DougW

Jeff Strickland did pass the time by typing:
> Gosh Jerry, you REALLY are older than dirt!
>
> That kind of flasher makes the turn signal come on and stay on steady - not
> flash- when a light at the other end of the car burns out. If the front
> light burns out, the rear light won't blink because there isn't enough
> current in the circuit to heat the bimetal parts inside the flasher.

(only slightly older than dirt here)

And as the bulbs corrode (draw more current) you
get the superblinkystrobe effect.

--
DougW

DougW

Jeff Strickland did pass the time by typing:
> Gosh Jerry, you REALLY are older than dirt!
>
> That kind of flasher makes the turn signal come on and stay on steady - not
> flash- when a light at the other end of the car burns out. If the front
> light burns out, the rear light won't blink because there isn't enough
> current in the circuit to heat the bimetal parts inside the flasher.

(only slightly older than dirt here)

And as the bulbs corrode (draw more current) you
get the superblinkystrobe effect.

--
DougW

DougW

Jeff Strickland did pass the time by typing:
> Gosh Jerry, you REALLY are older than dirt!
>
> That kind of flasher makes the turn signal come on and stay on steady - not
> flash- when a light at the other end of the car burns out. If the front
> light burns out, the rear light won't blink because there isn't enough
> current in the circuit to heat the bimetal parts inside the flasher.

(only slightly older than dirt here)

And as the bulbs corrode (draw more current) you
get the superblinkystrobe effect.

--
DougW

Lee Ayrton

When did they change over to solid state? Every flasher module I ever
took apart was a thermal flasher built around a bimetal strip with a set
of points at one end. If a lamp was out the circuit wouldn't pull enough
current to properly heat the strip and it wouldn't flash as quickly.


On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Jeff Strickland wrote:

> Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
> capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
> resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
> the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
> splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
> and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.
>
> I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
> couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
> resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
> hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
> provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
> You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.
>
> The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
> assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
> resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.
>
>
>
>
> "Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
>> I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
>> have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
>> pre 2001 TJ's.
>>
>> The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
>> flash to fast.
>>
>> All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
>> 2001 Flasher.
>>
>> They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
>>
>> Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> --
>> Tim
>>
>> [____]
>> (OIIIIIIO)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

Lee Ayrton

When did they change over to solid state? Every flasher module I ever
took apart was a thermal flasher built around a bimetal strip with a set
of points at one end. If a lamp was out the circuit wouldn't pull enough
current to properly heat the strip and it wouldn't flash as quickly.


On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Jeff Strickland wrote:

> Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
> capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
> resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
> the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
> splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
> and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.
>
> I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
> couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
> resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
> hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
> provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
> You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.
>
> The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
> assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
> resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.
>
>
>
>
> "Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
>> I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
>> have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
>> pre 2001 TJ's.
>>
>> The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
>> flash to fast.
>>
>> All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
>> 2001 Flasher.
>>
>> They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
>>
>> Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> --
>> Tim
>>
>> [____]
>> (OIIIIIIO)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

Lee Ayrton

When did they change over to solid state? Every flasher module I ever
took apart was a thermal flasher built around a bimetal strip with a set
of points at one end. If a lamp was out the circuit wouldn't pull enough
current to properly heat the strip and it wouldn't flash as quickly.


On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Jeff Strickland wrote:

> Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
> capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
> resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
> the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
> splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
> and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.
>
> I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
> couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
> resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
> hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
> provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
> You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.
>
> The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
> assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
> resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.
>
>
>
>
> "Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
>> I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
>> have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
>> pre 2001 TJ's.
>>
>> The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
>> flash to fast.
>>
>> All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
>> 2001 Flasher.
>>
>> They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
>>
>> Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> --
>> Tim
>>
>> [____]
>> (OIIIIIIO)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

Mike Romain

LOL!

You must be right up there with Jerry and almost older than dirt too....

They went electronic a while back and I thought the electronic ones
don't give a crap if they have 0, 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 or 5 or 6 bulbs, they
will still flash evenly.

I know the one in our Cherokee flashes just fine with a burnt out rear
signal and so does the one in my CJ7.

Grrr..... I hate that feature! I 'want' to know when I have a bad bulb
and the flasher either flashing fast or not at all used to tell me.

I can't see LED lights not flashing with one of those flashers?????

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's


Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> When did they change over to solid state? Every flasher module I ever
> took apart was a thermal flasher built around a bimetal strip with a set
> of points at one end. If a lamp was out the circuit wouldn't pull enough
> current to properly heat the strip and it wouldn't flash as quickly.
>
> On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> > Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
> > capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
> > resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
> > the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
> > splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
> > and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.
> >
> > I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
> > couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
> > resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
> > hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
> > provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
> > You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.
> >
> > The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
> > assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
> > resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
> >> I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
> >> have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
> >> pre 2001 TJ's.
> >>
> >> The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
> >> flash to fast.
> >>
> >> All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
> >> 2001 Flasher.
> >>
> >> They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
> >>
> >> Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Tim
> >>
> >> --
> >> Tim
> >>
> >> [____]
> >> (OIIIIIIO)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
> whips....r"
> R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

Mike Romain

LOL!

You must be right up there with Jerry and almost older than dirt too....

They went electronic a while back and I thought the electronic ones
don't give a crap if they have 0, 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 or 5 or 6 bulbs, they
will still flash evenly.

I know the one in our Cherokee flashes just fine with a burnt out rear
signal and so does the one in my CJ7.

Grrr..... I hate that feature! I 'want' to know when I have a bad bulb
and the flasher either flashing fast or not at all used to tell me.

I can't see LED lights not flashing with one of those flashers?????

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's


Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> When did they change over to solid state? Every flasher module I ever
> took apart was a thermal flasher built around a bimetal strip with a set
> of points at one end. If a lamp was out the circuit wouldn't pull enough
> current to properly heat the strip and it wouldn't flash as quickly.
>
> On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> > Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
> > capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
> > resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
> > the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
> > splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
> > and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.
> >
> > I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
> > couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
> > resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
> > hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
> > provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
> > You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.
> >
> > The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
> > assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
> > resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
> >> I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
> >> have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
> >> pre 2001 TJ's.
> >>
> >> The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
> >> flash to fast.
> >>
> >> All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
> >> 2001 Flasher.
> >>
> >> They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
> >>
> >> Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Tim
> >>
> >> --
> >> Tim
> >>
> >> [____]
> >> (OIIIIIIO)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
> whips....r"
> R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

Mike Romain

LOL!

You must be right up there with Jerry and almost older than dirt too....

They went electronic a while back and I thought the electronic ones
don't give a crap if they have 0, 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 or 5 or 6 bulbs, they
will still flash evenly.

I know the one in our Cherokee flashes just fine with a burnt out rear
signal and so does the one in my CJ7.

Grrr..... I hate that feature! I 'want' to know when I have a bad bulb
and the flasher either flashing fast or not at all used to tell me.

I can't see LED lights not flashing with one of those flashers?????

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's


Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> When did they change over to solid state? Every flasher module I ever
> took apart was a thermal flasher built around a bimetal strip with a set
> of points at one end. If a lamp was out the circuit wouldn't pull enough
> current to properly heat the strip and it wouldn't flash as quickly.
>
> On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> > Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
> > capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
> > resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
> > the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
> > splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
> > and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.
> >
> > I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
> > couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
> > resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
> > hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
> > provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
> > You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.
> >
> > The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
> > assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
> > resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
> >> I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
> >> have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
> >> pre 2001 TJ's.
> >>
> >> The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
> >> flash to fast.
> >>
> >> All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
> >> 2001 Flasher.
> >>
> >> They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
> >>
> >> Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Tim
> >>
> >> --
> >> Tim
> >>
> >> [____]
> >> (OIIIIIIO)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
> whips....r"
> R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

Derrick Hudson

On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 13:19:44 -0800, Jeff Strickland wrote:
> Gosh Jerry, you REALLY are older than dirt!

Dirt isn't very old, is it?

> That kind of flasher makes the turn signal come on and stay on steady - not
> flash- when a light at the other end of the car burns out. If the front
> light burns out, the rear light won't blink because there isn't enough
> current in the circuit to heat the bimetal parts inside the flasher.

Yep. Two winters ago I drove an '88 Pontiac 6000 Safari Wagon. It
had two bulbs in each taillight. One of the two bulbs died causing
the turn signal to remain steady. I had no idea, because the other
bulb deceived me into thinking the light was fine, until my dad
explained that to me. (it was his car; I didn't know it had two bulbs)

-D

--
Q: What is the difference between open-source and commercial software?
A: If you have a problem with commercial software you can call a phone
number and they will tell you it might be solved in a future version.
For open-source sofware there isn't a phone number to call, but you
get the solution within a day.

www: http://dman13.dyndns.org/~dman/ jabber: dman@dman13.dyndns.org