grease boots
04-18-2005, 09:45 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
Thanks,
Dennis
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
Thanks,
Dennis
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-18-2005, 09:45 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
Thanks,
Dennis
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
Thanks,
Dennis
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-18-2005, 09:45 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
Thanks,
Dennis
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
Thanks,
Dennis
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-18-2005, 10:58 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/tierboots.html
Try that
"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
Try that
"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
04-18-2005, 10:58 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/tierboots.html
Try that
"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
Try that
"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
04-18-2005, 10:58 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/tierboots.html
Try that
"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
Try that
"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
04-18-2005, 10:58 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/tierboots.html
Try that
"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
Try that
"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
04-18-2005, 11:27 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
04-18-2005, 11:27 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
04-18-2005, 11:27 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots