I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
pre 2001 TJ's.

The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
flash to fast.

All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
2001 Flasher.

They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ

Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?

Thanks,

Tim

--
Tim

[____]
(OIIIIIIO)

 

Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.

I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.

The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.




"Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
> I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
> have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
> pre 2001 TJ's.
>
> The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
> flash to fast.
>
> All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
> 2001 Flasher.
>
> They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
>
> Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim
>
> [____]
> (OIIIIIIO)
>
>
>
>

 

Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.

I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.

The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.




"Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
> I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
> have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
> pre 2001 TJ's.
>
> The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
> flash to fast.
>
> All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
> 2001 Flasher.
>
> They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
>
> Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim
>
> [____]
> (OIIIIIIO)
>
>
>
>

 

Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.

I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.

The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.




"Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
> I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
> have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
> pre 2001 TJ's.
>
> The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
> flash to fast.
>
> All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
> 2001 Flasher.
>
> They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
>
> Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim
>
> [____]
> (OIIIIIIO)
>
>
>
>

 

That RC network flasher was actually a second-generation flasher.
Flashers truly from the 'olden days' actually used a bi-metalic piece of
metal that flexed when it got hot from current passing through it. Then
as it flexed upward from getting hot and broke the electrical
connection, it would then cool back off again and re-make the electrical
connection, only to get hot again and once again break the circuit.
Cool design that even made its own clicking noise that have to be
electronically generated now. :) Oh, the bi-metalic thing worked by a
sandwich of two dissimilar metals. The metal on one side heated faster
than different kind of metal on the other side which caused it to bend.
Cool invention actually. :)

Jerry

Jeff Strickland wrote:
> Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
> capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
> resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
> the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
> splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
> and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.
>
> I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
> couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
> resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
> hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
> provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
> You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.
>
> The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
> assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
> resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.
>
>
>
>
> "Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
>
>>I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
>>have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
>>pre 2001 TJ's.
>>
>>The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
>>flash to fast.
>>
>>All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
>>2001 Flasher.
>>
>>They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
>>
>>Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>--
>> Tim
>>
>> [____]
>>(OIIIIIIO)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

 

That RC network flasher was actually a second-generation flasher.
Flashers truly from the 'olden days' actually used a bi-metalic piece of
metal that flexed when it got hot from current passing through it. Then
as it flexed upward from getting hot and broke the electrical
connection, it would then cool back off again and re-make the electrical
connection, only to get hot again and once again break the circuit.
Cool design that even made its own clicking noise that have to be
electronically generated now. :) Oh, the bi-metalic thing worked by a
sandwich of two dissimilar metals. The metal on one side heated faster
than different kind of metal on the other side which caused it to bend.
Cool invention actually. :)

Jerry

Jeff Strickland wrote:
> Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
> capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
> resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
> the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
> splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
> and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.
>
> I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
> couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
> resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
> hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
> provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
> You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.
>
> The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
> assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
> resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.
>
>
>
>
> "Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
>
>>I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
>>have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
>>pre 2001 TJ's.
>>
>>The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
>>flash to fast.
>>
>>All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
>>2001 Flasher.
>>
>>They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
>>
>>Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>--
>> Tim
>>
>> [____]
>>(OIIIIIIO)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

 

That RC network flasher was actually a second-generation flasher.
Flashers truly from the 'olden days' actually used a bi-metalic piece of
metal that flexed when it got hot from current passing through it. Then
as it flexed upward from getting hot and broke the electrical
connection, it would then cool back off again and re-make the electrical
connection, only to get hot again and once again break the circuit.
Cool design that even made its own clicking noise that have to be
electronically generated now. :) Oh, the bi-metalic thing worked by a
sandwich of two dissimilar metals. The metal on one side heated faster
than different kind of metal on the other side which caused it to bend.
Cool invention actually. :)

Jerry

Jeff Strickland wrote:
> Back in the olden days, the flasher was a simple RC network, resistor
> capacitor, that charged and discharged to control the blink rate. The
> resistor was the filiment in the lamps. You are taking the resistor out of
> the circuit, assuming the circuit is still an RC network. You can simply
> splice a resistor in line that mimics the resistance of the lamp filiment,
> and the flasher will never know that it is powering an LED array.
>
> I would use a 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistor, or there abouts. Practice with a
> couple, or just measure the resistance of a brake lamp bulb, then get a
> resistor that is within about 10% of that value, and can handle relatively
> hight current. You don't really need the current capability, but this will
> provide overheat protection if the brake lights are on for a very long time.
> You'll need a resistor on both the left and the right side.
>
> The Turn Signals and the Brake Lamps are the same part of the lamp/LED
> assembly, and the Running Lamps are a different part. Be sure to add the
> resistor to the turn signal/brake lamp side of the assembly.
>
>
>
>
> "Intergate" <roadrnnr99@REMOVE.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:110sd9bhi6qu0c7@corp.supernews.com...
>
>>I am going to convert my taillights to the LED round Flush mount. I
>>have read many articles on what needs to be done but all were done on
>>pre 2001 TJ's.
>>
>>The problem will be the flasher will need to be changed cause it will
>>flash to fast.
>>
>>All the mods I have seen to solve the problem were done on the pre
>>2001 Flasher.
>>
>>They changed in 2001. I have a 2004 TJ
>>
>>Any body done this on a 2001 or newer and solved the problem?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>--
>> Tim
>>
>> [____]
>>(OIIIIIIO)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

 

Gosh Jerry, you REALLY are older than dirt!

That kind of flasher makes the turn signal come on and stay on steady - not
flash- when a light at the other end of the car burns out. If the front
light burns out, the rear light won't blink because there isn't enough
current in the circuit to heat the bimetal parts inside the flasher.



"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:Jy7Qd.11072$Tt.1624@fed1read05...
> That RC network flasher was actually a second-generation flasher.
> Flashers truly from the 'olden days' actually used a bi-metalic piece of
> metal that flexed when it got hot from current passing through it. Then
> as it flexed upward from getting hot and broke the electrical
> connection, it would then cool back off again and re-make the electrical
> connection, only to get hot again and once again break the circuit.
> Cool design that even made its own clicking noise that have to be
> electronically generated now. :) Oh, the bi-metalic thing worked by a
> sandwich of two dissimilar metals. The metal on one side heated faster
> than different kind of metal on the other side which caused it to bend.
> Cool invention actually. :)
>
> Jerry
>

 

Gosh Jerry, you REALLY are older than dirt!

That kind of flasher makes the turn signal come on and stay on steady - not
flash- when a light at the other end of the car burns out. If the front
light burns out, the rear light won't blink because there isn't enough
current in the circuit to heat the bimetal parts inside the flasher.



"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:Jy7Qd.11072$Tt.1624@fed1read05...
> That RC network flasher was actually a second-generation flasher.
> Flashers truly from the 'olden days' actually used a bi-metalic piece of
> metal that flexed when it got hot from current passing through it. Then
> as it flexed upward from getting hot and broke the electrical
> connection, it would then cool back off again and re-make the electrical
> connection, only to get hot again and once again break the circuit.
> Cool design that even made its own clicking noise that have to be
> electronically generated now. :) Oh, the bi-metalic thing worked by a
> sandwich of two dissimilar metals. The metal on one side heated faster
> than different kind of metal on the other side which caused it to bend.
> Cool invention actually. :)
>
> Jerry
>

 

Gosh Jerry, you REALLY are older than dirt!

That kind of flasher makes the turn signal come on and stay on steady - not
flash- when a light at the other end of the car burns out. If the front
light burns out, the rear light won't blink because there isn't enough
current in the circuit to heat the bimetal parts inside the flasher.



"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:Jy7Qd.11072$Tt.1624@fed1read05...
> That RC network flasher was actually a second-generation flasher.
> Flashers truly from the 'olden days' actually used a bi-metalic piece of
> metal that flexed when it got hot from current passing through it. Then
> as it flexed upward from getting hot and broke the electrical
> connection, it would then cool back off again and re-make the electrical
> connection, only to get hot again and once again break the circuit.
> Cool design that even made its own clicking noise that have to be
> electronically generated now. :) Oh, the bi-metalic thing worked by a
> sandwich of two dissimilar metals. The metal on one side heated faster
> than different kind of metal on the other side which caused it to bend.
> Cool invention actually. :)
>
> Jerry
>