Dual battery how-to
09-09-2003, 08:50 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual battery how-to <<<---- READ THIS NOW
look at www.wranglernw.com
Its not hard to install....I managed it with minimal supervision. I didnt use their
tray (got Kilby's) or their batteries (got R & Y Optima's), but I did get their
isolator and wiring. I didnt bother with the battery manager - too much fuss (and
$).
On Tue, 09 Sep 2003 21:54:42 GMT, "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>>DougW wrote:
>>> Joshua Nelson wrote:
>>>> Does anyone have a link (*ahem*, Bill) to some instructions on how to
>>>> wire up a dual battery system?
>>>>
>>>> I bought a dual battery tray and simply ran + to + and - to - in
>>>> sequence, but due to experiencing some subsequent problems with this
>>>> set up I think I may have done this incorrectly.
>>>
>>> WHOA! Very bad idea!
>>> Disconnect one of those batteries before you blow one of them up.
>>>
>>> Batteries charge and discharge at different rates. Unless the two
>>> batteries are exacly the same you will cause all sorts of problems.
>>> Up to and including having one short out.
>>>
>>>
>>>> I don't know a whole lot about electronics so if it has to get way
>>>> complicated with all kinds of extra fuses and relays and what not, I
>>>> may give up. But I've already got the second battery and tray so
>>>> there's some investment there already which I may as well continue
>>>> with.
>>>
>>> All you need is a battery isolator. Commonly available at RV stores
>>> and truck stops, etc. Instructions are on the isolator.
>>
>>Sorry for the extra subject padding but I feel it's important.
>>
>>Here are a few links to help you understand how to install the isolator.
>>
>>http://www.hellroaring.com/rv.htm
>>http://www.mphtower.com/am/lc/lc_dualbatt.htm
>>http://community.webshots.com/album/27192645FNPRXoZxZc
>>
>>I'm sure there are more than a few newsgroupers out there with dual
>>setups that can help you further...
>>
>>-- DougW
>>
Its not hard to install....I managed it with minimal supervision. I didnt use their
tray (got Kilby's) or their batteries (got R & Y Optima's), but I did get their
isolator and wiring. I didnt bother with the battery manager - too much fuss (and
$).
On Tue, 09 Sep 2003 21:54:42 GMT, "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>>DougW wrote:
>>> Joshua Nelson wrote:
>>>> Does anyone have a link (*ahem*, Bill) to some instructions on how to
>>>> wire up a dual battery system?
>>>>
>>>> I bought a dual battery tray and simply ran + to + and - to - in
>>>> sequence, but due to experiencing some subsequent problems with this
>>>> set up I think I may have done this incorrectly.
>>>
>>> WHOA! Very bad idea!
>>> Disconnect one of those batteries before you blow one of them up.
>>>
>>> Batteries charge and discharge at different rates. Unless the two
>>> batteries are exacly the same you will cause all sorts of problems.
>>> Up to and including having one short out.
>>>
>>>
>>>> I don't know a whole lot about electronics so if it has to get way
>>>> complicated with all kinds of extra fuses and relays and what not, I
>>>> may give up. But I've already got the second battery and tray so
>>>> there's some investment there already which I may as well continue
>>>> with.
>>>
>>> All you need is a battery isolator. Commonly available at RV stores
>>> and truck stops, etc. Instructions are on the isolator.
>>
>>Sorry for the extra subject padding but I feel it's important.
>>
>>Here are a few links to help you understand how to install the isolator.
>>
>>http://www.hellroaring.com/rv.htm
>>http://www.mphtower.com/am/lc/lc_dualbatt.htm
>>http://community.webshots.com/album/27192645FNPRXoZxZc
>>
>>I'm sure there are more than a few newsgroupers out there with dual
>>setups that can help you further...
>>
>>-- DougW
>>
09-10-2003, 08:54 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual battery how-to
Uh... *ahem*, is it me or is this getting uncomfortably familiar?
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309091340.4014a34f@posting.google.c om...
> Does anyone have a link (*ahem*, Bill) to some instructions on how to
> wire up a dual battery system?
>
> I bought a dual battery tray and simply ran + to + and - to - in
> sequence, but due to experiencing some subsequent problems with this
> set up I think I may have done this incorrectly.
>
> I don't know a whole lot about electronics so if it has to get way
> complicated with all kinds of extra fuses and relays and what not, I
> may give up. But I've already got the second battery and tray so
> there's some investment there already which I may as well continue
> with.
>
> I considered simply leaving the batteries un-linked and running the
> winch and accessories to one battery while the ignition, alternator,
> etc. ran to the other, but this leaves the obvious problem of how do I
> recharge the battery that is not hooked up to the motor?
>
> (And yes I know there is an obvious taunt to be made about how a 4500
> lb winch doesn't draw much current anyway. Please just pretend we're
> talking about a 12,500 lb winch ere.)
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309091340.4014a34f@posting.google.c om...
> Does anyone have a link (*ahem*, Bill) to some instructions on how to
> wire up a dual battery system?
>
> I bought a dual battery tray and simply ran + to + and - to - in
> sequence, but due to experiencing some subsequent problems with this
> set up I think I may have done this incorrectly.
>
> I don't know a whole lot about electronics so if it has to get way
> complicated with all kinds of extra fuses and relays and what not, I
> may give up. But I've already got the second battery and tray so
> there's some investment there already which I may as well continue
> with.
>
> I considered simply leaving the batteries un-linked and running the
> winch and accessories to one battery while the ignition, alternator,
> etc. ran to the other, but this leaves the obvious problem of how do I
> recharge the battery that is not hooked up to the motor?
>
> (And yes I know there is an obvious taunt to be made about how a 4500
> lb winch doesn't draw much current anyway. Please just pretend we're
> talking about a 12,500 lb winch ere.)
09-10-2003, 08:54 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual battery how-to
Uh... *ahem*, is it me or is this getting uncomfortably familiar?
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309091340.4014a34f@posting.google.c om...
> Does anyone have a link (*ahem*, Bill) to some instructions on how to
> wire up a dual battery system?
>
> I bought a dual battery tray and simply ran + to + and - to - in
> sequence, but due to experiencing some subsequent problems with this
> set up I think I may have done this incorrectly.
>
> I don't know a whole lot about electronics so if it has to get way
> complicated with all kinds of extra fuses and relays and what not, I
> may give up. But I've already got the second battery and tray so
> there's some investment there already which I may as well continue
> with.
>
> I considered simply leaving the batteries un-linked and running the
> winch and accessories to one battery while the ignition, alternator,
> etc. ran to the other, but this leaves the obvious problem of how do I
> recharge the battery that is not hooked up to the motor?
>
> (And yes I know there is an obvious taunt to be made about how a 4500
> lb winch doesn't draw much current anyway. Please just pretend we're
> talking about a 12,500 lb winch ere.)
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309091340.4014a34f@posting.google.c om...
> Does anyone have a link (*ahem*, Bill) to some instructions on how to
> wire up a dual battery system?
>
> I bought a dual battery tray and simply ran + to + and - to - in
> sequence, but due to experiencing some subsequent problems with this
> set up I think I may have done this incorrectly.
>
> I don't know a whole lot about electronics so if it has to get way
> complicated with all kinds of extra fuses and relays and what not, I
> may give up. But I've already got the second battery and tray so
> there's some investment there already which I may as well continue
> with.
>
> I considered simply leaving the batteries un-linked and running the
> winch and accessories to one battery while the ignition, alternator,
> etc. ran to the other, but this leaves the obvious problem of how do I
> recharge the battery that is not hooked up to the motor?
>
> (And yes I know there is an obvious taunt to be made about how a 4500
> lb winch doesn't draw much current anyway. Please just pretend we're
> talking about a 12,500 lb winch ere.)
09-10-2003, 11:45 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual battery how-to
> Here you go:
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> KH
>
Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
useful in learning about all this stuff!
It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
isolated it doesn't matter.
Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> KH
>
Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
useful in learning about all this stuff!
It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
isolated it doesn't matter.
Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
09-10-2003, 11:45 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual battery how-to
> Here you go:
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> KH
>
Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
useful in learning about all this stuff!
It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
isolated it doesn't matter.
Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> KH
>
Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
useful in learning about all this stuff!
It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
isolated it doesn't matter.
Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
09-10-2003, 12:08 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual battery how-to
Joshua Nelson wrote:
>
> > Here you go:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > KH
> >
>
> Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
> useful in learning about all this stuff!
>
> It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
> the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
> isolated it doesn't matter.
>
> Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
> around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
> would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
> but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
> higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
>
> This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
> an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
> ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
> just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
> needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
> But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
> rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
> all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
> vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
Cars don't 'really' have a 12 volt system, it is closer to 14-15 volts
when the alternator is in play and can spike up higher on occasion.
The volts are just the speed of the electricity, the amps are the power
part.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> > Here you go:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > KH
> >
>
> Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
> useful in learning about all this stuff!
>
> It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
> the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
> isolated it doesn't matter.
>
> Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
> around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
> would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
> but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
> higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
>
> This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
> an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
> ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
> just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
> needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
> But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
> rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
> all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
> vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
Cars don't 'really' have a 12 volt system, it is closer to 14-15 volts
when the alternator is in play and can spike up higher on occasion.
The volts are just the speed of the electricity, the amps are the power
part.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
09-10-2003, 12:08 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual battery how-to
Joshua Nelson wrote:
>
> > Here you go:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > KH
> >
>
> Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
> useful in learning about all this stuff!
>
> It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
> the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
> isolated it doesn't matter.
>
> Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
> around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
> would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
> but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
> higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
>
> This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
> an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
> ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
> just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
> needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
> But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
> rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
> all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
> vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
Cars don't 'really' have a 12 volt system, it is closer to 14-15 volts
when the alternator is in play and can spike up higher on occasion.
The volts are just the speed of the electricity, the amps are the power
part.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> > Here you go:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > KH
> >
>
> Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
> useful in learning about all this stuff!
>
> It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
> the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
> isolated it doesn't matter.
>
> Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
> around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
> would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
> but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
> higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
>
> This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
> an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
> ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
> just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
> needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
> But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
> rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
> all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
> vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
Cars don't 'really' have a 12 volt system, it is closer to 14-15 volts
when the alternator is in play and can spike up higher on occasion.
The volts are just the speed of the electricity, the amps are the power
part.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
09-10-2003, 12:15 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual battery how-to
The voltage rating on a fuse has more to do with how much voltage it can
stop if it blows. If you put a 32v fuse in a 120v circuit, the power might
jump the fuse when it blew, thus preventing the fuse from opening the
circuit effectively. You should use a fuse with at least 2-3 times the
voltage rating as your operating voltage. A 32v fuse is entirely
appropriate for a 12v circuit.
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309100745.2458225a@posting.google.c om...
> > Here you go:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > KH
> >
>
> Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
> useful in learning about all this stuff!
>
> It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
> the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
> isolated it doesn't matter.
>
> Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
> around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
> would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
> but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
> higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
>
> This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
> an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
> ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
> just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
> needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
> But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
> rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
> all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
> vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
stop if it blows. If you put a 32v fuse in a 120v circuit, the power might
jump the fuse when it blew, thus preventing the fuse from opening the
circuit effectively. You should use a fuse with at least 2-3 times the
voltage rating as your operating voltage. A 32v fuse is entirely
appropriate for a 12v circuit.
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309100745.2458225a@posting.google.c om...
> > Here you go:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > KH
> >
>
> Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
> useful in learning about all this stuff!
>
> It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
> the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
> isolated it doesn't matter.
>
> Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
> around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
> would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
> but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
> higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
>
> This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
> an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
> ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
> just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
> needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
> But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
> rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
> all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
> vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
09-10-2003, 12:15 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual battery how-to
The voltage rating on a fuse has more to do with how much voltage it can
stop if it blows. If you put a 32v fuse in a 120v circuit, the power might
jump the fuse when it blew, thus preventing the fuse from opening the
circuit effectively. You should use a fuse with at least 2-3 times the
voltage rating as your operating voltage. A 32v fuse is entirely
appropriate for a 12v circuit.
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309100745.2458225a@posting.google.c om...
> > Here you go:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > KH
> >
>
> Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
> useful in learning about all this stuff!
>
> It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
> the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
> isolated it doesn't matter.
>
> Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
> around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
> would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
> but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
> higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
>
> This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
> an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
> ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
> just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
> needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
> But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
> rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
> all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
> vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
stop if it blows. If you put a 32v fuse in a 120v circuit, the power might
jump the fuse when it blew, thus preventing the fuse from opening the
circuit effectively. You should use a fuse with at least 2-3 times the
voltage rating as your operating voltage. A 32v fuse is entirely
appropriate for a 12v circuit.
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309100745.2458225a@posting.google.c om...
> > Here you go:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > KH
> >
>
> Cool. Thanks for all the advice. This jeep forum has been really
> useful in learning about all this stuff!
>
> It looks pretty simple in the diagram. I notice that you still run
> the - to - between the two batteries but I guess as long as the + is
> isolated it doesn't matter.
>
> Any suggestions on what voltage/amperage isolator to get? I poked
> around on the web and there are TONS of different power ratings. I
> would have thought that everything on a vehicle would need to be 12v,
> but I didn't even see any 12v isolators... most everything was much
> higher voltage. As for amps, I have *no* idea what to look for.
>
> This reminds me of something else I was wondering about. I installed
> an in-line fuse between my battery and my aftermarket stereo because I
> ran the power wire for the stereo straight from the battery myself and
> just figured I might oughta protect the stereo. Anyway, I knew I
> needed a 15amp fuse because that's waht the stereo instructions said.
> But when I went to radio shack to buy a fuse, all the "automotive"
> rated fuses of every amperage were 32v. Again, it seems to me they
> all should have been 12 volt. Why would 32v fuses be standard on
> vehicles when virtually 100% of cars have 12v power?
09-10-2003, 04:16 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual battery how-to
> Uh... *ahem*, is it me or is this getting uncomfortably familiar?
>
Yes I did ask a little about this last month but we never really got
deep into the technical aspects of topic. Now I actually have the
second battery and am starting to make progress on the install so I
needed some more info.
>
Yes I did ask a little about this last month but we never really got
deep into the technical aspects of topic. Now I actually have the
second battery and am starting to make progress on the install so I
needed some more info.
