Flush the Radiator Coolant?
02-03-2006, 05:57 AM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flush the Radiator Coolant?
Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
Coasty
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E2A208.F1696543@***.net...
> I go with every two years. Some new car warranties suggest five
> years, but they are finding out the new coolant formula that will not
> kill animals, destroys the engine in that time as it changes to acid.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Brian Foster wrote:
>>
>> I took my car into get a state inspection today and in the bay next to
>> mine
>> there was a van getting a coolant flush. The Van had about 88K miles on
>> it
>> and they said it had never been flushed before.
>>
>> I was amazed at how thick and black the old coolant was. I asked if there
>> was something wrong with the vehicle that would cause that, and they told
>> me
>> it was pretty normal wear and tear.
>>
>> The shop I was at suggested Coolant flush @ 50K and then every 30k after
>> that.
>>
>> Is that about right?
http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
Coasty
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E2A208.F1696543@***.net...
> I go with every two years. Some new car warranties suggest five
> years, but they are finding out the new coolant formula that will not
> kill animals, destroys the engine in that time as it changes to acid.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Brian Foster wrote:
>>
>> I took my car into get a state inspection today and in the bay next to
>> mine
>> there was a van getting a coolant flush. The Van had about 88K miles on
>> it
>> and they said it had never been flushed before.
>>
>> I was amazed at how thick and black the old coolant was. I asked if there
>> was something wrong with the vehicle that would cause that, and they told
>> me
>> it was pretty normal wear and tear.
>>
>> The shop I was at suggested Coolant flush @ 50K and then every 30k after
>> that.
>>
>> Is that about right?
02-03-2006, 06:20 AM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flush the Radiator Coolant?
Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
Coasty wrote:
>
> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> Coasty
since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
Coasty wrote:
>
> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> Coasty
02-03-2006, 06:20 AM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flush the Radiator Coolant?
Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
Coasty wrote:
>
> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> Coasty
since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
Coasty wrote:
>
> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> Coasty
02-03-2006, 06:20 AM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flush the Radiator Coolant?
Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
Coasty wrote:
>
> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> Coasty
since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
Coasty wrote:
>
> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> Coasty
02-03-2006, 07:51 AM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flush the Radiator Coolant?
There is another method where you check the voltage at the coolant. Usually
either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered borderline.
You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery negative
terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and metal
is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in another
place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like this.
Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is time
to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out "bad"
fluid, then it has already done some damage.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
> >
> > Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> > http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> > Coasty
either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered borderline.
You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery negative
terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and metal
is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in another
place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like this.
Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is time
to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out "bad"
fluid, then it has already done some damage.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
> >
> > Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> > http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> > Coasty
02-03-2006, 07:51 AM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flush the Radiator Coolant?
There is another method where you check the voltage at the coolant. Usually
either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered borderline.
You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery negative
terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and metal
is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in another
place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like this.
Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is time
to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out "bad"
fluid, then it has already done some damage.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
> >
> > Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> > http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> > Coasty
either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered borderline.
You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery negative
terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and metal
is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in another
place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like this.
Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is time
to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out "bad"
fluid, then it has already done some damage.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
> >
> > Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> > http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> > Coasty
02-03-2006, 07:51 AM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flush the Radiator Coolant?
There is another method where you check the voltage at the coolant. Usually
either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered borderline.
You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery negative
terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and metal
is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in another
place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like this.
Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is time
to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out "bad"
fluid, then it has already done some damage.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
> >
> > Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> > http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> > Coasty
either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered borderline.
You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery negative
terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and metal
is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in another
place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like this.
Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is time
to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out "bad"
fluid, then it has already done some damage.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
> >
> > Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
> > http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
> > Coasty
02-03-2006, 06:23 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flush the Radiator Coolant?
No swimming pool I live by the Chesapeake Bay we used PH strips when I was a
deck plate engineer in the Coast Guard. I have found that even the 5 yr so
called long life gets real acidic at two years but the freeze/boil over
remain good. I also have the HVAC mechanics that work for me use them to
check the closed loop glychol chiller systems.
Coasty
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
>>
>> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
>> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
>> Coasty
deck plate engineer in the Coast Guard. I have found that even the 5 yr so
called long life gets real acidic at two years but the freeze/boil over
remain good. I also have the HVAC mechanics that work for me use them to
check the closed loop glychol chiller systems.
Coasty
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
>>
>> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
>> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
>> Coasty
02-03-2006, 06:23 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flush the Radiator Coolant?
No swimming pool I live by the Chesapeake Bay we used PH strips when I was a
deck plate engineer in the Coast Guard. I have found that even the 5 yr so
called long life gets real acidic at two years but the freeze/boil over
remain good. I also have the HVAC mechanics that work for me use them to
check the closed loop glychol chiller systems.
Coasty
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
>>
>> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
>> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
>> Coasty
deck plate engineer in the Coast Guard. I have found that even the 5 yr so
called long life gets real acidic at two years but the freeze/boil over
remain good. I also have the HVAC mechanics that work for me use them to
check the closed loop glychol chiller systems.
Coasty
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
>>
>> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
>> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
>> Coasty
02-03-2006, 06:23 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flush the Radiator Coolant?
No swimming pool I live by the Chesapeake Bay we used PH strips when I was a
deck plate engineer in the Coast Guard. I have found that even the 5 yr so
called long life gets real acidic at two years but the freeze/boil over
remain good. I also have the HVAC mechanics that work for me use them to
check the closed loop glychol chiller systems.
Coasty
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
>>
>> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
>> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
>> Coasty
deck plate engineer in the Coast Guard. I have found that even the 5 yr so
called long life gets real acidic at two years but the freeze/boil over
remain good. I also have the HVAC mechanics that work for me use them to
check the closed loop glychol chiller systems.
Coasty
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>
> Coasty wrote:
>>
>> Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
>> http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
>> Coasty