Fire Damage Wiring Repair
12-07-2005, 11:54 AM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mentally, though, I'm having a hard time getting around the idea that
> the only wires that could have been switched, i.e., the "dual wire"
> connectors, are for the park lights and the headlighrs, which all work,
> and the only single wire, other than the dome light wire, which is
> black,
Woah now.
The only black wires om my headlight switch are from the front corner of
the plug and are the switch 'grounds'. They are not power lines.
The red wire with the white stripe on my switch is for the headlights.
It goes to the dimmer switch.
Mike
is the single dash light wire, a stripped red wire. If that
> striped red wire were swapped with the striped red wire in the
> headlight connector, I would surmise that neither the headlights nor
> the dash lights would work at all. Of course, I could be wrong.
>
> Randall
>
> Mentally, though, I'm having a hard time getting around the idea that
> the only wires that could have been switched, i.e., the "dual wire"
> connectors, are for the park lights and the headlighrs, which all work,
> and the only single wire, other than the dome light wire, which is
> black,
Woah now.
The only black wires om my headlight switch are from the front corner of
the plug and are the switch 'grounds'. They are not power lines.
The red wire with the white stripe on my switch is for the headlights.
It goes to the dimmer switch.
Mike
is the single dash light wire, a stripped red wire. If that
> striped red wire were swapped with the striped red wire in the
> headlight connector, I would surmise that neither the headlights nor
> the dash lights would work at all. Of course, I could be wrong.
>
> Randall
12-07-2005, 11:54 AM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mentally, though, I'm having a hard time getting around the idea that
> the only wires that could have been switched, i.e., the "dual wire"
> connectors, are for the park lights and the headlighrs, which all work,
> and the only single wire, other than the dome light wire, which is
> black,
Woah now.
The only black wires om my headlight switch are from the front corner of
the plug and are the switch 'grounds'. They are not power lines.
The red wire with the white stripe on my switch is for the headlights.
It goes to the dimmer switch.
Mike
is the single dash light wire, a stripped red wire. If that
> striped red wire were swapped with the striped red wire in the
> headlight connector, I would surmise that neither the headlights nor
> the dash lights would work at all. Of course, I could be wrong.
>
> Randall
>
> Mentally, though, I'm having a hard time getting around the idea that
> the only wires that could have been switched, i.e., the "dual wire"
> connectors, are for the park lights and the headlighrs, which all work,
> and the only single wire, other than the dome light wire, which is
> black,
Woah now.
The only black wires om my headlight switch are from the front corner of
the plug and are the switch 'grounds'. They are not power lines.
The red wire with the white stripe on my switch is for the headlights.
It goes to the dimmer switch.
Mike
is the single dash light wire, a stripped red wire. If that
> striped red wire were swapped with the striped red wire in the
> headlight connector, I would surmise that neither the headlights nor
> the dash lights would work at all. Of course, I could be wrong.
>
> Randall
12-07-2005, 11:54 AM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mentally, though, I'm having a hard time getting around the idea that
> the only wires that could have been switched, i.e., the "dual wire"
> connectors, are for the park lights and the headlighrs, which all work,
> and the only single wire, other than the dome light wire, which is
> black,
Woah now.
The only black wires om my headlight switch are from the front corner of
the plug and are the switch 'grounds'. They are not power lines.
The red wire with the white stripe on my switch is for the headlights.
It goes to the dimmer switch.
Mike
is the single dash light wire, a stripped red wire. If that
> striped red wire were swapped with the striped red wire in the
> headlight connector, I would surmise that neither the headlights nor
> the dash lights would work at all. Of course, I could be wrong.
>
> Randall
>
> Mentally, though, I'm having a hard time getting around the idea that
> the only wires that could have been switched, i.e., the "dual wire"
> connectors, are for the park lights and the headlighrs, which all work,
> and the only single wire, other than the dome light wire, which is
> black,
Woah now.
The only black wires om my headlight switch are from the front corner of
the plug and are the switch 'grounds'. They are not power lines.
The red wire with the white stripe on my switch is for the headlights.
It goes to the dimmer switch.
Mike
is the single dash light wire, a stripped red wire. If that
> striped red wire were swapped with the striped red wire in the
> headlight connector, I would surmise that neither the headlights nor
> the dash lights would work at all. Of course, I could be wrong.
>
> Randall
12-07-2005, 12:52 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
I'm getting lost in your symptoms here.
You had an electrical fire of unknown cause at your GM-style light
switch and replaced the switch and pigtailed harness. You are certain
that you wired the switch the same way that it was.
Now your highbeams or low beams blows a fuse. Which fuse? What legend
appears next to it at the fuseblock? What (else) goes out when that
fuse pops? (Fuses pop for one of three reasons: Accessory overload,
short to ground before the load or local overheating.)
Your dash lights come on with the keyswitch in the ON position with the
light switch OFF? This would be general instrument illumination lights?
The ones that can be dimmed down with the reostat? Can they be dimmed
at all? Do they work with the key off?
The reostat on the light switch now becomes smoking hot. In all
positions or only with the dome light is switched on? Does it matter if
the door is open?
A left-field question: Has the radio recently been replaced? Lighting
and keyswitch-controlled accessories are generally well seperated
electrically, but the radio is often one place with both feeds plus a B+
feed.
randallbrink@adelphia.net wrote:
> I have a growing suspicion that you're right about the short, except
> that the high beam headlights are the only accessory that blows the
> fuse and the rest of the many components on that switch all work.
>
> Also, and this may or may not be relevant, but it was the rear part of
> the switch that fried, where the park, dash and dome light wires come
> into the switch block.
>
> If in light of this, you still believe that there is a short in the
> main (12 ga.) power supply wire, then I will start investigating the
> wire loom--a major undertaking, indeed!
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Randall Brink
>
You had an electrical fire of unknown cause at your GM-style light
switch and replaced the switch and pigtailed harness. You are certain
that you wired the switch the same way that it was.
Now your highbeams or low beams blows a fuse. Which fuse? What legend
appears next to it at the fuseblock? What (else) goes out when that
fuse pops? (Fuses pop for one of three reasons: Accessory overload,
short to ground before the load or local overheating.)
Your dash lights come on with the keyswitch in the ON position with the
light switch OFF? This would be general instrument illumination lights?
The ones that can be dimmed down with the reostat? Can they be dimmed
at all? Do they work with the key off?
The reostat on the light switch now becomes smoking hot. In all
positions or only with the dome light is switched on? Does it matter if
the door is open?
A left-field question: Has the radio recently been replaced? Lighting
and keyswitch-controlled accessories are generally well seperated
electrically, but the radio is often one place with both feeds plus a B+
feed.
randallbrink@adelphia.net wrote:
> I have a growing suspicion that you're right about the short, except
> that the high beam headlights are the only accessory that blows the
> fuse and the rest of the many components on that switch all work.
>
> Also, and this may or may not be relevant, but it was the rear part of
> the switch that fried, where the park, dash and dome light wires come
> into the switch block.
>
> If in light of this, you still believe that there is a short in the
> main (12 ga.) power supply wire, then I will start investigating the
> wire loom--a major undertaking, indeed!
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Randall Brink
>
12-07-2005, 12:52 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
I'm getting lost in your symptoms here.
You had an electrical fire of unknown cause at your GM-style light
switch and replaced the switch and pigtailed harness. You are certain
that you wired the switch the same way that it was.
Now your highbeams or low beams blows a fuse. Which fuse? What legend
appears next to it at the fuseblock? What (else) goes out when that
fuse pops? (Fuses pop for one of three reasons: Accessory overload,
short to ground before the load or local overheating.)
Your dash lights come on with the keyswitch in the ON position with the
light switch OFF? This would be general instrument illumination lights?
The ones that can be dimmed down with the reostat? Can they be dimmed
at all? Do they work with the key off?
The reostat on the light switch now becomes smoking hot. In all
positions or only with the dome light is switched on? Does it matter if
the door is open?
A left-field question: Has the radio recently been replaced? Lighting
and keyswitch-controlled accessories are generally well seperated
electrically, but the radio is often one place with both feeds plus a B+
feed.
randallbrink@adelphia.net wrote:
> I have a growing suspicion that you're right about the short, except
> that the high beam headlights are the only accessory that blows the
> fuse and the rest of the many components on that switch all work.
>
> Also, and this may or may not be relevant, but it was the rear part of
> the switch that fried, where the park, dash and dome light wires come
> into the switch block.
>
> If in light of this, you still believe that there is a short in the
> main (12 ga.) power supply wire, then I will start investigating the
> wire loom--a major undertaking, indeed!
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Randall Brink
>
You had an electrical fire of unknown cause at your GM-style light
switch and replaced the switch and pigtailed harness. You are certain
that you wired the switch the same way that it was.
Now your highbeams or low beams blows a fuse. Which fuse? What legend
appears next to it at the fuseblock? What (else) goes out when that
fuse pops? (Fuses pop for one of three reasons: Accessory overload,
short to ground before the load or local overheating.)
Your dash lights come on with the keyswitch in the ON position with the
light switch OFF? This would be general instrument illumination lights?
The ones that can be dimmed down with the reostat? Can they be dimmed
at all? Do they work with the key off?
The reostat on the light switch now becomes smoking hot. In all
positions or only with the dome light is switched on? Does it matter if
the door is open?
A left-field question: Has the radio recently been replaced? Lighting
and keyswitch-controlled accessories are generally well seperated
electrically, but the radio is often one place with both feeds plus a B+
feed.
randallbrink@adelphia.net wrote:
> I have a growing suspicion that you're right about the short, except
> that the high beam headlights are the only accessory that blows the
> fuse and the rest of the many components on that switch all work.
>
> Also, and this may or may not be relevant, but it was the rear part of
> the switch that fried, where the park, dash and dome light wires come
> into the switch block.
>
> If in light of this, you still believe that there is a short in the
> main (12 ga.) power supply wire, then I will start investigating the
> wire loom--a major undertaking, indeed!
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Randall Brink
>
12-07-2005, 12:52 PM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
I'm getting lost in your symptoms here.
You had an electrical fire of unknown cause at your GM-style light
switch and replaced the switch and pigtailed harness. You are certain
that you wired the switch the same way that it was.
Now your highbeams or low beams blows a fuse. Which fuse? What legend
appears next to it at the fuseblock? What (else) goes out when that
fuse pops? (Fuses pop for one of three reasons: Accessory overload,
short to ground before the load or local overheating.)
Your dash lights come on with the keyswitch in the ON position with the
light switch OFF? This would be general instrument illumination lights?
The ones that can be dimmed down with the reostat? Can they be dimmed
at all? Do they work with the key off?
The reostat on the light switch now becomes smoking hot. In all
positions or only with the dome light is switched on? Does it matter if
the door is open?
A left-field question: Has the radio recently been replaced? Lighting
and keyswitch-controlled accessories are generally well seperated
electrically, but the radio is often one place with both feeds plus a B+
feed.
randallbrink@adelphia.net wrote:
> I have a growing suspicion that you're right about the short, except
> that the high beam headlights are the only accessory that blows the
> fuse and the rest of the many components on that switch all work.
>
> Also, and this may or may not be relevant, but it was the rear part of
> the switch that fried, where the park, dash and dome light wires come
> into the switch block.
>
> If in light of this, you still believe that there is a short in the
> main (12 ga.) power supply wire, then I will start investigating the
> wire loom--a major undertaking, indeed!
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Randall Brink
>
You had an electrical fire of unknown cause at your GM-style light
switch and replaced the switch and pigtailed harness. You are certain
that you wired the switch the same way that it was.
Now your highbeams or low beams blows a fuse. Which fuse? What legend
appears next to it at the fuseblock? What (else) goes out when that
fuse pops? (Fuses pop for one of three reasons: Accessory overload,
short to ground before the load or local overheating.)
Your dash lights come on with the keyswitch in the ON position with the
light switch OFF? This would be general instrument illumination lights?
The ones that can be dimmed down with the reostat? Can they be dimmed
at all? Do they work with the key off?
The reostat on the light switch now becomes smoking hot. In all
positions or only with the dome light is switched on? Does it matter if
the door is open?
A left-field question: Has the radio recently been replaced? Lighting
and keyswitch-controlled accessories are generally well seperated
electrically, but the radio is often one place with both feeds plus a B+
feed.
randallbrink@adelphia.net wrote:
> I have a growing suspicion that you're right about the short, except
> that the high beam headlights are the only accessory that blows the
> fuse and the rest of the many components on that switch all work.
>
> Also, and this may or may not be relevant, but it was the rear part of
> the switch that fried, where the park, dash and dome light wires come
> into the switch block.
>
> If in light of this, you still believe that there is a short in the
> main (12 ga.) power supply wire, then I will start investigating the
> wire loom--a major undertaking, indeed!
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Randall Brink
>
12-08-2005, 12:19 PM
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
Please tell us 'what' fuse blows. Even it's location in the panel, then
I can look in my book and maybe see what circuit is bad.
The headlights are 'not' fused so something else is shorted with the
highbeam wiring.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Yes, it is the high beams that blows the fuse. I am going to replace
> the dimmer switch today and see if that cures that problem.
I can look in my book and maybe see what circuit is bad.
The headlights are 'not' fused so something else is shorted with the
highbeam wiring.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Yes, it is the high beams that blows the fuse. I am going to replace
> the dimmer switch today and see if that cures that problem.