Bill,

The check valve will not hinder performance. It is basically a little ball
bearing that you put into the vacuum signal channel for the power valve. You
first counterbore the hole with a drill bit that they supply in the kit.
Then you set the baseplate on a flat surface and tap the bottom of the
counterbore with a Phillips screwdriver and a hammer. The "X" pattern in the
bottom of the counterbore will allow the vacuum signal to pass around the
ball when the manifold vacuum is trying to pull the ball down. In the event
of a backfire, the ball will push up against the gasket and small hole in
the main body of the carb and seal the power valve from the backfire
pressure. Also another note, the new generation of power valves are made
with a different diaphragm material which is more resistant to backfires.
The check valve kit works, and in fact, all new Holley carbs have this
implemented into them, and have for 3 or 4 years.

A note on the gaskets, if you use non-Holley gaskets, you're asking for
trouble. If you buy a kit and they gaskets are made of cork type paper, they
won't work long. The Holley kits now have a reusable blue gasket for the
metering block and float bowls. They don't stick to the carb like the old
brown and black gaskets do. They are also much more resistant to any
shrinking or swelling.

Chris

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F9C2BE7.9ED1C474@***.net...
> Brake flex line will dissolve in gasoline, use regular 3/8"
> gasoline hose.
> That is what makes the Holley have a bad reputation for not be able
> to be tilted like climbing a steep hill. Their power jets are what make
> them the only carburetor used on the drag strip, but it is also it's
> weak point, it's diaphragm can't take even one intake backfire cause
> many times by just a weak spark plug or floating intake valve. Although
> Chris, here wrote there is a check valve that will cure that, but I
> betting at the expense of it's performance. Another big problem with
> Holley is their gaskets will shrink if left dry, that may happen in the
> car, if the fuel pump check valve leaks and sucks the fuel back out of
> carburetor. Plus those huge vent pipes that make run comparable to
> injection will allow the gas to evaporate, drying the gaskets, then
> usually it leaks, causing the owner to tighten the float bowl screws
> squeezing what's left of the gaskets into the main jet channels, further
> pissing off their owner. So, once it sits dry for an hour you must
> install a new kit.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Thom wrote:
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > Are the float vent tubes the only problem with the Holley off-road?
> >
> > I've been playing with some brake-line to connect the vents, but the
hose is
> > a better idea. I'm trying to make a Holley 4160 600CFM on top of a chevy
350
> > (stock) work in a CJ7. Last trip (the first real off-road trip) I had to
> > gently lowered of a slope when the engine died om me.
> > I have a Quadrajet laying around as well, but that one has to be
rebuild,
> > all the little thingy-parts are toast.

 

Hi Chris,
Whatever this pretty blue stuff is, it works OK:
http://www.----------.com/holley.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

c wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> The check valve will not hinder performance. It is basically a little ball
> bearing that you put into the vacuum signal channel for the power valve. You
> first counterbore the hole with a drill bit that they supply in the kit.
> Then you set the baseplate on a flat surface and tap the bottom of the
> counterbore with a Phillips screwdriver and a hammer. The "X" pattern in the
> bottom of the counterbore will allow the vacuum signal to pass around the
> ball when the manifold vacuum is trying to pull the ball down. In the event
> of a backfire, the ball will push up against the gasket and small hole in
> the main body of the carb and seal the power valve from the backfire
> pressure. Also another note, the new generation of power valves are made
> with a different diaphragm material which is more resistant to backfires.
> The check valve kit works, and in fact, all new Holley carbs have this
> implemented into them, and have for 3 or 4 years.
>
> A note on the gaskets, if you use non-Holley gaskets, you're asking for
> trouble. If you buy a kit and they gaskets are made of cork type paper, they
> won't work long. The Holley kits now have a reusable blue gasket for the
> metering block and float bowls. They don't stick to the carb like the old
> brown and black gaskets do. They are also much more resistant to any
> shrinking or swelling.
>
> Chris

 

Hi Chris,
Whatever this pretty blue stuff is, it works OK:
http://www.----------.com/holley.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

c wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> The check valve will not hinder performance. It is basically a little ball
> bearing that you put into the vacuum signal channel for the power valve. You
> first counterbore the hole with a drill bit that they supply in the kit.
> Then you set the baseplate on a flat surface and tap the bottom of the
> counterbore with a Phillips screwdriver and a hammer. The "X" pattern in the
> bottom of the counterbore will allow the vacuum signal to pass around the
> ball when the manifold vacuum is trying to pull the ball down. In the event
> of a backfire, the ball will push up against the gasket and small hole in
> the main body of the carb and seal the power valve from the backfire
> pressure. Also another note, the new generation of power valves are made
> with a different diaphragm material which is more resistant to backfires.
> The check valve kit works, and in fact, all new Holley carbs have this
> implemented into them, and have for 3 or 4 years.
>
> A note on the gaskets, if you use non-Holley gaskets, you're asking for
> trouble. If you buy a kit and they gaskets are made of cork type paper, they
> won't work long. The Holley kits now have a reusable blue gasket for the
> metering block and float bowls. They don't stick to the carb like the old
> brown and black gaskets do. They are also much more resistant to any
> shrinking or swelling.
>
> Chris

 

Hi Chris,
Whatever this pretty blue stuff is, it works OK:
http://www.----------.com/holley.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

c wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> The check valve will not hinder performance. It is basically a little ball
> bearing that you put into the vacuum signal channel for the power valve. You
> first counterbore the hole with a drill bit that they supply in the kit.
> Then you set the baseplate on a flat surface and tap the bottom of the
> counterbore with a Phillips screwdriver and a hammer. The "X" pattern in the
> bottom of the counterbore will allow the vacuum signal to pass around the
> ball when the manifold vacuum is trying to pull the ball down. In the event
> of a backfire, the ball will push up against the gasket and small hole in
> the main body of the carb and seal the power valve from the backfire
> pressure. Also another note, the new generation of power valves are made
> with a different diaphragm material which is more resistant to backfires.
> The check valve kit works, and in fact, all new Holley carbs have this
> implemented into them, and have for 3 or 4 years.
>
> A note on the gaskets, if you use non-Holley gaskets, you're asking for
> trouble. If you buy a kit and they gaskets are made of cork type paper, they
> won't work long. The Holley kits now have a reusable blue gasket for the
> metering block and float bowls. They don't stick to the carb like the old
> brown and black gaskets do. They are also much more resistant to any
> shrinking or swelling.
>
> Chris

 

Yup, those are the new non stick gaskets I was mentioning.

Here is the power valve saver kit that they now sell:
http://tinyurl.com/sgy5

Holley has a kit as well.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/125-500.html

Like I said earlier, you can do this yourself with a little ball bearing
(1/4" IIRC), a drill bit 1/32" bigger than the ball, and a Phillips
screwdriver and hammer.

If you follow the vacuum port signal from the well behind the power valve in
the main body, it will eventually come out the bottom of the main body and
pass through the throttle base plate.. Drill the hole in the baseplate deep
enough to let the ball sit below the gasket surface of the baseplate. It
only needs to be about 1/16" below the surface. Then take a Phillips
screwdriver that fits in the hole and give it a good tap with a hammer to
make 4 grooves in the face left by the point of the drill. This will allow
the vacuum signal to operate the power valve properly. If the carb
backfires, the ball will seat up against the main body of the carb and
prevent the pressure from getting to the diaphragm. I have a carb here that
needs to have this done, so in the near future I will try to put together a
website showing the procedure. It id real easy to do. Even the kit is a deal
at about $10 because a replacement power valve is usually $6-8 in the
stores, and then you have the hassles of changing the damn thing.

Chris




"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F9C6E66.56F024DF@***.net...
> Hi Chris,
> Whatever this pretty blue stuff is, it works OK:
> http://www.----------.com/holley.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > The check valve will not hinder performance. It is basically a little
ball
> > bearing that you put into the vacuum signal channel for the power valve.
You
> > first counterbore the hole with a drill bit that they supply in the kit.
> > Then you set the baseplate on a flat surface and tap the bottom of the
> > counterbore with a Phillips screwdriver and a hammer. The "X" pattern in
the
> > bottom of the counterbore will allow the vacuum signal to pass around
the
> > ball when the manifold vacuum is trying to pull the ball down. In the
event
> > of a backfire, the ball will push up against the gasket and small hole
in
> > the main body of the carb and seal the power valve from the backfire
> > pressure. Also another note, the new generation of power valves are made
> > with a different diaphragm material which is more resistant to
backfires.
> > The check valve kit works, and in fact, all new Holley carbs have this
> > implemented into them, and have for 3 or 4 years.
> >
> > A note on the gaskets, if you use non-Holley gaskets, you're asking for
> > trouble. If you buy a kit and they gaskets are made of cork type paper,
they
> > won't work long. The Holley kits now have a reusable blue gasket for the
> > metering block and float bowls. They don't stick to the carb like the
old
> > brown and black gaskets do. They are also much more resistant to any
> > shrinking or swelling.
> >
> > Chris

 

Yup, those are the new non stick gaskets I was mentioning.

Here is the power valve saver kit that they now sell:
http://tinyurl.com/sgy5

Holley has a kit as well.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/125-500.html

Like I said earlier, you can do this yourself with a little ball bearing
(1/4" IIRC), a drill bit 1/32" bigger than the ball, and a Phillips
screwdriver and hammer.

If you follow the vacuum port signal from the well behind the power valve in
the main body, it will eventually come out the bottom of the main body and
pass through the throttle base plate.. Drill the hole in the baseplate deep
enough to let the ball sit below the gasket surface of the baseplate. It
only needs to be about 1/16" below the surface. Then take a Phillips
screwdriver that fits in the hole and give it a good tap with a hammer to
make 4 grooves in the face left by the point of the drill. This will allow
the vacuum signal to operate the power valve properly. If the carb
backfires, the ball will seat up against the main body of the carb and
prevent the pressure from getting to the diaphragm. I have a carb here that
needs to have this done, so in the near future I will try to put together a
website showing the procedure. It id real easy to do. Even the kit is a deal
at about $10 because a replacement power valve is usually $6-8 in the
stores, and then you have the hassles of changing the damn thing.

Chris




"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F9C6E66.56F024DF@***.net...
> Hi Chris,
> Whatever this pretty blue stuff is, it works OK:
> http://www.----------.com/holley.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > The check valve will not hinder performance. It is basically a little
ball
> > bearing that you put into the vacuum signal channel for the power valve.
You
> > first counterbore the hole with a drill bit that they supply in the kit.
> > Then you set the baseplate on a flat surface and tap the bottom of the
> > counterbore with a Phillips screwdriver and a hammer. The "X" pattern in
the
> > bottom of the counterbore will allow the vacuum signal to pass around
the
> > ball when the manifold vacuum is trying to pull the ball down. In the
event
> > of a backfire, the ball will push up against the gasket and small hole
in
> > the main body of the carb and seal the power valve from the backfire
> > pressure. Also another note, the new generation of power valves are made
> > with a different diaphragm material which is more resistant to
backfires.
> > The check valve kit works, and in fact, all new Holley carbs have this
> > implemented into them, and have for 3 or 4 years.
> >
> > A note on the gaskets, if you use non-Holley gaskets, you're asking for
> > trouble. If you buy a kit and they gaskets are made of cork type paper,
they
> > won't work long. The Holley kits now have a reusable blue gasket for the
> > metering block and float bowls. They don't stick to the carb like the
old
> > brown and black gaskets do. They are also much more resistant to any
> > shrinking or swelling.
> >
> > Chris

 

Yup, those are the new non stick gaskets I was mentioning.

Here is the power valve saver kit that they now sell:
http://tinyurl.com/sgy5

Holley has a kit as well.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/125-500.html

Like I said earlier, you can do this yourself with a little ball bearing
(1/4" IIRC), a drill bit 1/32" bigger than the ball, and a Phillips
screwdriver and hammer.

If you follow the vacuum port signal from the well behind the power valve in
the main body, it will eventually come out the bottom of the main body and
pass through the throttle base plate.. Drill the hole in the baseplate deep
enough to let the ball sit below the gasket surface of the baseplate. It
only needs to be about 1/16" below the surface. Then take a Phillips
screwdriver that fits in the hole and give it a good tap with a hammer to
make 4 grooves in the face left by the point of the drill. This will allow
the vacuum signal to operate the power valve properly. If the carb
backfires, the ball will seat up against the main body of the carb and
prevent the pressure from getting to the diaphragm. I have a carb here that
needs to have this done, so in the near future I will try to put together a
website showing the procedure. It id real easy to do. Even the kit is a deal
at about $10 because a replacement power valve is usually $6-8 in the
stores, and then you have the hassles of changing the damn thing.

Chris




"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F9C6E66.56F024DF@***.net...
> Hi Chris,
> Whatever this pretty blue stuff is, it works OK:
> http://www.----------.com/holley.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > The check valve will not hinder performance. It is basically a little
ball
> > bearing that you put into the vacuum signal channel for the power valve.
You
> > first counterbore the hole with a drill bit that they supply in the kit.
> > Then you set the baseplate on a flat surface and tap the bottom of the
> > counterbore with a Phillips screwdriver and a hammer. The "X" pattern in
the
> > bottom of the counterbore will allow the vacuum signal to pass around
the
> > ball when the manifold vacuum is trying to pull the ball down. In the
event
> > of a backfire, the ball will push up against the gasket and small hole
in
> > the main body of the carb and seal the power valve from the backfire
> > pressure. Also another note, the new generation of power valves are made
> > with a different diaphragm material which is more resistant to
backfires.
> > The check valve kit works, and in fact, all new Holley carbs have this
> > implemented into them, and have for 3 or 4 years.
> >
> > A note on the gaskets, if you use non-Holley gaskets, you're asking for
> > trouble. If you buy a kit and they gaskets are made of cork type paper,
they
> > won't work long. The Holley kits now have a reusable blue gasket for the
> > metering block and float bowls. They don't stick to the carb like the
old
> > brown and black gaskets do. They are also much more resistant to any
> > shrinking or swelling.
> >
> > Chris

 

Thanks Chris, bookmarked.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

c wrote:
>
> Yup, those are the new non stick gaskets I was mentioning.
>
> Here is the power valve saver kit that they now sell:
> http://tinyurl.com/sgy5
>
> Holley has a kit as well.
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/125-500.html
>
> Like I said earlier, you can do this yourself with a little ball bearing
> (1/4" IIRC), a drill bit 1/32" bigger than the ball, and a Phillips
> screwdriver and hammer.
>
> If you follow the vacuum port signal from the well behind the power valve in
> the main body, it will eventually come out the bottom of the main body and
> pass through the throttle base plate.. Drill the hole in the baseplate deep
> enough to let the ball sit below the gasket surface of the baseplate. It
> only needs to be about 1/16" below the surface. Then take a Phillips
> screwdriver that fits in the hole and give it a good tap with a hammer to
> make 4 grooves in the face left by the point of the drill. This will allow
> the vacuum signal to operate the power valve properly. If the carb
> backfires, the ball will seat up against the main body of the carb and
> prevent the pressure from getting to the diaphragm. I have a carb here that
> needs to have this done, so in the near future I will try to put together a
> website showing the procedure. It id real easy to do. Even the kit is a deal
> at about $10 because a replacement power valve is usually $6-8 in the
> stores, and then you have the hassles of changing the damn thing.
>
> Chris

 

Thanks Chris, bookmarked.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

c wrote:
>
> Yup, those are the new non stick gaskets I was mentioning.
>
> Here is the power valve saver kit that they now sell:
> http://tinyurl.com/sgy5
>
> Holley has a kit as well.
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/125-500.html
>
> Like I said earlier, you can do this yourself with a little ball bearing
> (1/4" IIRC), a drill bit 1/32" bigger than the ball, and a Phillips
> screwdriver and hammer.
>
> If you follow the vacuum port signal from the well behind the power valve in
> the main body, it will eventually come out the bottom of the main body and
> pass through the throttle base plate.. Drill the hole in the baseplate deep
> enough to let the ball sit below the gasket surface of the baseplate. It
> only needs to be about 1/16" below the surface. Then take a Phillips
> screwdriver that fits in the hole and give it a good tap with a hammer to
> make 4 grooves in the face left by the point of the drill. This will allow
> the vacuum signal to operate the power valve properly. If the carb
> backfires, the ball will seat up against the main body of the carb and
> prevent the pressure from getting to the diaphragm. I have a carb here that
> needs to have this done, so in the near future I will try to put together a
> website showing the procedure. It id real easy to do. Even the kit is a deal
> at about $10 because a replacement power valve is usually $6-8 in the
> stores, and then you have the hassles of changing the damn thing.
>
> Chris

 

Thanks Chris, bookmarked.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

c wrote:
>
> Yup, those are the new non stick gaskets I was mentioning.
>
> Here is the power valve saver kit that they now sell:
> http://tinyurl.com/sgy5
>
> Holley has a kit as well.
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/125-500.html
>
> Like I said earlier, you can do this yourself with a little ball bearing
> (1/4" IIRC), a drill bit 1/32" bigger than the ball, and a Phillips
> screwdriver and hammer.
>
> If you follow the vacuum port signal from the well behind the power valve in
> the main body, it will eventually come out the bottom of the main body and
> pass through the throttle base plate.. Drill the hole in the baseplate deep
> enough to let the ball sit below the gasket surface of the baseplate. It
> only needs to be about 1/16" below the surface. Then take a Phillips
> screwdriver that fits in the hole and give it a good tap with a hammer to
> make 4 grooves in the face left by the point of the drill. This will allow
> the vacuum signal to operate the power valve properly. If the carb
> backfires, the ball will seat up against the main body of the carb and
> prevent the pressure from getting to the diaphragm. I have a carb here that
> needs to have this done, so in the near future I will try to put together a
> website showing the procedure. It id real easy to do. Even the kit is a deal
> at about $10 because a replacement power valve is usually $6-8 in the
> stores, and then you have the hassles of changing the damn thing.
>
> Chris