Fire Damage Wiring Repair
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
You have a Wagoneer right? The big one I am now thinking?
Anyhow, follow the positive wire and at the first bolt connector you
come to there should be some loop connectors for other wiring connected
to this same bolt. It could be on the solenoid if you have one or a
junction box or relay.
These loop connectors have soft rubber coated wires about 8" long on
them and then a large rubber tube type crimp connector where they
connect to the wiring harness component's larger plastic coated wire.
You also can follow the red wire off the alternator and find them where
it's fuse link joins the battery cable. They all join at the same place
I believe.
Most of them are 14 ga. protecting 10 ga. circuits. You can buy bulk
wire and they need to be crimp connected only. Solder will damage them.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Do you mean where the positive battery wire attaches to the junction
> box? I have been wanting to find these fusible links as the next step
> in my diagnostic process, so any information will be very helpful. My
> manuals are no help on this.
>
> Randall
Anyhow, follow the positive wire and at the first bolt connector you
come to there should be some loop connectors for other wiring connected
to this same bolt. It could be on the solenoid if you have one or a
junction box or relay.
These loop connectors have soft rubber coated wires about 8" long on
them and then a large rubber tube type crimp connector where they
connect to the wiring harness component's larger plastic coated wire.
You also can follow the red wire off the alternator and find them where
it's fuse link joins the battery cable. They all join at the same place
I believe.
Most of them are 14 ga. protecting 10 ga. circuits. You can buy bulk
wire and they need to be crimp connected only. Solder will damage them.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Do you mean where the positive battery wire attaches to the junction
> box? I have been wanting to find these fusible links as the next step
> in my diagnostic process, so any information will be very helpful. My
> manuals are no help on this.
>
> Randall
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
You have a Wagoneer right? The big one I am now thinking?
Anyhow, follow the positive wire and at the first bolt connector you
come to there should be some loop connectors for other wiring connected
to this same bolt. It could be on the solenoid if you have one or a
junction box or relay.
These loop connectors have soft rubber coated wires about 8" long on
them and then a large rubber tube type crimp connector where they
connect to the wiring harness component's larger plastic coated wire.
You also can follow the red wire off the alternator and find them where
it's fuse link joins the battery cable. They all join at the same place
I believe.
Most of them are 14 ga. protecting 10 ga. circuits. You can buy bulk
wire and they need to be crimp connected only. Solder will damage them.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Do you mean where the positive battery wire attaches to the junction
> box? I have been wanting to find these fusible links as the next step
> in my diagnostic process, so any information will be very helpful. My
> manuals are no help on this.
>
> Randall
Anyhow, follow the positive wire and at the first bolt connector you
come to there should be some loop connectors for other wiring connected
to this same bolt. It could be on the solenoid if you have one or a
junction box or relay.
These loop connectors have soft rubber coated wires about 8" long on
them and then a large rubber tube type crimp connector where they
connect to the wiring harness component's larger plastic coated wire.
You also can follow the red wire off the alternator and find them where
it's fuse link joins the battery cable. They all join at the same place
I believe.
Most of them are 14 ga. protecting 10 ga. circuits. You can buy bulk
wire and they need to be crimp connected only. Solder will damage them.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Do you mean where the positive battery wire attaches to the junction
> box? I have been wanting to find these fusible links as the next step
> in my diagnostic process, so any information will be very helpful. My
> manuals are no help on this.
>
> Randall
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
You have a Wagoneer right? The big one I am now thinking?
Anyhow, follow the positive wire and at the first bolt connector you
come to there should be some loop connectors for other wiring connected
to this same bolt. It could be on the solenoid if you have one or a
junction box or relay.
These loop connectors have soft rubber coated wires about 8" long on
them and then a large rubber tube type crimp connector where they
connect to the wiring harness component's larger plastic coated wire.
You also can follow the red wire off the alternator and find them where
it's fuse link joins the battery cable. They all join at the same place
I believe.
Most of them are 14 ga. protecting 10 ga. circuits. You can buy bulk
wire and they need to be crimp connected only. Solder will damage them.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Do you mean where the positive battery wire attaches to the junction
> box? I have been wanting to find these fusible links as the next step
> in my diagnostic process, so any information will be very helpful. My
> manuals are no help on this.
>
> Randall
Anyhow, follow the positive wire and at the first bolt connector you
come to there should be some loop connectors for other wiring connected
to this same bolt. It could be on the solenoid if you have one or a
junction box or relay.
These loop connectors have soft rubber coated wires about 8" long on
them and then a large rubber tube type crimp connector where they
connect to the wiring harness component's larger plastic coated wire.
You also can follow the red wire off the alternator and find them where
it's fuse link joins the battery cable. They all join at the same place
I believe.
Most of them are 14 ga. protecting 10 ga. circuits. You can buy bulk
wire and they need to be crimp connected only. Solder will damage them.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Do you mean where the positive battery wire attaches to the junction
> box? I have been wanting to find these fusible links as the next step
> in my diagnostic process, so any information will be very helpful. My
> manuals are no help on this.
>
> Randall
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
Mike:
Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
"on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
Randall Brink
Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
"on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
Randall Brink
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
Mike:
Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
"on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
Randall Brink
Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
"on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
Randall Brink
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
Mike:
Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
"on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
Randall Brink
Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
"on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
Randall Brink
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
Are you 100% sure that the fuse being blown is the right rating?
Does turning the light switch handle make the instrument panel go bright and
dim? It should.
If you have power, then it is unlikely that there is a problem in the
fusible link or links. It certainly wouldn't hurt to locate them, perform a
visual inspection and verify continuity.
When you get done with this job, you will have accumulated enough expertise
to hang up a shingle and go into business. :^)
Earle
<randallbrink@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1133916521.680865.159500@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink
>
Does turning the light switch handle make the instrument panel go bright and
dim? It should.
If you have power, then it is unlikely that there is a problem in the
fusible link or links. It certainly wouldn't hurt to locate them, perform a
visual inspection and verify continuity.
When you get done with this job, you will have accumulated enough expertise
to hang up a shingle and go into business. :^)
Earle
<randallbrink@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1133916521.680865.159500@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink
>
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
Are you 100% sure that the fuse being blown is the right rating?
Does turning the light switch handle make the instrument panel go bright and
dim? It should.
If you have power, then it is unlikely that there is a problem in the
fusible link or links. It certainly wouldn't hurt to locate them, perform a
visual inspection and verify continuity.
When you get done with this job, you will have accumulated enough expertise
to hang up a shingle and go into business. :^)
Earle
<randallbrink@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1133916521.680865.159500@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink
>
Does turning the light switch handle make the instrument panel go bright and
dim? It should.
If you have power, then it is unlikely that there is a problem in the
fusible link or links. It certainly wouldn't hurt to locate them, perform a
visual inspection and verify continuity.
When you get done with this job, you will have accumulated enough expertise
to hang up a shingle and go into business. :^)
Earle
<randallbrink@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1133916521.680865.159500@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink
>
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
Are you 100% sure that the fuse being blown is the right rating?
Does turning the light switch handle make the instrument panel go bright and
dim? It should.
If you have power, then it is unlikely that there is a problem in the
fusible link or links. It certainly wouldn't hurt to locate them, perform a
visual inspection and verify continuity.
When you get done with this job, you will have accumulated enough expertise
to hang up a shingle and go into business. :^)
Earle
<randallbrink@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1133916521.680865.159500@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink
>
Does turning the light switch handle make the instrument panel go bright and
dim? It should.
If you have power, then it is unlikely that there is a problem in the
fusible link or links. It certainly wouldn't hurt to locate them, perform a
visual inspection and verify continuity.
When you get done with this job, you will have accumulated enough expertise
to hang up a shingle and go into business. :^)
Earle
<randallbrink@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1133916521.680865.159500@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink
>
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fire Damage Wiring Repair
They won't be the location of the short. When these fuse links mess up,
they just blow.
You really sound like you have a short inside the wiring harness. That
big headlight wire that melted down the light switch has very likely
melted into something else.
Well, not 'likely' pretty much for sure by the sound of your symptoms.
Just so you know, the wiring harness comes apart into modules that all
meet at the fuse panel. If you go on the engine side of the fuse panel,
you will find one bolt in the center of it. This bolt will force the
panel to come apart into it's components so you can maybe get a better
bead on it.
I foresee a lot of cutting of harness covering. You can get the split
corrugated tube loom to put the wires back into once you have opened up
the harness. You can even tuck it into the loom as you cut it open and
inspect it so you don't have a total rats nest.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink
they just blow.
You really sound like you have a short inside the wiring harness. That
big headlight wire that melted down the light switch has very likely
melted into something else.
Well, not 'likely' pretty much for sure by the sound of your symptoms.
Just so you know, the wiring harness comes apart into modules that all
meet at the fuse panel. If you go on the engine side of the fuse panel,
you will find one bolt in the center of it. This bolt will force the
panel to come apart into it's components so you can maybe get a better
bead on it.
I foresee a lot of cutting of harness covering. You can get the split
corrugated tube loom to put the wires back into once you have opened up
the harness. You can even tuck it into the loom as you cut it open and
inspect it so you don't have a total rats nest.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"randallbrink@adelphia.net" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink