So you think that there is a greater chance of a maladjusted T-case lever
than a dry or defective ball joint?.. on a vehicle with only 5000 miles?..
T-case problems would more likely show up whether turning or moving in a
straight line..

Not wishing to be rude, but your knowledge of Jeep transfer cases and their
shift patterns seems limited.. Mike Romain has already pointed out that
driving in 4 part time will break the entire system.. when attempting to
drive on a paved surface in 4 part time, there is a very different feel to
the vehicle, especially when negotiating a turn.. my Jeep if used on paved
surfaces in 4 part really doesn't want to turn at all.. it is not just a
case of a grinding noise, trust me..

As for 'wiggling' the lever?.. haha.. transfer case shifters do not wiggle..
certainly not on mine ('94 GC) or any others that I have come across..

Anyway, I don't want to steal anybody's thunder here, and will go back to
doing what I do best in the computer newsgroups, and call in occasionally to
see how it all pans out..

Good luck


"Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
news:10padm8l0ig49d7@corp.supernews.com...
> It's a brand new car with only 5000 miles. It hasn't got bad joints
> anywhere. Do not look to things that will cause problems all of the time,
> look to things that can be driver induced, like not shifting fully out of
> 4WD.
>
> Yes, the OP needs to determine all of those things, but the place to start
> is with things that she might have done on her own. Or, if she sent her
> husband and his brother to the store for milk, and they took the scenic
> route and pulle3d the lever for 4WD, then did not fully push the lever
> back,
> then preciesly the problems whe has described would occur. If it is easy
> to
> pull the lever, then push it back to a place other than the right place,
> then the linkage to the lever is maladjusted, and the test for this is to
> wiggle the lever and see if one can create the symptom.
>
> Bill seldom knows more than anybody here, but he can be counted on to have
> a
> link to pretty much anything. You are right, there is a chance that there
> is
> a dry ball joint from the factory, there is always that chance. There is
> an
> even greater chance that the OP or somebody she knows pulled the lever to
> see what it does, then failed to set the lever back to the right place.
> They
> might _think_ the lever is in the right place, but the maladjusted linkage
> means it really is not. No matter what the real problem is, the dealer is
> not seeing it, and the OP says it is intermittant. I only offer
> suggestions
> to invoke certain tests that might help to dial in the service effort, or
> exclude crap like a poorly adjusted linkage.
>
> Too bad you came into the discussion after all of the other suggestions
> just
> like the ones you made have already been made.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:ul7ld.34538$Z7.1226093@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so
> it
>> happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
>> T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal joints,
>> brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
>> suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens.. just
>> because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been
> no
>> recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP needs
> to
>> determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
>> making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to the
>> dealer at the point where the noise starts..
>>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
>> > She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little
>> > diagnostic
>> > work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
>> > problem.
>> > I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can
> actually
>> > see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we
> are
>> > about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's
> eyes.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> > news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
>> >> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> >> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
>> >> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO,
> then
>> > go
>> >> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can
>> >> > do
>> >> > is
>> >> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just
> to
>> > be
>> >> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
>> >> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
>> >> >>
>> >> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> >> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
>> >> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
>> > track,
>> >> >> but
>> >> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem
> pretty
>> >> > well.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select
> track,
>> >> >> > and
>> >> >> if
>> >> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection
>> >> >> > was
>> > the
>> >> >> part
>> >> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into
> 2HI,
>> > and
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
>> >> >> > only
>> >> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the
> linkage,
>> >> >> > this
>> >> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully
> disengage.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through
> part
>> >> >> time
>> >> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when
> in
>> > F/T
>> >> >> 4WD
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>

 

It's a secret recall, they're not listed for '02 either:
http://alldata.com/TSB/04/020441F1.html They're the same joints as this
Durango: http://www.----------.com/balljoint.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Angela wrote:
>
> thanks I did that but nothing came up. Bill mentioned the recall issue but
> that was for 2002/03 Liberty's. Mine was made this year

 

It's a secret recall, they're not listed for '02 either:
http://alldata.com/TSB/04/020441F1.html They're the same joints as this
Durango: http://www.----------.com/balljoint.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Angela wrote:
>
> thanks I did that but nothing came up. Bill mentioned the recall issue but
> that was for 2002/03 Liberty's. Mine was made this year

 

It's a secret recall, they're not listed for '02 either:
http://alldata.com/TSB/04/020441F1.html They're the same joints as this
Durango: http://www.----------.com/balljoint.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Angela wrote:
>
> thanks I did that but nothing came up. Bill mentioned the recall issue but
> that was for 2002/03 Liberty's. Mine was made this year

 

"Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:nncld.56776$km5.2258347@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> So you think that there is a greater chance of a maladjusted T-case lever
> than a dry or defective ball joint?.. on a vehicle with only 5000 miles?..
> T-case problems would more likely show up whether turning or moving in a
> straight line..
>
Yes, either that or troubles with the viscous coupling in the tcase.

Either way, the OP can experiment in various ways with the tcase shifter to
confirm or deny the tcase as the source of the problem.

The ball joints will not make the steering wheel wobble, but the ujoints
could. Ujoints usually do not cause the steering wheel to wobble though, and
they almost never make a whining noise.

Given the description of the symptoms by the OP, the trouble is in the tcase
somewhere. That or just maybe the front differential. My vote is on the
tcase.


> Not wishing to be rude, but your knowledge of Jeep transfer cases and
> their shift patterns seems limited.. Mike Romain has already pointed out
> that driving in 4 part time will break the entire system.. when attempting
> to drive on a paved surface in 4 part time, there is a very different feel
> to the vehicle, especially when negotiating a turn.. my Jeep if used on
> paved surfaces in 4 part really doesn't want to turn at all.. it is not
> just a case of a grinding noise, trust me..
>

I know plenty about tcase operation, and I have a D300 tcase so I do not
know specifically how the lever works on the SelecTrac. But, this discussion
does not demand an intimate knowledge of the shift pattern of the SelecTrac.
Having said that, I did accurately describe that the shifter pulls through
Full Time to Part Time on its way to 2HI. Since this is not in dispute, and
my thesis is that the linkage is not adjusted properly, or is loose (which
means a single bolt is not tight), it is entirely possible the shift fork
inside the tcase allows Part Time 4WD gears and sprockets to be partially
engaged.

Driving in 4WD will NOT result in instant and sudden failure. And, if the
linkage is maladjusted, it could very easily be right on the edge of
engaged, and with a short amount of time, it will eventually push itself out
of the partial selection that it is in. It will ultimately result in
complete and total failure, so this problem needs to be resolved soon.

Given what the OP told us, my guess is the linkage is maladjusted, or the VC
is unhappy in some way, causing it to be partially locked up. Either of
these two things can create noise - although the VC should make noise before
anything else, and both can cause the steering wheel to wobble. If the VC is
the trouble, it should not even be in the picture in 2WD, therefore not part
of the problem. but, if the linkage is the trouble, then Part Time 4WD will
be slightly engaged even when the operator is intending to be in 2WD. The
result will be the wobble and the noise.



> As for 'wiggling' the lever?.. haha.. transfer case shifters do not
> wiggle.. certainly not on mine ('94 GC) or any others that I have come
> across..
>
Wiggle as in move it fore and aft along its normal path of travel. There are
detents where it stops when it is in each of its operating modes. If the
linkage is maladjusted, these detents will not be in the right places. I
don't even onw a Jeep with this kind of tcase, yet I have made precisely
this repair while on the trail. There is a bolt that clamps down on a shaft.
The bolt comes loose, and the shifter looks like it should be somewhere, but
it really isn't there. If one pulls or pushes the shifter past the desired
point, then pushes or pulls the lever back to its specified location, one
can overcome the maladjustment for a very long time before the bolt
eventually becomes so loose that gear selection is impossible.



> Anyway, I don't want to steal anybody's thunder here, and will go back to
> doing what I do best in the computer newsgroups, and call in occasionally
> to see how it all pans out..
>
> Good luck
>

I don't need any luck. The OP is the one that is trying to sort out a
problem, and the best advice you had was to take it in.




>
> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> news:10padm8l0ig49d7@corp.supernews.com...
>> It's a brand new car with only 5000 miles. It hasn't got bad joints
>> anywhere. Do not look to things that will cause problems all of the time,
>> look to things that can be driver induced, like not shifting fully out of
>> 4WD.
>>
>> Yes, the OP needs to determine all of those things, but the place to
>> start
>> is with things that she might have done on her own. Or, if she sent her
>> husband and his brother to the store for milk, and they took the scenic
>> route and pulle3d the lever for 4WD, then did not fully push the lever
>> back,
>> then preciesly the problems whe has described would occur. If it is easy
>> to
>> pull the lever, then push it back to a place other than the right place,
>> then the linkage to the lever is maladjusted, and the test for this is to
>> wiggle the lever and see if one can create the symptom.
>>
>> Bill seldom knows more than anybody here, but he can be counted on to
>> have a
>> link to pretty much anything. You are right, there is a chance that there
>> is
>> a dry ball joint from the factory, there is always that chance. There is
>> an
>> even greater chance that the OP or somebody she knows pulled the lever to
>> see what it does, then failed to set the lever back to the right place.
>> They
>> might _think_ the lever is in the right place, but the maladjusted
>> linkage
>> means it really is not. No matter what the real problem is, the dealer is
>> not seeing it, and the OP says it is intermittant. I only offer
>> suggestions
>> to invoke certain tests that might help to dial in the service effort, or
>> exclude crap like a poorly adjusted linkage.
>>
>> Too bad you came into the discussion after all of the other suggestions
>> just
>> like the ones you made have already been made.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:ul7ld.34538$Z7.1226093@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>>> OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so
>> it
>>> happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
>>> T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal
>>> joints,
>>> brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
>>> suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens..
>>> just
>>> because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been
>> no
>>> recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP
>>> needs
>> to
>>> determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
>>> making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to
>>> the
>>> dealer at the point where the noise starts..
>>>
>>>
>>> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>>> news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
>>> > She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little
>>> > diagnostic
>>> > work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
>>> > problem.
>>> > I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can
>> actually
>>> > see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we
>> are
>>> > about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's
>> eyes.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> > news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
>>> >> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>>> >> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
>>> >> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO,
>> then
>>> > go
>>> >> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can
>>> >> > do
>>> >> > is
>>> >> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop
>>> >> > just
>> to
>>> > be
>>> >> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
>>> >> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>>> >> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
>>> >> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
>>> > track,
>>> >> >> but
>>> >> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem
>> pretty
>>> >> > well.
>>> >> >> >
>>> >> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select
>> track,
>>> >> >> > and
>>> >> >> if
>>> >> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection
>>> >> >> > was
>>> > the
>>> >> >> part
>>> >> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into
>> 2HI,
>>> > and
>>> >> >> the
>>> >> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
>>> >> >> >
>>> >> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
>>> >> >> > only
>>> >> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the
>> linkage,
>>> >> >> > this
>>> >> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully
>> disengage.
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through
>> part
>>> >> >> time
>>> >> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when
>> in
>>> > F/T
>>> >> >> 4WD
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

"Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:nncld.56776$km5.2258347@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> So you think that there is a greater chance of a maladjusted T-case lever
> than a dry or defective ball joint?.. on a vehicle with only 5000 miles?..
> T-case problems would more likely show up whether turning or moving in a
> straight line..
>
Yes, either that or troubles with the viscous coupling in the tcase.

Either way, the OP can experiment in various ways with the tcase shifter to
confirm or deny the tcase as the source of the problem.

The ball joints will not make the steering wheel wobble, but the ujoints
could. Ujoints usually do not cause the steering wheel to wobble though, and
they almost never make a whining noise.

Given the description of the symptoms by the OP, the trouble is in the tcase
somewhere. That or just maybe the front differential. My vote is on the
tcase.


> Not wishing to be rude, but your knowledge of Jeep transfer cases and
> their shift patterns seems limited.. Mike Romain has already pointed out
> that driving in 4 part time will break the entire system.. when attempting
> to drive on a paved surface in 4 part time, there is a very different feel
> to the vehicle, especially when negotiating a turn.. my Jeep if used on
> paved surfaces in 4 part really doesn't want to turn at all.. it is not
> just a case of a grinding noise, trust me..
>

I know plenty about tcase operation, and I have a D300 tcase so I do not
know specifically how the lever works on the SelecTrac. But, this discussion
does not demand an intimate knowledge of the shift pattern of the SelecTrac.
Having said that, I did accurately describe that the shifter pulls through
Full Time to Part Time on its way to 2HI. Since this is not in dispute, and
my thesis is that the linkage is not adjusted properly, or is loose (which
means a single bolt is not tight), it is entirely possible the shift fork
inside the tcase allows Part Time 4WD gears and sprockets to be partially
engaged.

Driving in 4WD will NOT result in instant and sudden failure. And, if the
linkage is maladjusted, it could very easily be right on the edge of
engaged, and with a short amount of time, it will eventually push itself out
of the partial selection that it is in. It will ultimately result in
complete and total failure, so this problem needs to be resolved soon.

Given what the OP told us, my guess is the linkage is maladjusted, or the VC
is unhappy in some way, causing it to be partially locked up. Either of
these two things can create noise - although the VC should make noise before
anything else, and both can cause the steering wheel to wobble. If the VC is
the trouble, it should not even be in the picture in 2WD, therefore not part
of the problem. but, if the linkage is the trouble, then Part Time 4WD will
be slightly engaged even when the operator is intending to be in 2WD. The
result will be the wobble and the noise.



> As for 'wiggling' the lever?.. haha.. transfer case shifters do not
> wiggle.. certainly not on mine ('94 GC) or any others that I have come
> across..
>
Wiggle as in move it fore and aft along its normal path of travel. There are
detents where it stops when it is in each of its operating modes. If the
linkage is maladjusted, these detents will not be in the right places. I
don't even onw a Jeep with this kind of tcase, yet I have made precisely
this repair while on the trail. There is a bolt that clamps down on a shaft.
The bolt comes loose, and the shifter looks like it should be somewhere, but
it really isn't there. If one pulls or pushes the shifter past the desired
point, then pushes or pulls the lever back to its specified location, one
can overcome the maladjustment for a very long time before the bolt
eventually becomes so loose that gear selection is impossible.



> Anyway, I don't want to steal anybody's thunder here, and will go back to
> doing what I do best in the computer newsgroups, and call in occasionally
> to see how it all pans out..
>
> Good luck
>

I don't need any luck. The OP is the one that is trying to sort out a
problem, and the best advice you had was to take it in.




>
> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> news:10padm8l0ig49d7@corp.supernews.com...
>> It's a brand new car with only 5000 miles. It hasn't got bad joints
>> anywhere. Do not look to things that will cause problems all of the time,
>> look to things that can be driver induced, like not shifting fully out of
>> 4WD.
>>
>> Yes, the OP needs to determine all of those things, but the place to
>> start
>> is with things that she might have done on her own. Or, if she sent her
>> husband and his brother to the store for milk, and they took the scenic
>> route and pulle3d the lever for 4WD, then did not fully push the lever
>> back,
>> then preciesly the problems whe has described would occur. If it is easy
>> to
>> pull the lever, then push it back to a place other than the right place,
>> then the linkage to the lever is maladjusted, and the test for this is to
>> wiggle the lever and see if one can create the symptom.
>>
>> Bill seldom knows more than anybody here, but he can be counted on to
>> have a
>> link to pretty much anything. You are right, there is a chance that there
>> is
>> a dry ball joint from the factory, there is always that chance. There is
>> an
>> even greater chance that the OP or somebody she knows pulled the lever to
>> see what it does, then failed to set the lever back to the right place.
>> They
>> might _think_ the lever is in the right place, but the maladjusted
>> linkage
>> means it really is not. No matter what the real problem is, the dealer is
>> not seeing it, and the OP says it is intermittant. I only offer
>> suggestions
>> to invoke certain tests that might help to dial in the service effort, or
>> exclude crap like a poorly adjusted linkage.
>>
>> Too bad you came into the discussion after all of the other suggestions
>> just
>> like the ones you made have already been made.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:ul7ld.34538$Z7.1226093@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>>> OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so
>> it
>>> happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
>>> T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal
>>> joints,
>>> brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
>>> suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens..
>>> just
>>> because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been
>> no
>>> recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP
>>> needs
>> to
>>> determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
>>> making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to
>>> the
>>> dealer at the point where the noise starts..
>>>
>>>
>>> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>>> news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
>>> > She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little
>>> > diagnostic
>>> > work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
>>> > problem.
>>> > I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can
>> actually
>>> > see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we
>> are
>>> > about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's
>> eyes.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> > news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
>>> >> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>>> >> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
>>> >> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO,
>> then
>>> > go
>>> >> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can
>>> >> > do
>>> >> > is
>>> >> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop
>>> >> > just
>> to
>>> > be
>>> >> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
>>> >> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>>> >> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
>>> >> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
>>> > track,
>>> >> >> but
>>> >> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem
>> pretty
>>> >> > well.
>>> >> >> >
>>> >> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select
>> track,
>>> >> >> > and
>>> >> >> if
>>> >> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection
>>> >> >> > was
>>> > the
>>> >> >> part
>>> >> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into
>> 2HI,
>>> > and
>>> >> >> the
>>> >> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
>>> >> >> >
>>> >> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
>>> >> >> > only
>>> >> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the
>> linkage,
>>> >> >> > this
>>> >> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully
>> disengage.
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through
>> part
>>> >> >> time
>>> >> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when
>> in
>>> > F/T
>>> >> >> 4WD
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

"Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:nncld.56776$km5.2258347@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> So you think that there is a greater chance of a maladjusted T-case lever
> than a dry or defective ball joint?.. on a vehicle with only 5000 miles?..
> T-case problems would more likely show up whether turning or moving in a
> straight line..
>
Yes, either that or troubles with the viscous coupling in the tcase.

Either way, the OP can experiment in various ways with the tcase shifter to
confirm or deny the tcase as the source of the problem.

The ball joints will not make the steering wheel wobble, but the ujoints
could. Ujoints usually do not cause the steering wheel to wobble though, and
they almost never make a whining noise.

Given the description of the symptoms by the OP, the trouble is in the tcase
somewhere. That or just maybe the front differential. My vote is on the
tcase.


> Not wishing to be rude, but your knowledge of Jeep transfer cases and
> their shift patterns seems limited.. Mike Romain has already pointed out
> that driving in 4 part time will break the entire system.. when attempting
> to drive on a paved surface in 4 part time, there is a very different feel
> to the vehicle, especially when negotiating a turn.. my Jeep if used on
> paved surfaces in 4 part really doesn't want to turn at all.. it is not
> just a case of a grinding noise, trust me..
>

I know plenty about tcase operation, and I have a D300 tcase so I do not
know specifically how the lever works on the SelecTrac. But, this discussion
does not demand an intimate knowledge of the shift pattern of the SelecTrac.
Having said that, I did accurately describe that the shifter pulls through
Full Time to Part Time on its way to 2HI. Since this is not in dispute, and
my thesis is that the linkage is not adjusted properly, or is loose (which
means a single bolt is not tight), it is entirely possible the shift fork
inside the tcase allows Part Time 4WD gears and sprockets to be partially
engaged.

Driving in 4WD will NOT result in instant and sudden failure. And, if the
linkage is maladjusted, it could very easily be right on the edge of
engaged, and with a short amount of time, it will eventually push itself out
of the partial selection that it is in. It will ultimately result in
complete and total failure, so this problem needs to be resolved soon.

Given what the OP told us, my guess is the linkage is maladjusted, or the VC
is unhappy in some way, causing it to be partially locked up. Either of
these two things can create noise - although the VC should make noise before
anything else, and both can cause the steering wheel to wobble. If the VC is
the trouble, it should not even be in the picture in 2WD, therefore not part
of the problem. but, if the linkage is the trouble, then Part Time 4WD will
be slightly engaged even when the operator is intending to be in 2WD. The
result will be the wobble and the noise.



> As for 'wiggling' the lever?.. haha.. transfer case shifters do not
> wiggle.. certainly not on mine ('94 GC) or any others that I have come
> across..
>
Wiggle as in move it fore and aft along its normal path of travel. There are
detents where it stops when it is in each of its operating modes. If the
linkage is maladjusted, these detents will not be in the right places. I
don't even onw a Jeep with this kind of tcase, yet I have made precisely
this repair while on the trail. There is a bolt that clamps down on a shaft.
The bolt comes loose, and the shifter looks like it should be somewhere, but
it really isn't there. If one pulls or pushes the shifter past the desired
point, then pushes or pulls the lever back to its specified location, one
can overcome the maladjustment for a very long time before the bolt
eventually becomes so loose that gear selection is impossible.



> Anyway, I don't want to steal anybody's thunder here, and will go back to
> doing what I do best in the computer newsgroups, and call in occasionally
> to see how it all pans out..
>
> Good luck
>

I don't need any luck. The OP is the one that is trying to sort out a
problem, and the best advice you had was to take it in.




>
> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> news:10padm8l0ig49d7@corp.supernews.com...
>> It's a brand new car with only 5000 miles. It hasn't got bad joints
>> anywhere. Do not look to things that will cause problems all of the time,
>> look to things that can be driver induced, like not shifting fully out of
>> 4WD.
>>
>> Yes, the OP needs to determine all of those things, but the place to
>> start
>> is with things that she might have done on her own. Or, if she sent her
>> husband and his brother to the store for milk, and they took the scenic
>> route and pulle3d the lever for 4WD, then did not fully push the lever
>> back,
>> then preciesly the problems whe has described would occur. If it is easy
>> to
>> pull the lever, then push it back to a place other than the right place,
>> then the linkage to the lever is maladjusted, and the test for this is to
>> wiggle the lever and see if one can create the symptom.
>>
>> Bill seldom knows more than anybody here, but he can be counted on to
>> have a
>> link to pretty much anything. You are right, there is a chance that there
>> is
>> a dry ball joint from the factory, there is always that chance. There is
>> an
>> even greater chance that the OP or somebody she knows pulled the lever to
>> see what it does, then failed to set the lever back to the right place.
>> They
>> might _think_ the lever is in the right place, but the maladjusted
>> linkage
>> means it really is not. No matter what the real problem is, the dealer is
>> not seeing it, and the OP says it is intermittant. I only offer
>> suggestions
>> to invoke certain tests that might help to dial in the service effort, or
>> exclude crap like a poorly adjusted linkage.
>>
>> Too bad you came into the discussion after all of the other suggestions
>> just
>> like the ones you made have already been made.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:ul7ld.34538$Z7.1226093@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>>> OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so
>> it
>>> happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
>>> T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal
>>> joints,
>>> brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
>>> suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens..
>>> just
>>> because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been
>> no
>>> recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP
>>> needs
>> to
>>> determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
>>> making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to
>>> the
>>> dealer at the point where the noise starts..
>>>
>>>
>>> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>>> news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
>>> > She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little
>>> > diagnostic
>>> > work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
>>> > problem.
>>> > I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can
>> actually
>>> > see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we
>> are
>>> > about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's
>> eyes.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> > news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
>>> >> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>>> >> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
>>> >> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO,
>> then
>>> > go
>>> >> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can
>>> >> > do
>>> >> > is
>>> >> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop
>>> >> > just
>> to
>>> > be
>>> >> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
>>> >> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>>> >> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
>>> >> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
>>> > track,
>>> >> >> but
>>> >> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem
>> pretty
>>> >> > well.
>>> >> >> >
>>> >> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select
>> track,
>>> >> >> > and
>>> >> >> if
>>> >> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection
>>> >> >> > was
>>> > the
>>> >> >> part
>>> >> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into
>> 2HI,
>>> > and
>>> >> >> the
>>> >> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
>>> >> >> >
>>> >> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
>>> >> >> > only
>>> >> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the
>> linkage,
>>> >> >> > this
>>> >> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully
>> disengage.
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through
>> part
>>> >> >> time
>>> >> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when
>> in
>>> > F/T
>>> >> >> 4WD
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10paqrhibia0u90@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:nncld.56776$km5.2258347@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> > So you think that there is a greater chance of a maladjusted T-case
lever
> > than a dry or defective ball joint?.. on a vehicle with only 5000
miles?..
> > T-case problems would more likely show up whether turning or moving in a
> > straight line..
> >
> Yes, either that or troubles with the viscous coupling in the tcase.
>
> Either way, the OP can experiment in various ways with the tcase shifter
to
> confirm or deny the tcase as the source of the problem.
>
> The ball joints will not make the steering wheel wobble, but the ujoints
> could. Ujoints usually do not cause the steering wheel to wobble though,
and
> they almost never make a whining noise.
>
> Given the description of the symptoms by the OP, the trouble is in the
tcase
> somewhere. That or just maybe the front differential. My vote is on the
> tcase.

I have tried both Full time 4WD and 2WD making sure the lever is in the
correct place. It makes the noise in both 2WD and 4WD. I have been keeping
a very close eye on when it does it for the last week, interestingly it is
much more likely to do it when I have a passenger and if the road is more
bumpy as I'm going around the corner, that's probably why I can never seem
to get it to happen when the dealership is open as during the day I tend to
be on my own - I may take it in and get them to ride with me see if we can
get the noise to come. It was very bad on friday night but I haven't had a
peep from it this weekend!!

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10paqrhibia0u90@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:nncld.56776$km5.2258347@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> > So you think that there is a greater chance of a maladjusted T-case
lever
> > than a dry or defective ball joint?.. on a vehicle with only 5000
miles?..
> > T-case problems would more likely show up whether turning or moving in a
> > straight line..
> >
> Yes, either that or troubles with the viscous coupling in the tcase.
>
> Either way, the OP can experiment in various ways with the tcase shifter
to
> confirm or deny the tcase as the source of the problem.
>
> The ball joints will not make the steering wheel wobble, but the ujoints
> could. Ujoints usually do not cause the steering wheel to wobble though,
and
> they almost never make a whining noise.
>
> Given the description of the symptoms by the OP, the trouble is in the
tcase
> somewhere. That or just maybe the front differential. My vote is on the
> tcase.

I have tried both Full time 4WD and 2WD making sure the lever is in the
correct place. It makes the noise in both 2WD and 4WD. I have been keeping
a very close eye on when it does it for the last week, interestingly it is
much more likely to do it when I have a passenger and if the road is more
bumpy as I'm going around the corner, that's probably why I can never seem
to get it to happen when the dealership is open as during the day I tend to
be on my own - I may take it in and get them to ride with me see if we can
get the noise to come. It was very bad on friday night but I haven't had a
peep from it this weekend!!

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10paqrhibia0u90@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:nncld.56776$km5.2258347@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> > So you think that there is a greater chance of a maladjusted T-case
lever
> > than a dry or defective ball joint?.. on a vehicle with only 5000
miles?..
> > T-case problems would more likely show up whether turning or moving in a
> > straight line..
> >
> Yes, either that or troubles with the viscous coupling in the tcase.
>
> Either way, the OP can experiment in various ways with the tcase shifter
to
> confirm or deny the tcase as the source of the problem.
>
> The ball joints will not make the steering wheel wobble, but the ujoints
> could. Ujoints usually do not cause the steering wheel to wobble though,
and
> they almost never make a whining noise.
>
> Given the description of the symptoms by the OP, the trouble is in the
tcase
> somewhere. That or just maybe the front differential. My vote is on the
> tcase.

I have tried both Full time 4WD and 2WD making sure the lever is in the
correct place. It makes the noise in both 2WD and 4WD. I have been keeping
a very close eye on when it does it for the last week, interestingly it is
much more likely to do it when I have a passenger and if the road is more
bumpy as I'm going around the corner, that's probably why I can never seem
to get it to happen when the dealership is open as during the day I tend to
be on my own - I may take it in and get them to ride with me see if we can
get the noise to come. It was very bad on friday night but I haven't had a
peep from it this weekend!!