She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little diagnostic
work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the problem.
I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can actually
see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we are
about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's eyes.




"Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO, then
go
> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can do is
> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just to
be
> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> >>
> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
track,
> >> but
> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem pretty
> > well.
> >> >
> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select track,
> >> > and
> >> if
> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection was
the
> >> part
> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into 2HI,
and
> >> the
> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
> >> >
> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble only
> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the linkage,
> >> > this
> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully disengage.
> >>
> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through part
> >> time
> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when in
F/T
> >> 4WD
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

 

She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little diagnostic
work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the problem.
I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can actually
see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we are
about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's eyes.




"Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO, then
go
> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can do is
> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just to
be
> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> >>
> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
track,
> >> but
> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem pretty
> > well.
> >> >
> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select track,
> >> > and
> >> if
> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection was
the
> >> part
> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into 2HI,
and
> >> the
> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
> >> >
> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble only
> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the linkage,
> >> > this
> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully disengage.
> >>
> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through part
> >> time
> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when in
F/T
> >> 4WD
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

 

OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so it
happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal joints,
brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens.. just
because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been no
recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP needs to
determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to the
dealer at the point where the noise starts..


"Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
> She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little diagnostic
> work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
> problem.
> I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can actually
> see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we are
> about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's eyes.
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
>> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
>> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO, then
> go
>> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can do
>> > is
>> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just to
> be
>> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
>> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
>> >>
>> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
>> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
> track,
>> >> but
>> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem pretty
>> > well.
>> >> >
>> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select track,
>> >> > and
>> >> if
>> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection was
> the
>> >> part
>> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into 2HI,
> and
>> >> the
>> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
>> >> >
>> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
>> >> > only
>> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the linkage,
>> >> > this
>> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully disengage.
>> >>
>> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through part
>> >> time
>> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when in
> F/T
>> >> 4WD
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>

 

OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so it
happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal joints,
brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens.. just
because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been no
recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP needs to
determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to the
dealer at the point where the noise starts..


"Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
> She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little diagnostic
> work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
> problem.
> I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can actually
> see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we are
> about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's eyes.
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
>> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
>> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO, then
> go
>> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can do
>> > is
>> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just to
> be
>> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
>> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
>> >>
>> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
>> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
> track,
>> >> but
>> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem pretty
>> > well.
>> >> >
>> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select track,
>> >> > and
>> >> if
>> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection was
> the
>> >> part
>> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into 2HI,
> and
>> >> the
>> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
>> >> >
>> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
>> >> > only
>> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the linkage,
>> >> > this
>> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully disengage.
>> >>
>> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through part
>> >> time
>> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when in
> F/T
>> >> 4WD
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>

 

OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so it
happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal joints,
brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens.. just
because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been no
recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP needs to
determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to the
dealer at the point where the noise starts..


"Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
> She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little diagnostic
> work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
> problem.
> I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can actually
> see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we are
> about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's eyes.
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
>> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
>> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO, then
> go
>> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can do
>> > is
>> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just to
> be
>> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
>> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
>> >>
>> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
>> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
> track,
>> >> but
>> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem pretty
>> > well.
>> >> >
>> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select track,
>> >> > and
>> >> if
>> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection was
> the
>> >> part
>> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into 2HI,
> and
>> >> the
>> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
>> >> >
>> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
>> >> > only
>> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the linkage,
>> >> > this
>> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully disengage.
>> >>
>> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through part
>> >> time
>> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when in
> F/T
>> >> 4WD
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>

 

It's a brand new car with only 5000 miles. It hasn't got bad joints
anywhere. Do not look to things that will cause problems all of the time,
look to things that can be driver induced, like not shifting fully out of
4WD.

Yes, the OP needs to determine all of those things, but the place to start
is with things that she might have done on her own. Or, if she sent her
husband and his brother to the store for milk, and they took the scenic
route and pulle3d the lever for 4WD, then did not fully push the lever back,
then preciesly the problems whe has described would occur. If it is easy to
pull the lever, then push it back to a place other than the right place,
then the linkage to the lever is maladjusted, and the test for this is to
wiggle the lever and see if one can create the symptom.

Bill seldom knows more than anybody here, but he can be counted on to have a
link to pretty much anything. You are right, there is a chance that there is
a dry ball joint from the factory, there is always that chance. There is an
even greater chance that the OP or somebody she knows pulled the lever to
see what it does, then failed to set the lever back to the right place. They
might _think_ the lever is in the right place, but the maladjusted linkage
means it really is not. No matter what the real problem is, the dealer is
not seeing it, and the OP says it is intermittant. I only offer suggestions
to invoke certain tests that might help to dial in the service effort, or
exclude crap like a poorly adjusted linkage.

Too bad you came into the discussion after all of the other suggestions just
like the ones you made have already been made.





"Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:ul7ld.34538$Z7.1226093@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so
it
> happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
> T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal joints,
> brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
> suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens.. just
> because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been
no
> recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP needs
to
> determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
> making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to the
> dealer at the point where the noise starts..
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
> > She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little diagnostic
> > work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
> > problem.
> > I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can
actually
> > see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we
are
> > about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's
eyes.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> >> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
> >>
> >>
> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> >> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
> >> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO,
then
> > go
> >> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can do
> >> > is
> >> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just
to
> > be
> >> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
> >> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> >> >>
> >> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> >> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
> >> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
> > track,
> >> >> but
> >> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem
pretty
> >> > well.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select
track,
> >> >> > and
> >> >> if
> >> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection was
> > the
> >> >> part
> >> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into
2HI,
> > and
> >> >> the
> >> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
> >> >> >
> >> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
> >> >> > only
> >> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the
linkage,
> >> >> > this
> >> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully
disengage.
> >> >>
> >> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through
part
> >> >> time
> >> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when
in
> > F/T
> >> >> 4WD
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

 

It's a brand new car with only 5000 miles. It hasn't got bad joints
anywhere. Do not look to things that will cause problems all of the time,
look to things that can be driver induced, like not shifting fully out of
4WD.

Yes, the OP needs to determine all of those things, but the place to start
is with things that she might have done on her own. Or, if she sent her
husband and his brother to the store for milk, and they took the scenic
route and pulle3d the lever for 4WD, then did not fully push the lever back,
then preciesly the problems whe has described would occur. If it is easy to
pull the lever, then push it back to a place other than the right place,
then the linkage to the lever is maladjusted, and the test for this is to
wiggle the lever and see if one can create the symptom.

Bill seldom knows more than anybody here, but he can be counted on to have a
link to pretty much anything. You are right, there is a chance that there is
a dry ball joint from the factory, there is always that chance. There is an
even greater chance that the OP or somebody she knows pulled the lever to
see what it does, then failed to set the lever back to the right place. They
might _think_ the lever is in the right place, but the maladjusted linkage
means it really is not. No matter what the real problem is, the dealer is
not seeing it, and the OP says it is intermittant. I only offer suggestions
to invoke certain tests that might help to dial in the service effort, or
exclude crap like a poorly adjusted linkage.

Too bad you came into the discussion after all of the other suggestions just
like the ones you made have already been made.





"Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:ul7ld.34538$Z7.1226093@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so
it
> happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
> T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal joints,
> brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
> suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens.. just
> because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been
no
> recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP needs
to
> determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
> making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to the
> dealer at the point where the noise starts..
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
> > She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little diagnostic
> > work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
> > problem.
> > I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can
actually
> > see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we
are
> > about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's
eyes.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> >> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
> >>
> >>
> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> >> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
> >> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO,
then
> > go
> >> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can do
> >> > is
> >> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just
to
> > be
> >> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
> >> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> >> >>
> >> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> >> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
> >> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
> > track,
> >> >> but
> >> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem
pretty
> >> > well.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select
track,
> >> >> > and
> >> >> if
> >> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection was
> > the
> >> >> part
> >> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into
2HI,
> > and
> >> >> the
> >> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
> >> >> >
> >> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
> >> >> > only
> >> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the
linkage,
> >> >> > this
> >> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully
disengage.
> >> >>
> >> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through
part
> >> >> time
> >> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when
in
> > F/T
> >> >> 4WD
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

 

It's a brand new car with only 5000 miles. It hasn't got bad joints
anywhere. Do not look to things that will cause problems all of the time,
look to things that can be driver induced, like not shifting fully out of
4WD.

Yes, the OP needs to determine all of those things, but the place to start
is with things that she might have done on her own. Or, if she sent her
husband and his brother to the store for milk, and they took the scenic
route and pulle3d the lever for 4WD, then did not fully push the lever back,
then preciesly the problems whe has described would occur. If it is easy to
pull the lever, then push it back to a place other than the right place,
then the linkage to the lever is maladjusted, and the test for this is to
wiggle the lever and see if one can create the symptom.

Bill seldom knows more than anybody here, but he can be counted on to have a
link to pretty much anything. You are right, there is a chance that there is
a dry ball joint from the factory, there is always that chance. There is an
even greater chance that the OP or somebody she knows pulled the lever to
see what it does, then failed to set the lever back to the right place. They
might _think_ the lever is in the right place, but the maladjusted linkage
means it really is not. No matter what the real problem is, the dealer is
not seeing it, and the OP says it is intermittant. I only offer suggestions
to invoke certain tests that might help to dial in the service effort, or
exclude crap like a poorly adjusted linkage.

Too bad you came into the discussion after all of the other suggestions just
like the ones you made have already been made.





"Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:ul7ld.34538$Z7.1226093@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so
it
> happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
> T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal joints,
> brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
> suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens.. just
> because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been
no
> recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP needs
to
> determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
> making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to the
> dealer at the point where the noise starts..
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
> > She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little diagnostic
> > work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
> > problem.
> > I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can
actually
> > see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we
are
> > about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's
eyes.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> >> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
> >>
> >>
> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> >> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
> >> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO,
then
> > go
> >> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can do
> >> > is
> >> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just
to
> > be
> >> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
> >> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> >> >>
> >> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
> >> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
> >> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
> > track,
> >> >> but
> >> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem
pretty
> >> > well.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select
track,
> >> >> > and
> >> >> if
> >> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection was
> > the
> >> >> part
> >> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into
2HI,
> > and
> >> >> the
> >> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
> >> >> >
> >> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
> >> >> > only
> >> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the
linkage,
> >> >> > this
> >> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully
disengage.
> >> >>
> >> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through
part
> >> >> time
> >> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when
in
> > F/T
> >> >> 4WD
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

 

So you think that there is a greater chance of a maladjusted T-case lever
than a dry or defective ball joint?.. on a vehicle with only 5000 miles?..
T-case problems would more likely show up whether turning or moving in a
straight line..

Not wishing to be rude, but your knowledge of Jeep transfer cases and their
shift patterns seems limited.. Mike Romain has already pointed out that
driving in 4 part time will break the entire system.. when attempting to
drive on a paved surface in 4 part time, there is a very different feel to
the vehicle, especially when negotiating a turn.. my Jeep if used on paved
surfaces in 4 part really doesn't want to turn at all.. it is not just a
case of a grinding noise, trust me..

As for 'wiggling' the lever?.. haha.. transfer case shifters do not wiggle..
certainly not on mine ('94 GC) or any others that I have come across..

Anyway, I don't want to steal anybody's thunder here, and will go back to
doing what I do best in the computer newsgroups, and call in occasionally to
see how it all pans out..

Good luck


"Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
news:10padm8l0ig49d7@corp.supernews.com...
> It's a brand new car with only 5000 miles. It hasn't got bad joints
> anywhere. Do not look to things that will cause problems all of the time,
> look to things that can be driver induced, like not shifting fully out of
> 4WD.
>
> Yes, the OP needs to determine all of those things, but the place to start
> is with things that she might have done on her own. Or, if she sent her
> husband and his brother to the store for milk, and they took the scenic
> route and pulle3d the lever for 4WD, then did not fully push the lever
> back,
> then preciesly the problems whe has described would occur. If it is easy
> to
> pull the lever, then push it back to a place other than the right place,
> then the linkage to the lever is maladjusted, and the test for this is to
> wiggle the lever and see if one can create the symptom.
>
> Bill seldom knows more than anybody here, but he can be counted on to have
> a
> link to pretty much anything. You are right, there is a chance that there
> is
> a dry ball joint from the factory, there is always that chance. There is
> an
> even greater chance that the OP or somebody she knows pulled the lever to
> see what it does, then failed to set the lever back to the right place.
> They
> might _think_ the lever is in the right place, but the maladjusted linkage
> means it really is not. No matter what the real problem is, the dealer is
> not seeing it, and the OP says it is intermittant. I only offer
> suggestions
> to invoke certain tests that might help to dial in the service effort, or
> exclude crap like a poorly adjusted linkage.
>
> Too bad you came into the discussion after all of the other suggestions
> just
> like the ones you made have already been made.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:ul7ld.34538$Z7.1226093@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so
> it
>> happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
>> T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal joints,
>> brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
>> suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens.. just
>> because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been
> no
>> recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP needs
> to
>> determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
>> making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to the
>> dealer at the point where the noise starts..
>>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
>> > She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little
>> > diagnostic
>> > work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
>> > problem.
>> > I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can
> actually
>> > see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we
> are
>> > about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's
> eyes.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> > news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
>> >> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> >> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
>> >> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO,
> then
>> > go
>> >> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can
>> >> > do
>> >> > is
>> >> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just
> to
>> > be
>> >> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
>> >> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
>> >> >>
>> >> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> >> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
>> >> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
>> > track,
>> >> >> but
>> >> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem
> pretty
>> >> > well.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select
> track,
>> >> >> > and
>> >> >> if
>> >> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection
>> >> >> > was
>> > the
>> >> >> part
>> >> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into
> 2HI,
>> > and
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
>> >> >> > only
>> >> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the
> linkage,
>> >> >> > this
>> >> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully
> disengage.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through
> part
>> >> >> time
>> >> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when
> in
>> > F/T
>> >> >> 4WD
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>

 

So you think that there is a greater chance of a maladjusted T-case lever
than a dry or defective ball joint?.. on a vehicle with only 5000 miles?..
T-case problems would more likely show up whether turning or moving in a
straight line..

Not wishing to be rude, but your knowledge of Jeep transfer cases and their
shift patterns seems limited.. Mike Romain has already pointed out that
driving in 4 part time will break the entire system.. when attempting to
drive on a paved surface in 4 part time, there is a very different feel to
the vehicle, especially when negotiating a turn.. my Jeep if used on paved
surfaces in 4 part really doesn't want to turn at all.. it is not just a
case of a grinding noise, trust me..

As for 'wiggling' the lever?.. haha.. transfer case shifters do not wiggle..
certainly not on mine ('94 GC) or any others that I have come across..

Anyway, I don't want to steal anybody's thunder here, and will go back to
doing what I do best in the computer newsgroups, and call in occasionally to
see how it all pans out..

Good luck


"Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
news:10padm8l0ig49d7@corp.supernews.com...
> It's a brand new car with only 5000 miles. It hasn't got bad joints
> anywhere. Do not look to things that will cause problems all of the time,
> look to things that can be driver induced, like not shifting fully out of
> 4WD.
>
> Yes, the OP needs to determine all of those things, but the place to start
> is with things that she might have done on her own. Or, if she sent her
> husband and his brother to the store for milk, and they took the scenic
> route and pulle3d the lever for 4WD, then did not fully push the lever
> back,
> then preciesly the problems whe has described would occur. If it is easy
> to
> pull the lever, then push it back to a place other than the right place,
> then the linkage to the lever is maladjusted, and the test for this is to
> wiggle the lever and see if one can create the symptom.
>
> Bill seldom knows more than anybody here, but he can be counted on to have
> a
> link to pretty much anything. You are right, there is a chance that there
> is
> a dry ball joint from the factory, there is always that chance. There is
> an
> even greater chance that the OP or somebody she knows pulled the lever to
> see what it does, then failed to set the lever back to the right place.
> They
> might _think_ the lever is in the right place, but the maladjusted linkage
> means it really is not. No matter what the real problem is, the dealer is
> not seeing it, and the OP says it is intermittant. I only offer
> suggestions
> to invoke certain tests that might help to dial in the service effort, or
> exclude crap like a poorly adjusted linkage.
>
> Too bad you came into the discussion after all of the other suggestions
> just
> like the ones you made have already been made.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:ul7ld.34538$Z7.1226093@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> OK.. grinding and whining is caused by undue pressure on components.. so
> it
>> happens on turns which suggests steering and allied stuff.. forget the
>> T-case.. look to ball joints, constant velocity joints, universal joints,
>> brake rotors, bearings.. Bill, the resident Jeep expert, has already
>> suggested ball joints.. one of them could well be dry.. it happens.. just
>> because it is new doesn't mean that everything is a-ok.. there have been
> no
>> recalls on the problem so it is just a one off most likely.. the OP needs
> to
>> determine at what point the noise starts.. cold or after a longish run..
>> making a note of mileage would be cool.. that way, she could drive to the
>> dealer at the point where the noise starts..
>>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> news:10p9r40btggot0b@corp.supernews.com...
>> > She's already done that. I was trying to help her do a little
>> > diagnostic
>> > work on her own that might help her get the dealership to find the
>> > problem.
>> > I have found that the dealership is going to fix things they can
> actually
>> > see long before they will fix things they can not see. Part of what we
> are
>> > about here is helping people figure out how to open the dealership's
> eyes.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "Mike Hall" <mike.hall.mail@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> > news:0CQkd.46091$km5.1702487@news20.bellglobal.com ...
>> >> Best thing is for her to go back to the dealer..
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> >> news:10p7b0cm0fa1o82@corp.supernews.com...
>> >> >I suggested pulling the shifter through 2HI and on the way to 4LO,
> then
>> > go
>> >> > back to 2HI, but apparently this is not possible. The best you can
>> >> > do
>> >> > is
>> >> > pust the shifter into 2HI, then attempt to push beyond the stop just
> to
>> > be
>> >> > sure that 4HI is fully released.
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > "Angela" <anyoldmail@gmail.takethisout.com> wrote in message
>> >> > news:cmvfnb$qlr$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
>> >> >>
>> >> >> "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message
>> >> >> news:10p58rckr15kt28@corp.supernews.com...
>> >> >> > I am not that far off. I loose track of command track and select
>> > track,
>> >> >> but
>> >> >> > to the extent I hit the proper track, I described the problem
> pretty
>> >> > well.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > Having said that, isn't there a part time mode for the select
> track,
>> >> >> > and
>> >> >> if
>> >> >> > the linkage is maladjusted AND the most recent tcase selection
>> >> >> > was
>> > the
>> >> >> part
>> >> >> > time mode, then couldn't the tcase fail to shift properly into
> 2HI,
>> > and
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> > result of such a failure would be exactly what I described?
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > The Libby only has 5000 miles on it, and the OP says the trouble
>> >> >> > only
>> >> >> > happens intermittantly, and if there was an issue with the
> linkage,
>> >> >> > this
>> >> >> > could cause an intermittant failure of the tcase to fully
> disengage.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I will ask the dealer to look at that. You have to pass through
> part
>> >> >> time
>> >> >> 4WD to get from F/T 4WD to 2WD, though I think it has done it when
> in
>> > F/T
>> >> >> 4WD
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>