As another said, the rust is a function of temperature as it is a chemical
reaction. The rate doubles
every 18 Deg F approximately.

So keep the garage cold, letting the heat from the house through the wall
keep it from getting
bitter cold, but keeping the ice on the car frozen. When you want to work on
the vehicles in
the garage, just use one of these space heater ("salamander" heaters). For a
two car garage,
about 24' square, I suggest between 70 and 90 thousand BTU. I have a 70 and
it works fine!.

Yes, keep a crack open, about a foot, on the garage door for fresh air and
place the
heater near the crack to burn fresh air. Use white kerosene for fuel and the
smell won't bother
you. However, be advised that if you are going to be using open gasoline in
your work, heat
the garage first, shut down the heater, work with the open gas, clear out
the shop, and then
relight the heater. The heater is still an open flame.

Walt Johnson
1999 TJ
1950 MG-TD

"Kevin S" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a4ord.32$A81.6742@news.uswest.net...
> I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
> adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it
for
> $200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
> of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
> other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have
read
> that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high
salt
> use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
> would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my
CJ-7.
> Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during
the
> winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
>
> Thoughts? Suggestions?
>
>

 

As another said, the rust is a function of temperature as it is a chemical
reaction. The rate doubles
every 18 Deg F approximately.

So keep the garage cold, letting the heat from the house through the wall
keep it from getting
bitter cold, but keeping the ice on the car frozen. When you want to work on
the vehicles in
the garage, just use one of these space heater ("salamander" heaters). For a
two car garage,
about 24' square, I suggest between 70 and 90 thousand BTU. I have a 70 and
it works fine!.

Yes, keep a crack open, about a foot, on the garage door for fresh air and
place the
heater near the crack to burn fresh air. Use white kerosene for fuel and the
smell won't bother
you. However, be advised that if you are going to be using open gasoline in
your work, heat
the garage first, shut down the heater, work with the open gas, clear out
the shop, and then
relight the heater. The heater is still an open flame.

Walt Johnson
1999 TJ
1950 MG-TD

"Kevin S" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a4ord.32$A81.6742@news.uswest.net...
> I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
> adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it
for
> $200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
> of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
> other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have
read
> that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high
salt
> use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
> would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my
CJ-7.
> Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during
the
> winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
>
> Thoughts? Suggestions?
>
>

 

As another said, the rust is a function of temperature as it is a chemical
reaction. The rate doubles
every 18 Deg F approximately.

So keep the garage cold, letting the heat from the house through the wall
keep it from getting
bitter cold, but keeping the ice on the car frozen. When you want to work on
the vehicles in
the garage, just use one of these space heater ("salamander" heaters). For a
two car garage,
about 24' square, I suggest between 70 and 90 thousand BTU. I have a 70 and
it works fine!.

Yes, keep a crack open, about a foot, on the garage door for fresh air and
place the
heater near the crack to burn fresh air. Use white kerosene for fuel and the
smell won't bother
you. However, be advised that if you are going to be using open gasoline in
your work, heat
the garage first, shut down the heater, work with the open gas, clear out
the shop, and then
relight the heater. The heater is still an open flame.

Walt Johnson
1999 TJ
1950 MG-TD

"Kevin S" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a4ord.32$A81.6742@news.uswest.net...
> I just had the heater man out to fix my heat, and I talked to him about
> adding a heat register for my garage. He said he could probably add it
for
> $200-$300 and it would just use hot water returning to the boiler from any
> of the other zones, so it would essentially heat a bit anytime an of the
> other zones got heated. My garage is drywalled and insulated. I have
read
> that people don't recommend heated garages in areas where you have high
salt
> use, because it will speed up rust. We don't use salt in my area and it
> would sure be nice to have a heated garage to work in as I rebuild my
CJ-7.
> Once my CJ-7 is done it will be stored outdoors under a car cover during
the
> winter and my Cherokee and fiance's Camry will come back inside.
>
> Thoughts? Suggestions?
>
>

 

Same story here, only Northern Minnesota in winter beats Indiana. :) I
finally figured out that the only way to survive the "out on the lot"
dilema was to really bundle up then just stay outside and get the work
done. Running in and out of the heat just got you sweating.

SoK66 wrote:
> "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> news:41B1931E.7454461B@cac.net...
>
>>when you lived there did u try swimming in lake superior??? same affect
>>
>>Will Honea wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 15:56:15 UTC "SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>A relatively inexpensive solution that works for me is to use a
>>>>portable
>>>>radiator type oil filled A/C heater, available at Ace Hdw or Home
>>>>Depot,
>>>>etc. They will heat a gagarge to comfy level in short order and make a
>>>>good
>>>>backup should you have a furnace problem. I like it becuse it has no
>>>>exposed
>>>>heating elements to ignite chemical fumes, etc., plus it throws heat
>>>>like a
>>>>coal fire.
>>>
>>>When I had the misfortune of being stationed in Wisconsin I had to
>>>change the crossshaft and spiders in a front end with temps in the
>>>unspeakably cold range - well below zero at midday. I tried
>>>everything to get that garage warm enough to work in and finally wound
>>>up using one of those radiant electric heaters that use a reflector to
>>>focus the infrared from the element. It never warmed the air but it
>>>would warm anything in it's beam so it would keep my hands warm enough
>>>to work and (finally) got the pumpkin up to where I could get all the
>>>parts out.
>>>
>>>I don't think I've ever experienced anything as painful as sticking my
>>>hands into gear oil so cold it wouldn't even run out when I was
>>>fishing for the busted parts! Needless to say, I don't live THERE
>>>anymore!
>>>
>>>--
>>>Will Honea
>
>
> LMAO! I hear ya! My first jobs in the automotive field were working for an
> import dealership in NW Indiana owned by some friends of my folks. Being a
> high school kid schlep, I got all the crap winter jobs that gerally included
> standing out in sub-zero cold with the wind whipping off the Lake jump
> starting dead cars, starter fluid backfiring in your face, changing tires on
> cars stuck in snow drifts around the lot, if it was ---- work outdoors in
> winter, I had to do it. My Dad just laughed his *** off, figuring it'd keep
> me from screwing around with cars for a living...WRONG!
>
>

 

Same story here, only Northern Minnesota in winter beats Indiana. :) I
finally figured out that the only way to survive the "out on the lot"
dilema was to really bundle up then just stay outside and get the work
done. Running in and out of the heat just got you sweating.

SoK66 wrote:
> "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> news:41B1931E.7454461B@cac.net...
>
>>when you lived there did u try swimming in lake superior??? same affect
>>
>>Will Honea wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 15:56:15 UTC "SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>A relatively inexpensive solution that works for me is to use a
>>>>portable
>>>>radiator type oil filled A/C heater, available at Ace Hdw or Home
>>>>Depot,
>>>>etc. They will heat a gagarge to comfy level in short order and make a
>>>>good
>>>>backup should you have a furnace problem. I like it becuse it has no
>>>>exposed
>>>>heating elements to ignite chemical fumes, etc., plus it throws heat
>>>>like a
>>>>coal fire.
>>>
>>>When I had the misfortune of being stationed in Wisconsin I had to
>>>change the crossshaft and spiders in a front end with temps in the
>>>unspeakably cold range - well below zero at midday. I tried
>>>everything to get that garage warm enough to work in and finally wound
>>>up using one of those radiant electric heaters that use a reflector to
>>>focus the infrared from the element. It never warmed the air but it
>>>would warm anything in it's beam so it would keep my hands warm enough
>>>to work and (finally) got the pumpkin up to where I could get all the
>>>parts out.
>>>
>>>I don't think I've ever experienced anything as painful as sticking my
>>>hands into gear oil so cold it wouldn't even run out when I was
>>>fishing for the busted parts! Needless to say, I don't live THERE
>>>anymore!
>>>
>>>--
>>>Will Honea
>
>
> LMAO! I hear ya! My first jobs in the automotive field were working for an
> import dealership in NW Indiana owned by some friends of my folks. Being a
> high school kid schlep, I got all the crap winter jobs that gerally included
> standing out in sub-zero cold with the wind whipping off the Lake jump
> starting dead cars, starter fluid backfiring in your face, changing tires on
> cars stuck in snow drifts around the lot, if it was ---- work outdoors in
> winter, I had to do it. My Dad just laughed his *** off, figuring it'd keep
> me from screwing around with cars for a living...WRONG!
>
>

 

Same story here, only Northern Minnesota in winter beats Indiana. :) I
finally figured out that the only way to survive the "out on the lot"
dilema was to really bundle up then just stay outside and get the work
done. Running in and out of the heat just got you sweating.

SoK66 wrote:
> "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> news:41B1931E.7454461B@cac.net...
>
>>when you lived there did u try swimming in lake superior??? same affect
>>
>>Will Honea wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 15:56:15 UTC "SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>A relatively inexpensive solution that works for me is to use a
>>>>portable
>>>>radiator type oil filled A/C heater, available at Ace Hdw or Home
>>>>Depot,
>>>>etc. They will heat a gagarge to comfy level in short order and make a
>>>>good
>>>>backup should you have a furnace problem. I like it becuse it has no
>>>>exposed
>>>>heating elements to ignite chemical fumes, etc., plus it throws heat
>>>>like a
>>>>coal fire.
>>>
>>>When I had the misfortune of being stationed in Wisconsin I had to
>>>change the crossshaft and spiders in a front end with temps in the
>>>unspeakably cold range - well below zero at midday. I tried
>>>everything to get that garage warm enough to work in and finally wound
>>>up using one of those radiant electric heaters that use a reflector to
>>>focus the infrared from the element. It never warmed the air but it
>>>would warm anything in it's beam so it would keep my hands warm enough
>>>to work and (finally) got the pumpkin up to where I could get all the
>>>parts out.
>>>
>>>I don't think I've ever experienced anything as painful as sticking my
>>>hands into gear oil so cold it wouldn't even run out when I was
>>>fishing for the busted parts! Needless to say, I don't live THERE
>>>anymore!
>>>
>>>--
>>>Will Honea
>
>
> LMAO! I hear ya! My first jobs in the automotive field were working for an
> import dealership in NW Indiana owned by some friends of my folks. Being a
> high school kid schlep, I got all the crap winter jobs that gerally included
> standing out in sub-zero cold with the wind whipping off the Lake jump
> starting dead cars, starter fluid backfiring in your face, changing tires on
> cars stuck in snow drifts around the lot, if it was ---- work outdoors in
> winter, I had to do it. My Dad just laughed his *** off, figuring it'd keep
> me from screwing around with cars for a living...WRONG!
>
>

 

Cover the area (whole Jeep) with a tarp will stop the wind for biting you as
much. ;-)
And if you can put in a little space heater.........that is even better.
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:7nvtd.4769$yr1.2530@newsread3.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Same story here, only Northern Minnesota in winter beats Indiana. :) I
> finally figured out that the only way to survive the "out on the lot"
> dilema was to really bundle up then just stay outside and get the work
> done. Running in and out of the heat just got you sweating.

 

Cover the area (whole Jeep) with a tarp will stop the wind for biting you as
much. ;-)
And if you can put in a little space heater.........that is even better.
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:7nvtd.4769$yr1.2530@newsread3.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Same story here, only Northern Minnesota in winter beats Indiana. :) I
> finally figured out that the only way to survive the "out on the lot"
> dilema was to really bundle up then just stay outside and get the work
> done. Running in and out of the heat just got you sweating.

 

Cover the area (whole Jeep) with a tarp will stop the wind for biting you as
much. ;-)
And if you can put in a little space heater.........that is even better.
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:7nvtd.4769$yr1.2530@newsread3.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Same story here, only Northern Minnesota in winter beats Indiana. :) I
> finally figured out that the only way to survive the "out on the lot"
> dilema was to really bundle up then just stay outside and get the work
> done. Running in and out of the heat just got you sweating.

 

Just as a follow-up to the two types of fuel heat I use (propane and
kerosene), I did some trending in my garage with a continuous reading CO
(carbon Monoxide) sensor. I used an MSHA approved sensor that we
manufacture at work for use in underground coal mines. I found that my
vent-less propane heater emits practically no CO over several hours. The
kerosene heater raises levels to 8-10 ppm over a several hour period. I
have no windows or doors open, insulated 30'x36' garage. Just FYI.

See here for limits:
http://www.coheadquarters.com/colimits1.htm

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift