winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
>>>>
>>>>Thoughts? Suggestions?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
divide by 3.54 and that says 21,000 watts or 88 amps at 240 volts. Only
cost $1.70 per hour to run.
I suppose I could insulate the ceiling (and knock out the storage spaces
for my various ladders,etc)as well as the remaining two uninsulated
walls, replaced the doors with insulated units, weatherstrip them
properly, dig up the footings to install the subgrade foam board and I
would still have to deal with 16" or so of exposed concrete footer. Nah,
just put in the gas heater.
Jeepster wrote:
> Sounds like they were wired incorrectly.
> It gets to -30 here and with my insulated garage I can work out there
> in a t-shirt.
>
> On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 05:41:10 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>
>
>>I tried baseboard heaters, what a joke, pulled them out. A 20 amp 240
>>circuit can only deliever 6500 BTU's per hour without popping the breaker.
>>
>>Snow wrote:
>>
>>>Ever thought about adding in electric baseboard heaters?
>>>You could go all the way like the garage at my buds house in northern
>>>Ontario oil fired furnace with central air. The garage is about 1400 sq
>>>feet. He keeps his two classic cars, his spare parts vehicle, in the winter
>>>he also stores a boat for someone and in summer he has their sled. A second
>>>"extra" car sits out in the drive, which can fit about 8 vehicles.
>>>
>>>Snow...
>>>
>>>"Kevin S" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:a4ord.32$A81.6742@news.uswest.net...
>>>
>>>
>>>>I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
>>>>adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it
>>>
>>>for
>>>
>>>
>>>>$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
>>>>of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
>>>>other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have
>>>
>>>read
>>>
>>>
>>>>that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high
>>>
>>>salt
>>>
>>>
>>>>use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
>>>>would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my
>>>
>>>CJ-7.
>>>
>>>
>>>>Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>
>>>>winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
>>>>
>>>>Thoughts? Suggestions?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
12-03-2004, 05:18 PM
#85
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Heated Garage or not?
The reccomnded gas heater for my 3 car garage is 75,000 BTU. Lets see,
divide by 3.54 and that says 21,000 watts or 88 amps at 240 volts. Only
cost $1.70 per hour to run.
I suppose I could insulate the ceiling (and knock out the storage spaces
for my various ladders,etc)as well as the remaining two uninsulated
walls, replaced the doors with insulated units, weatherstrip them
properly, dig up the footings to install the subgrade foam board and I
would still have to deal with 16" or so of exposed concrete footer. Nah,
just put in the gas heater.
Jeepster wrote:
> Sounds like they were wired incorrectly.
> It gets to -30 here and with my insulated garage I can work out there
> in a t-shirt.
>
> On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 05:41:10 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>
>
>>I tried baseboard heaters, what a joke, pulled them out. A 20 amp 240
>>circuit can only deliever 6500 BTU's per hour without popping the breaker.
>>
>>Snow wrote:
>>
>>>Ever thought about adding in electric baseboard heaters?
>>>You could go all the way like the garage at my buds house in northern
>>>Ontario oil fired furnace with central air. The garage is about 1400 sq
>>>feet. He keeps his two classic cars, his spare parts vehicle, in the winter
>>>he also stores a boat for someone and in summer he has their sled. A second
>>>"extra" car sits out in the drive, which can fit about 8 vehicles.
>>>
>>>Snow...
>>>
>>>"Kevin S" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:a4ord.32$A81.6742@news.uswest.net...
>>>
>>>
>>>>I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
>>>>adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it
>>>
>>>for
>>>
>>>
>>>>$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
>>>>of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
>>>>other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have
>>>
>>>read
>>>
>>>
>>>>that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high
>>>
>>>salt
>>>
>>>
>>>>use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
>>>>would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my
>>>
>>>CJ-7.
>>>
>>>
>>>>Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>
>>>>winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
>>>>
>>>>Thoughts? Suggestions?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
divide by 3.54 and that says 21,000 watts or 88 amps at 240 volts. Only
cost $1.70 per hour to run.
I suppose I could insulate the ceiling (and knock out the storage spaces
for my various ladders,etc)as well as the remaining two uninsulated
walls, replaced the doors with insulated units, weatherstrip them
properly, dig up the footings to install the subgrade foam board and I
would still have to deal with 16" or so of exposed concrete footer. Nah,
just put in the gas heater.
Jeepster wrote:
> Sounds like they were wired incorrectly.
> It gets to -30 here and with my insulated garage I can work out there
> in a t-shirt.
>
> On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 05:41:10 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>
>
>>I tried baseboard heaters, what a joke, pulled them out. A 20 amp 240
>>circuit can only deliever 6500 BTU's per hour without popping the breaker.
>>
>>Snow wrote:
>>
>>>Ever thought about adding in electric baseboard heaters?
>>>You could go all the way like the garage at my buds house in northern
>>>Ontario oil fired furnace with central air. The garage is about 1400 sq
>>>feet. He keeps his two classic cars, his spare parts vehicle, in the winter
>>>he also stores a boat for someone and in summer he has their sled. A second
>>>"extra" car sits out in the drive, which can fit about 8 vehicles.
>>>
>>>Snow...
>>>
>>>"Kevin S" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:a4ord.32$A81.6742@news.uswest.net...
>>>
>>>
>>>>I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
>>>>adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it
>>>
>>>for
>>>
>>>
>>>>$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
>>>>of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
>>>>other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have
>>>
>>>read
>>>
>>>
>>>>that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high
>>>
>>>salt
>>>
>>>
>>>>use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
>>>>would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my
>>>
>>>CJ-7.
>>>
>>>
>>>>Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>
>>>>winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
>>>>
>>>>Thoughts? Suggestions?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
12-04-2004, 10:21 AM
#86
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Heated Garage or not?
what did you use on the door??
---- wrote:
> We live where it is relatively cold in the winter. It was 18-degrees
> F this morning. Our garage right now is 61.3 degrees F. Plenty warm
> enough to work out there. The secret for us was to insulate the
> garage door (2-car garage) and install good seals. The walls and
> ceiling are insulated. The other part is to keep the door closed at
> all times, except when entering or leaving. Before we insulated the
> garage door, I used to freeze my patooty off out there. It was so
> cold stuff in bottles would freeze. Now, the lowest we ever see is
> about 55-dgrees F.
>
> The only heat the garage gets is from the engine(s) when we get back
> from somewhere.
>
> On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:30:51 -0700, "Kevin S"
> <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
> >adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it for
> >$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
> >of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
> >other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have read
> >that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high salt
> >use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
> >would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my CJ-7.
> >Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during the
> >winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
> >
> >Thoughts? Suggestions?
> >
---- wrote:
> We live where it is relatively cold in the winter. It was 18-degrees
> F this morning. Our garage right now is 61.3 degrees F. Plenty warm
> enough to work out there. The secret for us was to insulate the
> garage door (2-car garage) and install good seals. The walls and
> ceiling are insulated. The other part is to keep the door closed at
> all times, except when entering or leaving. Before we insulated the
> garage door, I used to freeze my patooty off out there. It was so
> cold stuff in bottles would freeze. Now, the lowest we ever see is
> about 55-dgrees F.
>
> The only heat the garage gets is from the engine(s) when we get back
> from somewhere.
>
> On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:30:51 -0700, "Kevin S"
> <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
> >adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it for
> >$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
> >of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
> >other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have read
> >that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high salt
> >use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
> >would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my CJ-7.
> >Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during the
> >winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
> >
> >Thoughts? Suggestions?
> >
12-04-2004, 10:21 AM
#87
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Heated Garage or not?
what did you use on the door??
---- wrote:
> We live where it is relatively cold in the winter. It was 18-degrees
> F this morning. Our garage right now is 61.3 degrees F. Plenty warm
> enough to work out there. The secret for us was to insulate the
> garage door (2-car garage) and install good seals. The walls and
> ceiling are insulated. The other part is to keep the door closed at
> all times, except when entering or leaving. Before we insulated the
> garage door, I used to freeze my patooty off out there. It was so
> cold stuff in bottles would freeze. Now, the lowest we ever see is
> about 55-dgrees F.
>
> The only heat the garage gets is from the engine(s) when we get back
> from somewhere.
>
> On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:30:51 -0700, "Kevin S"
> <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
> >adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it for
> >$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
> >of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
> >other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have read
> >that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high salt
> >use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
> >would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my CJ-7.
> >Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during the
> >winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
> >
> >Thoughts? Suggestions?
> >
---- wrote:
> We live where it is relatively cold in the winter. It was 18-degrees
> F this morning. Our garage right now is 61.3 degrees F. Plenty warm
> enough to work out there. The secret for us was to insulate the
> garage door (2-car garage) and install good seals. The walls and
> ceiling are insulated. The other part is to keep the door closed at
> all times, except when entering or leaving. Before we insulated the
> garage door, I used to freeze my patooty off out there. It was so
> cold stuff in bottles would freeze. Now, the lowest we ever see is
> about 55-dgrees F.
>
> The only heat the garage gets is from the engine(s) when we get back
> from somewhere.
>
> On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:30:51 -0700, "Kevin S"
> <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
> >adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it for
> >$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
> >of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
> >other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have read
> >that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high salt
> >use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
> >would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my CJ-7.
> >Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during the
> >winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
> >
> >Thoughts? Suggestions?
> >
12-04-2004, 10:21 AM
#88
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Heated Garage or not?
what did you use on the door??
---- wrote:
> We live where it is relatively cold in the winter. It was 18-degrees
> F this morning. Our garage right now is 61.3 degrees F. Plenty warm
> enough to work out there. The secret for us was to insulate the
> garage door (2-car garage) and install good seals. The walls and
> ceiling are insulated. The other part is to keep the door closed at
> all times, except when entering or leaving. Before we insulated the
> garage door, I used to freeze my patooty off out there. It was so
> cold stuff in bottles would freeze. Now, the lowest we ever see is
> about 55-dgrees F.
>
> The only heat the garage gets is from the engine(s) when we get back
> from somewhere.
>
> On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:30:51 -0700, "Kevin S"
> <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
> >adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it for
> >$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
> >of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
> >other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have read
> >that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high salt
> >use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
> >would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my CJ-7.
> >Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during the
> >winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
> >
> >Thoughts? Suggestions?
> >
---- wrote:
> We live where it is relatively cold in the winter. It was 18-degrees
> F this morning. Our garage right now is 61.3 degrees F. Plenty warm
> enough to work out there. The secret for us was to insulate the
> garage door (2-car garage) and install good seals. The walls and
> ceiling are insulated. The other part is to keep the door closed at
> all times, except when entering or leaving. Before we insulated the
> garage door, I used to freeze my patooty off out there. It was so
> cold stuff in bottles would freeze. Now, the lowest we ever see is
> about 55-dgrees F.
>
> The only heat the garage gets is from the engine(s) when we get back
> from somewhere.
>
> On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:30:51 -0700, "Kevin S"
> <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
> >adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it for
> >$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
> >of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
> >other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have read
> >that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high salt
> >use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
> >would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my CJ-7.
> >Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during the
> >winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
> >
> >Thoughts? Suggestions?
> >
12-04-2004, 10:56 AM
#89
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Heated Garage or not?
>> On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:30:51 -0700, "Kevin S"<ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it for
$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have read
that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high salt
use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my CJ-7.
Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during the
winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.<
A relatively inexpensive solution that works for me is to use a portable
radiator type oil filled A/C heater, available at Ace Hdw or Home Depot,
etc. They will heat a gagarge to comfy level in short order and make a good
backup should you have a furnace problem. I like it becuse it has no exposed
heating elements to ignite chemical fumes, etc., plus it throws heat like a
coal fire.
>> wrote:
>I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it for
$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have read
that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high salt
use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my CJ-7.
Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during the
winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.<
A relatively inexpensive solution that works for me is to use a portable
radiator type oil filled A/C heater, available at Ace Hdw or Home Depot,
etc. They will heat a gagarge to comfy level in short order and make a good
backup should you have a furnace problem. I like it becuse it has no exposed
heating elements to ignite chemical fumes, etc., plus it throws heat like a
coal fire.
12-04-2004, 10:56 AM
#90
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Heated Garage or not?
>> On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:30:51 -0700, "Kevin S"<ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it for
$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have read
that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high salt
use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my CJ-7.
Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during the
winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.<
A relatively inexpensive solution that works for me is to use a portable
radiator type oil filled A/C heater, available at Ace Hdw or Home Depot,
etc. They will heat a gagarge to comfy level in short order and make a good
backup should you have a furnace problem. I like it becuse it has no exposed
heating elements to ignite chemical fumes, etc., plus it throws heat like a
coal fire.
>> wrote:
>I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it for
$200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have read
that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high salt
use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my CJ-7.
Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during the
winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.<
A relatively inexpensive solution that works for me is to use a portable
radiator type oil filled A/C heater, available at Ace Hdw or Home Depot,
etc. They will heat a gagarge to comfy level in short order and make a good
backup should you have a furnace problem. I like it becuse it has no exposed
heating elements to ignite chemical fumes, etc., plus it throws heat like a
coal fire.
