GM steering column?
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: GM steering column?
> Geez, I've only seen that once. I thought it was common knowledge a
> slide hammer type dent puller, pops the key assembly right out. Kind of
> like having your rag top cut open when the doors were unlocked.
I agree but apparently it's "easier" to carry something that can smash the side
of the column instead of a slide-puller. Besides, when the cops stop someone
it's more likely they'll get charged with something when carrying an obvious
burglary tool. Say what you will about that whole issue but someone caught
lurking around in the middle of the night while carrying a slide hammer or bolt
cutters is probably not up to any good.
Sadly, many ignitions don't even require pulling the cylinder. Just jam a
heavyweight slotted screwdriver in they key slot; one with a squared shaft, and
then just force the whole thing to turn with a pair of vise-grips.
I was just appalled they stole my beat-to-crap XJ. Only to find it was on a
bone-dry tank and have to abandon it a mere two miles up the road. The cop's
response was "looks don't matter, they were just too lazy to walk". The
funniest part was getting a call two weeks later from a patrol car that "found"
my XJ. This was after it had /already/ been recovered the first time. I asked
him were it was (out in front of my workplace), told him it had already been
found once and then I ran like hell out there to make sure they didn't tow it
AGAIN.
I'm glad they were on the ball enough to be looking for it but would've thought
they'd have stopped trying after the first time...
-Bill Kearney
> slide hammer type dent puller, pops the key assembly right out. Kind of
> like having your rag top cut open when the doors were unlocked.
I agree but apparently it's "easier" to carry something that can smash the side
of the column instead of a slide-puller. Besides, when the cops stop someone
it's more likely they'll get charged with something when carrying an obvious
burglary tool. Say what you will about that whole issue but someone caught
lurking around in the middle of the night while carrying a slide hammer or bolt
cutters is probably not up to any good.
Sadly, many ignitions don't even require pulling the cylinder. Just jam a
heavyweight slotted screwdriver in they key slot; one with a squared shaft, and
then just force the whole thing to turn with a pair of vise-grips.
I was just appalled they stole my beat-to-crap XJ. Only to find it was on a
bone-dry tank and have to abandon it a mere two miles up the road. The cop's
response was "looks don't matter, they were just too lazy to walk". The
funniest part was getting a call two weeks later from a patrol car that "found"
my XJ. This was after it had /already/ been recovered the first time. I asked
him were it was (out in front of my workplace), told him it had already been
found once and then I ran like hell out there to make sure they didn't tow it
AGAIN.
I'm glad they were on the ball enough to be looking for it but would've thought
they'd have stopped trying after the first time...
-Bill Kearney
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: GM steering column?
> Geez, I've only seen that once. I thought it was common knowledge a
> slide hammer type dent puller, pops the key assembly right out. Kind of
> like having your rag top cut open when the doors were unlocked.
I agree but apparently it's "easier" to carry something that can smash the side
of the column instead of a slide-puller. Besides, when the cops stop someone
it's more likely they'll get charged with something when carrying an obvious
burglary tool. Say what you will about that whole issue but someone caught
lurking around in the middle of the night while carrying a slide hammer or bolt
cutters is probably not up to any good.
Sadly, many ignitions don't even require pulling the cylinder. Just jam a
heavyweight slotted screwdriver in they key slot; one with a squared shaft, and
then just force the whole thing to turn with a pair of vise-grips.
I was just appalled they stole my beat-to-crap XJ. Only to find it was on a
bone-dry tank and have to abandon it a mere two miles up the road. The cop's
response was "looks don't matter, they were just too lazy to walk". The
funniest part was getting a call two weeks later from a patrol car that "found"
my XJ. This was after it had /already/ been recovered the first time. I asked
him were it was (out in front of my workplace), told him it had already been
found once and then I ran like hell out there to make sure they didn't tow it
AGAIN.
I'm glad they were on the ball enough to be looking for it but would've thought
they'd have stopped trying after the first time...
-Bill Kearney
> slide hammer type dent puller, pops the key assembly right out. Kind of
> like having your rag top cut open when the doors were unlocked.
I agree but apparently it's "easier" to carry something that can smash the side
of the column instead of a slide-puller. Besides, when the cops stop someone
it's more likely they'll get charged with something when carrying an obvious
burglary tool. Say what you will about that whole issue but someone caught
lurking around in the middle of the night while carrying a slide hammer or bolt
cutters is probably not up to any good.
Sadly, many ignitions don't even require pulling the cylinder. Just jam a
heavyweight slotted screwdriver in they key slot; one with a squared shaft, and
then just force the whole thing to turn with a pair of vise-grips.
I was just appalled they stole my beat-to-crap XJ. Only to find it was on a
bone-dry tank and have to abandon it a mere two miles up the road. The cop's
response was "looks don't matter, they were just too lazy to walk". The
funniest part was getting a call two weeks later from a patrol car that "found"
my XJ. This was after it had /already/ been recovered the first time. I asked
him were it was (out in front of my workplace), told him it had already been
found once and then I ran like hell out there to make sure they didn't tow it
AGAIN.
I'm glad they were on the ball enough to be looking for it but would've thought
they'd have stopped trying after the first time...
-Bill Kearney
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: GM steering column?
> Geez, I've only seen that once. I thought it was common knowledge a
> slide hammer type dent puller, pops the key assembly right out. Kind of
> like having your rag top cut open when the doors were unlocked.
I agree but apparently it's "easier" to carry something that can smash the side
of the column instead of a slide-puller. Besides, when the cops stop someone
it's more likely they'll get charged with something when carrying an obvious
burglary tool. Say what you will about that whole issue but someone caught
lurking around in the middle of the night while carrying a slide hammer or bolt
cutters is probably not up to any good.
Sadly, many ignitions don't even require pulling the cylinder. Just jam a
heavyweight slotted screwdriver in they key slot; one with a squared shaft, and
then just force the whole thing to turn with a pair of vise-grips.
I was just appalled they stole my beat-to-crap XJ. Only to find it was on a
bone-dry tank and have to abandon it a mere two miles up the road. The cop's
response was "looks don't matter, they were just too lazy to walk". The
funniest part was getting a call two weeks later from a patrol car that "found"
my XJ. This was after it had /already/ been recovered the first time. I asked
him were it was (out in front of my workplace), told him it had already been
found once and then I ran like hell out there to make sure they didn't tow it
AGAIN.
I'm glad they were on the ball enough to be looking for it but would've thought
they'd have stopped trying after the first time...
-Bill Kearney
> slide hammer type dent puller, pops the key assembly right out. Kind of
> like having your rag top cut open when the doors were unlocked.
I agree but apparently it's "easier" to carry something that can smash the side
of the column instead of a slide-puller. Besides, when the cops stop someone
it's more likely they'll get charged with something when carrying an obvious
burglary tool. Say what you will about that whole issue but someone caught
lurking around in the middle of the night while carrying a slide hammer or bolt
cutters is probably not up to any good.
Sadly, many ignitions don't even require pulling the cylinder. Just jam a
heavyweight slotted screwdriver in they key slot; one with a squared shaft, and
then just force the whole thing to turn with a pair of vise-grips.
I was just appalled they stole my beat-to-crap XJ. Only to find it was on a
bone-dry tank and have to abandon it a mere two miles up the road. The cop's
response was "looks don't matter, they were just too lazy to walk". The
funniest part was getting a call two weeks later from a patrol car that "found"
my XJ. This was after it had /already/ been recovered the first time. I asked
him were it was (out in front of my workplace), told him it had already been
found once and then I ran like hell out there to make sure they didn't tow it
AGAIN.
I'm glad they were on the ball enough to be looking for it but would've thought
they'd have stopped trying after the first time...
-Bill Kearney
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: GM steering column?
> He shouldn't even need the entire column, just the plastic parts above the
> dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> together.
I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
it.
The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
trouble to use a new one.
> wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> the next one you see that has the features you want.
Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
> Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> months.
I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
-Bill Kearney
> dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> together.
I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
it.
The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
trouble to use a new one.
> wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> the next one you see that has the features you want.
Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
> Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> months.
I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
-Bill Kearney
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: GM steering column?
> He shouldn't even need the entire column, just the plastic parts above the
> dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> together.
I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
it.
The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
trouble to use a new one.
> wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> the next one you see that has the features you want.
Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
> Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> months.
I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
-Bill Kearney
> dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> together.
I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
it.
The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
trouble to use a new one.
> wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> the next one you see that has the features you want.
Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
> Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> months.
I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
-Bill Kearney
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: GM steering column?
> He shouldn't even need the entire column, just the plastic parts above the
> dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> together.
I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
it.
The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
trouble to use a new one.
> wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> the next one you see that has the features you want.
Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
> Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> months.
I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
-Bill Kearney
> dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> together.
I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
it.
The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
trouble to use a new one.
> wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> the next one you see that has the features you want.
Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
> Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> months.
I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
-Bill Kearney
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: GM steering column?
> He shouldn't even need the entire column, just the plastic parts above the
> dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> together.
I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
it.
The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
trouble to use a new one.
> wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> the next one you see that has the features you want.
Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
> Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> months.
I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
-Bill Kearney
> dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> together.
I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
it.
The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
trouble to use a new one.
> wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> the next one you see that has the features you want.
Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
> Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> months.
I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
-Bill Kearney
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: GM steering column?
The column comes apart just at the firewall. There is a clamp on the
engine side at the firewall with a spline fitting you undo and a few
bolts on the inside plate.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
wkearney99 wrote:
>
> > He shouldn't even need the entire column, just the plastic parts above the
> > dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> > disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> > couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> > together.
>
> I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
> trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
> release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
> how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
> it.
>
> The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
> It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
> just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
> replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
> one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
> trouble to use a new one.
>
> > wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> > interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> > steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> > the next one you see that has the features you want.
>
> Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
>
> > Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> > apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> > months.
>
> I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
> just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
> wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
>
> -Bill Kearney
engine side at the firewall with a spline fitting you undo and a few
bolts on the inside plate.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
wkearney99 wrote:
>
> > He shouldn't even need the entire column, just the plastic parts above the
> > dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> > disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> > couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> > together.
>
> I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
> trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
> release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
> how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
> it.
>
> The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
> It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
> just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
> replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
> one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
> trouble to use a new one.
>
> > wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> > interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> > steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> > the next one you see that has the features you want.
>
> Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
>
> > Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> > apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> > months.
>
> I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
> just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
> wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
>
> -Bill Kearney
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: GM steering column?
The column comes apart just at the firewall. There is a clamp on the
engine side at the firewall with a spline fitting you undo and a few
bolts on the inside plate.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
wkearney99 wrote:
>
> > He shouldn't even need the entire column, just the plastic parts above the
> > dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> > disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> > couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> > together.
>
> I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
> trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
> release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
> how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
> it.
>
> The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
> It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
> just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
> replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
> one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
> trouble to use a new one.
>
> > wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> > interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> > steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> > the next one you see that has the features you want.
>
> Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
>
> > Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> > apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> > months.
>
> I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
> just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
> wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
>
> -Bill Kearney
engine side at the firewall with a spline fitting you undo and a few
bolts on the inside plate.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
wkearney99 wrote:
>
> > He shouldn't even need the entire column, just the plastic parts above the
> > dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> > disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> > couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> > together.
>
> I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
> trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
> release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
> how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
> it.
>
> The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
> It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
> just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
> replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
> one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
> trouble to use a new one.
>
> > wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> > interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> > steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> > the next one you see that has the features you want.
>
> Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
>
> > Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> > apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> > months.
>
> I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
> just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
> wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
>
> -Bill Kearney
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: GM steering column?
The column comes apart just at the firewall. There is a clamp on the
engine side at the firewall with a spline fitting you undo and a few
bolts on the inside plate.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
wkearney99 wrote:
>
> > He shouldn't even need the entire column, just the plastic parts above the
> > dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> > disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> > couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> > together.
>
> I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
> trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
> release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
> how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
> it.
>
> The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
> It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
> just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
> replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
> one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
> trouble to use a new one.
>
> > wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> > interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> > steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> > the next one you see that has the features you want.
>
> Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
>
> > Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> > apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> > months.
>
> I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
> just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
> wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
>
> -Bill Kearney
engine side at the firewall with a spline fitting you undo and a few
bolts on the inside plate.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
wkearney99 wrote:
>
> > He shouldn't even need the entire column, just the plastic parts above the
> > dash and the metal tube that extends through the firewall. It all
> > disassembles from the top end and, if I recall correctly, there's just a
> > couple of machine screws down there below the signal switch holding it
> > together.
>
> I sorta figured it'd be easier to replace the thing in it's entirety instead of
> trying to mix-match the pieces. I could be wrong. Drop the support bolts,
> release the steering box end, pull the whole thing and put in another. Not sure
> how to separate just that portion, let alone find the right one to mate up to
> it.
>
> The tilt mechanism, the lower part of the column and the wheel itself work fine.
> It's the casing in-between the wheel and the tilt that's destroyed. It's not
> just a sleeve, it's a whole cast assembly. Enough of it's broken to require
> replacing all of that portion. The lock cylinder is fine but since it's only
> one key (GM-sourced units had a door key and a separate ignition) it'd be no
> trouble to use a new one.
>
> > wkearney: I'll bet a black steering column wouldn't look bad in a maroon
> > interior and Krylon's "Fusion" paint for plastic works well on plastic
> > steering column parts. If you can live with a black column you can grab
> > the next one you see that has the features you want.
>
> Yes, I think this is what I'll do.
>
> > Oh, and consider replacing the signal light switch while you've got it
> > apart. You'll hate yourself if you have to take it apart again in 6
> > months.
>
> I already have to replace the stalk, they demolished it during the theft. I've
> just thumbed the signal actuator manually and used another switch for the
> wipers. Yes, this was the lazy-mans approach.
>
> -Bill Kearney