Ground Wire and Alternator?
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Is the contact shaky between the alternator and block? If so, the
alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
is from the block to the fender.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
is from the block to the fender.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Is the contact shaky between the alternator and block? If so, the
alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
is from the block to the fender.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
is from the block to the fender.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Is the contact shaky between the alternator and block? If so, the
alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
is from the block to the fender.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
is from the block to the fender.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery from
> what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> >
> > Your points are well taken.
> >
> > JimG
> >
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > connected
> > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > >
> > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real wonky.
> > >
> > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> sorts
> > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine and
> > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Hi Jim,
From reading a post a couple weeks back, maybe yours. Anyways, I did charge
the battery up before installing the alternator.
"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:mKEEb.24043$w53.17312@news02.roc.ny...
> Just as a side note: I just replaced my alternator with one from Advanced
> Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
> started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
> dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
> fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
> will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge
path
> should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
> lights/electronics.
>
> JimG
>
> "Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
From reading a post a couple weeks back, maybe yours. Anyways, I did charge
the battery up before installing the alternator.
"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:mKEEb.24043$w53.17312@news02.roc.ny...
> Just as a side note: I just replaced my alternator with one from Advanced
> Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
> started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
> dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
> fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
> will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge
path
> should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
> lights/electronics.
>
> JimG
>
> "Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Hi Jim,
From reading a post a couple weeks back, maybe yours. Anyways, I did charge
the battery up before installing the alternator.
"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:mKEEb.24043$w53.17312@news02.roc.ny...
> Just as a side note: I just replaced my alternator with one from Advanced
> Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
> started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
> dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
> fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
> will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge
path
> should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
> lights/electronics.
>
> JimG
>
> "Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
From reading a post a couple weeks back, maybe yours. Anyways, I did charge
the battery up before installing the alternator.
"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:mKEEb.24043$w53.17312@news02.roc.ny...
> Just as a side note: I just replaced my alternator with one from Advanced
> Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
> started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
> dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
> fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
> will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge
path
> should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
> lights/electronics.
>
> JimG
>
> "Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Hi Jim,
From reading a post a couple weeks back, maybe yours. Anyways, I did charge
the battery up before installing the alternator.
"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:mKEEb.24043$w53.17312@news02.roc.ny...
> Just as a side note: I just replaced my alternator with one from Advanced
> Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
> started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
> dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
> fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
> will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge
path
> should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
> lights/electronics.
>
> JimG
>
> "Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
From reading a post a couple weeks back, maybe yours. Anyways, I did charge
the battery up before installing the alternator.
"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:mKEEb.24043$w53.17312@news02.roc.ny...
> Just as a side note: I just replaced my alternator with one from Advanced
> Auto (a rebuilt unit) and when I first put it in, it got so hot that it
> started smoking! I later learned that they are not designed to charge a
> dead battery, so I used a charger on the batteries overnight and its been
> fine now for about a month. I really don't think frame and body grounding
> will cause an alternator to get hot... the negative side of the charge
path
> should be from the block to the battery. Frame/body grounds are for
> lights/electronics.
>
> JimG
>
> "Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:brtptl$7bg4h$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
To Will and Mike,
I think I'll just start replacing both the engine to battery grounds and
alternator to fender ground. They have a little surface corrosion that I
couldn't see well with a flash light yesterday evening.
Thanks All,
Paul
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FE327A9.93FB40DD@sympatico.ca...
> Is the contact shaky between the alternator and block? If so, the
> alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
> is from the block to the fender.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
I think I'll just start replacing both the engine to battery grounds and
alternator to fender ground. They have a little surface corrosion that I
couldn't see well with a flash light yesterday evening.
Thanks All,
Paul
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FE327A9.93FB40DD@sympatico.ca...
> Is the contact shaky between the alternator and block? If so, the
> alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
> is from the block to the fender.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
To Will and Mike,
I think I'll just start replacing both the engine to battery grounds and
alternator to fender ground. They have a little surface corrosion that I
couldn't see well with a flash light yesterday evening.
Thanks All,
Paul
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FE327A9.93FB40DD@sympatico.ca...
> Is the contact shaky between the alternator and block? If so, the
> alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
> is from the block to the fender.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
I think I'll just start replacing both the engine to battery grounds and
alternator to fender ground. They have a little surface corrosion that I
couldn't see well with a flash light yesterday evening.
Thanks All,
Paul
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FE327A9.93FB40DD@sympatico.ca...
> Is the contact shaky between the alternator and block? If so, the
> alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
> is from the block to the fender.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
To Will and Mike,
I think I'll just start replacing both the engine to battery grounds and
alternator to fender ground. They have a little surface corrosion that I
couldn't see well with a flash light yesterday evening.
Thanks All,
Paul
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FE327A9.93FB40DD@sympatico.ca...
> Is the contact shaky between the alternator and block? If so, the
> alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
> is from the block to the fender.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
I think I'll just start replacing both the engine to battery grounds and
alternator to fender ground. They have a little surface corrosion that I
couldn't see well with a flash light yesterday evening.
Thanks All,
Paul
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FE327A9.93FB40DD@sympatico.ca...
> Is the contact shaky between the alternator and block? If so, the
> alternator needs it's own ground. Otherwise likely the ground you need
> is from the block to the fender.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Maybe I didn't state it well. I need a wire from the alternator to the
> > frame or body. The connection is good from the block to the battery
from
> > what my fluke meter shows. Hopefully getting all the grounding issues
> > resolved will keep my alternator running cool and not smokin hot.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
> > "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> > news:6NtEb.24496$PC4.11346@news01.roc.ny...
> > > "wonky"... I will look that one up in the NEC. :-)
> > >
> > > Your points are well taken.
> > >
> > > JimG
> > >
> > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > news:PEtEb.7759$PK3.4282@okepread01...
> > > > JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > Doug you are correct... I should have said block, which is then
> > > connected
> > > > > directly to the battery ground via a 4 AWG cable.
> > > >
> > > > I missed one thing. The engine may get a round-about ground through
> > > > the transmission links and drive train. But it's gonna be real
wonky.
> > > >
> > > > Usually it just seeks ground through the sensor wires and causes all
> > sorts
> > > > of hell with the computer. That's why a jumper between the engine
and
> > > > frame is a good first check for any rough running engine.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > DougW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
And if it works, please buy the NAPA counter guy some donuts and
coffee. Helpful advice should be rewarded if it was offered free.
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message news:<brtmqj$7b8in$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de>...
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "
coffee. Helpful advice should be rewarded if it was offered free.
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message news:<brtmqj$7b8in$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de>...
> Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
> grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
> frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "