Ground Wire and Alternator?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
>
> Your points are well taken.
>
> JimG
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> connected
> > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> >
> > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> >
> > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
sorts
> > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
> >
>
>
frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
>
> Your points are well taken.
>
> JimG
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> connected
> > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> >
> > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> >
> > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
sorts
> > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
It withstands vibration longer, of course that's how we find them
usually, wiggled in two.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DougW wrote:
>
> Personally, I dislike braided copper because it corrodes internally. For
> lighting protection they actually discourage its use.
>
> I found a good engine ground can be made from battery cable. Just leave
> a bit of slack (say a 4" loop) and it's good for a long time.
>
> --
> DougW
usually, wiggled in two.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DougW wrote:
>
> Personally, I dislike braided copper because it corrodes internally. For
> lighting protection they actually discourage its use.
>
> I found a good engine ground can be made from battery cable. Just leave
> a bit of slack (say a 4" loop) and it's good for a long time.
>
> --
> DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
It withstands vibration longer, of course that's how we find them
usually, wiggled in two.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DougW wrote:
>
> Personally, I dislike braided copper because it corrodes internally. For
> lighting protection they actually discourage its use.
>
> I found a good engine ground can be made from battery cable. Just leave
> a bit of slack (say a 4" loop) and it's good for a long time.
>
> --
> DougW
usually, wiggled in two.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DougW wrote:
>
> Personally, I dislike braided copper because it corrodes internally. For
> lighting protection they actually discourage its use.
>
> I found a good engine ground can be made from battery cable. Just leave
> a bit of slack (say a 4" loop) and it's good for a long time.
>
> --
> DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
It withstands vibration longer, of course that's how we find them
usually, wiggled in two.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DougW wrote:
>
> Personally, I dislike braided copper because it corrodes internally. For
> lighting protection they actually discourage its use.
>
> I found a good engine ground can be made from battery cable. Just leave
> a bit of slack (say a 4" loop) and it's good for a long time.
>
> --
> DougW
usually, wiggled in two.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DougW wrote:
>
> Personally, I dislike braided copper because it corrodes internally. For
> lighting protection they actually discourage its use.
>
> I found a good engine ground can be made from battery cable. Just leave
> a bit of slack (say a 4" loop) and it's good for a long time.
>
> --
> DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 03:09:05 UTC "Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com>
wrote:
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
Don't take the meter reading too seriously - a few milliohms at 10s of
amps is a whole different ball game than what the meter measures. The
problem with meters is that even badly corroded connection will have
tiny low impedance punch thru points which the meter reads a OK -
these disappear when several amps hit the joint. One decent test is
just a plain old hand - if the connection is warm to the touch, it's
corroded. One common error is measuring from the cable clamp to the
block - measure from the actual battery post to catch a bad battery
clamp. The meter will also no catch a loose connection.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
wrote:
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
Don't take the meter reading too seriously - a few milliohms at 10s of
amps is a whole different ball game than what the meter measures. The
problem with meters is that even badly corroded connection will have
tiny low impedance punch thru points which the meter reads a OK -
these disappear when several amps hit the joint. One decent test is
just a plain old hand - if the connection is warm to the touch, it's
corroded. One common error is measuring from the cable clamp to the
block - measure from the actual battery post to catch a bad battery
clamp. The meter will also no catch a loose connection.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 03:09:05 UTC "Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com>
wrote:
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
Don't take the meter reading too seriously - a few milliohms at 10s of
amps is a whole different ball game than what the meter measures. The
problem with meters is that even badly corroded connection will have
tiny low impedance punch thru points which the meter reads a OK -
these disappear when several amps hit the joint. One decent test is
just a plain old hand - if the connection is warm to the touch, it's
corroded. One common error is measuring from the cable clamp to the
block - measure from the actual battery post to catch a bad battery
clamp. The meter will also no catch a loose connection.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
wrote:
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
Don't take the meter reading too seriously - a few milliohms at 10s of
amps is a whole different ball game than what the meter measures. The
problem with meters is that even badly corroded connection will have
tiny low impedance punch thru points which the meter reads a OK -
these disappear when several amps hit the joint. One decent test is
just a plain old hand - if the connection is warm to the touch, it's
corroded. One common error is measuring from the cable clamp to the
block - measure from the actual battery post to catch a bad battery
clamp. The meter will also no catch a loose connection.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 03:09:05 UTC "Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com>
wrote:
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
Don't take the meter reading too seriously - a few milliohms at 10s of
amps is a whole different ball game than what the meter measures. The
problem with meters is that even badly corroded connection will have
tiny low impedance punch thru points which the meter reads a OK -
these disappear when several amps hit the joint. One decent test is
just a plain old hand - if the connection is warm to the touch, it's
corroded. One common error is measuring from the cable clamp to the
block - measure from the actual battery post to catch a bad battery
clamp. The meter will also no catch a loose connection.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
wrote:
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
Don't take the meter reading too seriously - a few milliohms at 10s of
amps is a whole different ball game than what the meter measures. The
problem with meters is that even badly corroded connection will have
tiny low impedance punch thru points which the meter reads a OK -
these disappear when several amps hit the joint. One decent test is
just a plain old hand - if the connection is warm to the touch, it's
corroded. One common error is measuring from the cable clamp to the
block - measure from the actual battery post to catch a bad battery
clamp. The meter will also no catch a loose connection.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Just as a side note: I just replaced my alternator with one from Advanced
Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge path
should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
lights/electronics.
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge path
should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
lights/electronics.
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Just as a side note: I just replaced my alternator with one from Advanced
Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge path
should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
lights/electronics.
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge path
should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
lights/electronics.
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Just as a side note: I just replaced my alternator with one from Advanced
Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge path
should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
lights/electronics.
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge path
should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
lights/electronics.
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
