Ground Wire and Alternator?
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then connected
directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
JimG
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
JimG
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then connected
directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
JimG
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
JimG
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then connected
directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
JimG
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
JimG
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Use braided copper like stock form the factory:
http://www.camarosandclassics.com/Me...0001/AN922.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
http://www.camarosandclassics.com/Me...0001/AN922.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Use braided copper like stock form the factory:
http://www.camarosandclassics.com/Me...0001/AN922.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
http://www.camarosandclassics.com/Me...0001/AN922.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Use braided copper like stock form the factory:
http://www.camarosandclassics.com/Me...0001/AN922.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
http://www.camarosandclassics.com/Me...0001/AN922.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
You should have a 4-6 AWG from the block to the battery. A 10 AWG (good for
~40 amps) would be OK temporarily.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_3/2.html
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtmqj$7b8in$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary
ground
> from
> > > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
> >
> > Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> > the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> > engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> >
> > > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> > >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> > >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> > >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch
of
> > >> alternators in a very short period.
> > >>
> > >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
> pretty
> > >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check
all
> my
> > >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine,
fenders,
> etc.
> > >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> > >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the
battery
> is
> > >> fine.
> > >>
> > >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator
housing
> to
> > >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> > >>
> > >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
> ground
> > >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> > >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> > >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded
to.
> Why
> > >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
> nearest
> > >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good
connection?
> Too
> > >> much resistance maybe?
> > >>
> > >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator
to
> > >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> Thanks Always !!!
> > >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > >> Vail, CO.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
~40 amps) would be OK temporarily.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_3/2.html
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtmqj$7b8in$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary
ground
> from
> > > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
> >
> > Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> > the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> > engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> >
> > > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> > >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> > >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> > >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch
of
> > >> alternators in a very short period.
> > >>
> > >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
> pretty
> > >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check
all
> my
> > >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine,
fenders,
> etc.
> > >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> > >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the
battery
> is
> > >> fine.
> > >>
> > >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator
housing
> to
> > >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> > >>
> > >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
> ground
> > >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> > >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> > >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded
to.
> Why
> > >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
> nearest
> > >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good
connection?
> Too
> > >> much resistance maybe?
> > >>
> > >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator
to
> > >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> Thanks Always !!!
> > >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > >> Vail, CO.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
You should have a 4-6 AWG from the block to the battery. A 10 AWG (good for
~40 amps) would be OK temporarily.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_3/2.html
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtmqj$7b8in$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary
ground
> from
> > > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
> >
> > Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> > the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> > engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> >
> > > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> > >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> > >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> > >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch
of
> > >> alternators in a very short period.
> > >>
> > >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
> pretty
> > >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check
all
> my
> > >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine,
fenders,
> etc.
> > >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> > >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the
battery
> is
> > >> fine.
> > >>
> > >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator
housing
> to
> > >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> > >>
> > >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
> ground
> > >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> > >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> > >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded
to.
> Why
> > >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
> nearest
> > >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good
connection?
> Too
> > >> much resistance maybe?
> > >>
> > >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator
to
> > >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> Thanks Always !!!
> > >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > >> Vail, CO.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
~40 amps) would be OK temporarily.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_3/2.html
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtmqj$7b8in$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary
ground
> from
> > > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
> >
> > Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> > the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> > engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> >
> > > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> > >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> > >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> > >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch
of
> > >> alternators in a very short period.
> > >>
> > >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
> pretty
> > >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check
all
> my
> > >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine,
fenders,
> etc.
> > >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> > >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the
battery
> is
> > >> fine.
> > >>
> > >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator
housing
> to
> > >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> > >>
> > >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
> ground
> > >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> > >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> > >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded
to.
> Why
> > >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
> nearest
> > >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good
connection?
> Too
> > >> much resistance maybe?
> > >>
> > >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator
to
> > >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> Thanks Always !!!
> > >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > >> Vail, CO.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
You should have a 4-6 AWG from the block to the battery. A 10 AWG (good for
~40 amps) would be OK temporarily.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_3/2.html
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtmqj$7b8in$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary
ground
> from
> > > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
> >
> > Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> > the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> > engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> >
> > > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> > >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> > >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> > >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch
of
> > >> alternators in a very short period.
> > >>
> > >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
> pretty
> > >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check
all
> my
> > >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine,
fenders,
> etc.
> > >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> > >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the
battery
> is
> > >> fine.
> > >>
> > >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator
housing
> to
> > >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> > >>
> > >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
> ground
> > >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> > >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> > >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded
to.
> Why
> > >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
> nearest
> > >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good
connection?
> Too
> > >> much resistance maybe?
> > >>
> > >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator
to
> > >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> Thanks Always !!!
> > >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > >> Vail, CO.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
~40 amps) would be OK temporarily.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_3/2.html
JimG
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtmqj$7b8in$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary
ground
> from
> > > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
> >
> > Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> > the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> > engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> >
> > > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> > >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> > >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> > >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch
of
> > >> alternators in a very short period.
> > >>
> > >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
> pretty
> > >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check
all
> my
> > >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine,
fenders,
> etc.
> > >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> > >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the
battery
> is
> > >> fine.
> > >>
> > >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator
housing
> to
> > >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> > >>
> > >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
> ground
> > >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> > >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> > >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded
to.
> Why
> > >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
> nearest
> > >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good
connection?
> Too
> > >> much resistance maybe?
> > >>
> > >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator
to
> > >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> Thanks Always !!!
> > >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > >> Vail, CO.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Use braided copper like stock form the factory:
> http://www.camarosandclassics.com/Me...0001/AN922.jpg
Personally, I dislike braided copper because it corrodes internally. For
lighting protection they actually discourage its use.
I found a good engine ground can be made from battery cable. Just leave
a bit of slack (say a 4" loop) and it's good for a long time.
--
DougW
> Use braided copper like stock form the factory:
> http://www.camarosandclassics.com/Me...0001/AN922.jpg
Personally, I dislike braided copper because it corrodes internally. For
lighting protection they actually discourage its use.
I found a good engine ground can be made from battery cable. Just leave
a bit of slack (say a 4" loop) and it's good for a long time.
--
DougW