Mike Romain

I have one sacrificial bolt I use and just move that one around to beat
on. It also helps to cut the steering side to side to get room to swing
the BFH.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

nrs wrote:
> On Feb 13, 7:49 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
> wrote:
>> Hi Don,
>> Use the spindle bolts, just unscrewed a couple of threads to drive the
>> bearing assemble out, with penetrating oil. Similar to these Dana 30s:http://www.----------.com/Dana30Whee...h/axle/ujoint/
>> The axles slide out.
>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
>> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>>
>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnos...@excite.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>> after
>>> removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>>> out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>>> axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>>> mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>>> find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>>> right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>> be
>>> that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my
>>> mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>> well.
>>> All advice appreciated. Don
>> --
>> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> I would recommend getting some bolts from the hardware store if you
> are going to hammer on them. You may have to hit it hard enough to
> deform the bolt heads.
>
>

Mike Romain

I have one sacrificial bolt I use and just move that one around to beat
on. It also helps to cut the steering side to side to get room to swing
the BFH.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

nrs wrote:
> On Feb 13, 7:49 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
> wrote:
>> Hi Don,
>> Use the spindle bolts, just unscrewed a couple of threads to drive the
>> bearing assemble out, with penetrating oil. Similar to these Dana 30s:http://www.----------.com/Dana30Whee...h/axle/ujoint/
>> The axles slide out.
>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
>> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>>
>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnos...@excite.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>> after
>>> removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>>> out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>>> axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>>> mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>>> find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>>> right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>> be
>>> that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my
>>> mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>> well.
>>> All advice appreciated. Don
>> --
>> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> I would recommend getting some bolts from the hardware store if you
> are going to hammer on them. You may have to hit it hard enough to
> deform the bolt heads.
>
>

Mike Romain

I have one sacrificial bolt I use and just move that one around to beat
on. It also helps to cut the steering side to side to get room to swing
the BFH.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

nrs wrote:
> On Feb 13, 7:49 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
> wrote:
>> Hi Don,
>> Use the spindle bolts, just unscrewed a couple of threads to drive the
>> bearing assemble out, with penetrating oil. Similar to these Dana 30s:http://www.----------.com/Dana30Whee...h/axle/ujoint/
>> The axles slide out.
>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
>> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>>
>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnos...@excite.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>> after
>>> removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>>> out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>>> axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>>> mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>>> find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>>> right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>> be
>>> that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my
>>> mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>> well.
>>> All advice appreciated. Don
>> --
>> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> I would recommend getting some bolts from the hardware store if you
> are going to hammer on them. You may have to hit it hard enough to
> deform the bolt heads.
>
>

Matt Macchiarolo

Yep, the axle spins whether you are in 4x4 or 4x2.

"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4tlfblcmn8e7@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>
>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>
>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>> rust belt.
>>
>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>to come from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot
>>>believe my ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount
>>>of play and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get
>>>some correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>
>>
> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
> come apart I hope. Don
>

Matt Macchiarolo

Yep, the axle spins whether you are in 4x4 or 4x2.

"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4tlfblcmn8e7@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>
>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>
>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>> rust belt.
>>
>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>to come from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot
>>>believe my ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount
>>>of play and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get
>>>some correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>
>>
> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
> come apart I hope. Don
>

Matt Macchiarolo

Yep, the axle spins whether you are in 4x4 or 4x2.

"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4tlfblcmn8e7@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>
>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>
>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>> rust belt.
>>
>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>to come from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot
>>>believe my ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount
>>>of play and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get
>>>some correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>
>>
> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
> come apart I hope. Don
>

Matt Macchiarolo

Yep, the axle spins whether you are in 4x4 or 4x2.

"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4tlfblcmn8e7@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>
>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>
>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>> rust belt.
>>
>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>to come from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot
>>>believe my ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount
>>>of play and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get
>>>some correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>
>>
> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
> come apart I hope. Don
>

Matt Macchiarolo

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...


>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
Been there, done that! I resorted to buying three bolts of the same pitch
and diameter, but longer than the factory bolts, threaded them in and tapped
on the bolt heads with a hammer just enough to get a gap big enough to
insert a small prybar.

Matt Macchiarolo

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...


>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
Been there, done that! I resorted to buying three bolts of the same pitch
and diameter, but longer than the factory bolts, threaded them in and tapped
on the bolt heads with a hammer just enough to get a gap big enough to
insert a small prybar.

Matt Macchiarolo

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...


>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
Been there, done that! I resorted to buying three bolts of the same pitch
and diameter, but longer than the factory bolts, threaded them in and tapped
on the bolt heads with a hammer just enough to get a gap big enough to
insert a small prybar.