grease boots
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
grease boots
Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
Thanks,
Dennis
97 TJ Wrangler
the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
Thanks,
Dennis
97 TJ Wrangler
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
without damaging the internal plastic parts.
'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
without damaging the internal plastic parts.
'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
without damaging the internal plastic parts.
'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
without damaging the internal plastic parts.
'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
without damaging the internal plastic parts.
'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
without damaging the internal plastic parts.
'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
without damaging the internal plastic parts.
'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
without damaging the internal plastic parts.
'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Are there any gotchas or recommendations on replacing torn grease boots on
> the drag link/tie rod and the steering knuckle/tie rod? Two of them are
> leaking grease after a little mild trail riding this weekend.
>
> I'm thinking that I just loosen the bolt, use a tie rod puller to separate
> the parts, then, just replace the boot and reassemble.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> 97 TJ Wrangler
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>
> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>
> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>
> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>
> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>
> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>
> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>
> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>
> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>
> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>
> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>
> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>
> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>
> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>
> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>
> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>
> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
Thanks,
Dennis
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
Thanks,
Dennis
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's