Yes, the one connected to the tie rod is fairly easy to get out (and I have
57k miles on my TJ). I took mine out thinking it was a problem that it
wasn't. Just placed a hammer flat against one side of the drag link and
used another to tap the top. Since the end is "pressed" in, it'll loosen up
after a few taps. Then I lightly tapped the end of the threaded part and it
came right out. Since I couldn't actually remove it from the tie rod
itself, it reinstalled it.

Eric
99 TJ SE

"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>

 

Yes, the one connected to the tie rod is fairly easy to get out (and I have
57k miles on my TJ). I took mine out thinking it was a problem that it
wasn't. Just placed a hammer flat against one side of the drag link and
used another to tap the top. Since the end is "pressed" in, it'll loosen up
after a few taps. Then I lightly tapped the end of the threaded part and it
came right out. Since I couldn't actually remove it from the tie rod
itself, it reinstalled it.

Eric
99 TJ SE

"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>

 

Yes, the one connected to the tie rod is fairly easy to get out (and I have
57k miles on my TJ). I took mine out thinking it was a problem that it
wasn't. Just placed a hammer flat against one side of the drag link and
used another to tap the top. Since the end is "pressed" in, it'll loosen up
after a few taps. Then I lightly tapped the end of the threaded part and it
came right out. Since I couldn't actually remove it from the tie rod
itself, it reinstalled it.

Eric
99 TJ SE

"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>

 

Update:
I picked up a plain rubber boot from oreilly auto parts. Popped the tie rod
off of the drag link. Coerced the damaged boot off with some pliers.
Cleaned up the tie rod end a bit. Replaced the boot with the new one.
Bolted it back up. Took all of 15 minutes and that included regreasing all
other zerks while I was under there. The tie rod end was not damaged. I
think what happened is the original boot must have gotten dragged on a rut I
was in over the weekend and it ripped open. At 8 years old, I wouldn't
expect a small piece of rubber like that to withstand too much stress.

I still need to replace the boots on the outer rod ends, but the hole in
that one is not as bad so I'll probably just keep greasing it often until I
can get some more time to replace it.

BTW, the Firestone Destination tires did awesome last weekend. I crawled up
a couple of "steep to me" hills and they didn't spin at all. I also crawled
across a couple of boulders and at one point only had 2 inches of my front
tire on the rock. It held onto it no problem. The tires were inflated at
24 psi which is what I run on the street. I'm impressed with them so far.

Thanks for all of your advice.
Dennis

"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:O7mdnYkAiPoaVP7fRVn-gQ@comcast.com...
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
>

 

Update:
I picked up a plain rubber boot from oreilly auto parts. Popped the tie rod
off of the drag link. Coerced the damaged boot off with some pliers.
Cleaned up the tie rod end a bit. Replaced the boot with the new one.
Bolted it back up. Took all of 15 minutes and that included regreasing all
other zerks while I was under there. The tie rod end was not damaged. I
think what happened is the original boot must have gotten dragged on a rut I
was in over the weekend and it ripped open. At 8 years old, I wouldn't
expect a small piece of rubber like that to withstand too much stress.

I still need to replace the boots on the outer rod ends, but the hole in
that one is not as bad so I'll probably just keep greasing it often until I
can get some more time to replace it.

BTW, the Firestone Destination tires did awesome last weekend. I crawled up
a couple of "steep to me" hills and they didn't spin at all. I also crawled
across a couple of boulders and at one point only had 2 inches of my front
tire on the rock. It held onto it no problem. The tires were inflated at
24 psi which is what I run on the street. I'm impressed with them so far.

Thanks for all of your advice.
Dennis

"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:O7mdnYkAiPoaVP7fRVn-gQ@comcast.com...
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
>

 

Update:
I picked up a plain rubber boot from oreilly auto parts. Popped the tie rod
off of the drag link. Coerced the damaged boot off with some pliers.
Cleaned up the tie rod end a bit. Replaced the boot with the new one.
Bolted it back up. Took all of 15 minutes and that included regreasing all
other zerks while I was under there. The tie rod end was not damaged. I
think what happened is the original boot must have gotten dragged on a rut I
was in over the weekend and it ripped open. At 8 years old, I wouldn't
expect a small piece of rubber like that to withstand too much stress.

I still need to replace the boots on the outer rod ends, but the hole in
that one is not as bad so I'll probably just keep greasing it often until I
can get some more time to replace it.

BTW, the Firestone Destination tires did awesome last weekend. I crawled up
a couple of "steep to me" hills and they didn't spin at all. I also crawled
across a couple of boulders and at one point only had 2 inches of my front
tire on the rock. It held onto it no problem. The tires were inflated at
24 psi which is what I run on the street. I'm impressed with them so far.

Thanks for all of your advice.
Dennis

"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:O7mdnYkAiPoaVP7fRVn-gQ@comcast.com...
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
>

 

Update:
I picked up a plain rubber boot from oreilly auto parts. Popped the tie rod
off of the drag link. Coerced the damaged boot off with some pliers.
Cleaned up the tie rod end a bit. Replaced the boot with the new one.
Bolted it back up. Took all of 15 minutes and that included regreasing all
other zerks while I was under there. The tie rod end was not damaged. I
think what happened is the original boot must have gotten dragged on a rut I
was in over the weekend and it ripped open. At 8 years old, I wouldn't
expect a small piece of rubber like that to withstand too much stress.

I still need to replace the boots on the outer rod ends, but the hole in
that one is not as bad so I'll probably just keep greasing it often until I
can get some more time to replace it.

BTW, the Firestone Destination tires did awesome last weekend. I crawled up
a couple of "steep to me" hills and they didn't spin at all. I also crawled
across a couple of boulders and at one point only had 2 inches of my front
tire on the rock. It held onto it no problem. The tires were inflated at
24 psi which is what I run on the street. I'm impressed with them so far.

Thanks for all of your advice.
Dennis

"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:O7mdnYkAiPoaVP7fRVn-gQ@comcast.com...
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
>