Front U-joints
02-14-2007, 07:29 PM
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
> Don Hamilton wrote:
>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>
>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>
>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>
>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>rust belt.
>>>
>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>
>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>to come
>>>
>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>
>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>
>>>
>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>> come apart I hope. Don
ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
> Don Hamilton wrote:
>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>
>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>
>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>
>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>rust belt.
>>>
>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>
>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>to come
>>>
>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>
>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>
>>>
>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>> come apart I hope. Don
02-14-2007, 07:29 PM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
> Don Hamilton wrote:
>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>
>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>
>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>
>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>rust belt.
>>>
>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>
>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>to come
>>>
>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>
>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>
>>>
>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>> come apart I hope. Don
ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
> Don Hamilton wrote:
>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>
>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>
>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>
>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>rust belt.
>>>
>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>
>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>to come
>>>
>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>
>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>
>>>
>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>> come apart I hope. Don
02-14-2007, 07:29 PM
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
> Don Hamilton wrote:
>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>
>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>
>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>
>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>rust belt.
>>>
>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>
>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>to come
>>>
>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>
>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>
>>>
>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>> come apart I hope. Don
ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
> Don Hamilton wrote:
>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>
>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>
>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>
>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>rust belt.
>>>
>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>
>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>to come
>>>
>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>
>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>
>>>
>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>> come apart I hope. Don
02-14-2007, 07:45 PM
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Hub Bearing Bolt (13mm): 75 lb-ft
Axle Nut: 175 lb-ft
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t7accrp7aqv73@corp.supernews.com...
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts
> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words
>> have been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>>rust belt.
>>>>
>>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is
>>>>>some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a
>>>>>clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have
>>>>>jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
>>>>>exhaust. It seems to come
>>>>
>>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play
>>>>>and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
Axle Nut: 175 lb-ft
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t7accrp7aqv73@corp.supernews.com...
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts
> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words
>> have been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>>rust belt.
>>>>
>>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is
>>>>>some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a
>>>>>clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have
>>>>>jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
>>>>>exhaust. It seems to come
>>>>
>>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play
>>>>>and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
02-14-2007, 07:45 PM
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Hub Bearing Bolt (13mm): 75 lb-ft
Axle Nut: 175 lb-ft
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t7accrp7aqv73@corp.supernews.com...
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts
> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words
>> have been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>>rust belt.
>>>>
>>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is
>>>>>some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a
>>>>>clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have
>>>>>jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
>>>>>exhaust. It seems to come
>>>>
>>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play
>>>>>and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
Axle Nut: 175 lb-ft
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t7accrp7aqv73@corp.supernews.com...
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts
> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words
>> have been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>>rust belt.
>>>>
>>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is
>>>>>some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a
>>>>>clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have
>>>>>jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
>>>>>exhaust. It seems to come
>>>>
>>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play
>>>>>and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
02-14-2007, 07:45 PM
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Hub Bearing Bolt (13mm): 75 lb-ft
Axle Nut: 175 lb-ft
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t7accrp7aqv73@corp.supernews.com...
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts
> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words
>> have been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>>rust belt.
>>>>
>>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is
>>>>>some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a
>>>>>clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have
>>>>>jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
>>>>>exhaust. It seems to come
>>>>
>>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play
>>>>>and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
Axle Nut: 175 lb-ft
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t7accrp7aqv73@corp.supernews.com...
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts
> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words
>> have been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>>rust belt.
>>>>
>>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is
>>>>>some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a
>>>>>clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have
>>>>>jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
>>>>>exhaust. It seems to come
>>>>
>>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play
>>>>>and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
02-14-2007, 07:45 PM
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Hub Bearing Bolt (13mm): 75 lb-ft
Axle Nut: 175 lb-ft
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t7accrp7aqv73@corp.supernews.com...
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts
> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words
>> have been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>>rust belt.
>>>>
>>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is
>>>>>some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a
>>>>>clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have
>>>>>jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
>>>>>exhaust. It seems to come
>>>>
>>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play
>>>>>and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
Axle Nut: 175 lb-ft
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t7accrp7aqv73@corp.supernews.com...
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts
> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words
>> have been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>>rust belt.
>>>>
>>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is
>>>>>some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a
>>>>>clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have
>>>>>jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
>>>>>exhaust. It seems to come
>>>>
>>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play
>>>>>and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
02-14-2007, 07:46 PM
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Are you also changing out the front hub? If not, there is no reason to
touch that 36 mm nut....
The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls
out as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Don Hamilton wrote:
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
> my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
>> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
>> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
>> been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>> rust belt.
>>>>
>>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>> to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>> type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>> type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>> car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>> to come
>>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>> I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>> correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
touch that 36 mm nut....
The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls
out as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Don Hamilton wrote:
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
> my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
>> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
>> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
>> been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>> rust belt.
>>>>
>>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>> to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>> type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>> type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>> car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>> to come
>>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>> I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>> correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
02-14-2007, 07:46 PM
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Are you also changing out the front hub? If not, there is no reason to
touch that 36 mm nut....
The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls
out as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Don Hamilton wrote:
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
> my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
>> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
>> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
>> been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>> rust belt.
>>>>
>>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>> to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>> type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>> type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>> car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>> to come
>>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>> I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>> correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
touch that 36 mm nut....
The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls
out as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Don Hamilton wrote:
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
> my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
>> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
>> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
>> been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>> rust belt.
>>>>
>>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>> to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>> type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>> type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>> car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>> to come
>>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>> I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>> correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
02-14-2007, 07:46 PM
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Are you also changing out the front hub? If not, there is no reason to
touch that 36 mm nut....
The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls
out as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Don Hamilton wrote:
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
> my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
>> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
>> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
>> been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>> rust belt.
>>>>
>>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>> to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>> type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>> type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>> car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>> to come
>>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>> I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>> correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
touch that 36 mm nut....
The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls
out as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Don Hamilton wrote:
> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
> my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
>> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
>> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>>
>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
>> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
>> been said concerning removal of same.
>>
>> Don Hamilton wrote:
>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>
>>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>>
>>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>>
>>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>> rust belt.
>>>>
>>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>> to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>> type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>> type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>> car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>> to come
>>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>>
>>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>> I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>> correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>>
>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>>> come apart I hope. Don
>
>
